What to Sow in February: The Exact Seeds to Start Indoors and Direct Sow by Growing Zone
February’s the month most gardeners miss the onion and celery start window — here’s the exact last-frost countdown by zone so you don’t.
By mid-February, your seed-starting calendar is already running late for a handful of critical crops. Most gardeners think of spring as the season for planting, but the window that matters most for onions, leeks, celery, and artichokes opens in February — regardless of whether snow is still on the ground.
Miss it, and those crops simply won’t have enough indoor time to mature before your transplant date arrives. Start them now, and you’ll have robust seedlings that hit the garden at exactly the right moment.
February is also the month when warm-zone gardeners (Zone 7 and above) start moving seeds back outdoors — peas into soil that barely touches 40°F, spinach into beds that may still see frost, and in Zone 9, tomatoes directly into the ground.
This guide organizes February sowing around a single framework: your last frost date, counted backward. By the end, you’ll know which crops must start this month, which to save for March, and what zones 7–10 can direct sow right now.
How to Calculate Your February Sowing Window
Most seed packets say “start indoors 6–8 weeks before last frost.” That’s useful — but only if you know your last frost date and can translate it backward to a calendar date. In February, that translation is the whole ballgame.
Your USDA hardiness zone is a starting point, not a precise answer. Two gardens in Zone 6 can have last frost dates three weeks apart depending on elevation and proximity to large bodies of water. Your most reliable source is your local Cooperative Extension office — search “[your county] last frost date” for localized data from NOAA Climate Normals. See our complete seed-starting timeline for the full month-by-month crop calendar once you have your date.
Here’s how February maps onto the seed-starting calendar by zone:
| USDA Zone | Average Last Frost | February = Weeks Before Last Frost |
|---|---|---|
| Zone 3 | May 15 – June 1 | 11–17 weeks |
| Zone 4 | May 1–15 | 9–14 weeks |
| Zone 5 | April 15–30 | 7–12 weeks |
| Zone 6 | April 1–15 | 5–10 weeks |
| Zone 7 | March 15–30 | 3–6 weeks |
| Zone 8 | Feb 15 – March 15 | 0–4 weeks |
| Zone 9 | Feb 1–15 | At or past last frost |
| Zone 10 | No reliable frost | Full outdoor season |
Once you have your date, the math is straightforward. If your last frost is May 1 (Zone 4), then 12 weeks back lands on February 5 — the correct window to start onions and leeks. If your last frost is April 15 (Zone 5), 10 weeks back is February 4. Zones 3–6 have the most February indoor starting activity; zones 7–10 shift more effort toward direct sowing.
Crops That Must Start in February: The Long-Lead Candidates
These crops share one characteristic: they grow slowly enough that February isn’t just advisable — it’s the minimum viable starting window for northern and mid-Atlantic gardeners.
Onions and Leeks (10–12 Weeks Before Last Frost)
Onion and leek seeds started indoors in early February will be barely large enough to transplant by mid-April — and that’s exactly right. The growing season in most northern regions is too short for seed-sown bulbs to size up from an outdoor direct sow, which is why transplants are standard practice.
Start seeds in shallow trays at 75–85°F, about 2–4 seeds per cell, covered with 1/8 inch of vermiculite. Germination takes 7–10 days. Once seedlings reach 5 inches tall, trim them back to 2 inches — this promotes thicker stem development and prevents the floppy growth that develops when seedlings are left untrimmed. Continue trimming as they regrow until transplant time.
If you miss this window: Onion sets (small dormant bulbs sold at garden centers) are the reliable fallback. Variety selection is more limited than growing from seed, but results are consistent.
Celery and Celeriac (Start Around February 1)
Celery earns its reputation for difficulty mainly because of one overlooked preparation step: the seeds contain natural germination inhibitors that must be leached out before sowing. Soak seeds in water for 24 hours, changing the water once, before planting. This step significantly shortens germination time. Find full growing details in our celery growing guide.
Even after soaking, celery is slow: 9–21 days to emerge. It needs 10–12 weeks indoors before transplanting in April or early May. According to the Utah State University Extension, celery germinates best at 85°F during the day with a drop to 70°F at night, and prefers diffuse rather than direct-intensity light during the germination phase. After emergence, keep temperatures at 55–65°F — celery is a cool-weather crop that bolts in heat.
If you miss this window: Nursery-grown celery transplants are widely available in spring. For celeriac, a mid-February start is still viable through zones 5–6, but full-sized celery stalks may not be achievable if you start in late February.
Artichokes (8–10 Weeks Before Last Frost + Vernalization)
Artichokes are perennials grown as annuals in most of the US, and they require a specific cold treatment to produce edible heads in their first year: vernalization. After about 6 weeks of indoor growth, the seedlings must experience 10 days of temperatures below 50°F but above freezing before being transplanted outdoors. Without this cold stress, the plant stays vegetative — no flower buds form, no harvest results.
The timing for a May 1 last frost date: start seeds in mid-to-late February, move seedlings to a cold frame or sheltered outdoor spot around April 1 for 10 days of cold exposure, then transplant after frost danger passes. The ‘Imperial Star’ variety was bred for annual production and needs less vernalization time than older cultivars.
If you miss this window: Artichoke crowns and bare-root plants are available from nurseries in spring — these skip the seed-starting entirely and are a practical alternative in zones 8–10.
Geraniums / Pelargoniums (14–15 Weeks Before Last Frost)
Seed-grown pelargoniums are slower than vegetatively propagated ones and need the longest indoor period of any common bedding plant: 14–15 weeks before your last frost date. For zone 5 (last frost April 30), that means starting in mid-January to early February. For zone 4 (last frost May 10), early February is ideal. Germinate at 70–75°F; expect 7–14 days to emergence. See our indoor geranium cultivation guide for ongoing care.
Pansies and Violas (8–10 Weeks Before Last Frost)
Pansies are among the most frost-tolerant flowering plants you’ll grow from seed — established plants survive temperatures down to 25–28°F, making them ideal for extending the garden season. Starting in mid-to-late February gives zone 4–6 gardeners transplant-ready plants by mid-April, before the last frost date. They’ll bloom while snow is still possible.
According to Iowa State Extension, pansies and violas are cool-season annuals that germinate in 6–8 weeks under good conditions. Germinate in darkness at 65–75°F; expect 10–14 days. For more flowers to start alongside pansies, our guide to growing flowers from seed indoors covers snapdragons, lobelia, stock, and more.
Lavender, Rosemary, and Thyme (Start February for Size)
Lavender can take 14–21 days to germinate and months to reach a robust transplant size — starting in February gives you plants with enough root mass to establish well when moved outdoors in May. Rosemary and thyme are similarly slow. One practical caveat: the University of Illinois Extension notes that rosemary and thyme started from seed may not come true to flavor type, and recommends propagating these herbs by cuttings or division for culinary consistency. If you need specific named cultivars, source them as starts. For seed-starting lavender, our lavender growing guide covers both seed and vegetative propagation in detail.
Late-February Starts (Last Two Weeks of February)
Brassicas for Zones 5–7 (8 Weeks Before Last Frost)
Broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower for spring planting need 8 weeks indoors before transplanting. For zone 5–6 gardeners targeting a late April or early May transplant date, the last two weeks of February is the correct window. Starting too early produces leggy, oversized brassica seedlings that struggle at transplant time.
Cauliflower is less forgiving of root disturbance than broccoli at transplant time. Use individual cells rather than open flats, and handle the root ball gently to avoid disturbing the developing root system.
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→ View My Garden CalendarSuper-Hot Peppers (Capsicum chinense and C. baccatum)
Standard bell and sweet peppers (Capsicum annuum) need 8 weeks indoors and are typically started in mid-March for zones 5–6. Capsicum chinense — ghost peppers, habaneros, reapers, scorpions — operates on a different schedule entirely. This species can take 4–6 weeks just to germinate at 80°F+, and requires 10–14 weeks total indoor time before it’s ready to transplant. According to UMD Extension, C. chinense and C. baccatum belong in the February seed-starting queue; C. annuum does not.
Keep the heat mat running for the full germination period — these seeds are particularly sensitive to temperature drops. Use fresh seed wherever possible; viability declines faster in C. chinense than in most vegetables.
Parsley and Lobelia
Parsley is a biennial grown as an annual that takes 14–21 days to germinate even under ideal conditions, and benefits from a 10–12 week indoor head start. A brief soak before sowing can help. Don’t abandon the tray before 3 weeks are up — late germination is normal.
Lobelia needs about 12 weeks before last frost and requires light to germinate: press seeds onto the soil surface without covering. These are extremely fine seeds, best placed with a moistened toothpick for precision. According to Iowa State Extension, lobelia is a half-hardy annual that can go outdoors approximately 2 weeks before the frost-free date.
What NOT to Start in February (Zones 3–6)
Tomatoes need only 5–7 weeks from seed to transplant-ready size. Starting them in February for a May last frost date produces plants that will be root-bound, 18–24 inches tall, and beginning to flower before they can go outside. These leggy plants transplant poorly — they’ve been stretching toward inadequate indoor light and their stems lack the structural strength of shorter, stockier plants. The University of Maryland Extension is explicit on this point: do not start tomatoes in February. For zones 5–6, late March or early April is the correct window. For zone 4, aim for early to mid-April.
The same reasoning applies across several popular crops:
- Sweet peppers (C. annuum): 8 weeks before last frost — start mid-March for zones 5–6
- Cucumbers, summer squash, winter squash: 3–4 weeks indoors only — start late April or early May for most zones
- Beans and corn: Direct sow after last frost; both transplant poorly from indoor starts
- Basil: Only 4–6 weeks indoors needed — starting in February means fragile seedlings sitting under lights for months waiting for warm nights
“Start later rather than earlier” is sound default advice for most warm-season crops. The crops in the previous two sections are the genuine exceptions — for those, February is the minimum viable window, not the ambitious early start. Our article on common seed-starting mistakes covers the over-starting problem in detail.
Direct Sowing in February: What Zones 7–10 Can Put in the Ground
Soil temperature matters more than the calendar date here. A cold February soil won’t reliably germinate anything regardless of zone designation. A soil thermometer — probe 2–3 inches deep for accurate readings — is a worthwhile tool for gardeners in zones 7 and above.
Zone 7 (Last Frost March 15–30)
February soil temperatures in Zone 7 typically hover around 38–45°F — too cold for warm-season crops, but ideal for cool-season specialists. Peas (Pisum sativum) actually germinate well in soil at 40–50°F; the cool temperature slows emergence slightly but produces stockier, more disease-resistant seedlings. UC Master Gardener germination data shows peas germinate at temperatures as low as 40°F with an optimum around 65°F. Sow peas as soon as soil is workable.
Other February-ready direct-sow crops for Zone 7: spinach (germinates at soil temperatures as low as 35°F), mâche/corn salad, arugula, radishes, and loose-leaf lettuce. These grow slowly in February but accelerate dramatically as March days lengthen.
Zone 8 (Last Frost Feb 15 – March 15)
By late February, many Zone 8 gardens are approaching or past their average last frost date. The list expands: carrots, beets, Swiss chard, onion sets, and turnips can all be direct sown. Beet germination improves once soil temperature climbs above 50°F. Zone 8 gardeners are also starting tomatoes and sweet peppers indoors in February — their 8-week indoor window aligns with an April transplant date.
Zones 9–10 (At or Past Last Frost)
Zone 9 gardens can plant tomatoes, basil, beans, and cucumbers from seed outdoors in late February. Zone 10 gardeners are in full warm-season planting mode and should focus on succession plantings of cool-season crops — spinach, lettuce, and peas won’t survive summer heat in Zone 10, so harvest them while the weather holds or they’ll bolt. February is actually the last reliable window for cool-season direct sowing in the warmest zones.
February Sowing: Zone-by-Zone Reference
| Zone | Avg Last Frost | Indoor Starts (February) | Direct Sow Outdoors | February Priority |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 3 | Late May–June 1 | Onions, leeks, geraniums, pansies | None yet | Onions, leeks |
| Zone 4 | May 1–15 | Onions, leeks, celery, artichokes, geraniums | None yet | Onions, leeks, celery |
| Zone 5 | April 15–30 | Onions, leeks, celery, artichokes, pansies, perennial herbs | Hardy greens under cover | Celery, artichoke, onions |
| Zone 6 | April 1–15 | Celery, brassicas (late Feb), super-hot peppers (late Feb) | Spinach, mâche under cover | Brassicas, celery |
| Zone 7 | March 15–30 | Tomatoes, sweet peppers, brassicas | Peas, spinach, mâche, arugula, radishes | Peas outdoors |
| Zone 8 | Feb 15 – March 15 | Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant | Peas, carrots, beets, chard, onion sets | Tomatoes indoors, peas outdoors |
| Zone 9 | Feb 1–15 | Most warm-season crops | Tomatoes, beans, cucumbers (late Feb) | Direct sowing season begins |
| Zone 10 | No frost | Warm-season crops | Full outdoor season | Cool-season succession now |
Setting Up for Success: Light, Heat, and Preventing Damping-Off
Light
February gives most of the US only 10–11 hours of natural daylight — well short of the 12–16 hours seedlings need for strong, compact growth. Seedlings grown in a window alone will be leggy and weak, with thin stems that break under outdoor conditions. The UMN Extension recommends positioning grow lights as close as 2 inches above seedling tops, running them 12–16 hours daily on a timer. T-5 fluorescent fixtures or LED grow lights both work well. Adjust light height upward as seedlings grow — bulbs that brush the canopy damage young tissue.
Heat
Soil temperature drives germination speed, not air temperature. The difference is dramatic: according to UC Master Gardener data, tomato seeds take 42 days to germinate at 50°F soil but only 6 days at 77–86°F. For February crops like celery, onions, and artichokes, a seedling heat mat shortens the waiting period significantly.
The University of Maine Cooperative Extension recommends removing the heat mat as soon as 50% of seeds in a tray have germinated — this frees the mat for your next batch and prevents drying out the already-germinated cells. Keep ambient air temperature between 60–70°F for most seedlings after the mat is removed.
Preventing Damping-Off
Damping-off is the sudden collapse of seedlings at the soil line — visible as a pinched, water-soaked stem that topples overnight. The culprits are soil fungi: Pythium attacks below the soil line at root tips; Rhizoctonia and Fusarium collapse the stem at soil level. According to NC State Extension, cool, wet, poorly ventilated conditions favor these pathogens, and once disease appears in a tray, affected seedlings cannot be saved.
Four practices prevent it reliably:
- Use sterile soilless seed-starting mix (peat + perlite + vermiculite) — never garden soil, which carries resident fungal spore populations.
- Ensure drainage — standing water at the base of cells promotes Pythium growth.
- Run a small fan on low near seed trays to maintain air movement and dry the soil surface between waterings.
- Water from below when possible, keeping the soil surface drier between watering cycles.
Overwatering is the single most common cause of damping-off in home seed-starting setups. After germination, let the top of the mix dry slightly before the next watering. A dry period of a few hours is fine; a dry period of days kills seedlings. Finding that middle ground is the core skill of indoor seed starting.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is it too early to start seeds indoors?
For most crops, too early means more than 10–12 weeks before your last frost date. Tomatoes, peppers, and brassicas started beyond 8–9 weeks early become root-bound and leggy before outdoor conditions allow transplanting. The exceptions are the crops in the first section — onions, leeks, celery, and artichokes — which genuinely need 10–12 weeks.
Can I start tomato seeds in February?
Only if your last frost date is before mid-April — approximately Zone 7 or warmer. Zone 5–6 gardeners who start tomatoes in February will have oversized, root-bound plants by transplant time. Wait until late March for zones 5–6, or early to mid-April for Zone 4.
I missed the February window for onions — what now?
Onion sets or transplant bundles from a nursery are the reliable fallback — they’re already 8–10 weeks old at sale, with variety selection narrower than seed but results consistent. Bunching onions (scallions) mature faster and can be started later. Alternatively, wait for next February and start onions from seed — one season’s patience pays off in variety choice.
Do I need a heat mat for cool-season crops like spinach or lettuce?
No. Cool-season crops germinate at 50–65°F soil temperature and don’t benefit from bottom heat. In fact, lettuce germination is suppressed above 75°F — a heat mat can actually work against you. Reserve heat mats for warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) and specifically slow germinators like celery.
What’s the difference between long-day and short-day onions?
Long-day onions (suited to zones 3–6, north of roughly 36° latitude) require 14–16 hours of daylight to trigger bulbing. Short-day onions (zones 7–10) bulb at 10–12 hours of daylight. Growing the wrong type produces disappointing results: a long-day variety grown in the South may bolt early or form small bulbs; a short-day variety in zone 4 may produce scallion-sized results before bulbing at all. Your seed packet should specify the type — check this before ordering, not after the seeds arrive.
Sources
- What Can You Start from Seed in February? — University of Maryland Extension / Maryland Grows
- Starting Seeds Indoors — University of Minnesota Extension
- Seed Germination Temperature and Timing — UC Master Gardener Program / UC ANR
- Starting Seeds at Home (Bulletin #2751) — University of Maine Cooperative Extension
- Getting Started: Growing Onions and Leeks from Seed — High Mowing Organic Seeds
- A Guide to Starting Seeds: Artichokes and Acclimation — High Mowing Organic Seeds
- Growing Cool-Season Annuals — Iowa State Extension
- Damping-Off in Flower and Vegetable Seedlings — NC State Extension
- How to Grow Celery in Your Garden — Utah State University Extension
