How to Grow Lilies: Plant Big Bulbs 4 to 6 Inches Deep, Leave the Stem Standing After Bloom, and Keep Them From Cats

Plant lily bulbs in early fall or spring, in full sun and well-drained soil, with 4 to 6 inches of soil over a large bulb. Stake anything taller than about 5 feet, feed in spring, snap off spent flowers but leave the green stem, and keep every true lily and daylily away from cats.

This guide covers true lilies, the genus Lilium: plants that grow from a bulb made of fleshy, overlapping scales with no protective covering, as University of Minnesota Extension describes them. Daylilies, calla lilies, canna lilies and peace lilies only borrow the name. Clemson Extension says peace lilies are “not true lilies but a member of the Araceae family,” NC State Extension files the calla lily genus in that same arum family, NC State places canna in the Cannaceae, and daylilies are Hemerocallis. None of them follows the growing rules below, though the cat warning is the exception: daylilies are just as dangerous to cats. Our daylily vs lily comparison sorts out the mix-up.

Three decisions shape everything that follows: how deep the bulb goes, what you do with the stem after the flowers fade, and whether a cat will ever be near the plant. Extension sources disagree by a few inches on the first, and the reasons for the disagreement are worth knowing before you dig.

Which lily should you plant? Choose by bloom month

Lilies flower in waves, so choose by bloom month first and color second. As a rule of thumb in the northern half of the country, Asiatics open from June into July, trumpets in July and August and Orientals from July into September, with Orienpets bridging the gap. Minnesota’s extension service puts the whole lily season at mid-June through mid-September, with Asiatic cultivars opening in June or July and Orientals from July into September. Dates slide with region: the North American Lily Society (NALS) gives American hybrids late June to early July, but late May to mid-June south of Philadelphia.

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The biggest takeaway from this table: plant by bloom month, not by color, to get a long show, and remember that Orientals won’t tolerate alkaline soil (NC State). Heights, scent and bloom windows come from NC State, WSU Extension and Iowa State.

All nine official divisions, with bloom time and zone for each, are in our guide to the 9 lily divisions, so we don’t repeat them here. Two types have their own pages: the Oriental lily planting guide covers depth and soil pH, and the tiger lily guide covers the species that clones itself, since each leaf axil produces a bulbil that drops and grows into a new plant, and NC State says the resulting plants are likely genetically identical clones.

How deep do you plant lily bulbs, and when?

Cover a large bulb with 4 to 6 inches of soil and a small one with 3 to 4 inches, according to NALS’s planting guide. Minnesota Extension gives 4 to 6 inches for large bulbs and 2 to 4 for small ones, measured from the top of the bulb. Plant in early fall if you can, because Iowa State calls early fall an excellent time, or as soon as the ground is workable in spring.

Depth matters because most garden lilies root twice. Roots grow from the base of the bulb, and more roots grow from the stem above it. WSU’s master gardeners say a lily’s feeder roots “are found along the stem between the soil surface and the bulb,” so a bulb set too shallow has little buried stem to root along. University of Missouri Extension notes that other garden lilies develop stem roots, which is exactly why the Madonna lily, which does not, is the exception covered below. The Royal Horticultural Society plants stem-rooting lilies about 2.5 times the bulb’s height deep, and basal-rooting lilies, or any bulb of unknown type, at about the bulb’s height. Colorado State gives a single rule for lilies: three times the height of the bulb.

The numbers in print still look like a disagreement, and part of it is how each source measures. Iowa State says three times the bulb’s diameter, “typically about 6-8 inches deep.” Illinois Extension gives 6 to 8 inches for Asiatics, South Dakota State gives about 6 inches “to give the lilies more Winter protection,” and Wisconsin Extension says about 6 inches for large bulbs. Minnesota and NALS count 4 to 6 inches of soil over a large bulb’s top. Counting from the top gives smaller numbers than counting to the base, which is probably part of the spread. Use these working rules:

• Large bulb: 4 to 6 inches of soil over the top (NALS, Minnesota).
• Small bulb: 3 to 4 inches over the top (NALS); Minnesota says 2 to 4.
• No label, no idea: three times the bulb’s height (Colorado State); the RHS would go shallower, at about the bulb’s height.
• Light, sandy soil: slightly deeper than usual (RHS).
• Nursery pot: plant a container-grown lily at the depth it sat in the pot (Iowa State).
• Unsure and nervous: WSU’s master gardeners say to err shallow, because lily bulbs are “contractile” and seek their own depth if planted too high.

Fall versus spring planting, drainage prep and the Madonna exception are worked through in how deep to plant lily bulbs.

Plant in groups of three to five, 8 to 12 inches apart, with groups 3 to 5 feet apart (Minnesota); NALS wants 12 inches or more between small bulbs and 18 inches or more between large ones. Water after planting so the soil settles against the roots (NALS).

How much sun and what kind of soil do lilies need?

Give lilies at least six hours of direct sun, eight for the best Asiatic and Oriental bloom, and soil that never stays wet. Iowa State defines full sun for lilies as “at least six hours of direct sun each day,” and Minnesota says Asiatics and Orientals need a minimum of 8 hours there to bloom well. NALS says most lilies prefer full sun but tolerate partial shade, martagons tolerate the most shade, and Orientals benefit from some shade in hot climates.

Drainage matters more than either. NALS puts it bluntly: “Lilies must have good drainage!” and suggests a slope or raised bed as an easier fix than major soil work. Iowa State recommends slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 7.0) high in organic matter, with raised beds where drainage is poor, and NC State says lily bulbs rot in poorly drained soil. A lily bulb has no protective covering over its scales, and Minnesota adds that bulbs are never completely dormant and must not dry out before planting. Wet soil and dry storage are both threats.

Soil pH splits by type. NC State says Oriental lilies won’t tolerate alkaline soil, while Missouri Extension says the Madonna lily prefers soil from neutral to slightly alkaline. Lilies also like cool roots and moisture, “not soggy, just damp” (WSU), and NALS notes that mulch keeps the soil cool and holds moisture. That is the logic behind pairing a lily’s sunny leaves with ground-hugging neighbors, which our lily companion plants guide works through.

Which USDA zones can grow lilies?

NC State lists Asiatics for USDA zones 4 to 8 and Oriental hybrids for zones 3 to 9. Cultivars vary, so treat the zone on the bulb label as the tie-breaker.

In plain terms: Asiatics and Orientals are the dependable choices across zones 4 to 8, while Easter lilies are the ones to treat as borderline. For Orienpets and other crosses, use the zone printed on the label. Heat is the other limit: NALS says martagons do poorly in hot, humid climates, so in hot, humid regions choose a different type.

Do lilies need staking?

Height decides, not type. WSU’s master gardeners say you can probably skip stakes on lilies 3 feet or shorter, grow the 4- to 5-footers up through open-branching shrubs, and stake or trellis anything taller than 5 feet. Illinois Extension notes that some lilies exceed 5 feet and require staking, while Minnesota Extension says Asiatics “do not need to be staked” and Wisconsin says ‘Stargazer’ has strong stems and “rarely” needs support. Those statements are about different cultivars at different heights.

Light matters too. WSU adds that tall lilies “don’t break so much as bend down,” especially in a shady spot where they reach for the sun, and that lilies take two or three years to reach full height, so a lily that stood unaided in year one can need a stake in year three. Set a stake at planting so you don’t spear the bulb later, as the RHS advises. NALS suggests a small marker stake first, swapped for a taller one as the stalk nears budding, with loose ties.

How do you water and feed lilies?

Keep lily soil evenly damp, never soggy, and feed in spring when the shoots show (potted lilies more often). For a schedule in the ground and in pots, see how often to water lilies. Two watering habits matter more than the amount: water at the base, because Iowa State says botrytis develops in wet, humid conditions and advises less overhead watering, and keep watering potted lilies until the stems die back (RHS).

For fertilizer, the extension advice is similar on timing and differs on product. NALS says to scratch in a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 once the shoots are up, keep it away from the bulbs and water it in. Minnesota and WSU suggest a phosphorus-rich 5-10-10, and WSU adds compost in fall. Iowa State says one application of slow-release fertilizer is typically enough and to stop about six weeks after blooming ends. Because the feeder roots run along the buried stem, add compost and fertilizer gently to the zone along the stem between the soil surface and the bulb, where those roots are (WSU).

Pots are different. The RHS recommends a deep container with drainage holes, three bulbs in a 35 cm (14-inch) pot, and a high-potassium liquid feed about every two weeks, stopped as the leaves yellow. Minnesota warns that freestanding containers may see temperature extremes that are too severe.

After the flowers fade: deadhead, then leave the stem

Snap off the faded flowers and leave every green stem and leaf standing. Iowa State says “green stems and leaves will continue to feed the bulb until fall,” and Minnesota Extension says plainly: “Do not remove foliage.” The leaves are the plant’s food factory for next year’s flower, so cutting the stem down in July risks next summer’s bloom for the sake of a tidier border.

Deadheading itself is worthwhile. WSU says removing spent flowers keeps energy from going into seed, and the RHS says to cut the stem just below the faded flowers. Stop feeding about six weeks after bloom ends (Iowa State). Cut the stalks to the ground once they have turned yellow or brown: WSU does it in fall or winter, Minnesota in early spring.

The common mistake is applying daylily rules to lilies. A daylily’s flower stalk is bare and gets cut to the base, while a lily’s stem carries the leaves; our guide to pruning lilies after bloom compares the two side by side.

How do you overwinter lilies in the ground?

Established lilies need no winter protection where snow cover is dependable, Minnesota Extension says; elsewhere, mulch after the soil freezes. New fall plantings are different: Minnesota suggests 4 to 6 inches of loose compost, leaves or wood chips, and Iowa State suggests several inches of straw or pine needles for the first winter. NALS adds that mice nibble tender lily bulbs and advises waiting until the mice have left before spreading mulch.

Spring is where lilies get hurt. Leave the mulch on until the danger of hard frost has passed (Minnesota), then rake it back before the shoots grow long, because they are fragile (NALS). NALS warns: “If a shoot is broken off, it means no bloom for the season for that lily.” On frosty nights cover emerging shoots with newspaper, cardboard boxes or baskets.

When a clump crowds and flowering drops off, dig it in early fall, separate the bulbs and replant at once, large bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep (Iowa State) and small ones by the small-bulb rule above. Large bulbs may bloom the next summer; small ones take one to two years. Scaling and bulbil methods are in our guide to dividing and scaling lily bulbs.

The lily year at a glance

One cycle, start to finish: plant in early fall with a marker stake, feed and uncover the shoots in spring, swap in a taller stake before the buds open, bloom from June to late summer depending on type, deadhead and leave the stem, then cut down yellow stalks and mulch new plantings or snow-poor sites.

What should you look for when buying lily bulbs?

Choose firm, plump bulbs with roots still attached, and plant them soon: Minnesota says lily bulbs are never completely dormant and must not dry out before planting, and WSU says not to leave them lingering in a garage. Spring-delivered bulbs are fine to plant: NALS says that with newly perfected storage methods, bulbs may be carried through the winter in excellent condition. Check each label for height and bloom month (WSU), and buy from a reliable source: WSU notes that mosaic virus can be a problem and that reliable sources minimize the risk.

Madonna lily: the one you plant shallow

The Madonna lily (Lilium candidum) goes in with no more than 1 inch of soil over the bulb, unlike the other lilies in this guide. Missouri Extension says it must not be planted too deeply because it does not develop stem roots, and NALS gives the same 1-inch limit. Plant it in August or early September: it forms a rosette of leaves in fall that stays green through winter, and the flower spike, 24 to 60 inches tall, appears the following late spring. It needs at least six hours of direct sun and excellent drainage, and Missouri also flags botrytis as a risk.

How do you spot and control the red lily leaf beetle?

The red lily leaf beetle is a serious lily pest: bright red and shiny, 0.25 to 0.375 inch long, with a black head, legs and antennae (Pacific Northwest Insect Management Handbook). The larvae do the damage. Wisconsin Extension says severe infestations “can completely defoliate plants,” and Iowa State says adults are around from May through September.

The Pacific Northwest handbook gives the life cycle: adults overwinter in ground litter and emerge in warm weather (late March in Bellevue, Washington), eggs are laid in small clusters on the leaf and turn from bright orange to reddish-brown, larvae feed for roughly 3 to 4 weeks, drop to the soil to pupate, and a new generation of adults emerges 2 to 3 weeks later. The New York Botanical Garden notes that larvae cover themselves with a wet, slimy layer of excrement that partly shields them from insecticide, so a dark, wet-looking lump on a leaf is the sign to look for.

Our lily diseases guide has pictures of botrytis, basal rot and mosaic virus.

For the beetle itself, start with hands. The NYBG recommends picking larvae and adults into soapy water, with a light-colored cloth under the plant to catch beetles that drop when disturbed, and the Pacific Northwest handbook says the best time is when larvae are small. Neem oil works on adults and small larvae; NYBG says to check the label for azadirachtin and reapply every 5 to 7 days with thorough coverage. The handbook says to resort to pesticides only when “several lily plants of high value” are suffering severe early damage, and to minimize planting lilies in contiguous plantings.

Choice of lily helps. Asiatic hybrids are the most susceptible, while Oriental types and the lilies ‘Madame Butterfly’, ‘Uchida’ and ‘Black Beauty’ are reported resistant (Pacific Northwest handbook; NYBG’s tests identified the same three as most resistant). Biological control is real but regional. The University of Rhode Island released three parasitic wasp species across Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut and New York, reports that they are established and spreading, and reports a decline in beetle damage in parts of New England. NYBG’s 2021 answer said the wasps were not commercially available, so at that point a home gardener couldn’t buy them.

Are lilies poisonous to cats?

Yes: every true lily is dangerous to cats, and so are daylilies. The FDA says lilies in the Lilium and Hemerocallis genera are highly toxic to cats, naming Asiatic, daylily, Easter, Japanese show, Oriental, rubrum, ‘Stargazer’, tiger and wood lilies. “The entire lily plant is toxic: the stem, leaves, flowers, pollen, and even the water in a vase.” The ASPCA says a small exposure can cause acute kidney injury, and cats that lick pollen off their faces can be poisoned. The toxin hasn’t been identified, and it affects cats only: dogs that eat lilies may have minor stomach upset but don’t develop kidney failure (FDA; ASPCA’s plant list).

Time is the whole story. The FDA puts early signs (decreased activity, drooling, vomiting, loss of appetite) at 0 to 12 hours, kidney damage signs at 12 to 24 hours, and kidney failure within 24 to 72 hours. It says that if treatment is delayed by 18 hours or more, the cat will generally have irreversible kidney failure. If a cat may have touched a lily, call a veterinarian or poison control immediately: the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center is 888-426-4435, and the FDA lists Pet Poison Helpline at 855-764-7661. Bring the plant or a photo to the clinic.

The garden decision is simple. The FDA advises not planting highly toxic lilies where cats go outdoors, including your neighbors’ cats. Calla, peace and Peruvian lilies cause mouth irritation or stomach upset rather than kidney failure, while lily-of-the-valley and gloriosa lily bring other serious problems (FDA). For the full list of which look-alikes are safe and which are not, see our guide to which lilies are toxic to cats.

Lily growing FAQ

When do lilies bloom?

Most true lilies bloom between mid-June and mid-September in the northern US: Asiatics first, in June or July, then trumpets and Orienpets through midsummer (Orienpets June to August in WSU’s garden), and Orientals from July into September (Minnesota Extension; WSU). Dates shift with region: NALS gives American hybrids a window that starts weeks earlier south of Philadelphia.

How many years until lilies reach full size?

Two or three, according to WSU’s master gardeners.

Can you grow lilies in pots?

Yes, in a deep container with drainage holes (RHS). Minnesota Extension warns that freestanding containers may see temperature extremes that are too severe.

Should you cut lilies back after they bloom?

Only the faded flowers. Leave the green stem and leaves until they yellow, because they keep feeding the bulb until fall (Iowa State, Minnesota), then cut the stalks to the ground.

Is it safe to grow lilies if you have a cat?

Not where the cat can reach them. The FDA says lilies in the Lilium and Hemerocallis genera are highly toxic to cats and advises against planting them where cats, including a neighbor’s, can reach them.

Sources

1. North American Lily Society. Planting Lilies. lilies.org
2. North American Lily Society. Care of Lilies. lilies.org
3. North American Lily Society. Types of Lilies. lilies.org
4. Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. Growing Lilies in Iowa (Steil and Haynes, reviewed June 2026). Yard and Garden
5. Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. When is the best time to plant lilies? (updated March 2024). Yard and Garden
6. Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. When would be a good time to dig and divide lilies? (updated June 2025). Yard and Garden
7. Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. Types and Divisions of Garden Lilies (Haynes, reviewed June 2026). Yard and Garden
8. University of Minnesota Extension. Selecting Lilies for Your Garden, FS-1112-A (Hanchek and Bolla, reviewed 1996)
9. Washington State University Extension, Skagit County Master Gardeners. Lilies of the Skagit Valley (Dight, 15 June 2018)
10. University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension. ‘Stargazer’ Lily (Mahr, revised April 2026). Horticulture
11. University of Illinois Extension. Plant of the Week: Asiatic Lilies (Anderson, 13 June 2017). Hort in the Home Landscape
12. South Dakota State University Extension. Growing Lilies in the Home Garden (updated May 2025)
13. NC State Extension. Lilium (Asiatic hybrids). Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
14. NC State Extension. Lilium (Oriental hybrids). Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
15. NC State Extension. Lilium regale (Regal lily). Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
16. NC State Extension. Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily). Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
17. NC State Extension. Lilium lancifolium (Tiger lily). Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
18. University of Missouri Extension. Madonna Lily: Beauty through the Ages (Trinklein, 5 August 2020). Missouri Environment and Garden
19. Royal Horticultural Society. How to grow lilies. RHS Growing Guide
20. Oregon State University, Washington State University and University of Idaho Extension. Red lily leaf beetle (2012). Pacific Northwest Insect Management Handbook
21. New York Botanical Garden, Mertz Library. How can I control red lily beetle? (updated February 2021)
22. University of Rhode Island Biological Control Program. Lily leaf beetle
23. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Lovely Lilies and Curious Cats: A Dangerous Combination (content current as of 16 September 2021)
24. ASPCA. Getting to the Bottom of the Dangers of Easter Lilies (27 March 2019)
25. ASPCA. Toxic and Non-toxic Plants: Lily (Lilium species)
26. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Peace Lily, HGIC 1512. Home and Garden Information Center
27. NC State Extension. Canna x generalis (Canna Lily). Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
28. Colorado State University Extension. Spring-Planted Bulbs, Corms, and Roots, 7.411 (reviewed August 2025)
29. NC State Extension. Zantedeschia pentlandii (calla lily genus). Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox