Plant These 20 Flowers and Butterflies Will Find Your Garden Every Summer

A monarch butterfly flying over your yard doesn’t stop at random. It follows chemical signals — volatile compounds found exclusively in milkweed — to the one plant family its caterpillars can eat. Every butterfly species has this kind of precision: evolved relationships with specific plants that your garden either supports or doesn’t.

Most butterfly garden lists focus only on nectar plants — the flowers adult butterflies visit to feed. That’s useful, but it’s half the picture. A garden without host plants (caterpillar food) gets butterfly flyovers, not butterfly residents. The 20 flowers below cover both roles: 14 are nectar sources, 9 function as larval host plants, and 6 serve both purposes. Plant a mix from this list and you won’t just be attracting butterflies — you’ll be supporting every stage of their lifecycle. For a broader pollinator garden design including bees and native moths, see our full seasonal guide.

Host Plants vs. Nectar Plants: Why Your Garden Needs Both

Adult butterflies feed through a proboscis — a coiled, straw-like tongue they extend into flower tubes to sip nectar. Host plants serve an entirely different purpose: female butterflies lay eggs on them, and the hatching caterpillars eat the foliage. Most caterpillars are specialist feeders that can survive on only one plant family, sometimes one genus. A monarch caterpillar that lands on a zinnia will starve; it can only digest milkweed.

This is why a nectar-only garden produces flyovers but not residents. When you add host plants, female butterflies detect the chemical cues that trigger egg-laying, caterpillars have food, and you start seeing butterflies at every lifecycle stage. Consider pairing your butterfly plantings with a wildlife garden design — shelter, water, and host plants together create the complete habitat butterflies need to breed.

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The 20 Best Butterfly Garden Flowers

1. Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) — HOST + NECTAR

Key butterflies: Monarch, Queen, Gray Hairstreak | Zones: 3–9

The monarch butterfly cannot complete its lifecycle without milkweed — it’s the only plant family monarchs use for egg-laying, and caterpillars feed exclusively on the foliage. Swamp milkweed is the strongest garden choice: its soft leaves have lower trichome density than butterfly weed, making them more palatable to caterpillars, and it tolerates moist soils where drainage is imperfect. The fragrant pink flower clusters bloom June through August, drawing adult monarchs, swallowtails, and fritillaries for nectar simultaneously. Plant in full sun; monarch populations show 1–3 broods in the north and 4–6 in the south.

2. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) — HOST + NECTAR

Key butterflies: Monarch, Queen, Gray Hairstreak | Zones: 3–9

The 2017 Perennial Plant of the Year earns its place here for sheer nectar output — its vivid orange flower clusters draw monarchs, fritillaries, and skippers for weeks. As a monarch host plant, it plays a secondary role to swamp or common milkweed: its leaves carry a higher trichome density and lower cardenolide content, so caterpillars prefer other milkweed species when available. Cardenolides are the toxins monarchs sequester from milkweed as a predator defense — lower-cardenolide hosts produce less-protected adults. Still irreplaceable for drought-prone gardens (it forms a deep taproot, zones 3–9) and its nectar value. Unlike most milkweeds, its sap is clear rather than milky.

3. Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) — HOST

Key butterfly: Eastern Black Swallowtail | Zones: 4–9

Plant fennel and you’ve sent an open invitation to the black swallowtail. Female black swallowtails locate Apiaceae host plants via volatile chemicals in the foliage — fennel, dill, parsley, carrot tops, and Queen Anne’s lace all emit these cues. Fennel’s feathery foliage handles heavy caterpillar feeding well and regenerates quickly after defoliation. Eggs hatch in 3–9 days; caterpillars feed for 10–30 days before pupating. Bronze fennel (‘Purpureum’) doubles as an ornamental with its deep copper foliage. Grow in full sun and allow self-seeding for the highest caterpillar abundance season to season.

4. Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) — HOST

Key butterflies: Eastern Black Swallowtail, Giant Swallowtail (zones 7–11) | Zones: 2–11 (annual/biennial)

Parsley is the most accessible black swallowtail host plant — inexpensive, fast-growing, and resilient enough to support 2–3 caterpillars to maturity per plant. Plant clumps of 4–6 to guarantee a population. In zones 7+, let parsley overwinter as a biennial: second-year plants flower into umbrella-shaped clusters that become excellent nectar sources for adult butterflies. The Giant Swallowtail (Papilio cresphontes), primarily found zones 7–11, also uses parsley when citrus trees are unavailable. Leave spent plants standing through fall to allow late-season caterpillars to complete development.

5. Common Blue Violet (Viola sororia) — HOST

Key butterflies: Great Spangled Fritillary, Variegated Fritillary, Meadow Fritillary | Zones: 3–9

Every fritillary butterfly species in North America uses violets as its exclusive larval host. Female great spangled fritillaries scatter eggs near (but not on) violet clumps in late summer; the eggs overwinter, and caterpillars hatch in spring to feed on the young leaves. This means your violets don’t need to be pristine — a naturalized patch under a shrub or along a shaded border is ideal. The low-growing foliage handles caterpillar pressure without visible damage for most of the season. Violets spread by seed and rhizome and require essentially no management. Zones 3–9.

6. Hollyhock (Alcea rosea) — HOST + NECTAR

Key butterflies: Painted Lady, Checkered Skipper | Zones: 3–8

The painted lady butterfly has over 100 recorded host plants, but hollyhock is among the most garden-reliable choices. Female painted ladies prefer mallow family plants (Malvaceae) for egg-laying, and hollyhock’s large leaves support substantial caterpillar feeding. The tall flower spikes — open-faced blooms stacked up a 4–6 ft stem — are easy for butterflies to land on and probe for nectar. Grow in full sun with good air circulation to minimize hollyhock rust. Often short-lived as a perennial but reliably self-seeds; treat it as a biennial and let it renew itself. An excellent companion plant near vegetable borders where painted ladies are welcome.

7. Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) — NECTAR + HOST

Key butterflies: Eastern Tiger Swallowtail, Monarch, Painted Lady, Spicebush Swallowtail, Silvery Checkerspot (host) | Zones: 3–9

The central cone of a coneflower isn’t one flower — it’s composed of hundreds of individual disc florets, each producing nectar and pollen. This gives butterflies an extended feeding platform with multiple visits per bloom head. Tiger swallowtails, monarchs, and painted ladies are consistent visitors. Echinacea pallida also serves as a larval host for the silvery checkerspot butterfly. One critical caveat: avoid double-flowered cultivars like ‘Double Decker’ or ‘Butterfly Kisses.’ The double-flower mutation converts nectar-bearing disc florets into ornamental ray petals — the flower looks showier but loses most of its butterfly value. Stick with species-type or single-flowered cultivars: ‘Magnus,’ ‘Kim’s Knee High,’ or straight E. purpurea. Zones 3–9.

8. Verbena bonariensis (Purpletop Vervain) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Monarchs, Eastern Tiger Swallowtail, Giant Swallowtail, Fritillaries, Painted Lady, Red Admiral, Sulphurs | Zones: 7–11 (self-seeds to zone 4)

Few plants match Verbena bonariensis for sheer butterfly magnetism. Its small, tightly clustered purple flowers sit atop slender 3–5 ft stems and produce a steady nectar flow through summer and into fall — exactly when migrating monarchs need fuel. The open, airy habit means butterflies don’t fight through foliage to reach flowers. Black swallowtails specifically list it as a preferred nectar source. Technically a tender perennial (zones 7–11), it self-seeds prolifically enough to persist in zones 4 and above when left to drop seeds before frost. Full sun; well-drained soil; virtually zero maintenance once established.

9. Lantana (Lantana camara) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Painted Lady, Swallowtails, Sulphurs, Monarchs, Fritillaries | Zones: 8–11 (annual in colder zones)

Lantana’s multi-color flower clusters operate as a built-in butterfly guide. Within each cluster, yellow florets at the center are actively producing nectar; as florets age to orange and then red, they signal depletion and butterflies move inward toward fresh flowers. This zonal architecture makes lantana one of the most efficient nectar platforms available. Grow as an annual in zones 4–7; it performs strongly through summer heat and drought. Deadhead spent clusters to maintain flower production. Note: lantana berries are toxic to dogs and cats; in zones 9–11, the shrubby form can self-seed invasively — remove spent flowers in those regions.

10. Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Eastern Tiger Swallowtail, Spicebush Swallowtail, Monarchs, Silver-Spotted Skipper | Zones: 4–9

Joe-Pye weed’s flat-topped, dusty mauve flower clusters bloom July through September — covering the critical mid-to-late summer nectar gap between early perennials and fall asters. Tiger swallowtails and spicebush swallowtails show strong preference for it. The large flower heads provide a stable landing platform for bigger butterfly species. Unlike most nectar plants, Joe-Pye weed tolerates partial shade, making it ideal for rain garden edges or woodland borders. Native to the eastern US; deer resistant; self-seeds modestly. Compact cultivar ‘Baby Joe’ (24–30 in) suits smaller gardens without sacrificing butterfly appeal. Zones 4–9.

11. Blazing Star / Liatris (Liatris spicata) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Monarchs, Fritillaries, Swallowtails, Painted Lady | Zones: 3–9

Liatris has a flowering quirk worth knowing: its individual florets open from the top of the spike downward, the opposite of nearly every other spiked garden plant. This means butterflies always find fresh, open flowers at the spike tip as they work through a planting. The corm-based root system makes blazing star exceptionally drought-tolerant once established. Monarchs use Liatris spicata heavily in August–September as a pre-migration fuel stop; its dense, accessible nectar is critical at that stage. Full sun; zones 3–9; ‘Kobold’ is a reliable compact cultivar (18–24 in) for smaller beds.

12. Zinnia (Zinnia elegans) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Painted Lady, Monarchs, Sulphurs, Swallowtails, Skippers | Zones: 3–10 (annual)

Zinnia is the most effective annual for butterfly gardens, and painted lady research confirms it: Vanessa cardui records zinnia among its top nectar preferences. The flat, broad flower head gives even small skipper species a secure landing pad. One rule: choose single-flowered varieties, not pompom doubles. Double zinnias replace nectar-producing disc florets with ornamental petals — the same mechanism that makes double coneflowers less useful. ‘Benary’s Giant’ and ‘Magellan’ series perform well in summer heat. Direct-sow after last frost in full sun; deadhead to extend bloom from late June through frost.

13. New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) — NECTAR + HOST

Key butterflies: Pearl Crescent (host), Painted Crescent, American Lady, Red Admiral, Migrating Monarchs | Zones: 4–8

Asters are the defining late-season butterfly plant: they bloom August through October, when most other nectar sources have faded and migrating monarchs need substantial fueling. New England aster, with its 1–2 in purple-magenta flowers, is among the most butterfly-attractive species. It also functions as a larval host for pearl crescent and painted crescent butterflies — two small native species that deserve more garden real estate. Grow in full sun; tolerates moisture but also adapts to average conditions. Pinch plants in half in early June to reduce height and double branch count, which means double the flowers in September. Zones 4–8.

14. Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) — NECTAR + HOST

Key butterflies: Monarchs (migration), 115+ Lepidoptera species | Zones: 3–9

Goldenrod is unjustly maligned — hay fever is caused by ragweed, which blooms simultaneously but uses wind pollination. Goldenrod is insect-pollinated and, according to University of Delaware entomologist Doug Tallamy’s research, supports 115 butterfly and moth species in the Mid-Atlantic region alone. For monarch migration, it’s critical: in late August and September, monarchs heading to Mexico depend on goldenrod as a primary fuel source. In the garden, Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’ and S. ‘Little Lemon’ provide ornamental structure without aggressive spreading. Full sun; zones 3–9.

15. Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida) — NECTAR + HOST

Key butterflies: Silvery Checkerspot (host), Eastern Tiger Swallowtail, Skippers, Painted Lady | Zones: 3–9

Rudbeckia’s composite flower structure — a ring of ray florets surrounding a central disc cone of hundreds of tiny florets — delivers nectar efficiently to visiting butterflies. Penn State Extension documents 18 moth and butterfly species using Rudbeckia as a larval host in Pennsylvania, with the silvery checkerspot depending on it directly. Unlike the biennial R. hirta, R. fulgida ‘Goldsturm’ is a true perennial that returns reliably for 10+ years. Blooms July–September; zones 3–9; full sun to light shade. One of the most carefree perennials on this list and an excellent companion to coneflowers for extended mid-season nectar coverage.

16. Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Swallowtails, Painted Lady, Cabbage White, Clouded Sulphur | Zones: 5–8

Lavender draws disproportionate butterfly activity relative to its bloom volume. The short flower tubes of L. angustifolia fall within easy proboscis reach, and blue-violet sits in the color spectrum butterflies perceive most sharply — they see into UV wavelengths, and lavender flowers reflect UV light strongly. Plant in well-drained, slightly alkaline soil; lavender thrives in the dry, poor conditions that challenge most other nectar plants, making it ideal for borders, pathways, and rock gardens. ‘Hidcote’ (12–15 in) and ‘Munstead’ (18 in) are the most reliably hardy English lavender varieties for zones 5–8. See our complete lavender growing guide for zone-by-zone variety selection.

17. Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Eastern Tiger Swallowtail, Spicebush Swallowtail, Great Spangled Fritillary | Zones: 4–8

Garden phlox blooms July–September in shades of pink, purple, white, and red — peak butterfly season. Its clustered flower heads give butterflies the multi-floret feeding architecture they prefer, and the scent draws them in from a distance. Tiger swallowtails show a consistent preference for the pink and purple forms. Grow in full sun with good air circulation to prevent powdery mildew; mildew-resistant cultivars like ‘David’ (white) and ‘Jeana’ (lilac-pink, also exceptional for pollinators) reduce management time considerably. Divide clumps every 3–4 years to maintain vigor. Zones 4–8.

18. Bee Balm (Monarda didyma) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Eastern Tiger Swallowtail, Spicebush Swallowtail, Silver-Spotted Skipper | Zones: 4–9

Bee balm’s ragged, tubular florets are arranged in globe-shaped heads on 2–4 ft stems. The individual tubes are short enough for butterfly proboscises to access, and the vivid red-to-pink color registers clearly to butterfly vision. Spicebush swallowtails — which prefer dappled conditions where their host plants (spicebush, sassafras) grow — find bee balm in partly shaded gardens where other nectar plants won’t thrive. Select powdery mildew-resistant cultivars: ‘Jacob Cline’ (red, 3–4 ft) is the most widely available and reliable. Zones 4–9.

19. Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum virginianum) — NECTAR

Key butterflies: Swallowtails, Fritillaries, Hairstreaks, Skippers, Sulphurs — broadest spectrum of any plant on this list | Zones: 4–8

Mountain mint may be the most productive butterfly nectar plant per square foot of any North American native. The tightly packed clusters of tiny white-to-lavender flowers produce continuous nectar for weeks (June through August), and the minty fragrance from volatile compounds in the foliage attracts butterflies from a distance. In pollinator trials at the Southeast Agricultural Research and Extension Center, mountain mint ranked highest for diversity and volume of pollinator visits. It spreads by rhizome — moderately aggressive — so situate it where it can naturalize or edge it annually. Zones 4–8; full sun to light shade.

20. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) — NECTAR + HOST

Key butterflies: Painted Lady (host + nectar), American Lady, Swallowtails, Sulphurs | Zones: 3–9

Yarrow’s flat-topped flower clusters are a textbook butterfly landing platform — dozens of tiny individual florets packed into a broad, stable surface that accommodates multiple species simultaneously. The painted lady uses yarrow as one of its host plants, and the American lady lists it among primary nectar sources. Yarrow blooms June–September (reblooms heavily with deadheading), fills dry sunny spots that challenge most plants, and spreads modestly by rhizome. The common white species is native; named cultivars (‘Paprika,’ ‘Moonshine,’ ‘Cerise Queen’) add color. Deer resistant; zones 3–9.

How to Design Your Butterfly Garden

These five principles from university extension research translate the plant list into a functioning butterfly habitat:

Sun and shelter: Butterflies are cold-blooded and require warm body temperatures to fly. Position your planting in full sun (6+ hours daily) with a windbreak on the prevailing-wind side — a hedge, fence, or wall reduces cold air movement across the planting by 50–70%, keeping the microclimate warmer. Plant in masses rather than single specimens: butterflies navigate by color from a distance and detect groupings of 5+ plants more reliably than isolated specimens.

Build a season sequence: Aim for continuous bloom from May through October. Spring: violets, phlox. Early summer: coneflower, bee balm, milkweeds, verbena, mountain mint. Midsummer: zinnia, lantana, joe-pye weed, bee balm, liatris. Fall: asters, goldenrod, rudbeckia. The fall sequence is especially critical — migrating monarchs, painted ladies, and red admirals all depend on late-season nectar.

Add a puddling station: Male butterflies gather at moist patches to obtain minerals and salts. A shallow dish or tray filled with damp sand and a few flat stones works well; adding a small pinch of salt improves its attraction value. Position in a sunny, sheltered spot near the main planting.

Skip broad-spectrum pesticides: Even organic insecticides like Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) kill caterpillars. Spot-treat genuine pest problems with targeted products; avoid broadcasting anything over areas with butterfly host plants.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the difference between butterfly weed and swamp milkweed for monarchs?
Both are milkweed species, but swamp milkweed (A. incarnata) is the stronger monarch host plant. Its leaves have lower trichome density and higher cardenolide content, making them more palatable and nutritionally beneficial for monarch caterpillars. Butterfly weed (A. tuberosa) excels as a nectar source and handles drier conditions better, but plant swamp milkweed as your primary monarch host.

Why avoid double-flowered varieties?
The double-flower mutation — found in many ornamental coneflowers, zinnias, and marigolds — converts nectar-bearing disc florets into extra ray petals. The flower looks showier but produces far less nectar and often no accessible pollen. Butterflies visit, find little reward, and move on. Single-flowered and species-type varieties consistently outperform doubles for butterfly activity.

Should I plant butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii)?
Butterfly bush produces abundant nectar and adult butterflies do visit it. The problem is twofold: it’s invasive in many states (Pacific Northwest, parts of the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast), crowding out native plants that support caterpillars; and it provides zero host plant value — no native caterpillar eats it. Sterile cultivars exist but may face regulatory restrictions where the species is listed. Better alternatives with equivalent or superior adult nectar value: Joe-Pye weed, buttonbush, sweet pepperbush, mountain mint, and blazing star — all native, none invasive, and several serve as host plants too.

Which of these plants work in containers or small gardens?
Zinnia, parsley, Verbena bonariensis, bee balm (‘Leading Lady’ series, 10–12 in), ‘Kobold’ liatris (18 in), and ‘Kim’s Knee High’ coneflower all perform well in containers. For a small-space butterfly garden, combine swamp milkweed or butterfly weed in a large pot with a zinnia or verbena for nectar — you’ll cover both lifecycle needs in under 10 square feet.

Sources

1. Creating a Butterfly Garden — University of Minnesota Extension
2. Gardening for Butterflies — Penn State Extension
3. Butterflies in the Garden — Clemson HGIC
4. Asclepias tuberosa — NC State Extension Plant Toolbox
5. Butterfly Weed — Wisconsin Horticulture Extension
6. Black Swallowtail — Wisconsin Horticulture Extension
7. Nectar and Host Plants for Mid-Atlantic Butterflies — Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia
8. Butterfly Bush — University of Maryland Extension
9. Worth Their Weight in Gold (Goldenrods) — National Wildlife Federation
10. Help the Butterfly Lifecycle — Illinois Extension (UIUC)