Monstera vs Calathea: Light, Humidity and Watering Compared — Which Suits a UK or US Home Better
Monstera vs calathea: which tropical houseplant suits your home, experience level, and lifestyle? Compare light, water, humidity, soil, propagation, common problems, and toxicity side by side.
Monstera vs Calathea: Which Tropical Houseplant Is Right for You?
Monstera and calathea are two of the most popular tropical houseplants in cultivation. Both are visually striking, both thrive indoors with the right care, and both have earned passionate followings among plant enthusiasts worldwide. But they are very different plants with very different care requirements — and choosing the wrong one for your home, skill level, or lifestyle is a common source of frustration. This guide breaks down every key difference, from taxonomy and leaf types to soil, propagation, common problems, and toxicity, so you can make the right choice from day one.
Quick Comparison: Monstera vs Calathea
| Feature | Monstera | Calathea |
|---|---|---|
| Family | Araceae | Marantaceae |
| Light | Bright to medium indirect; tolerates lower light | Medium to low indirect; no direct sun |
| Watering | Allow to dry out between waterings; forgiving | Keep consistently moist; sensitive to minerals in tap water |
| Humidity | Moderate (40–60%); tolerates typical indoor levels | High (60–80%); suffers in dry air |
| Soil | Well-draining aroid mix; chunky and airy | Moisture-retentive but well-draining; peat or coco coir base |
| Propagation | Stem cuttings or air layering | Division only — no cuttings |
| Difficulty | Easy; excellent for beginners | Intermediate to advanced; demanding |
| Mature Size | Large; 6–10 ft indoors, leaves up to 3 ft wide | Compact; typically 1–3 ft tall |
| Toxicity | Toxic to cats and dogs | Non-toxic to cats and dogs |
| Growth Rate | Fast to moderate | Slow to moderate |
Monstera Overview
Monstera deliciosa, commonly called the Swiss cheese plant, is one of the most recognisable houseplants in the world. Its large, glossy, deep green leaves develop distinctive splits (called pinnations) and holes (called fenestrations) as the plant matures, giving it a dramatic, architectural quality that few other houseplants can match.
Native to the tropical rainforests of Central America, monstera is a climbing hemi-epiphyte. In its natural habitat it attaches to trees with aerial roots and can reach 60 feet or more. Indoors it is much more manageable, typically growing 6–10 feet tall when given a moss pole or support to climb.
What makes monstera so popular with beginners is its forgiving nature. It tolerates inconsistent watering, lower light levels than most tropical plants, and a range of humidity conditions. New leaves emerge regularly during the growing season and watching them unfurl is one of the great pleasures of keeping this plant. For a related comparison, see our guide to Monstera vs Philodendron.
Calathea Overview
Calathea (many species reclassified as Goeppertia within the Marantaceae family) is celebrated for its extraordinary leaf patterning. Depending on species or cultivar, calathea leaves may feature bold stripes, intricate feather patterns, dark borders, or vibrant undersides in deep burgundy or purple. Calathea ornata, with its fine pink pinstripes on deep green, is among the most striking.
Calathea is native to the tropical rainforest understory in South and Central America. It is accustomed to filtered light, high humidity, warm temperatures, and consistently moist soil. Replicating these conditions indoors is what makes calathea challenging. In the wrong environment, leaves curl, brown at the edges, or develop brown tips.
One delightful trait unique to calathea is nyctinasty: its leaves fold up at night and reopen in the morning, a behaviour that has earned it the nickname prayer plant (shared with its close relative Maranta). Despite its demanding reputation, calathea is deeply rewarding for growers willing to meet its needs.
Popular Varieties
Popular Monstera Varieties
The Monstera genus contains around 50 species, but a handful dominate the houseplant market:
- Monstera deliciosa — the classic Swiss cheese plant with large split and fenestrated leaves. Widely available and the easiest to grow. The standard choice for statement foliage.
- Monstera adansonii — Swiss cheese vine, with smaller, more oval leaves densely covered in holes. More trailing than climbing; excellent in hanging baskets or trained on a hoop.
- Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ — a variegated cultivar with cream-and-green marbled leaves. Slow-growing, expensive, and in high demand. Requires brighter light than standard deliciosa to maintain variegation.
- Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’ — another variegated form with striking white patches. Each leaf is unique. One of the most sought-after and expensive houseplants available.
- Monstera standleyana — a smaller species with oval, speckled leaves and no fenestrations. Often sold mislabelled; look for the elongated, unperforated leaves with creamy spots.
Popular Calathea Varieties
Calathea (Goeppertia) offers a much wider range of visual patterns than monstera, making it genuinely collector-worthy:
- Calathea ornata (Goeppertia ornata) — bold pink or white pinstripes on deep green; burgundy undersides. One of the most photographed calatheas and a reliable performer.
- Calathea medallion (Goeppertia veitchiana) — large, rounded leaves with a circular watercolour pattern in green, cream, and pink. One of the most commonly sold varieties.
- Calathea zebrina (Goeppertia zebrina) — vivid, alternating light and dark green horizontal stripes on large velvety leaves. Very striking but needs high humidity to avoid leaf damage.
- Calathea lancifolia (Goeppertia lancifolia) — the rattlesnake plant, with long narrow leaves spotted with dark green ovals and wavy edges. More tolerant than many calatheas.
- Calathea orbifolia (Goeppertia orbifolia) — large, almost perfectly round leaves with silvery-green striping. One of the largest calatheas and one of the most elegant.
- Calathea makoyana (Goeppertia makoyana) — the peacock plant or cathedral windows, with translucent oval patterning that glows in backlight. A true showpiece.
Light Requirements
Light is one area where monstera and calathea are actually similar: both prefer bright, indirect light and should not be placed in direct sun, which will scorch their leaves.
However, monstera is significantly more tolerant of lower light conditions. A monstera placed several feet from a window, or in a room with only moderate natural light, will slow its growth but remain healthy. Its leaves may produce fewer fenestrations in very low light, but the plant itself will not suffer badly.
Calathea needs medium to bright indirect light to maintain its vibrant leaf patterns. In very low light the patterning fades and growth stalls. At the same time, even a few hours of direct sun will burn the delicate leaves quickly. This narrow sweet spot makes placement more critical for calathea than for monstera. An east-facing windowsill or a spot 60–90 cm back from a south- or west-facing window works well for both.
Winner for adaptability: Monstera. It tolerates a wider range of light conditions without visible decline.
Watering and Humidity
This is where the two plants diverge most significantly, and where most calathea problems originate.
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Monstera watering: Allow the top 1–2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. Monstera has semi-succulent stems and can tolerate a degree of drought without ill effects. Overwatering is a bigger risk than underwatering. Water thoroughly, allow to drain completely, and do not water again until the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Monstera tolerates typical indoor humidity levels (40–50%) and rarely needs supplemental misting unless the air is exceptionally dry.
Calathea watering: Calathea needs consistently moist soil, but this is difficult to calibrate. The soil should never dry out completely, but it must also never sit in water. Calathea is also highly sensitive to the minerals, fluoride, and chlorine in tap water, which cause brown leaf tips and edges even when humidity is adequate. Most experienced calathea growers use filtered water, rainwater, or water left in an open container overnight. For more detail, see how often to water calathea.
Calathea humidity: Calathea requires high humidity, ideally 60–80%. In typical heated indoor environments (30–50% in winter), calathea suffers: leaves curl inward, edges brown, and growth stalls. A dedicated humidifier near your plant collection is the most reliable solution. Pebble trays and grouping plants together also help, but misting evaporates too quickly to make a meaningful difference.
Winner for ease: Monstera, by a wide margin. Calathea’s sensitivity to water quality and its high humidity requirements are the two most common reasons it struggles in typical homes.
Soil and Fertilizing
Soil
Monstera needs a well-draining, airy mix that mimics the organic debris it grows in naturally. A standard aroid mix works well: combine peat or coco coir, perlite, and a small amount of bark or orchid mix in roughly equal parts. The goal is a mix that holds some moisture but drains freely and never compacts into a waterlogged mass. Good drainage is non-negotiable — monstera roots rot quickly in waterlogged conditions. Repot every 1–2 years as the plant outgrows its container, ideally in spring.
Calathea needs a mix that retains slightly more moisture than a standard aroid blend, while still draining well enough to prevent sogginess. A peat- or coco coir-based potting mix with added perlite (around 20–30%) works well. Avoid heavy, clay-rich soils that compact over time and suffocate roots. Calathea is also sensitive to soil pH — aim for slightly acidic to neutral (6.0–7.0). Repot in spring every 1–2 years, or when roots begin circling the base of the pot.
Fertilizing
Both plants benefit from regular feeding during the growing season (spring and summer). A balanced liquid fertiliser at half the recommended strength, applied every 2–4 weeks, is suitable for both. Do not fertilise in autumn or winter when growth slows — accumulated salts in the soil can damage calathea’s sensitive roots. Flush the soil every few months by watering thoroughly until water runs freely from the drainage holes, which removes built-up mineral deposits that cause leaf tip browning in calathea.
Propagation
Propagating Monstera
Monstera is relatively easy to propagate and gives you two reliable methods. Stem cuttings are the most straightforward: take a cutting with at least one node (the knobby joint where a leaf attaches to the stem) and ideally one or two aerial roots. Remove any leaves that would be submerged, then place in water, sphagnum moss, or lightly moist potting mix. In water, roots typically appear within 3–6 weeks. Once roots are 3–5 cm long, transfer to soil and keep consistently moist while the cutting establishes.
Air layering is slower but produces a larger, more established plant. Wrap a node in moist sphagnum moss, secure with plastic film, and wait 4–8 weeks for roots to develop inside the moss ball. Once a substantial root system is visible through the plastic, cut below the root mass and pot directly into compost. This method is particularly useful for propagating large, heavily established monstera plants where taking a cutting would leave an awkward gap in the foliage.
Propagating Calathea
Calathea can only be propagated by division — splitting an established clump into sections, each with its own roots. This must be done at repotting time, ideally in spring. Remove the plant from its pot, gently shake away excess soil, and use a clean sharp knife to divide the root mass into sections with at least 2–3 leaves and a healthy root system each. Pot each division into fresh, lightly moist compost and keep in a warm, humid location while it establishes. Expect some wilting for the first week or two as the plant adjusts — this is normal and not a sign of failure.
Calathea cannot be propagated from stem or leaf cuttings. Unlike monstera, placing a stem in water will not produce roots — it simply has no capacity for that type of vegetative reproduction. This makes each established calathea more valuable and limits how quickly you can build a collection.
Winner for propagation: Monstera — two reliable methods versus calathea’s division-only approach.
Common Problems
Monstera Problems
- Yellow leaves — the most common complaint. Usually caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Allow the soil to dry out more between waterings and check that the pot has adequate drainage holes. A single yellowing lower leaf is often just natural ageing. For a full diagnostic, see why monstera leaves turn yellow.
- Brown leaf tips or edges — usually underwatering, low humidity, or fertiliser salt build-up. Check watering frequency and flush the soil periodically.
- Leaves with no holes (no fenestrations) — juvenile leaves start whole, but if a mature plant still produces unperforated leaves, it typically needs more light or a larger pot. See how to encourage monstera fenestrations for step-by-step guidance.
- Drooping leaves — most often underwatering or root problems. Check the soil moisture level first; if the soil is wet and the plant is still drooping, investigate for root rot.
- Brown patches on leaves — direct sunlight, cold draughts, or a sudden temperature drop. Move the plant to a more sheltered position away from cold windows.
Calathea Problems
- Brown leaf edges and tips — the most common calathea complaint, and almost always caused by low humidity, fluoride or chlorine in tap water, or cold draughts. Switch to filtered or rainwater, increase humidity, and check for cold air sources. Once brown, the edges will not turn green again — trim neatly with sharp scissors at a slight angle to minimise the visual impact.
- Leaves curling inward — the plant is conserving moisture, which indicates low humidity or underwatering. Water thoroughly and address humidity. If curling persists after watering, check whether the plant is severely root-bound.
- Yellowing leaves — usually overwatering or poor drainage. Check that roots are not sitting in soggy compost and that the pot drains freely. A yellowing lower leaf on an otherwise healthy plant is often simply natural ageing.
- Faded leaf patterns — the distinctive markings wash out or become dull, usually because of too much direct light bleaching the pigments. Move the plant further from the light source or behind a sheer curtain.
- Leaves not moving (prayer movement stopped) — nyctinasty halts under stress. Check light levels, humidity, and root health. The movement usually resumes once conditions improve.
- Spider mites — calathea is particularly susceptible in dry indoor air. Look for fine webbing on leaf undersides and a stippled, bronze appearance to the leaves. Treat with dilute neem oil or insecticidal soap and increase humidity, as spider mites thrive in dry conditions. See our guide on treating spider mites on houseplants for a step-by-step treatment plan.
Difficulty Level
Monstera is widely regarded as one of the best starter houseplants available. Its combination of low maintenance, impressive appearance, and fast growth makes it ideal for beginners. It forgives missed waterings, tolerates variable light, and is largely pest-resistant in normal conditions.
Calathea sits at the other end of the spectrum. It is frequently described as one of the most demanding common houseplants. Its sensitivity to water quality, humidity, temperature fluctuations, and draughts means that even experienced plant owners sometimes struggle with it. Calathea is not a plant to neglect or move around the house regularly.
That said, calathea is not impossible. Growers who invest in a humidifier, switch to filtered or rainwater, and find a stable medium-light spot often find that calathea settles in and thrives with minimal intervention. The key is consistency — once calathea is happy, it stays happy.
Leaf Appearance and Aesthetics
Both plants are visually striking but in completely different ways.
Monstera is bold, architectural, and dramatic. Its large, glossy leaves with deep fenestrations and splits create strong silhouettes and work beautifully in modern, minimalist, and tropical interior styles. A mature monstera with fully developed leaf holes is genuinely impressive and often becomes a room focal point. The variegated cultivars — Thai Constellation and Albo — take this drama even further, though they demand considerably more care and budget.
Calathea is intricate and painterly. Its appeal lies in the extraordinary detail of its leaf patterning: no two species look alike, and the range from subtle silver feathering to bold geometric blocks is genuinely remarkable. The burgundy and purple undersides of many varieties add a second layer of visual interest that is revealed dramatically when the plant folds up at night. Calathea suits boho, eclectic, and maximalist interiors particularly well, and a collection of several varieties creates a lush, gallery-like display.
Size and Space Considerations
Monstera grows large. Given a support to climb, good light, and regular feeding, it will fill a corner of a room within a few years. Leaves on mature plants can reach 2–3 feet across. In smaller spaces, regular pruning and repotting into controlled-size containers can manage its spread, but its natural instinct is always to expand upward and outward.
Calathea stays compact. Most species reach 1–3 feet tall at maturity and spread no more than 2–3 feet wide. This makes calathea excellent for shelves, tabletops, bathroom windowsills, and small spaces where a large plant would be impractical. Multiple calathea varieties grouped together create a lush, textured display without occupying much floor space — and the humidity they generate for each other is mutually beneficial.
Toxicity: Important for Pet Owners
This is a significant difference if you have pets or young children.
Monstera is toxic to cats and dogs. It contains calcium oxalate crystals that cause oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing if chewed. It is one of the more commonly ingested toxic houseplants, partly because of its widespread popularity. Keep monstera well out of reach of pets.
Calathea is non-toxic to cats, dogs, and humans. This makes it a genuinely pet-safe choice for households with animals that investigate plants. The ASPCA confirms calathea as non-toxic. For pet owners who love tropical foliage, calathea is one of the best options available.
Winner for pet-safe households: Calathea. It is one of the few striking tropical houseplants that is genuinely safe around pets.
Which Should You Choose?
Use this decision guide to find the right plant for your situation:
Choose Monstera if you:
- Are a beginner or prefer low-maintenance plants
- Have a larger space and want a dramatic statement plant
- Have inconsistent watering habits or travel frequently
- Want fast, visible growth and enjoy watching new leaves unfurl
- Prefer a bold, architectural aesthetic that works in modern interiors
Choose Calathea if you:
- Have pets and need a plant that is genuinely non-toxic
- Have a small space and want a compact plant with outstanding leaf detail
- Can provide consistently high humidity (bathroom, or with a humidifier)
- Are drawn to intricate, painterly leaf patterns over bold architectural foliage
- Are an intermediate or experienced plant owner looking for a rewarding challenge
Grow both if you:
- Have space for a large statement plant and want compact accent plants alongside it
- Want to contrast bold architectural foliage with intricate patterned detail
- Have already mastered monstera care and want to expand your tropical plant skills
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I grow monstera and calathea in the same room?
Yes. Monstera tolerates drier air while calathea needs high humidity. If you run a humidifier for your calathea, monstera will also benefit. Keep both away from direct sun and cold draughts and they will coexist well. Grouping them together also naturally raises local humidity, which benefits the calathea in particular.
Why are my calathea leaves curling?
Leaf curling in calathea is almost always a humidity or watering issue. If the air is too dry (below 50% humidity), leaves curl inward to conserve moisture. Underwatering causes similar curling. Check the humidity with a hygrometer and review your watering schedule. Switching from tap water to filtered or rainwater often resolves persistent leaf problems, even when humidity appears adequate.
Does monstera need a moss pole?
Not strictly, but it benefits significantly from one. In the wild, monstera climbs trees, and providing a vertical support encourages larger leaves with more and larger fenestrations. Without support, monstera will trail or grow horizontally. A moss pole, bamboo stake, or coco coir pole all work well; the key is giving the aerial roots something to grip.
Are calathea and prayer plant the same thing?
They are closely related but not identical. Both belong to the Marantaceae family and share the nyctinastic leaf-folding behaviour that earns them the nickname prayer plant. However, Maranta leuconeura (the true prayer plant) is a separate genus from Calathea. For a detailed comparison of the two, see our guide to Calathea vs Maranta.
Why is my monstera not producing fenestrations (holes)?
Young monstera plants always produce whole, unperforated leaves — fenestrations only develop as the plant matures and in good growing conditions. If a monstera older than 2–3 years is still producing unfenestrated leaves, the most common causes are insufficient light, a pot that is too small, or low humidity. Moving the plant to a brighter spot and providing a moss pole to climb usually resolves the issue within a few growing seasons.
Can you propagate calathea in water like monstera?
No. Calathea cannot be propagated in water or from stem cuttings of any kind. Division at repotting time is the only reliable method — each division needs its own intact root system to survive. Monstera, by contrast, roots readily in water from stem cuttings and is one of the easiest houseplants to propagate.
Sources
- ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. aspca.org
- Royal Horticultural Society. Monstera deliciosa. RHS Plant Selector. rhs.org.uk
- University of Florida IFAS Extension. Calathea spp. Tropical Foliage Plants. edis.ifas.ufl.edu
