Calathea vs Maranta: Prayer Plant Differences Explained
Calathea vs Maranta: Prayer Plant Differences Explained
Walk into any plant shop and you will almost certainly find Calathea and Maranta displayed side by side — sometimes even mislabelled as each other. Both are called “prayer plants” because their leaves rise and fold each night in a movement known as nyctinasty, and both flaunt exotic, patterned foliage that looks almost hand-painted. The confusion is completely understandable.
But Calathea and Maranta are not the same plant, and the differences matter the moment you get one home. They belong to separate genera, they respond differently to neglect, and one is significantly harder to keep happy than the other. This guide breaks down every key difference — from taxonomy and leaf markings to care requirements, propagation, and common problems — so you can pick the right prayer plant for your space and keep it thriving long-term.
At a Glance: Calathea vs Maranta Comparison
| Feature | Calathea | Maranta |
|---|---|---|
| Botanical family | Marantaceae (genus Calathea / Goeppertia) | Marantaceae (genus Maranta) |
| Common name | Calathea, prayer plant, peacock plant | Maranta, prayer plant, rabbit’s foot |
| Leaf movement (nyctinasty) | Yes — leaves raise at night | Yes — leaves fold upward and close more dramatically |
| Leaf pattern | Highly varied: pinstripes, feathering, geometric blocks | Classic herringbone or fishbone veins in red or green |
| Growth habit | Upright, clumping — stays compact | Trailing or spreading — longer stems, more sprawling |
| Humidity needs | High — 60%+ preferred | Moderate to high — tolerates 50%+ |
| Watering | Consistently moist; sensitive to fluoride in tap water | Moist but tolerates brief drying; less fussy about water quality |
| Light | Bright indirect; very sensitive to direct sun | Low to bright indirect; more forgiving of lower light |
| Propagation | Division only — no stem cutting propagation | Stem cuttings or division — easier to multiply |
| Toxicity (pet-safe?) | Non-toxic to cats and dogs | Non-toxic to cats and dogs |
| Difficulty | Intermediate to advanced | Beginner to intermediate |
Taxonomy: The Marantaceae Family and the Great Reclassification
To understand why Calathea and Maranta are so often confused, it helps to know a little about the plant family they both belong to. Marantaceae — the arrowroot family — is a group of tropical monocots native primarily to Central and South America, with some species found in Africa and Asia. The family includes around 550 species across 31 genera, and its members are characterised by two traits: asymmetric leaves with a distinctive off-centre midrib, and the ability to move their leaves in response to light.
Calathea and Maranta are different genera within this family. Maranta is a relatively small genus of around 50 species, and its taxonomy has remained largely stable. Calathea, historically a very large genus of over 300 species, has recently undergone a significant reclassification. In 2012, botanists proposed moving most Calathea species into a resurrected genus called Goeppertia, based on phylogenetic analysis showing that the old Calathea group was not monophyletic. Kew Gardens notes that many Calathea species have been reclassified under Goeppertia, though the common name persists widely in horticulture.
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In practice, most growers and nurseries still use the name Calathea, and you will see it on labels, in care guides, and in shops. A plant sold as Calathea ornata is now botanically Goeppertia ornata; Calathea makoyana is Goeppertia makoyana. For the purposes of this guide, I will use Calathea as the common working name — as the horticultural world still does — but it is worth knowing the reclassification exists if you are reading scientific literature.
What does this mean for the Calathea vs Maranta debate? It reinforces that these are genuinely distinct groups of plants, even if they look similar at first glance and share a family address.
1. How to Identify Them: Leaf Movement and Patterns
Both plants share the same family — Marantaceae — which explains the leaf-folding behaviour they have in common. The movement is triggered by light changes and is controlled by a small joint at the base of each leaf stalk called the pulvinus. As light fades in the evening, water pressure in the pulvinus shifts, causing the leaves to rise and fold like hands pressed together in prayer. Come morning, light triggers the reverse movement and the leaves unfurl back to their horizontal, light-catching position.
The degree of movement differs slightly between the two genera. Maranta tends to fold more dramatically and completely — you can hear the rustle of leaves on a quiet evening as a well-established plant closes up. Calathea’s movement is equally genuine but often more subtle, particularly in younger plants or those not fully adapted to their environment.
Calathea Leaf Patterns
Calathea (many species reclassified under Goeppertia) comes in an enormous range of patterns. Calathea ornata (the pinstripe plant) displays bold pink or white lines running parallel to the veins on a deep green background. Calathea makoyana (the peacock plant or cathedral windows plant) has large oval leaves patterned with alternating ovals of light and dark green that mimic a stained glass window. Calathea zebrina (zebra plant) features striking light green stripes on a velvety, darker green background. Calathea lancifolia (rattlesnake plant) has elongated, wavy-edged leaves spotted with darker green ovals.
In almost all Calathea species, the undersides of leaves are a dramatic deep purple or maroon — one of the most reliable identification markers. When the plant folds up at night, these purple undersides are revealed, creating a striking visual effect.
Maranta Leaf Patterns
Maranta species are fewer and more consistent in appearance. Maranta leuconeura — the most common houseplant species — features a distinctive herringbone or fishbone vein pattern, with veins running diagonally from a pale central midrib. The two most widely grown varieties are M. leuconeura erythroneura (the red prayer plant), which has vivid crimson veins on a rich green background, and M. leuconeura kerchoveana (the rabbit’s foot), which has pale green veins and darker blotches along the midrib. The base leaf colour tends to be a softer, lighter green than most Calathea varieties, and the undersides are pale green or light pink rather than purple.
Winner for variety: Calathea wins on sheer visual diversity — hundreds of cultivars with radically different looks. Maranta wins on consistency and recognisability.
2. Care Requirements: Humidity, Water, and Light
Humidity
Both plants originate from tropical rainforest floors where humidity rarely drops below 60%. Calathea is the more demanding of the two — brown leaf edges are almost always the first sign that humidity has dipped too low, and they will show this within days of conditions changing. In a centrally heated UK or US home in winter, humidity can drop to 30–40%, which Calathea finds genuinely difficult. Maranta is slightly more forgiving, tolerating humidity around 50% without immediately declining.
For either plant, methods like pebble trays with water, grouping plants together, or a small humidifier are all effective. Misting is often recommended but has limited effect — it raises humidity briefly but the benefit dissipates within minutes. A dedicated humidifier near your plant collection is the most reliable long-term solution. See our guide on boosting humidity for tropical houseplants for practical setups that work in most homes.
Watering
Calathea prefers consistently moist (but never waterlogged) soil and is notoriously sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in tap water — these minerals cause brown leaf tips even when humidity is adequate. Filtered water, rainwater, or water left overnight in an open container makes a real difference. Check the top inch of soil regularly: water when it begins to dry out, but do not let the plant sit in standing water. For full detail on timing and technique, see how often to water Calathea.
Maranta is more relaxed about water quality and can handle the soil drying slightly between waterings without suffering. It will wilt dramatically when thirsty — which looks alarming — but typically bounces back quickly once watered, which is reassuring for less attentive owners. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then allow the top inch to dry before watering again.
Light
Both plants need bright indirect light and must be kept away from direct sun, which will bleach or scorch the patterns they are prized for. An east- or north-facing windowsill, or a spot a metre or two back from a south- or west-facing window, works well for both. Maranta has a slight edge here: it genuinely tolerates lower light conditions, making it suitable for rooms with north-facing windows or dimmer corners. Calathea needs enough light to sustain its intense leaf colours and will become dull and stunted in very low light.
Temperature
Both plants prefer temperatures between 18–27°C (65–80°F) and should never be exposed to temperatures below 15°C (59°F). Keep them away from cold draughts, air conditioning vents, and single-glazed windows in winter. Temperature stress in Calathea is often mistaken for humidity problems, as both produce similar symptoms — brown edges and curling leaves. If your care is already consistent, check whether a cold draught is reaching the plant, especially overnight.
Winner for ease of care: Maranta — it tolerates a wider range of conditions and is less reactive to minor lapses in watering or humidity.
3. Propagation: How to Make More Plants
This is one of the most practically significant differences between Calathea and Maranta, and one that is often overlooked in comparison guides.
Propagating Calathea
Calathea can only be propagated by division — splitting an established clump into separate sections, each with roots attached. This must be done at repotting time, typically in spring when the plant is actively growing. Use a clean, sharp knife to separate the clump, making sure each division has at least two or three leaves and a healthy root system. Pot each division into fresh, well-draining compost, water gently, and keep in a warm, humid spot while it establishes. Divisions can be slow to settle — expect some leaf drooping for the first week or two as the plant adjusts.
Calathea cannot be propagated from stem cuttings. Unlike many houseplants, cutting a stem and placing it in water will not produce roots — the plant simply has no capacity for that type of vegetative reproduction. This limits how quickly you can build a collection and makes each established plant more valuable.
Propagating Maranta
Maranta is considerably easier to propagate and gives you two methods to choose from. Division works the same way as for Calathea — split the clump at repotting time. But Maranta also roots reliably from stem cuttings, which is a significant advantage. Take a cutting of around 10–15 cm with at least two nodes, remove the lower leaves, and place in a glass of water in a warm, bright spot. Roots typically appear within two to four weeks. Once the roots are 2–3 cm long, pot the cutting into moist compost and keep it humid while it establishes.
Stem cuttings can be taken at almost any time of year, though spring and early summer give the best results. This makes Maranta a generous plant — easy to share with friends or fill out a planter by rooting several cuttings together.
Winner for propagation: Maranta — two reliable methods versus Calathea’s division-only approach.
4. Common Problems and How to Fix Them
Calathea Problems
Calathea has a reputation as one of the more demanding houseplants, and it is largely deserved. The most common problems are:
- Brown leaf edges and tips — the most common complaint. Usually caused by low humidity, fluoride or chlorine in tap water, or cold draughts. Switch to filtered or rainwater, boost humidity, and check for cold air sources. Once brown, the edges will not turn green again — trim neatly with sharp scissors at a slight angle to make the cut less obvious.
- Yellowing leaves — usually a sign of overwatering or poor drainage, which can progress to root rot in houseplants. Check that the pot has drainage holes and that the roots are not sitting in soggy compost. A yellowing lower leaf on an otherwise healthy plant is often simply natural ageing.
- Leaf curl — the leaves roll inward along their length, indicating underwatering, very low humidity, or temperature stress. Water the plant thoroughly and address humidity. If the curling persists after watering, check the roots — severely root-bound plants sometimes curl leaves even when watered regularly.
- Faded patterns — the distinctive markings wash out or become dull, usually because of too much direct sun bleaching the pigments. Move the plant further from the light source or behind a sheer curtain.
- Leaves not moving — if your Calathea has stopped performing its prayer movement, it is usually a sign of stress: too little light, very low humidity, or root problems. Address the underlying care issue and the movement typically returns once the plant recovers.
- Spider mites — Calathea is susceptible to these tiny pests, especially in dry indoor conditions. Look for fine webbing on leaf undersides and stippled, bronze-looking leaves. Treat with a dilute neem oil spray or insecticidal soap, increasing humidity simultaneously, as spider mites thrive in dry air.
Maranta Problems
Maranta shares some of these sensitivities but responds more slowly and recovers more readily. Its main problems are:
- Brown leaf tips — same causes as Calathea (dry air, tap water minerals), but Maranta shows this symptom more slowly and usually less severely. Improving humidity and switching to filtered water resolves it in most cases.
- Yellowing or mushy stems — overwatering is the main culprit. Maranta’s trailing stems can begin to rot at the base if the soil stays too wet for too long. Reduce watering frequency and ensure good drainage.
- Leggy, sparse growth — a sign of insufficient light. The stems extend toward the nearest light source, becoming long and bare between leaves. Move to a brighter spot; Maranta will respond within a few weeks with more compact, bushy growth.
- Leaf spots — irregular brown or tan spots with yellow halos can indicate fungal issues, often caused by water sitting on the leaves. Water at the base of the plant rather than over the foliage, and ensure good airflow around the plant.
If you are still building your confidence with houseplants, it is worth checking our list of the easiest houseplants to keep alive before committing to either of these if your home is on the dry or draughty side.
Winner for resilience: Maranta — more forgiving across the board, with a better track record for inexperienced growers.
5. Pet and Child Safety
Good news for pet owners: both plants are safe. The ASPCA lists Maranta as non-toxic to cats and dogs, and Calathea carries the same status. Neither plant produces toxins that cause serious harm if a cat chews a leaf or a toddler puts a piece in their mouth — though any plant material can cause mild stomach upset if eaten in quantity, so it is still worth placing them out of reach of persistent chewers.
This makes both plants genuinely suitable for households with pets or young children, which is a significant advantage over many other popular tropical houseplants — including some Marantaceae relatives.
Winner: Draw — both are non-toxic and equally safe.
6. Aesthetic Differences and Display Ideas
Beyond the care considerations, there are real aesthetic differences that make one plant better suited to certain spaces than the other.
Calathea grows upright and compact, rarely spreading beyond its pot footprint. Its leaves are larger, stiffer, and more architectural — a single well-grown specimen in a decorative pot makes a strong statement. The sheer variety of cultivars means you can choose from subtle silver brushstrokes (C. zebrina) to bold graphic pinstripes (C. ornata) depending on your décor. The deep purple leaf undersides are revealed dramatically when the plant folds up at night. Calathea looks best elevated on a plant stand or positioned at eye level where the leaf detail can be appreciated. It suits contemporary interiors with clean lines.
Maranta has a softer, more relaxed appearance. Its stems are longer and more trailing, making it suited to hanging baskets, shelf edges, or trailing over the side of a pot. The herringbone vein pattern is striking but consistent across varieties — there is less choice, but the look is reliably beautiful. The red-vein variety (M. leuconeura erythroneura) in particular has a jewel-like quality that photographs exceptionally well. Maranta suits natural, bohemian, or eclectic interiors, and its trailing habit adds softness to angular shelving.
Winner on aesthetics: Personal preference — Calathea for bold, architectural statements; Maranta for trailing softness and a more relaxed look.
How to Tell Them Apart in 30 Seconds
Still not sure which one you are looking at? Use these three definitive visual tells:
- Look at the vein pattern. Herringbone or fishbone veins running diagonally from a central midrib? That is Maranta. Bold pinstripes, geometric blocks, or peacock-eye patterns? That is Calathea.
- Check the underside of a leaf. Deep purple or maroon undersides are a strong indicator of Calathea. Maranta undersides tend to be pale green or light pink.
- Observe the growth habit. Is it growing upright and bushy with large stiff leaves? Calathea. Is it trailing or sprawling with softer, more flexible stems? Maranta.
If you already own a plant and want to deepen your knowledge of the more demanding of the two, the complete Calathea care guide covers every aspect of keeping it thriving long-term.
Which Should You Choose?
- You are a beginner → Choose Maranta. It tolerates inconsistent watering, lower humidity, and the occasional missed week far better than Calathea.
- You have pets or young children → Either is safe. Both are non-toxic, so base your choice on care capacity rather than safety.
- You want a bathroom plant → Both thrive in bathroom humidity, but Maranta is the safer bet if your bathroom has low light. Calathea will need a reasonably bright spot even in a humid room.
- You want maximum visual impact → Choose Calathea. The variety of cultivars, larger leaf size, and architectural upright growth create a more dramatic display.
- You want something to trail from a shelf → Choose Maranta. Its naturally sprawling stems look elegant draping over a bookshelf or in a hanging basket.
- You want to propagate and share → Choose Maranta. Stem cuttings root easily in water, making it simple to multiply your collection or give plants to friends.
- You can provide high humidity (60%+) consistently → Both will thrive, so pick whichever pattern appeals most to you.
FAQ
Are Calathea and Maranta the same plant?
No. Both belong to the Marantaceae family and share the prayer plant movement, but they are distinct genera. Calathea (increasingly reclassified as Goeppertia) and Maranta are related but separate, with different leaf patterns, growth habits, propagation methods, and care requirements.
Why are both called prayer plants?
The shared nickname comes from nyctinasty — the daily leaf movement where both plants fold their leaves upward at night, resembling hands pressed together in prayer. The movement is triggered by changes in light and is controlled by a specialised joint called the pulvinus at the base of each leaf stalk. As light decreases, water pressure in the pulvinus shifts, causing the leaf to rise; as light returns in the morning, the leaf unfurls again.
Is Calathea or Maranta easier to care for?
Maranta is consistently easier to care for. It tolerates lower humidity, is less sensitive to water quality, and recovers better from occasional neglect. Calathea demands high humidity, filtered water, and precise conditions to avoid browning leaf edges. Both are rewarding plants, but Maranta is the better starting point for most growers.
Can Calathea and Maranta be grown together?
Yes — and it is often beneficial. Because they share similar care needs (bright indirect light, high humidity, consistently moist soil), they make good companions. Grouping them together also naturally raises the local humidity, which benefits both plants. Just ensure each has enough space and airflow to prevent fungal issues.
Why has my Calathea been reclassified as Goeppertia?
In 2012, botanical researchers using DNA analysis found that the genus Calathea as previously defined was not a natural grouping — different species within it were more closely related to other Marantaceae genera than to each other. To reflect this, most species were moved into the resurrected genus Goeppertia. The reclassification is scientifically valid, but most of the horticultural world continues to use Calathea as the common name. If you see both names used for the same plant, they refer to the same thing.
Can you propagate Calathea from cuttings?
No — Calathea cannot be propagated from stem or leaf cuttings. Division at repotting time is the only reliable method. Each division needs its own root system to survive. Maranta, by contrast, roots readily from stem cuttings in water and is much easier to propagate.
