How to Grow Lantana: It Returns in Zones 8–11, Is Killed at 28°F North of That, and Needs Sterile Cultivars in Florida

October 10, 2026

Updated on October 10, 2026

11 mins read

How to grow lantana: it returns in zones 8–11, dies at 28°F north of that, and Florida gardeners need sterile cultivars like Bloomify. Planting, pruning, pests.

Lantana is killed at 28°F, and that one number decides how you grow it. In zones 8–11 it comes back from the roots each spring (in zone 8 only after dying to the ground); north of that it is a summer annual you replace or pot up before frost. The second decision is which lantana to buy. UF/IFAS does not recommend the common type anywhere in Florida because it is invasive, and points gardeners to tested sterile cultivars such as Bloomify instead. Settle those two, give it full sun and a light hand with water and fertilizer, and lantana flowers from planting until frost.

The Short Version

Hardiness: killed at 28°F; perennial in zones 9–11, dies to the ground and resprouts in zone 8, annual or pot-up plant in colder zones.
Planting: full sun (6+ hours), well-drained soil, at least 2 weeks after your last frost.
Water and food: deep water about once a week in bloom only if rain is under an inch; little or no fertilizer in the ground, because extra nitrogen and water buy leaves, not flowers.
Pruning: hard cut to 6–12 inches in spring, light shearing in summer, no hard cut in fall where winters freeze.
Buying: in Florida and other mild-winter, bird-heavy areas choose a cultivar whose sterility was measured (Bloomify Red or Rose, Luscious Royale Red Zone) or a native lantana.
Safety: every part is toxic to pets, and unripe berries can poison people.

Which Lantana Should You Buy?

Two species supply most nursery lantana. Common lantana (Lantana camara) is an upright to mounding shrub 1–6 feet tall and 3–5 feet wide; trailing lantana (L. montevidensis) is only 1–1.5 feet tall but spreads 3–5 feet and carries small lavender-purple flowers, according to NC State Extension’s Plant Toolbox. Many named cultivars are crosses between the two, and ‘New Gold’ is one of them.

Trailing purple lantana cascading over a retaining wall beside an upright orange lantana shrub — Trailing lantana spills over walls and baskets; upright common lantana grows as a mound.

The orange-pink-yellow look comes from a simple mechanism: each small flower opens yellow or orange and darkens as it ages, so one flat-topped cluster carries several colors at once. The University of Wisconsin describes flowers that change “to orange or red,” and UF/IFAS describes ‘Bloomify Rose’ opening yellow-orange and turning magenta. That is one plant, not a mixed planting.

Nursery tags say Lantana camara, but UF/IFAS now follows the Atlas of Florida Plants and calls the garden lantana Lantana strigocamara. For buying purposes they are the same plant. What matters more is the cultivar, and whether anyone has measured its fertility.

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Cultivar	Why pick it	Cold note	What the sterility claim rests on
Bloomify Red, Bloomify Rose	Mounded, 14–20 in tall by 12–18 in wide; yellow-to-red or orange-to-magenta clusters	Frost-tender; follow the zone table below	UF/IFAS trial data: about 99% less fruit than a fertile cultivar and no viable seed
Luscious Royale Red Zone	Full, mounding habit; clusters of up to 30 flowers turning yellow to red	Frost-tender	Released by the same UF/IFAS program in 2019, which lists it as sterile
‘New Gold’	Low and spreading, 12–24 in tall and 24–48 in wide; one of the two cultivars butterflies preferred in Auburn trials	Frost-tender	Clemson and Wisconsin call it sterile; we found no UF/IFAS-published fertility data
‘Miss Huff’	Orange and yellow; resistant to Phytophthora	Hardy to zone 7b	Clemson lists it as sterile; no UF/IFAS-published data found
Trailing lantana (L. montevidensis)	Spills over walls and baskets, lavender or white	Zones 8–10; root hardy in zone 8	Not a safe swap: NC State says wildlife spreads its seed and it has naturalized across the South

The practical split: where lantana survives winter outdoors and birds can carry seed, buy a cultivar whose fertility was measured; where frost kills it every year, choose on size and color. For a cousin that handles heat with less drama, see our lantana vs verbena comparison.

Why Sterile Cultivars Matter in Florida

Common lantana is a Category I invasive in Florida because it hybridizes with the native pineland lantana (L. depressa), according to the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council as cited in UF/IFAS bulletin EP544. UF/IFAS’s own assessment judged it invasive in south, central and north Florida, and its invasive-plant directory documents it in 60 counties. The escape route is the berry: birds eat the fruit and spread the seed, which is why UF/IFAS tells gardeners to plant sterile cultivars or native lantanas instead.

“Sterile” on a plant tag is a claim; the UF/IFAS numbers are measurements. In its trials the fertile control cultivar ‘Pink Caprice’ set about 9 fruits per flower cluster and sprouted 45% of its seed. The Bloomify cultivars set almost none.

Cultivar	Pollen viability (stain test)	Fruit per flower cluster	Fruit set when crossed with native L. depressa
‘Pink Caprice’ (fertile control)	73.1%	9.13	8.6% and 19.7% (the two directions)
Bloomify Rose	9.7%	0.03	0.2% (one seed, which did not germinate)
Bloomify Red	3%	0.01	No fruit in either direction

The takeaway: the Bloomify cultivars produce about 99% less fruit than the fertile control, and UF/IFAS’s reviewers concluded they have little potential to hybridize with it and are “not a problem species.” A sterile label is only as good as the measurements behind it. UF/IFAS bulletin ENH1202, on its earlier sterile releases, warns that many existing L. camara varieties are highly fertile, producing plenty of fruit, seed and viable pollen.

Older “sterile” claims are harder to check. Clemson and the University of Wisconsin call ‘New Gold’ sterile, and Clemson adds ‘Miss Huff’, ‘Samantha’ and ‘Mozelle’. Those may well be right, but they are extension-office statements, not the measured data above, so treat them as a reasonable bet rather than proof.

You can run your own test in late summer. UF/IFAS Nassau County’s rule: if a lantana produces tiny black seeds, remove it; sterile varieties will not. If you already own a fertile plant, cut off the clusters before the berries ripen or dig it out. Outside Florida the risk tracks winter: the University of Wisconsin lists lantana as an invasive weed in Hawaii, Florida, Texas and other mild climates, and says invasiveness is not a concern in Wisconsin, where cold kills the plant.

For a true native, UF/IFAS recommends button sage (L. involucrata) and pineland lantana (L. depressa). Both are rare in the wild, so buy from a reliable native nursery. In North Carolina, NC State’s suggested native alternatives to lantana are purple passionflower, black-eyed Susan and Verbena canadensis.

Lantana by Zone: Perennial or Annual?

Lantana is a reliable perennial in zones 9–11, dies to the ground and regrows from the roots in zone 8, and is an annual in colder zones apart from a few 7b-hardy selections. NC State lists common lantana for zones 7a–11b, while the University of Wisconsin notes most are hardy only to zone 8. The gap is the cold-hardy selections ‘Miss Huff’, ‘Ham and Eggs’ and ‘Chapel Hill Yellow’, which NC State and Clemson rate to zone 7b.

Zone is only a guide. University of Arkansas Extension calls lantana a true perennial in south Arkansas, “hit and miss” in central Arkansas and usually an annual in the north: one state, three outcomes. Mulch helps at the edge: NC State says well-mulched trailing lantana in zone 8 resprouts in spring.

Zone	What lantana does	Plant out	Blooms	Cut back
10–11	Perennial shrub	Any frost-free month	Most of the year; year-round in southern Florida	Late winter, to 6–12 in
9	Perennial; frost burns the tops, roots regrow	March–April	May–December in north and central Florida	Late winter, after the last freeze
8	Dies to the ground, resprouts if mulched	April	Midsummer to first frost	March–April, once new growth shows
7	Annual, except 7b-hardy selections	Late April–May	Planting to first frost	Leave tops on over winter; trim in spring if it returns
3–6	Annual; killed at 28°F	Mid-May–June	Planting to first frost	Pot up or root cuttings before first frost

In short: anything colder than zone 8 is an annual, and the bloom window runs from the day you plant to the first frost. The Plant-out column is our estimate, a typical last-frost date plus the two-week buffer Clemson recommends, so replace it with your own local last-frost date. Bloom windows for Florida come from UF/IFAS, and the zone 8 window from NC State’s description of flowering from midsummer until frost.

Table of lantana by USDA zone showing perennial in zones 9 to 11, dies back and resprouts in zone 8, annual in zones 7 and colder, with planting month, bloom window and cutback timing — Lantana is killed at 28°F, so anything colder than zone 8 is an annual unless you pot it up before frost.

Zone 8 is where most lantana gets written off too early. Clemson says hardy lantanas show no spring growth until soil and air are quite warm, and Arkansas Extension says they are often slow to bounce back, so wait until other perennials have fully leafed out before you pull one. For companions that share its sun and drainage, see our perennial flowers growing guide, and for the botany behind “annual or perennial” our annual vs perennial explainer.

How to Plant Lantana

Plant at least two weeks after your last frost, in full sun, in soil that drains. Clemson gives the two-week rule. The reason is the plant’s origin: common lantana is native to the West Indies and tropical America, so in cold soil it simply stalls, and a plant set out early sits there while a later one catches up.

Sun. NC State specifies full sun, meaning 6 or more hours of direct light. Less sun means fewer flowers, and Clemson ties powdery mildew to shade.

Soil. Drainage matters more than pH. NC State lists pH 6.0–8.0, Clemson says slightly acid, and both agree it tolerates poor soil if water does not sit. Clemson links root rot to poorly drained soil and frequent watering.

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Spacing. Space at the mature width on the tag: 12–18 inches for Bloomify, 24–48 for ‘New Gold’, up to 3–5 feet for species-type plants. Expect gaps at first; NC State rates lantana a rapid grower, so the bed fills in.

Containers. Lantana suits pots and hanging baskets, and the University of Wisconsin recommends fertilizing container plants monthly in the growing season. Pair it with other heat lovers from our full-sun container flowers list.

Watering and Feeding: Why Less Gets You More Flowers

Established lantana needs a deep soak about once a week while in bloom, and only if the week brought under an inch of rain. That is Clemson’s schedule; it also warns that bloom and growth decline if the plant stays too dry for long. UF/IFAS adds that lantana will “flower more when watered regularly,” so the sources disagree on emphasis. The resolution is deep and infrequent: roots stay moist at depth, foliage stays dry (Clemson says to avoid overhead watering), and the soil drains between soakings.

Feeding is where most gardeners overdo it. The University of Wisconsin says plants in the ground should not need any fertilizer and that “too much water and fertilizer will reduce bloom.” Clemson agrees that a light spring feeding is usually enough and adds that too much cuts flowering and raises disease susceptibility. The usual explanation, a general plant-nutrition principle rather than a lantana-specific finding, is that surplus nitrogen pushes leaf growth at the expense of flower buds. Use slow-release fertilizer lightly, as UF/IFAS suggests, and feed pots monthly.

Pruning and Deadheading

Shear tips lightly through summer, and make one hard cut in spring to 6–12 inches. Clemson gives both rules, plus a limit of one-third of height and spread for oversized plants. The one disagreement is fall. UF/IFAS says to cut lantana back almost to the ground at the end of the season, while Clemson warns that hard fall pruning reduces cold hardiness. Both fit their climates: leave the old tops on as insulation where winters freeze, and cut at season’s end only where freezes are rare.

The University of Wisconsin recommends deadheading for non-sterile types, either snipping faded flowers or trimming the whole plant with hedge clippers. Sterile cultivars need it less. Our lantana pruning guide covers how far to cut, why it works, and the five-week bloom gap a 2024 trial measured after a hard cut.

Overwintering Lantana North of Zone 8

Move lantana indoors before the first frost, because the University of Wisconsin puts the kill point at 28°F. You have three choices, in rising effort:

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Buy new plants each spring. Nursery plants arrive in bloom. The University of Wisconsin notes that seedlings take a long time to flower, so skip growing from seed in short seasons.
Pot up the whole plant. University of Illinois Extension says to dig it before frost, get as much root as you can, replant in fresh potting mix, and cut it back to half its size. Inspect and rinse the leaves first; NC State warns that whiteflies and spider mites plague overwintered plants.
Root cuttings. Illinois Extension’s method: take 3–5 inch tips with four to six leaf nodes, strip the flowers and the bottom leaves, bag the pot, and keep it in bright indirect light. Roots form in three to four weeks. The University of Wisconsin suggests fall cuttings for next spring’s plants, and our Labor Day cuttings guide covers the timing.

Lantana Pests and Problems

The most damaging lantana pest is the lantana lace bug, and it can shut down flowering entirely. UGA Extension says it feeds on leaf undersides and on developing flower buds, which die and turn brown. Scout from April with a hand lens, hand-pick pale or yellowed leaves, and spray with water, insecticidal soap or horticultural oil before reaching for insecticide, which can harm the pollinators lantana attracts.

Symptom	Likely cause	Fix
Lots of leaves, few flowers	Too much nitrogen or water	Stop feeding; water deeply but less often
Bleached, stippled leaves; brown tips; dying buds	Lantana lace bug	Check leaf undersides; remove damaged leaves; spray water, soap or oil
Dull, speckled leaves on a dry plant	Spider mites	Water deeply; rinse foliage
Black sooty coating on leaves	Whitefly honeydew	Control the whiteflies; the mold follows them
White powder on shaded plants	Powdery mildew	Move to full sun; improve air flow
Yellowing and wilting in wet soil	Root rot	Improve drainage; stop frequent watering
No growth in spring (zone 8)	Cold soil, not necessarily death	Wait until the soil warms before digging it out
Dark berries or tiny black seeds	Fertile cultivar	Remove seed heads; replace with a sterile cultivar

The pattern across the sources: most lantana trouble traces to water, feeding or light. For leaf spot, powdery mildew and root rot in more detail, see our lantana diseases guide.

Are Lantana Berries Poisonous?

Yes. Unripe lantana berries are poisonous, and the sources agree on little beyond that. The UF/IFAS invasive-plant directory says unripe berries can seriously poison humans, depending on the amount eaten and the age of the person; Clemson says the fruit can be poisonous, “especially if eaten in quantity.” NC State is milder on people, saying leaves and unripe green berries can cause minor skin irritation, but it still flags the plant as a problem for children, dogs, cats and horses.

Lantana berry cluster with green, purple, blue and black berries ripening side by side — Lantana fruit ripens from green through purple to blue-black; the unripe green berries are the main poisoning concern.

The ASPCA lists lantana as toxic to dogs, cats and horses. It names pentacyclic triterpenoids as the toxic principle, with vomiting, diarrhea, labored breathing and weakness as signs, and notes that liver failure is more common in livestock. Most sources single out the unripe fruit and say little about ripe berries; Clemson and the ASPCA make no ripeness distinction, so do not treat black berries as safe.

Plant it away from toddlers’ and dogs’ play areas and wear gloves, since NC State’s trailing lantana page calls the leaves and sap skin irritants. Sterile cultivars remove most of the berry hazard, with 0.01–0.03 fruit per cluster against 9.13 in the fertile control, but UF/IFAS notes the leaves stay highly toxic to animals. If someone may have eaten lantana, call Poison Help at 1-800-222-1222 for a person or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control at (888) 426-4435 for a pet.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is lantana a perennial or an annual?

Both, depending on your winter. Lantana returns from its roots in zones 8–11, though it dies back to the ground in zone 8. In zones 7 and colder it is grown as an annual, apart from cold-hardy selections like ‘Miss Huff’ that are rated to zone 7b.

What temperature kills lantana?

The University of Wisconsin puts it at 28°F. Foliage will blacken after a hard frost, but in zones 8–11 the roots can survive and resprout in spring.

Is lantana invasive?

In Florida, yes. The common type is a Category I invasive, and UF/IFAS recommends sterile cultivars such as Bloomify Red and Rose, or native lantanas. In cold-winter states such as Wisconsin it is not a concern.

How can I tell if my lantana is sterile?

Check the cultivar against UF/IFAS-tested releases (Bloomify Red, Bloomify Rose, Luscious Royale Red Zone), then look in late summer. A plant carrying dark berries or tiny black seeds is fertile.

How much sun and water does lantana need?

It needs 6 or more hours of direct sun. Once established, give it a deep soak about weekly during bloom if rain is under an inch, and keep fertilizer light.

Is lantana poisonous to dogs and children?

Yes. The ASPCA lists it as toxic to dogs and cats, and UF/IFAS warns unripe berries can seriously poison people. Keep it away from play areas and call poison control if any is eaten.

Sources

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