New Jersey Planting Guide: What to Grow and When
New Jersey is a genuinely confusing state to garden in. Not because it’s hard — it isn’t — but because the planting advice you find online almost never applies to your actual yard. A gardener in Vernon Township (zone 5b) and a gardener in Cape May (zone 7b) are effectively gardening in different climates, separated by barely 150 miles. That matters a lot when you’re trying to figure out when to start tomatoes.
This guide covers the full state: every zone, every season, with real frost dates and a planting calendar you can actually use. Whether you’re in the northern highlands, the crowded suburbs of central Jersey, or the flat farmland of the south, here’s what to grow and when.
New Jersey’s USDA Growing Zones
New Jersey spans USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 7b — four distinct zones in a state you can drive across in under two hours. The further north and inland you are, the colder your winters. The further south and coastal, the milder.
If you don’t know your zone, look it up at the USDA interactive zone map. Enter your zip code and you’ll get your exact zone. It’s worth doing because zone 6a and zone 6b have different last frost dates, and that week or two can matter for sensitive crops.
| Region | Counties / Areas | USDA Zone(s) | Winter Low |
|---|---|---|---|
| Northwest Highlands | Sussex, Warren, northern Passaic | 5b–6a | -15 to -5°F |
| North Jersey | Morris, Hunterdon, Somerset, Middlesex | 6a–6b | -10 to 0°F |
| Metro / Coastal Central | Union, Essex, Monmouth, Ocean | 6b–7a | 0 to 10°F |
| South Jersey | Burlington, Camden, Gloucester, Salem | 7a | 0 to 10°F |
| Coastal South | Cumberland, Cape May, Atlantic | 7a–7b | 0 to 15°F |
The coast moderates everything. Ocean City in zone 7b rarely sees the hard freezes that Sparta in zone 5b gets every January. This also means coastal gardeners often have a full month more at each end of the season. Worth keeping in mind if you’re jealous of southern Jersey gardeners.
Frost Dates for New Jersey: When to Plant and When to Cover
The frost dates below come from Rutgers Cooperative Extension historical averages. These are the dates when there’s a 50% probability of frost — meaning half the years you won’t see frost after these dates, half the years you might. If you’re cautious (or if you’re setting out expensive transplants), use the more conservative dates in parentheses.
| USDA Zone | Last Spring Frost | First Fall Frost | Growing Season |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 5b | May 1–15 (May 20) | Oct 1–15 | ~140–155 days |
| Zone 6a | Apr 15–May 1 (May 10) | Oct 15–31 | ~160–175 days |
| Zone 6b | Apr 1–15 (Apr 30) | Oct 31–Nov 15 | ~175–200 days |
| Zone 7a | Mar 30–Apr 15 (Apr 25) | Nov 1–15 | ~200–215 days |
| Zone 7b | Mar 15–30 (Apr 10) | Nov 15–Dec 1 | ~215–230 days |
Zone 7b gardeners near the coast get almost eight months of frost-free growing. Zone 5b gardeners in the Sussex County highlands are working with five. If you want to extend your season at either end, a year-round planting calendar with season extension techniques can add several weeks on both ends.
One thing many NJ gardeners learn late: the first fall frost date is more reliable than the last spring frost. Spring temperatures can spike and crash. A 70°F day in early April followed by 28°F a week later isn’t unusual. Give your frost dates a 10-day buffer in spring, especially in zones 5b and 6a.
New Jersey Monthly Planting Calendar
The calendar below assumes zones 6a–6b — where the bulk of New Jersey’s population lives. Adjust earlier by 2–3 weeks for zone 7a–7b (southern NJ), or later by 2–3 weeks for zone 5b (northwest highlands).
| Month | Indoors (Start Seeds) | Outdoors (Direct Sow / Transplant) |
|---|---|---|
| January | Onions, leeks, celery | — |
| February | Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, herbs | — |
| March | Brassicas, cucumbers (late March) | Cold frames: spinach, lettuce, arugula |
| April | Squash, melons (late April) | Peas, spinach, lettuce, radishes, kale, onion sets |
| May | — | After last frost: tomatoes, peppers, beans, cucumbers, squash, corn, basil |
| June | — | Second round beans, summer squash; winter squash starts |
| July | Broccoli, cauliflower, kale for fall | Succession lettuce (heat-tolerant varieties) |
| August | — | Fall brassica transplants, direct-sow spinach, arugula, radishes |
| September | — | Garlic (after Sept 15), kale, lettuce under row cover |
| October | — | Garlic planting continues; cold-tolerant greens under cover |
| November | — | Finish garlic planting; spring bulbs (tulips, daffodils) |
| December | Review seed catalogs | — |
Best Vegetables to Grow in New Jersey
NJ’s mix of hot summers, adequate rainfall (around 45 inches per year statewide), and decent growing season makes it good for a wide range of vegetables. The following perform consistently well across most of the state. Some have specific zone notes where performance varies significantly.
| Vegetable | When to Plant Outdoors | Days to Harvest | Zone Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tomatoes | After last frost (mid-May in zone 6) | 60–85 days | Choose shorter-season varieties (65 days or less) for zone 5b |
| Peppers (sweet & hot) | After last frost; soil temp 60°F+ | 70–90 days | Excellent in south NJ; zone 5b may need a head start indoors in January |
| Green beans (bush) | Direct sow after last frost | 50–60 days | Easy statewide; succession plant every 3 weeks through July |
| Zucchini / Summer squash | After last frost | 45–55 days | Powdery mildew is common in humid NJ summers — choose resistant varieties |
| Cucumbers | After last frost; warm soil | 50–70 days | Excellent statewide; trellis to improve air circulation |
| Sweet corn | When soil hits 60°F | 65–90 days | Needs 3–4 rows minimum for pollination; very popular in south Jersey |
| Lettuce | 4–6 weeks before last frost; again in Aug | 45–65 days | Bolts in summer heat — shade cloth extends spring season |
| Broccoli | Early spring or late July for fall | 60–80 days | Fall crop often outperforms spring in NJ; cooler temperatures = better heads |
| Garlic | October (plant in fall) | Harvest July | Excellent statewide; hardneck varieties suit zones 5b–6b best |
| Sweet potatoes | Slips after last frost, soil 65°F+ | 90–120 days | Zone 7 and southern zone 6b; season too short in 5b without plastic mulch |
| Kale | Spring or fall; very cold-tolerant | 55–70 days | Statewide; improves in flavor after frost |
| Peas (sugar snap) | 4–6 weeks before last frost | 55–80 days | Spring crop only; heat kills them — plant early or skip until fall |
Planning which vegetables grow near each other can also boost yields. The right companion planting combinations can suppress weeds, confuse pests, and improve growing conditions without any additional inputs.
Flowers and Perennials for New Jersey Gardens
The same zone diversity that makes vegetable gardening complicated makes NJ an excellent state for ornamental plants. You can grow many plants that struggle further north, while northern NJ gardeners can pull off reliably cold-hardy perennials that zone 7 gardeners can’t count on.
Native Perennials That Thrive Statewide
Native plants are the best starting point for any NJ garden. They’re adapted to local rainfall patterns, soil types, and wildlife pressure (crucial when deer are a constant problem). These perform consistently across zones 5b–7b:
- Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) — drought-tolerant, blooms July–September, excellent for pollinators
- Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) — deer-resistant once established, extremely long-blooming
- Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa) — critical monarch habitat, thrives in poor sandy soils including Pine Barrens-type sites
- Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum) — back-of-border giant, excellent late-season pollinator plant
- Blue wild indigo (Baptisia australis) — slow to establish but virtually indestructible once settled, attractive seed pods in fall
- Wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) — early spring bloomer, hummingbird magnet, tolerates dappled shade
Annuals Worth Growing in NJ
NJ summers are hot enough for true tropical annuals. These shine here:
- Zinnias — thrive in NJ heat, direct sow after last frost, cut-and-come-again through first frost
- Cosmos — easy from seed, self-sows freely, excellent butterfly plant
- Marigolds — reliable, deer-resistant, double as vegetable garden pest deterrents
- Dahlias — spectacular tubers started indoors in March; lift and store after first frost in zones 5b–6a, may overwinter in protected zone 7 spots
- Sunflowers — direct sow in May, excellent in south Jersey’s long summers
Spring Bulbs
Plant spring-blooming bulbs in October and November throughout NJ. Tulips, daffodils, alliums, and hyacinths all perform well. Daffodils are largely deer-proof — a significant advantage in NJ where deer pressure is relentless in suburban and rural areas alike.
Spring Planting in New Jersey (March–May)
Spring in NJ is unreliable. That’s the honest truth. You can have 75°F days in March followed by snow in April. Plan for it rather than assuming the warm spell holds.
March: Start cool-season crops indoors if you haven’t already — broccoli, cauliflower, and onion transplants. In zone 6b and warmer, start direct-sowing outdoors under row cover: spinach, arugula, and radishes are all frost-tolerant enough to go in now. Prep beds and amend soil before things get too busy.
April: Direct sow peas, lettuce, and kale outdoors once soil is workable (even if there’s still frost risk — these crops handle it). In zones 6b–7b, tomato and pepper transplants can go out under row cover mid-to-late April if you’re watching the forecast. Zone 5b and 6a: wait until May.
May: The month of action. After your last frost date, all warm-season crops can go out: tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, squash, corn. Don’t rush it. Tomatoes planted in cold soil (below 55°F) stall out and often get passed by plants set out two weeks later in warm soil. Soil temperature matters as much as air temperature.
Summer Planting and Succession Crops (June–August)
NJ summers get properly hot — July and August average highs in the mid-to-upper 80s in most of the state, with humidity to match. Cool-season crops planted in spring will bolt or go bitter. Shift focus to heat-lovers.
June: Last chance to direct-sow beans for a full summer harvest. Start a second round of cucumber and summer squash seeds directly in the garden. Winter squash (butternut, acorn, delicata) goes in now for fall harvest.
July: Start fall brassicas indoors. Broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage for fall need to be started by mid-July (zone 6) or early August (zone 7) to make their harvest window before hard frost. This is easy to forget during the heat of midsummer but critical for a productive fall garden.
August: Transplant fall brassica starts. Direct-sow spinach, arugula, radishes, and turnips. These will germinate fast in the still-warm soil, then mature beautifully in September’s cooler temperatures. This is one of the most rewarding windows in the NJ gardening year.
Fall Planting in New Jersey (September–November)
Fall is underrated in NJ. The September–October window is excellent for leafy greens, and the first frost arrives late enough in zones 6b–7b that you can extend harvests well into November with minimal protection.
Stop missing your zone's planting windows.
Select your US zone and month — get a complete checklist of what to plant, prune, feed, and protect right now.
→ View My Garden CalendarSeptember: Keep harvesting summer crops. Get fall greens in the ground — kale, spinach, chard, and mache thrive in fall temperatures. After September 15, garlic planting can begin in most of NJ (zone 6 and warmer). Garlic planted now overwinters and is harvested the following July.
October: Finish garlic planting by mid-October in zones 5b–6a, or through October in zone 6b–7. Plant spring bulbs now: tulips, daffodils, alliums. This is the month most NJ gardeners pull summer crops and turn compost into beds.
November: Cover cold-hardy greens with row cover or cold frames to extend harvest. Clean up spent summer crops and add them to compost. Finish spring bulb planting before ground freezes. In zone 7, some greens will continue producing with minimal protection through December.
The ongoing shift of shifting USDA zones means fall windows in NJ are getting longer. Zone 7a gardeners especially are seeing first frosts arrive later than historical averages in recent years.
Five Challenges New Jersey Gardeners Deal With
NJ is a good gardening state, but it has specific challenges that show up again and again.
1. Deer
This is probably the number one issue for suburban and rural NJ gardeners. White-tailed deer populations are dense across the state. Fencing is the only reliable solution — an 8-foot fence or an angled double fence. Deer-resistant plants (native rudbeckia, coneflower, catmint, lamb’s ear, alliums, lavender) help reduce damage, but “deer resistant” doesn’t mean “deer proof” when food is scarce.
2. Humidity and Fungal Disease
NJ summers are humid. Powdery mildew on squash, early blight on tomatoes, and downy mildew on lettuce are common. The best defenses: good air circulation (don’t crowd plants), disease-resistant varieties, and watering at the base rather than overhead. Morning watering that allows leaves to dry before night cuts disease incidence significantly.
3. Soil Variability
Northern NJ soils tend toward clay-loam — fertile but drainage can be poor. Southern NJ’s Pine Barrens region has extremely sandy, acidic, low-fertility soil that grows blueberries beautifully but requires heavy amendment for vegetables. Before assuming your soil is average, do a soil test (Rutgers Cooperative Extension offers testing at low cost) and amend specifically for what you’re short on.
4. Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetle pressure in NJ is high, typically peaking in late June through August. They shred rose blooms, basil, beans, and fruit tree leaves. Hand-picking into soapy water works for small infestations. Avoid Japanese beetle traps — they attract more beetles from surrounding areas than they catch from your garden.
5. Late Spring Cold Snaps
Already mentioned, but worth a dedicated note: don’t let a warm April convince you spring has arrived. Keep row cover and old bedsheets on hand through May in most of NJ. A surprise frost warning in the first week of May happens more years than not in zones 5b and 6a. Check forecasts before transplanting tender starts.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the last frost date in New Jersey?
It depends on where you are. In northern NJ (zone 5b), the last frost averages May 1–15. In central NJ (zone 6a–6b), expect April 1–May 1. In southern NJ (zone 7a–7b), the last frost usually falls between late March and mid-April. Always add a 10-day buffer before setting out frost-sensitive transplants.
What zone is most of New Jersey?
The majority of New Jersey — including most of the densely populated suburbs and corridor — falls in zones 6a and 6b. The northwest corner of the state (Sussex, Warren counties) dips into zone 5b, while the southern coastal strip reaches zone 7a–7b.
Can I grow tomatoes in New Jersey?
Yes, easily. New Jersey has a long history of commercial tomato growing. Start seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before your last frost date, or buy transplants. Set out after your last frost when soil is consistently above 55°F. Choose varieties rated 75 days or less if you’re in zone 5b to ensure full ripening before fall frost.
What should I plant in fall in New Jersey?
The fall garden in NJ is excellent for greens: spinach, kale, arugula, lettuce, mache, chard, and Asian greens all thrive in September–November temperatures. Plant garlic in October for harvest the following July. Set out spring bulbs in October and November before the ground freezes.
Is New Jersey good for growing peppers?
Yes, especially in zones 6b–7b in south-central and southern NJ. The hot, humid summers that challenge some crops are ideal for peppers. Start seeds indoors in late January or February — peppers need a long head start. Set out when night temperatures are consistently above 55°F and the soil is warm.
