What to Plant in Autumn: Spring Bulbs, Hardy Shrubs and the Brassicas That Taste Better After Frost
Autumn is one of the best planting seasons in the gardening year. Discover what to plant in autumn — from spring bulbs and bare-root shrubs to winter vegetables and garlic — and why it works so well.
Many gardeners treat autumn as the end of the growing year. In reality, it’s one of the most rewarding planting seasons — arguably better than spring for certain categories of plant. The combination of cooling air temperatures, still-warm soil, and reliable autumn rainfall creates near-ideal establishment conditions. Roots grow strongly without the plant needing to support top growth at the same time, and plants go into winter with a head start that spring-planted equivalents rarely match.
This guide covers everything worth planting in autumn — from the bulbs that will transform your garden in March and April, to the shrubs and trees that will grow with you for decades, to the vegetables that will keep your kitchen supplied through the coldest months.
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Why Autumn Planting Works
The logic behind autumn planting is simple: soil temperatures fall more slowly than air temperatures after summer. Even in November, soil at 15–20cm depth may still be 8–10°C — warm enough for strong root development. By the time hard frost arrives, autumn-planted subjects have had weeks to anchor themselves and begin storing energy for spring growth.
Compare this to spring planting: the soil warms later than the air, so spring-planted shrubs and trees often sit doing very little for weeks before roots begin to grow. Meanwhile, rising air temperatures push the plant to leaf out and flower, creating a demand for water and nutrients that the root system can’t yet meet. This is why bare-root plants — available only in autumn — consistently outperform container-grown equivalents planted in spring.
Autumn planting also means less watering. Autumn and winter rainfall does most of the work; you’re simply not needed in the same way you would be if planting in May or June.
Spring Bulbs to Plant in Autumn
Spring-flowering bulbs are the defining reason to garden in autumn. There is no spring substitute — they must go in the ground between September and November or you simply won’t have them in spring.
Tulips (Tulipa)
Tulips are best planted in October to November — later than most other spring bulbs. Cooler soil (below 10°C) reduces the risk of tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae), a fungal disease that can devastate a planting. Plant at a depth of three times the bulb height — typically 15–20cm for standard-size bulbs — in free-draining soil or raised beds. Space 10–15cm apart in generous drifts of a single variety for maximum impact. Avoid planting in the same spot two years running to reduce disease risk.
Choose from the main groups: Single Early (compact, early flowering), Darwin Hybrid (large flowers, long stems, great for cutting), Triumph (mid-season, robust), Parrot (fringed, exotic-looking), and late-flowering Viridiflora types. For a bold display, layer tulips beneath earlier-emerging daffodils in the same container.
Daffodils (Narcissus)
Daffodils are the easiest and most reliable spring bulbs, fully hardy and largely ignored by squirrels, deer, and other bulb-eating pests. Plant from mid-September through October, 10–15cm deep depending on bulb size (three times the height of the bulb), and 8–12cm apart. They naturalise well in grass — use a bulb planter for clean holes rather than trying to dig with a spade, and scatter bulbs before planting to achieve a natural, random distribution.
Key types include large-cupped varieties (reliable for borders), miniature types like Narcissus ‘Tête-à-Tête’ (perfect for pots), and pheasant’s eye (N. poeticus) which flowers later in May — excellent for extending the daffodil season.
Alliums
Ornamental onions are among the best choices for late spring interest, producing architectural spherical flower heads on tall stems in May and June. Plant from September, 10–15cm deep and 15–20cm apart. ‘Purple Sensation’ and ‘Gladiator’ produce rich violet-purple globes around 20cm across; ‘Mount Everest’ offers white flowers as a contrast. Alliums work beautifully weaving through perennial plantings where their seed heads continue providing interest through summer.
Crocuses
Crocuses are the earliest heralds of spring, flowering from February in mild years. Plant in September–October, just 5–8cm deep and 5–10cm apart. Species crocuses (such as Crocus tommasinianus) naturalise in grass more effectively than large-flowered Dutch types, spreading into colonies over time. Plant in a grid across a lawn area — they’ll spread and fill the gaps. Unlike most bulbs, crocuses need a sunny spot to open their flowers fully.
Hyacinths
Hyacinths produce intensely fragrant flowers in March–April. Plant 10–15cm deep in September–October. In containers, pack them tightly — 5–7 bulbs per 30cm pot — for a mass of scent and colour. They’re excellent near doorways or windows where the fragrance can be enjoyed. After the first year of flowering, hyacinth bulbs tend to produce thinner flower spikes; many gardeners treat them as annuals and replant fresh bulbs each autumn.
Snowdrops
Snowdrops (Galanthus) are best planted ‘in the green’ — as actively growing plants in late winter — but dry bulbs planted in autumn in September–October will also establish successfully. Plant 5–8cm deep and 5–8cm apart in groups, ideally in light dappled shade beneath deciduous trees. Once established, they naturalise freely and require no further attention.
Bulb Planting Depth Guide
| Bulb | Planting Depth | Spacing | Best Month |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tulips | 15–20cm | 10–15cm | October–November |
| Daffodils | 10–15cm | 8–12cm | September–October |
| Alliums | 10–15cm | 15–20cm | September–October |
| Crocuses | 5–8cm | 5–10cm | September–October |
| Hyacinths | 10–15cm | 8–12cm | September–October |
| Snowdrops | 5–8cm | 5–8cm | September–October |
Shrubs and Trees to Plant in Autumn
For woody plants — shrubs, trees, climbers, and hedging — autumn is the best planting season of the year. The reasons are the same as for bulbs: warm soil drives root development before the plant goes dormant, and winter rainfall reduces the need for irrigation.
Rhododendrons and azaleas establish particularly well when planted in October–November. As acid-loving, shallow-rooted plants, they benefit enormously from autumn planting in ericaceous soil amended with plenty of organic matter. Their fine surface roots can be established before the following season’s demands begin. For detailed growing advice, see our complete rhododendron care guide.
Hydrangeas planted in autumn will establish faster and flower more reliably the following summer than those planted in spring. Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas are best planted in October–November in moist, well-drained soil. Mulch heavily after planting. For variety selection and growing tips, see our hydrangeas care guide.
Bare-root roses arrive in garden centres and online nurseries from October through February. This is by far the most economical way to buy roses — bare-root specimens cost a fraction of container-grown plants and establish better. Plant as soon as the ground is workable in a hole wide enough to spread the roots fully, at the same depth as the nursery mark on the stem. Mound soil over the bud union in the first winter to protect it from frost. For full rose planting and care instructions, see our roses care guide.
Hedging plants — hawthorn, hazel, blackthorn, beech, hornbeam — are almost always available bare-root in autumn and are transformed by autumn planting. A bare-root whip planted in October will be substantially better established than an expensive container-grown equivalent planted in May.
Fruit trees planted on semi-dwarfing or dwarfing rootstocks establish extremely well in autumn. Choose from apples, pears, plums, and cherries. Stake young trees on the windward side to prevent wind-rock loosening the newly developing root system.
Winter Vegetables
Autumn is the key planting and sowing time for vegetables that will carry through to harvest in winter and early spring.
Garlic
Garlic is one of the easiest and most rewarding autumn crops. Plant individual cloves from October through December — November is ideal — with the pointed tip upwards, 15cm apart and 3–4cm deep. Garlic requires a period of cold to vernalise (trigger bulb formation), making autumn planting more productive than spring. Harvest the following June–July when the lower leaves begin to yellow.
Kale
Autumn-planted kale varieties such as ‘Dwarf Green Curled’ and ‘Nero di Toscana’ (cavolo nero) will stand through hard frosts and often improve in flavour after cold — the leaves become sweeter as starches convert to sugars. Transplant seedlings raised in late summer to their final positions in September–October, 45cm apart. Stake tall varieties against winter winds.
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→ View My Garden CalendarLeeks
Leeks sown in early spring are transplanted into deep holes in late summer and stand through winter for harvest from October through March. Varieties for winter harvest include ‘Musselburgh’ (extremely cold-hardy), ‘Bleu de Solaise’ (turns purple in cold), and ‘Apollo’ (good standing time). Harvest as needed from November onwards — they’ll stay in the ground without deteriorating in cold weather.
Winter Lettuce
Hardy lettuce varieties for autumn planting — ‘Winter Gem’, ‘Arctic King’, ‘Valdor’ — can be sown in September for a late autumn harvest, or in October under a cold frame or cloche for harvesting through winter. They grow slowly in low light and cold temperatures, but a few plants in a cold frame will supply fresh salad leaves through even the coldest months.
Overwintering Onion Sets
Heat-treated onion sets planted in October–November produce an early summer crop that beats spring-planted sets by several weeks. Plant 10cm apart, just deep enough that the tip is flush with the soil surface. ‘Sturon’ and ‘Radar’ are reliable overwintering varieties.
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Broad Beans
Sow hardy overwintering varieties (‘Aquadulce Claudia’ is the classic choice) in October–November for the earliest possible harvest the following May–June. Autumn-sown broad beans develop deep roots over winter and come away strongly in spring, beating pests and producing earlier crops than spring sowings. Sow 5cm deep and 20cm apart, or in a drill.
Bare-Root Roses and Perennials
Bare-root planting is one of the best-kept secrets of experienced gardeners. When deciduous plants drop their leaves in autumn and go dormant, they can be lifted, transported, and replanted without roots being confined to a container. This significantly reduces the price and — counterintuitively — improves establishment compared to container-grown plants.
Bare-root roses are available from reputable nurseries from October through February. The range of varieties is far wider than at any garden centre, and the prices are substantially lower. Plant immediately on receipt — if you can’t plant straight away, unwrap the roots and heel them into a sheltered corner of the garden with the roots covered in soil.
Many perennials — delphiniums, lupins, peonies, and agapanthus among them — are also available bare-root in autumn at significantly lower prices than container-grown plants. Plant promptly at the right depth and they will establish as effectively as any container-grown specimen.
Protecting New Plantings Through Winter
Most autumn plantings need minimal protection beyond what you’ve already provided, but a few measures make a significant difference to survival rates:
- Mulch: Apply a 5–8cm layer of bark chips or well-rotted compost over the root zone immediately after planting. This insulates roots against frost, retains moisture, and suppresses weeds. Keep mulch away from plant stems and trunks.
- Staking: Newly planted trees and large shrubs are vulnerable to wind-rock, which can break the fine new roots before they anchor properly. Stake with a single short stake on the windward side, attached loosely with a rubber tree tie that allows a small amount of flex — this encourages the stem to develop its own strength.
- Frost fleece: Recently planted tender or borderline-hardy subjects benefit from a fleece wrap during the first winter. Remove during mild spells to prevent moisture buildup and mould.
- Watering: Autumn rainfall usually handles irrigation, but check new plantings during any extended dry spell, even in winter. Newly planted trees and shrubs can still be stressed by drought even in cool temperatures.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it too late to plant bulbs in November?
For tulips, November is ideal — the cooler soil reduces disease risk. For daffodils and alliums, November plantings will still produce a reasonable display, though the bulbs may be slightly smaller. Even a late planting is far better than leaving bulbs unplanted in a shed or bag, where they will deteriorate rapidly.
Can I plant shrubs if the ground is frozen?
No — wait for a thaw. Planting into frozen soil damages fine roots and prevents proper establishment. If you have bare-root plants that arrive during a hard freeze, heel them into a container of moist compost in a frost-free shed or garage until the ground thaws.
What’s the difference between planting in autumn vs. spring for shrubs?
Autumn planting gives shrubs a root establishment period of several months before the growing season’s demands begin. Spring-planted shrubs often struggle through their first summer because the root system hasn’t had time to develop. Autumn planting consistently produces more resilient, better-established plants by the end of their first growing season.
Do I need to feed plants I’ve just planted in autumn?
No — don’t feed newly planted shrubs, trees, or perennials in autumn. Autumn feeding pushes soft growth that will be damaged by winter frosts. The time to begin feeding is spring, once growth resumes. Add organic matter to the planting hole (well-rotted compost or manure) but avoid inorganic fertilisers until the following growing season.
What vegetables can I still plant in November?
In November you can still plant garlic (through December), overwintering onion sets, broad bean seeds, and transplant hardy brassica seedlings. Under cloches or in a cold frame, you can plant winter lettuce and spinach. Bare-root fruit trees and soft fruit plants also go in from November through February.
Sources
- Royal Horticultural Society. When and How to Plant Bulbs. RHS. www.rhs.org.uk/plants/bulbs/planting
- Royal Horticultural Society. Bare-root Plants. RHS. www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/bare-root
