What to Plant in Winter: Hardy Veg for the Cold Frame, Bare-Root Trees and Indoor Seed Planning

What to Plant in Winter: 15 Things to Grow Even in the Cold Months

Winter has a reputation for being a dead season in the garden, but experienced gardeners know better. While summer bedding and tender vegetables are off the table, there’s a surprising amount you can plant, sow, and establish between November and February. In fact, some of the most rewarding garden tasks happen in the coldest months — and getting ahead now pays dividends come spring.

This guide covers 15 categories of plants you can genuinely grow or establish in winter, from outdoor bare-root planting to indoor seed sowing and houseplant additions. We’ve also included a month-by-month planting calendar so you know exactly what to do and when.

Month-by-Month Winter Planting Calendar

Winter planting isn’t one single burst of activity — it’s a rolling programme from November through February, with different jobs taking priority each month. Use this calendar to plan your winter garden work.

November

November is the start of the bare-root season and your last chance for several autumn-into-winter tasks.

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• Plant: Bare-root roses, fruit trees, hedging, and soft fruit bushes. Garlic cloves (hardneck varieties like Lautrec Wight and Carcassonne Wight do especially well from November planting). Overwintering onion sets (Radar, Shakespeare, Electric Red).
• Sow: Broad beans outdoors (Aquadulce Claudia, The Sutton for small spaces). Winter salad under cloches (Winter Gem lettuce, corn salad, winter purslane).
• Establish: Hellebores, winter jasmine, and winter-flowering shrubs like Viburnum × bodnantense ‘Dawn’. Plant tulip bulbs (the last of the autumn bulb planting).

December

December is quieter but far from idle. Focus on bare-root planting whenever the ground isn’t frozen.

• Plant: Continue bare-root planting — roses, fruit trees (apple, pear, plum, damson), hedging (hawthorn, blackthorn, beech). Rhubarb crowns into well-manured soil.
• Sow: Nothing outdoors. Begin planning your seed order for January — chillies, aubergines, and pelargoniums all need early sowing.
• Maintain: Check stored garlic and onion sets for rot. Insulate outdoor pots with bubble wrap or fleece. Top up mulch around newly planted bare-root stock.

January

January marks the start of indoor seed sowing. The days are lengthening and there’s real momentum building.

• Plant: Bare-root planting continues when soil is workable. Plant shallot sets (Jermor, Longor, Golden Gourmet) in modules for a head start.
• Sow indoors: Chillies (Scotch Bonnet, Habanero, Cayenne), aubergines (Black Beauty, Moneymaker), pelargoniums, sweet peppers (California Wonder, Marconi Rosso), and begonias. All need 21–25°C to germinate.
• Sow under cover: Early peas (Meteor, Kelvedon Wonder) in lengths of guttering. Microgreens and sprouting seeds on a kitchen windowsill.

February

February is the bridge between winter and spring — activity accelerates rapidly.

• Plant: Last chance for bare-root roses and fruit trees before bud break. Jerusalem artichoke tubers. Asparagus crowns towards month’s end in milder areas.
• Sow indoors: Tomatoes (late February in heated propagator), leeks (Musselburgh, Blue Solaise), celery, celeriac, and annual flowers (cosmos, zinnia, sweet peas if not autumn-sown).
• Sow outdoors: Parsnips (Tender and True, Gladiator) if soil is workable — they need a long season. Early carrots (Nantes 2, Amsterdam Forcing) under fleece. Spinach and rocket under cloches. Broad beans if not sown in autumn.

1–4: Bare-Root Roses, Shrubs & Trees

December through February is prime time for bare-root planting. Bare-root plants are dormant plants lifted and sold without soil — they’re cheaper than container-grown equivalents, available in wider variety, and often establish better because their roots aren’t restricted by a pot.

1. Bare-Root Roses

Bare-root roses are available from November to March and offer the best selection of the year. Plant while dormant and they’ll establish quickly, flowering freely in their first summer.

Best varieties for winter planting: David Austin’s Gertrude Jekyll (deep pink, superb fragrance), Graham Thomas (rich yellow), and Munstead Wood (deep crimson) are all excellent choices. For climbers, try New Dawn (blush pink, repeat-flowering) or Compassion (salmon-apricot, intensely fragrant).

Dig a wide hole, spread the roots, plant to the correct depth (bud union at soil level), firm in well, and water. They need no mollycoddling — winter planting is the traditional method for good reason. Full rose care guide →

2. Bare-Root Fruit Trees

Apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees are available bare-root in winter at a fraction of the container-grown cost. Winter planting allows roots to establish before the demands of spring growth.

Recommended varieties: Apple — Braeburn, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Discovery (early cropper). Pear — Conference, Concorde, Doyenné du Comice. Plum — Victoria (self-fertile, reliable), Opal (early, sweet). Cherry — Stella (self-fertile), Morello (for cooking, tolerates north-facing walls).

Stake well against winter winds, water in thoroughly, and mulch generously with well-rotted compost or bark chips in a circle around the base — keeping mulch clear of the trunk.

3. Bare-Root Hedging

Hawthorn, blackthorn, beech, hornbeam, and field maple are all sold bare-root in winter and are significantly cheaper per metre than container-grown equivalents.

For a mixed native hedge: Combine hawthorn (60%), blackthorn (15%), field maple (10%), hazel (10%), and dog rose (5%). This mix provides year-round interest — blossom in spring, dense summer foliage, autumn berries, and winter structure. Birds will thank you by nesting season.

Plant in a staggered double row 30–45cm apart for the densest screen. Cut back by one-third after planting to encourage bushy growth from the base.

4. Bare-Root Soft Fruit

Gooseberries, currants (black, red, and white), and raspberries are all available bare-root from autumn. They’re incredibly easy to establish in winter and will be producing fruit by summer.

You might also find bare root plants: they helpful here.

Top picks: Blackcurrant — Ben Sarek (compact, heavy-cropping). Gooseberry — Invicta (mildew-resistant, large green berries). Raspberry — Glen Ample (thornless summer fruiting), Autumn Bliss (primocane, crops on first-year canes). Redcurrant — Jonkheer van Tets (early, heavy yields).

5–8: Hardy Winter Vegetables

5. Garlic

Garlic is the quintessential winter crop. Plant individual cloves from October through January into free-draining soil or large pots, with the tip just below the surface. The cold period actually improves bulb development — a process called vernalisation — triggering the clove to split into a full bulb.

Varieties to try: Hardneck types (Lautrec Wight, Carcassonne Wight, Music) produce fewer but larger cloves and are best for autumn/winter planting. Softneck types (Solent Wight, Picardy Wight) store longer but prefer spring planting in colder areas. For the most reliable results in heavy or wet soil, plant in modules and transplant in spring.

Harvest in early summer when the foliage starts to yellow. Cure in a dry, airy spot for two weeks before storage.

6. Overwintering Onions

Japanese overwintering onion sets are planted in October–November and mature earlier than spring-planted onions, giving you a crop by June — a full month ahead of the norm.

Best varieties: Radar (reliable, round, mild flavour), Shakespeare (brown-skinned, excellent keeper), Electric Red (deep red, semi-flat). Plant sets 10cm apart, just deep enough to be firm, in well-drained soil. Avoid freshly manured ground — it causes soft growth vulnerable to frost.

7. Winter Lettuce & Salad Leaves

Hardy lettuce varieties can be sown under cover (cold frame or cloche) through winter for slow but steady growth. They won’t romp away like summer lettuce but will provide welcome fresh leaves during the lean months.

Varieties for winter growing: Winter Gem (butterhead, very hardy), Arctic King (compact butterhead, tolerates hard frost), Valdor (large cos type, frost-resistant), and Winter Density (semi-cos, crisp and flavourful). Beyond lettuce, try lamb’s lettuce (corn salad), winter purslane (claytonia), and land cress — all naturally cold-tolerant and virtually maintenance-free under a cloche.

Sow thinly in trays or directly, thin to 15cm apart, and harvest outer leaves first to extend the cropping period.

8. Broad Beans

An autumn sowing of broad beans in October or November produces sturdy, well-rooted plants by spring that flower and crop weeks ahead of spring-sown plants.

Best varieties for autumn sowing: Aquadulce Claudia (the classic — tall, heavy-cropping, extremely hardy), The Sutton (dwarf, ideal for small gardens and exposed sites — reaches only 30cm), and Super Aquadulce (improved selection with longer pods). In colder areas, they may need a cloche over winter, but in mild areas they’ll simply sit there quietly, growing slowly and establishing a strong root system.

9–11: Indoor Seed Sowing (January Onwards)

Once January arrives, the seed-sowing season quietly begins indoors on windowsills and in heated propagators. These crops need a long growing season, making them ideal for early indoor starts.

9. Chillies

Chillies have a long growing season — the hottest varieties need 150+ days from seed to harvest. Sow in January on a warm (21°C+) windowsill or in a propagator, in small pots of seed compost.

Varieties by heat level: Mild — Padron, Hungarian Hot Wax. Medium — Cayenne, Jalapeño. Hot — Scotch Bonnet, Habanero. Superhot — Carolina Reaper, Trinidad Moruga Scorpion (start these in early January — they need every day they can get).

Keep warm and in the brightest spot available. They’re slow to germinate (2–4 weeks) but worth every bit of patience. Bottom heat from a propagator mat dramatically improves germination rates.

10. Pelargoniums

Pelargoniums (commonly called geraniums) sown in January will be bushy, flowering plants by summer. Sow at 21°C, cover with a propagator lid or cling film to retain moisture, and prick out when large enough to handle.

Recommended from seed: Horizon series (compact, weather-resistant, wide colour range), Maverick series (large flower heads, excellent for containers), and Tornado series (cascading habit, perfect for hanging baskets). They benefit enormously from the long growing season an early start provides.

11. Aubergines

Like chillies, aubergines need warmth and a long season. Sow January–February in a propagator at 21–25°C.

Varieties: Black Beauty (classic large-fruited), Moneymaker (reliable, prolific), Slim Jim (compact, ideal for pots), and Pinstripe (striking striped skin, ornamental and edible). They need consistent warmth and bright light — a south-facing windowsill supplemented with a grow light is ideal. Pot on as they grow and move outside only after all risk of frost has passed.

12–13: Houseplants to Add in Winter

Winter is actually an excellent time to add new houseplants to your home — particularly low-light varieties that thrive in the reduced natural light of winter months. Plant shops and garden centres are well-stocked, and the cooler temperatures during transit cause less stress to plants than summer heat.

12. Snake Plants

Snake plants are among the best choices for winter conditions. They tolerate low light, infrequent watering, and the dry air caused by central heating. They’re also incredibly easy to maintain through winter when many other houseplants struggle. Snake plant care guide →

13. ZZ Plants

ZZ plants (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) are practically indestructible in winter indoor conditions. Their thick rhizomes store water, meaning they tolerate the neglect that winter busyness sometimes brings. They grow slowly but reliably even in low-light corners. ZZ plant care guide →

14–15: Winter-Flowering Plants

14. Hellebores

Hellebores are among the garden’s greatest winter treasures — deeply-nodding flowers in white, pink, purple, and near-black appearing from December through March.

Top varieties: Helleborus × hybridus (Lenten rose — the widest colour range), Helleborus niger (Christmas rose — pure white, flowers from December), and Helleborus foetidus (stinking hellebore — lime-green bells, evergreen, tolerates deep shade). For something special, the Harvington doubles and Wedding Party series offer fully double flowers in stunning colour mixes.

Plant bare-root or container-grown hellebores now into humus-rich, well-drained soil in partial shade. They’re long-lived, low-maintenance, and genuinely beautiful when everything else is bare and brown.

15. Winter Jasmine & Snowdrops

Winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) is a vigorous wall shrub producing bright yellow flowers on bare green stems from November to February — a real burst of colour on the bleakest days. Plant against a wall or fence in sun or partial shade. It flowers on the previous year’s growth, so prune immediately after flowering to encourage strong new shoots.

Snowdrops are best planted “in the green” (while still growing, after flowering) in late winter rather than as dry bulbs, but if you find them in the green at a plant sale or garden open day this month, plant immediately into cool, moist soil in dappled shade. Galanthus nivalis (common snowdrop) is the most reliable, but Galanthus elwesii (greater snowdrop) and Galanthus ‘S. Arnott’ (tall, honey-scented) are well worth seeking out.

Protection & Cold Frames: Extending What You Can Grow

The right protection can extend your winter planting options dramatically. Even simple, inexpensive structures make a meaningful difference to soil and air temperature — often enough to keep borderline-hardy crops alive and growing.

Cloches

A cloche is the simplest form of winter protection. Glass or polycarbonate cloches warm the soil by 2–4°C compared to open ground — enough to keep winter salads, early peas, and broad beans growing through freezing spells. Fleece cloches (hoops covered with horticultural fleece) are cheaper still and protect to around −3°C. Position over rows of winter lettuce, spinach, and broad beans to keep them productive.

Cold Frames

A cold frame is essentially a bottomless box with a transparent lid, placed directly on the soil. It creates a microclimate 5–8°C warmer than outside — warm enough for overwintering hardy salads, hardening off January-sown seedlings, and starting carrots and radishes weeks earlier than open ground allows.

Best practice: Face the frame south. Angle the lid to catch maximum winter sun. Open the lid on mild days to prevent overheating and fungal disease. Close it at night and during frost. Line the inside edges with bubble wrap for extra insulation during the coldest weeks.

Fleece & Bubble Wrap

Horticultural fleece draped over plants provides 1–2°C of frost protection — often the difference between survival and loss for borderline crops. Double-layer fleece gives 3–4°C. Use it over broad beans, garlic, and overwintering onions during severe cold snaps.

Bubble wrap is invaluable for insulating containers. Wrap pots containing bare-root soft fruit, potted fruit trees, or tender perennials to prevent root damage. Roots in pots freeze faster and harder than those in open ground — wrapping with bubble wrap reduces this risk significantly.

Heated Propagators

For indoor seed sowing in January and February, a heated propagator is a genuine game-changer. Basic models with a heated base and clear lid cost £20–35 and maintain a steady 18–22°C — perfect for germinating chillies, aubergines, pelargoniums, and peppers. Without one, germination on a cold windowsill can be patchy and painfully slow. If budget is tight, a heat mat placed under seed trays achieves similar results.

What NOT to Plant in Winter

It’s worth being clear about what to avoid:

• Tender bedding plants — petunias, lobelias, busy lizzies — wait until after the last frost in May
• Tender vegetables — tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, French beans — sow these from March indoors at the earliest
• Tropical plants — don’t plant cannas, dahlias, or bananas outdoors until late spring
• Most perennials from plugs or pots — they’ll sit in cold, wet soil and often rot; wait for spring

The general rule: if it’s frost-tender, wait. If it’s hardy or dormant, winter planting is fine and often preferable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I really plant bare-root plants in January?

Yes — January is perfectly fine for bare-root planting as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid. If it is frozen, heel the plants into a sheltered spot or keep them in a cool garage with their roots wrapped in damp hessian until the ground thaws. Once planted, they’ll establish well before spring growth begins.

What can I sow outdoors in January?

Very little sowing happens outdoors in January in the UK due to cold temperatures. Broad beans sown in autumn are already in the ground. You can sow winter salad under a cloche. Save outdoor sowing for February at the earliest (early peas, spinach), or March for most vegetables.

Do I need a heated propagator for winter seed sowing?

For chillies and aubergines, a heated propagator (or a warm airing cupboard) makes a real difference — they need 21–25°C to germinate well. A windowsill alone is often too cold in January. Once germinated, move them to the brightest windowsill available. For hardier seeds like broad beans or winter salads, no heat is needed.

Is winter a good time to buy houseplants?

Yes, especially low-light varieties. Garden centres are well-stocked, prices are often reasonable, and the plants have been grown under artificial lights anyway so the transition to your home is less of a shock than summer plants moved indoors. Focus on low-light, low-humidity-tolerant species for best winter results.

How do I protect winter vegetables from heavy frost?

Cloches, horticultural fleece, and cold frames are your best defences. For garlic and overwintering onions, a double layer of fleece during hard frost (below −5°C) is usually sufficient. For winter salads, a cold frame or cloche keeps them growing steadily. Broad beans are surprisingly tough — they’ll survive short periods down to −7°C without protection, but a cloche improves growth rate. The biggest winter killer isn’t actually cold — it’s waterlogging, so ensure drainage is good.

Can I start tomato seeds in January?

It’s generally too early. Tomatoes germinate quickly and grow fast — starting in January means tall, leggy seedlings with nowhere to go for months. Late February to mid-March is ideal for most areas, giving you strong plants ready to go outside or into a greenhouse after the last frost. The exception is if you have a heated greenhouse where they can grow on without interruption.

References

1. Royal Horticultural Society. What to Do in the Garden in Winter. RHS.
2. Royal Horticultural Society. Bare Root Plants. RHS.
3. Royal Horticultural Society. Cold Frames. RHS.
4. Gardeners’ World. What to Sow and Grow in January. BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine.