Design a Pet-Safe Backyard: 7 Layout Zones, ASPCA-Verified Plants, and the Fencing Mistakes Most Guides Skip

Why Most Pet-Friendly Backyard Advice Leaves Your Animals at Risk

Sago palm is ranked by the ASPCA as one of the most poisonous plants to dogs in North America — it causes liver failure and death within 24 hours of ingestion. It is also a bestselling ornamental at garden centers from Zone 8 through Zone 11, where it thrives as a patio accent or foundation shrub. The problem isn’t that pet owners are careless. The problem is that most pet-friendly backyard guides hand you a short list of obvious plants to avoid, then leave the actual design work to you.

This guide takes a different approach. Instead of tips, it gives you a blueprint: seven functional zones mapped to your yard size and USDA hardiness zone, ASPCA-verified plant data, specific fencing heights by dog breed size, and surface temperature warnings that competitors skip entirely. Whether you’re starting from scratch or retrofitting an existing yard, the framework here works at every scale — from a 400-square-foot city lot to a half-acre suburban property.

One note before you begin: if you suspect your pet has already ingested something toxic, call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. That number appears again at the end of this article. Keep it on your phone.

The 7-Zone Pet-Safe Backyard Blueprint

Every pet-friendly backyard design problem traces back to the same mistake: the yard is designed for humans who happen to own pets, rather than for pets who share space with humans. The 7-zone framework fixes that by assigning every square foot of outdoor space a specific function based on how dogs and cats actually use the yard.

The seven zones are: the lounge zone (shared human-pet relaxation space), the run corridor (exercise loop), the dig pit (redirected digging behavior), the shade station, the water station, the dig-proof perimeter (the fence line and its underground and overhead extensions), and the plant buffer (the band of safe, structural vegetation between the perimeter and the activity zones). These aren’t rigid rooms with hard boundaries — in a small yard they overlap considerably — but understanding them as separate design problems produces a yard that is both functional and genuinely safe.

Zone 1: The Lounge Area

The lounge area is where your dog or cat will spend most of their time when they’re not actively running or exploring. Dogs instinctively position themselves with a sightline to doorways and gates — a behavioral trait called guardian placement — so this zone works best near the back door or along a wall, not buried in the middle of the yard.

Surface choice here matters more than anywhere else. Paw comfort drives whether dogs choose to rest on a surface or avoid it. Natural mulch (pine bark or cedar — never cocoa mulch, which contains the same toxin as chocolate) is soft, cool, and moisture-retaining, making it a reliable choice in Zones 3–8. In Zones 9–11, opt for crushed decomposed granite or compacted pea gravel, which drains quickly and doesn’t hold heat the way organic mulch can in sustained temperatures above 90°F.

Zone 2: The Run Corridor

Dogs that can’t run in the yard will find other ways to release energy — through fence-pacing, destructive digging, or constant barking. A looped run corridor, even in a modest yard, channels that energy productively. The loop doesn’t need to be wide: a 3–4-foot-wide track along the perimeter fence is sufficient for most breeds. Deeper-pile artificial turf is often specified for dog runs, but see the surface temperature warning in the Ground Surfaces section before committing to it in any climate above Zone 7.

For small yards under 500 square feet, the run corridor can double as the lounge edge — a perimeter path that circles the yard and transitions to a small central lounge area. In yards over 1,500 square feet, a dedicated oval or figure-eight loop gives larger dogs the burst-speed runs that genuinely tire them out.

Zone 3: The Dig Pit

Digging is not misbehavior in dogs — it’s a release valve for thermal regulation, boredom, and prey instinct. Fighting it leads to an arms race between you and your dog that you will almost certainly lose. Providing a designated dig pit redirects the behavior to a location that doesn’t compromise your fence line or your garden beds.

A functional dig pit is 4–6 feet long, 3–4 feet wide, and 12–18 inches deep. Fill it with a 50/50 mix of playground sand and topsoil — loose enough to be satisfying but stable enough not to collapse. Bury toys and chews just below the surface when you first introduce the pit to teach the association. Rotate the buried items weekly; a pit that yields nothing interesting gets ignored within two weeks. Cedar mulch or pine bark forms a clean boundary ring that signals “this is the digging zone” — consistent boundaries help dogs generalize the rule.

Zone 4: Shade Station — Sized for Your Climate

Dogs cannot cool themselves through sweating. They rely almost entirely on panting and conductive cooling (lying on cool surfaces), which means shade isn’t a comfort feature — it’s a safety requirement. According to Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, heatstroke sets in when a dog’s core temperature exceeds 105°F, and survivors of one heatstroke episode are significantly more vulnerable to future episodes [4].

The AVMA notes that hundreds of dogs die annually from heat exhaustion, and that overweight pets and short-nosed breeds (bulldogs, pugs, boxers, French bulldogs) face disproportionately elevated risk in warm weather [3]. A shade station should cover at minimum 25% of the primary activity zones in Zones 6–7, and at minimum 40–50% in Zones 8–11.

Shade structure options by yard type:

• Pergola or shade sail — best for Zones 6–9; provides consistent coverage in a fixed location; pair with a dense-leafed climbing vine for added cooling (confirm the vine species is non-toxic before planting)
• Deciduous shade tree — best long-term investment for yards over 1,000 square feet; provides summer shade and winter sun; choose a dog-safe species (see plant buffer section)
• Outdoor umbrella — adequate for small yards and Zone 3–5 regions where extreme heat is infrequent; move-able but must be anchored against wind

In Zones 9–11, shade alone is often insufficient during July–August peak heat. Pair shade structures with misting systems (commercially available drip-style kits) and a dedicated cool surface — poured concrete in deep shade stays 15–20°F cooler than ambient air temperature at peak sun.

Zone 5: Water Station

A single water bowl left in the sun in Zone 8 on an August afternoon reaches near-bathing temperature within an hour. Dogs reduce their water intake when it’s warm, which accelerates dehydration during the same conditions that cause heat stress. Automatic pet waterers with shaded placement solve this without requiring you to remember a refill — they stay connected to a garden hose line and refill as the bowl empties.

For active dogs in Zones 7–11, a splash pad or shallow wading pool (6–10 inches deep, 3–4 feet diameter) is a significant quality-of-life addition. Choose a pool with a smooth, non-slip interior and place it in morning-shade/afternoon-sun orientation to keep water temperature tolerable. Drain and refill the pool every 2–3 days to prevent algae; standing water in shallow containers becomes a mosquito habitat within 4–5 days in warm weather.

Zone 6: The Dig-Proof Perimeter — Fencing Done Right

The most common fencing failure in pet-friendly backyards is choosing height without addressing the two escape routes that height can’t prevent: digging under and climbing over. A 6-foot privacy fence means nothing to a determined Husky who has spotted a squirrel on the other side — and most escape attempts happen in the first 6–12 months in a new yard, before the novelty wears off.

Height by Dog Size

These are residential recommendations based on dog park industry standards and shelter practices; jump height varies significantly by individual dog and breed. Sight hounds (Greyhounds, Whippets), herding breeds (Border Collies, Australian Shepherds), and working breeds (Malinois, Huskies) consistently perform above the average for their weight class and need the upper end of these ranges.

The Three Perimeter Vulnerabilities

Digging under: The most reliable fix is a concrete apron — a 6-inch-wide, 12–18-inch-deep concrete strip poured flush with the fence base along the entire perimeter. For budget-conscious installations, burying 12–18 inches of L-shaped hardware cloth (bent outward into the yard) achieves 85–90% of the same deterrence at a fraction of the cost, per Best Friends Animal Society recommendations [5].

Climbing: Solid privacy fences without horizontal boards are significantly harder to climb than chain-link, since there are no footholds. For existing fences where climbing is an issue, coyote rollers — rotating cylinders that attach to the fence top — prevent the grip needed to pull over. An inward-angled extension (12 inches of fencing angled 45° toward the yard interior) works equally well [5].

Gate gaps: The single most overlooked fencing failure. A dog that cannot climb or dig its way out will still push through a gate with a loose latch, a 2-inch gap at the bottom, or a hinge that permits backward swing. Double-latching gates with spring closers, and installing a bottom sweep that reduces the gap to under an inch, addresses 90% of gate-related escapes.

Cat Containment: A Different Problem

Standard fencing provides near-zero containment for cats. A healthy adult cat can scale a 6-foot fence in under 3 seconds. Cat-specific systems — either purpose-built cat-proof fence kits with inward-rolling tops, or fully enclosed catios — are the only reliable options if you need outdoor access without free-roam risk. Catios are screened or mesh-enclosed structures attached to or adjacent to the house, ranging from small window-box units to walk-in enclosures large enough for multiple cats. They provide outdoor air, stimulation, and supervised bird-watching without any escape risk — for cats that are used to indoor life, a catio is typically a better solution than cat-proofing a full yard.

Ground Surfaces: The Data Most Guides Skip

The ground surface in a pet yard does more design work than any other single element: it determines paw health, drainage, cleanliness, heat exposure, and how quickly the yard recovers from heavy use. The right choice varies by climate zone and by how your animals actually use the space.

Natural Grass: The Zone-Matched Picks

Grass remains the most forgiving surface for dog pads, but not all grass species tolerate the traffic and urine load of a dog yard equally. Research from UC Davis found that tall fescue tolerates pet urine burn better than other cool-season grasses — a meaningful advantage in Zones 5–7, where urine salts concentrate in clay soils over winter. In Zones 8–10, Bermudagrass is the most traffic-resistant warm-season option, self-repairing from root runners within 2–3 weeks of heavy use. Zoysia works well in the transition zone (Zones 6–8) where neither cool-season nor warm-season grass thrives alone.

The Artificial Turf Temperature Problem

Artificial turf is heavily marketed for pet yards as durable, easy-to-clean, and urine-proof. All of those claims are accurate. What most product pages omit is the surface temperature data: on a 90°F day, artificial turf can reach 150–170°F — in controlled university trials, it has tested hotter than asphalt under identical conditions [7]. Dog paw pads can begin to blister at surface temperatures above 120°F (49°C), with full-thickness burns occurring within 30–60 seconds above 125°F.

This doesn’t rule out artificial turf in pet yards, but it does require a shade mandate. Artificial turf installed under a shade structure that prevents direct sun contact from 10 a.m.–4 p.m. stays within safe temperature ranges even in Zone 9. Artificial turf in full sun in any zone above Zone 7 is a documented paw burn hazard during summer afternoons. The AVMA specifically recommends avoiding hot surfaces that can burn pet paws [3].

Pet-Safe Alternatives Worth Considering

• White clover: Non-toxic, nitrogen-fixing (reduces fertilizer need), handles heavy paw traffic, self-repairs from seed — one of the most underrated pet-yard surfaces available. Not suitable for muddy Zones or areas with chronic standing water.
• Creeping thyme: Pet-safe, releases a pleasant fragrance underfoot, handles moderate traffic, stays under 2 inches — excellent for path edges and lounge borders. Full details in our creeping thyme lawn guide.
• Pea gravel (rounded): Excellent drainage, stays cooler than artificial turf, urine drains through, easy to scoop — works well for run corridors and dig pit surrounds. Avoid angular/crushed gravel, which cuts paw pads.
• Decomposed granite (compacted): Firm surface, drains well, cools faster than pavement after sun exposure, low cost in the Southwest (Zone 8–11) where it occurs naturally. Moist DG firms into a stable surface that cleans easily.

For a full comparison of lawn alternatives specifically tested for dog traffic, see our lawn alternatives for dogs guide.

The Toxic Plant Diagnostic Table

The ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control database lists over 400 toxic plants. The ones in the table below are the 10 most commonly found in US backyards and garden centers — plants that homeowners install without knowing the risk, often because they appear on lists of “beautiful, easy-care landscaping plants.” The severity ratings reflect the most serious outcome from significant ingestion, not necessarily from casual contact.

If you currently have any of these in your yard, don’t panic — most require active ingestion to cause harm. Prioritize removal or physical exclusion (raised beds, dense border planting, physical barriers) based on severity. See the full ASPCA lists for dogs and cats for comprehensive coverage.

For a deeper dive into the full list of backyard plants dangerous to dogs and cats, see our dedicated guides: plants toxic to dogs and plants toxic to cats.

Zone 7: Building the Pet-Safe Plant Buffer

Zone 7 is the planting band that runs between the perimeter fence (Zone 6) and the interior activity zones. It serves three purposes: it creates visual softness, it provides wind buffering and microclimate cooling, and it keeps your primary plantings physically separated from the run corridor where most digging and chewing happens. The rule for Zone 7 is simple: every species in this band must be confirmed non-toxic to your specific pets (dogs and cats have different sensitivities), structurally durable enough to survive contact with a running dog, and appropriate for your USDA hardiness zone.

Structural Plants by Zone

• Zones 4–8: Emerald Green Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd’) — dog-safe per ASPCA, 15 feet tall, 4 feet wide, deer and dog-paw pressure tolerant [6]
• Zones 5–9: Knock Out Rose series — ASPCA-confirmed non-toxic, dense growth habit that discourages dogs from pushing through; flowers June through frost
• Zones 5–9: Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) — non-toxic, pollinator magnet, drought-tolerant once established; use in mid-border behind structural hedge
• Zones 7–9: Asian Osmanthus — non-toxic, dense evergreen, fragrant autumn blooms; withstands dogs leaning against it [6]
• Zones 7–11: Lantana substitute — use Verbena bonariensis (non-toxic, attracts butterflies, Zone 7–11) in place of the toxic Lantana that commonly appears in warm-climate foundation plantings

Ground Cover Layer

Under and around structural plants, a ground-cover layer that withstands paw traffic keeps the soil from compacting and prevents erosion in the high-traffic areas near the run corridor. Native plant options verified non-toxic include purple coneflower (groundcover form), black-eyed Susan, and sunflower annuals. For a full list of native plants that are both ASPCA-verified and matched to USDA zone, see our native plants for pet yards guide.

USDA Zone Adaptations: Where Climate Changes the Calculus

The single biggest gap in competitor pet-yard guides is treating backyard design as geography-neutral. A pet owner in Minneapolis (Zone 5a) and a pet owner in Phoenix (Zone 9b) share the same goals — safe fencing, non-toxic plants, adequate shade — but almost every implementation detail is different. Here’s how the 7-zone framework adapts across the major US climate bands.

Zones 3–5: Cold-Climate Priorities

Frozen ground eliminates the dig-escape threat for 4–5 months annually, but introduces a different problem: dog paws in contact with ice-melt chemicals (sodium chloride and calcium chloride) cause chemical burns and systemic toxicity if licked. Use only pet-safe ice melt (urea- or magnesium-chloride-based formulations) on any surface your dog crosses. Water stations require either a heated pet bowl or an automatic waterer with a freeze-protection valve rated for overnight lows in your zone. Zone 5 dog pools need to be stored or drained by October to prevent liner damage from freeze-thaw cycling.

Plant buffer picks for Zones 3–5 lean toward cold-hardy evergreens: Arborvitae (Zones 4–8) and Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens, Zones 4–9, non-toxic) give year-round structure. Summer Cascade wisteria (discussed in detail in our zone-specific wisteria guides) is not appropriate for pet buffers — wisteria seeds are mildly toxic to dogs.

Zones 6–7: The Balanced Middle

These zones offer the widest design latitude. Standard fencing materials perform well through winter; most ground cover options establish without special treatment; the full range of structural plants in the table above are zone-appropriate. The primary design risk in Zones 6–7 is assuming the summer heat is mild enough to skip formal shade structures — peak summer temperatures in Zone 7 (Memphis, TN; Norfolk, VA; Oklahoma City, OK) regularly exceed 95°F, which is well into the danger range for brachycephalic breeds outdoors.

Zones 8–9: Heat is the Primary Design Driver

In these zones — covering most of the South, Southern California, and the Pacific Coast — shade coverage is the highest-priority design element, not fencing. A dog left outdoors in Phoenix, Tucson, or Houston in July without shade can develop heatstroke in under 30 minutes. Design mandates for Zones 8–9 include: minimum 40% shade coverage during 10 a.m.–4 p.m., no artificial turf without full shade coverage (the 150–170°F surface temperature problem is most acute in these zones [7]), and a constantly-refilling water source rather than a static bowl that heats up.

For drought-tolerant pet yard solutions specifically tuned to Zone 8–11, see our drought-tolerant pet yard guide.

Zones 10–11: Year-Round Shade, Frost-Free Risk Shift

In South Florida, Hawaii, and the lower Rio Grande Valley, frost is essentially absent — but the backyard hazard profile shifts significantly. Sago palm is ubiquitous in Zone 10–11 landscaping and represents the highest-probability toxic plant risk in these regions [2]. Fire ant mounds pose a direct threat to dogs that step on or near them (fire ants swarm and sting repeatedly). The shade mandate remains year-round; misting systems become near-essential for dogs over 40 pounds during June–September.

Chemical Hazards Beyond Plants

Plants get the attention, but the chemical hazards in a typical backyard are responsible for a significant share of ASPCA Poison Control calls. The following require the same planning discipline as plant placement.

Fertilizers That Attract Dogs

Bone meal, blood meal, bat guano, and fish meal fertilizers are high in organic nitrogen — and to a dog, they smell like food. Ingestion causes vomiting, diarrhea, and in large quantities, pancreatitis and tremors [1]. Never apply these to any area your dog accesses, and store bags in a locked shed or cabinet, not in an unlocked garage. After any granular fertilizer application, water the area thoroughly and keep dogs out until the product has fully absorbed — typically 24–48 hours per label directions.

Compost Bins

Decomposing organic material develops Penicillium and Aspergillus mold colonies that produce tremorgenic mycotoxins. A dog that raids a compost pile can show tremors and seizures within 30 minutes. The solution is structural: closed tumbler composters, a compost cage with a locking lid, or a compost area physically separated from dog access zones by a secondary fence panel [1].

Pesticides and Herbicides

Herbicide products containing 2,4-D and lawn insecticides with permethrin are the most common lawn-chemical toxicity triggers in dogs. The AVMA recommends following label exclusion periods strictly, which typically run 24–72 hours for liquid applications [3]. If you use a lawn service, ask them to flag treated areas and confirm the exclusion period before letting pets back on the lawn. Granular products require watering in — a dry granule on a paw can be licked off and concentrated at a level that liquid residue wouldn’t reach.

Mulch Safety

Cocoa bean mulch contains theobromine and caffeine — the same compounds that make chocolate toxic to dogs. Even small amounts can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and in sufficient quantity, tremors. Use pine bark, cedar, or cypress mulch instead; all three are non-toxic, readily available, and have better longevity in wet climates than cocoa mulch. For comprehensive mulch guidance, see our pet-safe mulch and soil amendments guide.

Cat-Specific Design: A Parallel Framework

Most pet-yard articles are written as if “pet” means “dog.” Cats have fundamentally different outdoor behavior patterns — vertical movement, boundary-testing, low-tolerance for being confined — and they require a parallel design track.

The Lily Emergency Warning

Before anything else: if you have cats, remove all true lilies (Lilium spp.) and daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) from your yard immediately. Not from the garden bed. From the yard. These plants cause acute kidney failure in cats from pollen contact alone — a cat that walks through a lily pollen drift and then grooms its paws can develop fatal kidney failure within 36 hours [2]. This is not a “large ingestion” risk. It is a contact risk. It has no safe threshold in cats.

Catios and Enclosed Spaces

A catio — an enclosed outdoor structure attached to or adjacent to the house — is the most reliable way to give cats supervised outdoor access without the risks of free-roam (traffic, predators, poisons). Basic window-box catios start at under $200 in kit form. Walk-in catios large enough for climbing structures, perches, and plant pots typically run $500–$2,000 depending on size. The interior of a catio should include: elevated perches (cats spend most of their time at height, not at ground level), a small patch of cat grass or catnip, and one sheltered hidey-box that lets the cat observe without being observed. All materials should be weather-rated for your zone — untreated wood rots within 2–3 years in Zones 7–11.

Vertical Design for Free-Roaming Cats

If your cat has free access to an enclosed yard, vertical design elements — elevated perches, cat highways along fence tops, climbing structures — reduce the risk of encounters with dogs at ground level and provide the elevated sightlines cats require for security. Cat-safe climbing plants (confirmed non-toxic via ASPCA cat list) that can grow along fencing include Passiflora incarnata (native passionflower, Zones 6–10, non-toxic to cats) and Lonicera sempervirens (coral honeysuckle, Zones 4–9, non-toxic to cats).

For container-based solutions that work in small spaces and patios, see our container gardening for pet owners guide.

Putting the Blueprint Together: A Yard-Size Summary

The 7-zone framework scales differently depending on your available space. Here’s how to prioritize if you’re working within constraints:

Key Takeaways

• The 7-zone framework — lounge, run, dig pit, shade, water, dig-proof perimeter, plant buffer — gives every square foot of your backyard a specific safety and function assignment rather than leaving design to chance.
• Fencing height should be matched to your specific dog’s size and breed energy level: small dogs need 4–5 feet, large working breeds often need 6–8 feet with anti-climb extensions and dig barriers underground.
• Artificial turf in full sun can reach 150–170°F on a 90°F day — hot enough to cause paw burns within 60 seconds. It’s not a hazard-free surface in Zones 8 and above unless shaded during peak sun hours.
• For cats, the lily removal rule overrides all other planting decisions. All true lilies and daylilies must leave the yard entirely — contact with pollen alone can cause fatal kidney failure.
• USDA zone changes the design calculus more than yard size: heat management dominates in Zones 8–11; ice-melt chemical safety and water heater maintenance dominate in Zones 3–5.
• Emergency contact: ASPCA Animal Poison Control — (888) 426-4435. Available 24/7.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most dangerous backyard plant for dogs in the US?

The ASPCA ranks sago palm (Cycas revoluta) among the most acutely lethal plants for dogs in North America. Ingestion of any part — particularly the seeds — causes severe liver failure, with mortality rates over 50% even with immediate veterinary treatment. It’s commonly sold as a landscape ornamental in Zones 8–11. If you’re in those zones and have dogs, check your foundation plantings.

Can I use lawn chemicals in a pet yard?

Yes, but timing matters. Most granular fertilizers and liquid herbicides require a 24–72-hour exclusion period (per label directions) before pets can safely access treated areas. Products containing bone meal, blood meal, or fish meal should be avoided entirely in pet yards regardless of exclusion period — dogs are attracted to the smell and will dig for the source. The AVMA recommends notifying lawn services of pet presence and confirming specific re-entry times before releasing pets to the treated area [3].

How do I stop my dog from digging under the fence without pouring concrete?

The most cost-effective non-concrete solution is L-shaped hardware cloth: bury a 24-inch-wide strip of galvanized welded wire mesh with the bottom 12 inches bent outward (horizontally into the yard) at the fence line. When a dog digs straight down and hits the horizontal barrier, the instinct is to back up rather than dig sideways to get around it. Install it 2–4 inches below grade so mowing isn’t affected. This solution typically costs $1–$2 per linear foot in materials versus $8–$15 per linear foot for a concrete apron.

Ready to put this framework into action on a specific budget? Our pet-friendly backyard budget guide gives you three complete, buildable plans — $500, $1,500, and $3,000 — with full materials lists and ASPCA-verified safety recommendations for each tier.

Sources

• [1] ASPCA. “Tips for a Pet-Safe Yard and Garden.” https://www.aspca.org/news/tips-pet-safe-yard-and-garden
• [2] ASPCA. “Top 10 Toxic Plants for Pets: What to Look Out For.” https://www.aspca.org/news/top-10-toxic-plants-pets-what-look-out
• [3] American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA). “Warm Weather Pet Safety.” https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/pet-owners/petcare/warm-weather-pet-safety
• [4] Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine. “Heatstroke: A Medical Emergency.” https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/riney-canine-health-center/canine-health-information/heatstroke-medical-emergency
• [5] Best Friends Animal Society. “Dog-Proof Fence Ideas and Options.” https://bestfriends.org/pet-care-resources/dog-proof-fence-ideas-and-options
• [6] Monrovia. “Ask an Expert: How to Create a Dog-Friendly Backyard Landscape.” monrovia.com/be-inspired/create-a-dog-friendly-backyard-landscape.html
• [7] LawnStarter. “11 Dog-Friendly Landscaping Tips for Your Backyard.” https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/landscaping/dog-friendly-landscape-backyard-ideas/
• ASPCA Animal Poison Control: Dogs — aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/dogs-plant-list
• ASPCA Animal Poison Control: Cats — aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/cats-plant-list
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