25 Common Garden Weeds: How to Identify Them by Leaf Shape, Stem, and Root — Before They Spread

Most gardeners don’t spot weeds until they’ve already seeded. You see something unfamiliar growing between your tomatoes, pull it, and three weeks later the same plant carpets that whole row. The gap isn’t motivation — it’s identification. You can’t act confidently on a plant you can’t name.

Most identification systems require photos. But photos need a charged phone, good lighting, and a clear view of the whole plant — none of which you have when you’re kneeling in a raised bed in July. This guide gives you a 3-part field system: leaf shape, stem characteristics, and root structure. These three features, taken together, identify most garden weeds without pulling out a device.

The 25 weeds below are the ones most commonly found in US home gardens, organized by growth type — annual grasses, perennial grasses, sedges, annual broadleaves, and perennial broadleaves. Each entry covers the visual ID markers, the specific damage mechanism you’re dealing with, and what actually works for removal. At the end, a diagnostic table maps visible symptoms back to likely culprits. All weed profiles draw on UC IPM, Penn State Extension, UMN Extension, Iowa State Extension, NC State Extension, and UF/IFAS research.

The 3-Part Field Test: Leaf, Stem, and Root

Most weed guides focus on flowers. Flowers are the worst diagnostic tool for garden weeds — they’re only present a few weeks, and you want to act long before any plant blooms.

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Instead, check these three features at any growth stage:

Leaf shape and texture: Broadleaf weeds have wider leaves with branching veins; grassy weeds have narrow leaves with parallel veins. Within broadleaves, shape narrows the field fast — triangular, heart-shaped, deeply lobed, or round with scalloped edges each point to a different family. Texture is just as useful: hairy, waxy, mealy white-powdery, or succulent-fleshy surfaces are reliable markers that don’t change across the season.

Stem cross-section: Round stems are the default. Square stems mean mint family — creeping Charlie is the most common example. Triangular stems mean sedge (the field rule: “sedges have edges”). Hollow stems with prominent nodes mean grass. Stems that exude milky white sap when broken mean spurge family — wear gloves before handling.

Root structure: Digging up the root answers the most important question: annual or perennial? A shallow fibrous root ball = annual; pull it and you’re done. A deep taproot, spreading rhizomes, or a tuber network = perennial; removing just the top growth is cosmetic. The entries below give root depth and structure for every weed so you know what you’re dealing with before you start digging.

How Weeds Actually Harm Your Garden Plants

“Weeds compete with plants” is accurate but vague. The specific damage mechanism determines how fast you need to act — and what to do about it.

Smothering: Prostrate annual weeds — purslane, spotted spurge, chickweed, crabgrass — form low mats that block light from seedlings and vegetable transplants. Even a 4-inch mat from a dense crabgrass colony shades out germinating seeds completely. Smothering weeds need to be removed early, before the mat closes over.

Vine twisting: Field bindweed entwines around stems, redirecting growth and blocking airflow through the canopy. A single plant can spread more than 10 feet laterally in one growing season. The vine habit means damage happens before you notice the plant has taken hold. Once it reaches your tomato cage, extraction is difficult without snapping branches.

Competition-induced stress: Beyond direct resource depletion, weeds alter the light spectrum your garden plants receive. Weed canopy shifts the ratio of red to far-red light reaching leaves below, triggering a shade-avoidance stress response that reduces growth even when water and nutrients are adequate — a mechanism documented in recent weed science research. Early-season weed pressure during the first four to six weeks after transplanting causes disproportionate, sometimes irreversible setbacks in vegetable growth.

Disease harboring: Specific weeds serve as year-round reservoirs for plant viruses. Common lambsquarters and Palmer amaranth host Tobacco rattle virus, which infects beets and potatoes. Jimsonweed harbors both Tomato mosaic virus and Potato virus X, posing a direct infection risk to peppers and tomatoes in adjacent beds. Removing these weeds from garden edges is disease management, not just tidiness.

Annual Grassy Weeds

Annual grasses germinate from seed, grow through summer, set seed, and die. Remove them before the seed head forms and you break the cycle completely.

1. Large Crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis)

Leaf: Light green, 1/4 to 1/3 inch wide; both blade surfaces and the leaf sheath covered in soft hairs — hold it to the light and you’ll see them clearly. This hairiness is what separates large crabgrass from its smooth relative.

Stem: Round; prostrate and branching from a central crown, tillers radiating outward like crab legs — hence the name. Roots form at stem nodes that contact moist soil.

Root: Shallow fibrous root ball with nodal anchors. Pull while small; nodes grip the soil quickly.

Seed head: Three to eleven fingerlike spikes, two to five inches long. One plant produces more than 100,000 seeds; seeds remain viable in soil for at least three years.

Damage: Smothers low-growing ground covers and vegetable seedlings by forming dense mats in bare soil between established plants. Germinates when soil reaches 55–60°F in spring.

2. Smooth Crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum)

Leaf: Similar width to large crabgrass but nearly hairless; only sparse hairs at the base of the leaf blade on the upper surface. The smooth surface is the definitive field difference between the two species.

Stem: Round, prostrate; can produce viable seeds at mowing heights as low as half an inch, making it a persistent problem in maintained garden edges.

Root: Shallow; nodes root on contact with moist soil.

Seed head: Five to seven shorter spikes, half an inch to two and a half inches long, versus the longer spikes of large crabgrass.

Damage: Same smothering and seeding behavior as large crabgrass; the hairless surface is the fastest field identifier.

3. Barnyardgrass (Echinochloa crus-galli)

Leaf: Wide — up to an inch across — smooth, bright green; often purple-tinged at the base in young plants.

Stem: Flattened, especially near the base. Flatten most grass stems between your fingers and they resist; barnyardgrass stems compress noticeably. This flattened base is a reliable ID marker.

Root: Fibrous, moderately shallow; pull while young. Mature plants anchor firmly in warm, moist soil.

Seed head: Dense, branched panicle; often dark purple-red. Appears quickly in hot, wet conditions.

Damage: Fast-growing in vegetable gardens and raised beds during hot, wet summers; overtops transplants in poor stands quickly. A warm-season annual, so it appears after the cool-season chickweed and bittercress have already finished.

4. Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua)

Leaf: Pale green, narrow; look at the leaf tip — it has a distinctive boat shape, like the bow of a canoe. Pinch the tip gently and you’ll feel the hollow keel. This boat-tipped leaf is annual bluegrass’s most reliable marker.

Stem: Round, slightly compressed at the base; whitish ring-like membranous ligule visible at the leaf-stem junction.

Root: Shallow, fibrous. Germinates in fall and overwinters as a rosette — opposite timing from summer annuals like crabgrass, so preemergent application timing is completely different.

Seed head: Small, pyramid-shaped panicle; whitish-green; appears early spring before most gardeners are weeding.

Damage: Invades cool-season vegetable beds and thin ground cover patches during autumn; forms dense mats in early spring before desirable plants break dormancy.

Perennial Grassy Weeds

5. Quackgrass (Elymus repens)

Leaf: Blue-green, 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide; look at the collar region where the leaf blade meets the sheath — quackgrass has clasping auricles, claw-like appendages that wrap around the stem like a handshake. No other common garden grass has this feature. Once you’ve seen it, you can’t miss it.

Stem: Round; hollow with prominent nodes spaced a few inches apart along the length.

Root: Pale, creeping rhizomes with sharp-pointed tips that can extend up to 11 feet laterally. The sharp tips penetrate mulch layers, crack in pavement, and in potatoes — spearing straight through tubers. Tillage spreads rhizome fragments and makes the infestation worse, not better.

Damage: Allelopathic — releases chemicals that researchers believe inhibit the growth of nearby garden plants, though full field confirmation is still ongoing. The more immediate problem is rhizome spread: a single plant established at the garden edge can colonize a four-foot-wide bed in a single season. Smother with thick mulch, or excavate the entire rhizome network by hand in loose soil.

Sedges: The Weeds That Fool You

6. Yellow Nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus)

Leaf: Bright yellow-green — distinctly yellower than most lawn grasses — 0.1 to 0.35 inch wide, shiny, with a prominent midrib. Leaves emerge from the stem in sets of three. Grasses emerge in sets of two. Count the leaves at the base to confirm.

Stem: Pinch it: three flat sides. This triangular cross-section is definitive. Round-stem = grass. Triangular = nutsedge. The field rule “sedges have edges” refers to exactly this.

Root/Tuber: A chain of rhizomes ending in nutlet-sized tubers, about half an inch long, that form within two inches of the soil surface. One tuber produced 1,900 shoots and 6,900 daughter tubers in a single Minnesota growing season — making delay extremely costly. Removal by pulling top growth leaves the tuber network intact and stimulates new shoot production from dormant buds.

Damage: Competes aggressively for moisture and nutrients; allelopathic effects against corn, soybean, and sweet potato have been documented in greenhouse trials. Especially destructive in vegetable gardens and beds with consistent irrigation, which promotes tuber spread. Solarization or smothering with thick cardboard plus mulch over a full season is more effective than hand-pulling alone.

Annual Broadleaf Weeds

Annual broadleaves complete their life cycle in one year. The goal is to remove them before seed set. For winter annuals (chickweed, bittercress, annual bluegrass), that window is spring; for summer annuals (purslane, pigweed, ragweed), it’s midsummer.

7. Common Chickweed (Stellaria media)

Leaf: Small, oval, bright green, smooth; opposite pairs along the stem.

Stem: A single line of hairs running along one side of the stem — rotate the stem between your fingers and watch the hair line alternate sides at each node. This one-sided hair line is chickweed’s most reliable identifier and sets it apart from similar small-leaved weeds.

Root: Shallow, fibrous taproot; hand-pulls cleanly after rain or irrigation.

Damage: Winter annual that germinates in cool fall weather and forms a dense smothering carpet over early spring vegetables and bare soil before warm-weather plants can establish. Pull before flowers appear — seeds set quickly and abundantly.

8. Hairy Bittercress (Cardamine hirsuta)

Leaf: Pinnately compound — small, rounded leaflets arranged along a central leafstalk, largest at the tip. The compound leaf arrangement is unusual for small spring weeds and narrows ID quickly.

Stem: Slender, upright, usually four to six inches tall at flowering.

Root: Shallow, fibrous; pull before the narrow seed pods develop. Once pods mature, touching the plant fires seeds several inches in all directions by explosive ballistic dispersal. A brushed mature plant spreads hundreds of seeds instantly across a planted bed.

Damage: Winter annual with explosive seeding — one of the few weeds where the act of removal, done too late, makes things substantially worse. Target it in early spring before pods elongate.

9. Common Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)

Leaf: Thick, succulent, spoon-shaped; smooth and fleshy — the texture is unmistakable. No other common garden weed has leaves this noticeably succulent.

Stem: Reddish, succulent, sprawling; stems re-root readily at nodes when left lying on moist soil. Don’t leave pulled plants on the bed surface.

Root: Shallow central taproot with fibrous laterals; pulls cleanly in moist soil.

Damage: Drought-tolerant smotherer — thrives in the hot, dry gaps between waterings when garden plants are water-stressed. Young purslane is edible (mild flavor, nutritious, good in salads), so weeding early earns you something.

10. Common Lambsquarters (Chenopodium album)

Leaf: Triangular to diamond-shaped; powdery white mealy coating on leaf undersides and young leaves — rub it with your finger and it comes off like chalk dust. That distinctive coating is the fastest ID marker at any growth stage.

Stem: Upright, branching; often streaked red-purple and green; grows one to six feet tall in fertile soil.

Root: Single taproot; remove before seed set — one plant produces thousands of seeds.

Damage: Acts as a reservoir for Tobacco rattle virus, which infects beets and potato crops. Its presence near the vegetable garden is a disease-management issue, not just an aesthetic one. Remove it from garden edges, not just the bed interior.

11. Redroot Pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus)

Leaf: Oval to diamond-shaped, two to four inches long; hairy undersides; slightly wavy leaf margins.

Stem: Rough and hairy; grows upright one to four feet; dig up the root to confirm — the taproot is distinctly red or pink at the top, which gives this species its common name.

Root: Coarse, clearly red-pink taproot that deepens with age. The root color is the fastest confirmatory ID.

Damage: Aggressive resource competitor; produces up to 100,000 seeds per plant. Remove before the bristly, upright seed head forms.

12. Spotted Spurge (Euphorbia maculata)

Leaf: Small (1/8 to 1/2 inch), dark green, opposite pairs; frequently has a reddish spot in the center of each leaf along the center vein — though this mark is absent on some specimens.

Stem: Pink to maroon, hairy, prostrate radiating mat. Break a stem: white milky sap oozes out. Handle with gloves — the sap is an eye and skin irritant.

Root: Central taproot extending over 24 inches deep. Hand-pulling leaves the root intact unless soil is very loose; use a trowel.

Damage: Produces seed within five weeks of germination; acts as an intermediate host for fungal diseases of cultivated crops; forms dense mats that shade low-growing ground covers and vegetable seedlings.

13. Yellow Wood Sorrel (Oxalis stricta)

Leaf: Three heart-shaped leaflets arranged like a shamrock or clover — but distinctly heart-shaped, not rounded. The leaflets fold downward at night and on cloudy days, which can make identification easier in even light.

Stem: Slender, upright to spreading; fine-textured plant overall.

Root: Thin taproot with fine laterals. Behaves as an annual in cool climates, perennial in warm ones.

Damage: Seeds explosively from narrow, finger-shaped pods that twist open when mature. Pulling a plant near your vegetables after pods have set scatters seeds more effectively than leaving it. Cut at the crown instead of pulling once pods appear.

14. Wild Mustard (Sinapis arvensis)

Leaf: Coarsely toothed or lobed; lower leaves larger with small ear-like lobes clasping the stem at the base. Crush any leaf and you’ll smell the sharp, distinct mustard-oil aroma immediately — reliable in all weather.

Stem: Hairy, upright, one to three feet tall; branching toward the top.

Root: Taproot; moderately deep.

Damage: A brassica-family weed that hosts Plasmodiophora brassicae — the soilborne pathogen that causes clubroot in cabbages, broccoli, kale, and Brussels sprouts. Its presence near the vegetable garden is a soil health issue. Remove before it establishes and flowers.

15. Common Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia)

Leaf: Deeply lobed, fernlike or carrot-top in appearance; soft-hairy; bright green on both surfaces.

Stem: Hairy, branching; grows one to five feet; erect.

Root: Taproot; moderate depth. Pulls easily when young in loose soil.

Damage: A primary US allergen — a single plant produces up to a billion pollen grains per season. For vegetable gardeners, the more immediate problem is competitive water use in late summer when fruiting crops are loading. Remove before the tiny green flowers appear, which happens much earlier than most gardeners expect.

16. Jimsonweed (Datura stramonium)

Leaf: Large, coarsely and irregularly toothed; smooth, dark green; a distinctly musty, unpleasant smell when crushed — this odor is the fastest ID, recognizable in any weather or season.

Stem: Thick, smooth, hollow at nodes; grows two to five feet tall; branching habit.

Root: Coarse, branching taproot.

Damage: All parts are toxic (tropane alkaloids) — keep children and pets away. More critically: jimsonweed is a documented reservoir for Tomato mosaic virus and Potato virus X. A single jimsonweed plant within 20 feet of your tomato or pepper bed is a disease risk that justifies immediate removal, not just eventual weeding.

17. Common Mallow (Malva neglecta)

Leaf: Round to kidney-shaped with five to seven shallow lobes and wavy margins; palmate veining radiates from the center like fingers from a palm.

Stem: Low-spreading to semi-upright; hairy; grows along the soil surface and outward from a central taproot.

Root: Deep, tough taproot. Hand-pulling typically removes the stem but leaves the root, which regrows. Use a dandelion knife or narrow trowel angled under the crown.

Damage: Spreads steadily through round, cheesy seed pods produced continuously from late spring through fall. The spreading stem habit smothers low-growing perennials and vegetable transplants.

Perennial Broadleaf Weeds

These return from roots each spring. Removing the top growth is cosmetic. The following entries focus on root characteristics because that’s what determines whether your removal is permanent or not.

18. Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)

Leaf: Deeply serrated in the distinctive “lion’s tooth” pattern; two to 14 inches long; arranged in a flat rosette at ground level with no stem. All leaves rise directly from the crown.

Stem: No true stem — only hollow, milky-sapped flowering stalks growing six to 24 inches from the rosette.

Root: Taproot typically six to 18 inches deep, with a brittle, fleshy texture that breaks easily during hand-pulling. A one-inch root fragment can regenerate a new plant. Insert a dandelion knife at an angle alongside the root, lever upward, and remove the intact crown.

Damage: Forms dense 6- to 14-inch mats that crowd small plants; each flower head contains 100 to 300 seeds dispersed by wind over several miles. Spring rosettes establish before most garden plants break dormancy, so a garden with dandelions is a garden where the weed had a two-week head start. For more on dandelion biology and cultural significance, see our dandelion guide.

19. Broadleaf Plantain (Plantago major)

Leaf: Oval, two to six inches long; five to nine prominent parallel veins running from base to tip. Pull gently across the leaf and the veins stretch like elastic cords rather than tearing — these tough fibrovascular bundles are unmistakable.

Stem: Short central crown; all leaves emerge directly from the base with no visible stem.

Root: Dense, fibrous crown roots; moderately shallow. Wedge out with a trowel.

Damage: A compaction indicator — plantain thrives where soil is compressed and poorly drained. Removing it without addressing the underlying compaction means it regrows from seed into the same conditions that favor it. Hand-weed and aerate or amend the soil in the same session.

20. Creeping Charlie / Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea)

Leaf: Round to kidney-shaped with scalloped edges; opposite pairs; 0.5 to 1.5 inches across. Glossy, dark green.

Stem: Square in cross-section — roll it between your fingers; four distinct flat sides. Crush a leaf: minty, slightly musty aroma. Square stem plus mint smell = confirmed.

Root: Above-ground stolons extending one to three feet horizontally, rooting at every node; also sends rhizomatic roots beneath the soil surface. Even small stem fragments left in a bed after weeding re-root readily.

Damage: Suspected allelopathic — produces chemicals that reduce growth in nearby plants. Establishes quickly in moist, shaded areas where grass struggles, making garden edges and shaded beds its preferred habitat. Never compost pulled plants; the stem fragments root in the pile. For alternatives to ground covers that don’t invite this weed, our IPM guide covers integrated management strategies for garden beds.

21. Field Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis)

Leaf: Arrowhead-shaped, 0.5 to two inches long; the two basal lobes point backward, away from the leaf tip. Morning glory leaves are heart-shaped with a round indented base — that rounded base versus the backward-pointing lobes is how you tell them apart.

Stem: Thin, prostrate, but twines clockwise around anything it contacts — plant stakes, tomato cages, rose canes, neighboring stems.

Root: Vertical roots reaching 20 feet deep; 70% of the root mass in the top two feet of soil. Lateral roots spread more than 10 feet horizontally per season; two-inch root fragments produce viable new plants. Never till a bed with established bindweed — cultivation spreads fragments throughout the root zone.

Damage: Vine twisting directly redirects plant growth, blocks airflow, and eventually pulls branches down under the vine’s weight. UC IPM notes that bindweed establishes “precludes planting of many vegetable crops” in infested areas. Control requires repeated removal through the season to exhaust root energy reserves — one thorough weeding session changes nothing. For guidance on physical weed barriers that slow bindweed spread, see our comparison of weed fabric versus cardboard.

22. Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense)

Leaf: Deeply lobed with spines along the leaf margins. The key ID marker is the stem: Canada thistle stems have no spines, which distinguishes it from bull thistle and plumeless thistle, both of which have spine-winged stems. Smooth spine-free stem + spiny leaves = Canada thistle.

Stem: Grooved, hairless to slightly hairy; branching near the top; grows one to four feet.

Root: Deep fibrous taproot with horizontal adventitious roots that spread up to 10 feet in a single growing season. Root pieces just a few millimeters long produce new plants, making cultivation counterproductive.

Damage: Suspected allelopathic activity plus aggressive root spread; produces up to 10,000 seeds per plant annually. Removing top growth without addressing the root network stimulates new shoot production from multiple points along the horizontal roots.

23. Wild Violet (Viola sororia)

Leaf: Heart-shaped, one to three inches wide; finely toothed margins; dark glossy green. All leaves rise from a crown with no visible stem above ground.

Stem: Leafstalks emerge directly from the crown; no above-ground stem.

Root: Thick, fleshy rhizomes that resist hand-pulling. Additionally, wild violet produces cleistogamous (closed) flowers underground all season — seeds without visible flowering. Removing visible flowers does nothing to reduce seed production; you’re working against an invisible reproductive system.

Damage: Dense rhizome mats outcompete thin perennials and ground covers; underground seed production makes control feel futile because seedlings appear from seeds you never noticed. Remove the rhizome intact using a trowel rather than pulling from the crown.

24. Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris)

Leaf: Deeply lobed and chrysanthemum-like on the upper surface; turn the leaf over — the underside is covered in distinctive white-woolly hairs. Garden chrysanthemums have no white-hairy underside. That test alone confirms mugwort without any other features.

Stem: Upright, growing to six feet; reddish-purple tinge; aromatic, slightly bitter smell when bruised.

Root: Long, stout rhizomes that spread primarily by vegetative means; seed spread is uncommon in temperate North America. Often arrives undetected in the root balls of field-grown nursery perennials — inspect new plant purchases carefully.

Damage: Thrives in mulched landscape beds — the loose, moist environment that suppresses most weeds suits mugwort perfectly. Cultivation spreads rhizome fragments. It’s resistant to most preemergence herbicides; the most effective organic approach is repeated cutting to ground level throughout the season to exhaust root reserves over one to two years.

25. Narrowleaf Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)

Leaf: Narrow, lance-shaped; three to 12 inches long; three to five prominent parallel veins running the full length; base tapers to a narrow stalk. Much narrower than broadleaf plantain — like comparing a butter knife to a spatula.

Stem: Deep, ribbed crown; distinctive ridged seed stalk rising six to 18 inches, ending in a dense, oblong brownish spike.

Root: Fibrous crown roots similar to broadleaf plantain but tolerates drier conditions and compact soils.

Damage: Wind-pollinated; spreads prolifically from bare spots; forms low clumps that crowd vegetable seedlings and perennial transplants. Its presence, like broadleaf plantain, indicates compacted or poorly drained soil — improve soil structure alongside removal. A deep organic mulch layer helps suppress new plantain seedlings while improving soil structure over time.

Weed Damage Symptom Diagnostic Table

Use this table when you’re seeing damage but haven’t yet identified the weed causing it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I tell a sedge from a grass without digging up the root?

Pinch the stem and roll it between your fingers. Sedge stems are triangular — you’ll feel three flat sides. Grass stems are round. This takes two seconds and works at any growth stage. If you feel a triangle, you have a sedge, most likely nutsedge in garden settings.

I pulled a weed and more came back from the roots. What type is it?

That’s the signature of a perennial with a root that regenerates from fragments: dandelion (taproot), Canada thistle (horizontal roots), field bindweed (deep vertical roots), or nutsedge (tubers). The difference matters for control strategy: dandelion needs a deep lever tool; bindweed and thistle need repeated top removal to exhaust root reserves; nutsedge needs tuber-level intervention, not just pulling.

Is purslane actually a weed or a vegetable?

Both. Common purslane is a summer annual weed with a real capacity to smother vegetable seedlings — that part is genuine. But young plants are also edible, mildly tangy, and high in omega-3 fatty acids. If you’re weeding it anyway, put the young plants in a salad or stir-fry rather than the compost. Older plants are tougher and less palatable.

Why does my garden have the same weeds every year even after I remove them?

Two reasons. First, seed banks: annual weed seeds survive in soil for years (crabgrass seeds remain viable for at least three years; dandelion seeds blow in from miles away). Second, perennial roots: dandelion, bindweed, thistle, and nutsedge all regenerate from root pieces. Consistent mulching — three to four inches of coarse organic material — suppresses annual weeds by blocking light from germinating seeds, while systematic removal of perennials before seed set reduces future pressure over time.

Sources

1. Weed Management in Landscapes — UC IPM
2. Field Bindweed — UC IPM
3. Dandelion Pest Notes — UC IPM
4. Yellow Nutsedge in Greater Depth — eOrganic
5. Spotted Spurge and Other Spurges — UC IPM
6. Weeds as Reservoirs of Plant Pathogens — UF/IFAS EDIS
7. Types of Weeds in Landscapes, Gardens, and Lawns — Iowa State Extension
8. Quackgrass — UMN Extension
9. Mugwort or Chrysanthemum Weed — NC State Extension
10. Ground Ivy (Creeping Charlie) — UMN Extension
11. Canada Thistle — UMN Extension
12. Crabgrass — UC IPM
13. Smooth Crabgrass and Large Crabgrass — Penn State Extension