Utah Planting Guide: What to Grow and When
Utah spans zones 4 through 9 — Logan gardeners get 153 frost-free days; St. George gets 249. Exact frost dates, a regional planting calendar, and USU Extension variety picks for every part of the state.
Utah grows more garden variety than most gardeners expect. Within a two-hour drive of St. George, you pass through five USDA hardiness zones — from warm desert terrain at 2,800 feet to high mountain valleys where the last spring frost arrives in early June. Most gardening guides written for the Intermountain West gloss over these extremes. This one doesn’t.
Utah’s planting windows, frost dates, and crop selection vary so dramatically by region that advice calibrated for Salt Lake City is wrong for Logan, and advice calibrated for Logan is wrong for St. George. This guide covers all three regions — with exact frost dates, a month-by-month planting calendar, and variety picks drawn from Utah State University Extension research. It also covers Utah’s most stubborn soil problem: alkaline pH that quietly wrecks vegetables unless you address it directly.
Utah’s Growing Zones by Region
Utah spans USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 4 through 9, but the vast majority of the state’s gardens fall into three distinct planting regions. Elevation is the dominant variable — a difference of 2,000 feet in elevation typically shifts the effective growing season by three to four weeks. Valley inversions add another layer of complexity: both Cache Valley and parts of the Salt Lake Valley collect cold air from surrounding mountains on calm nights, making actual frost events occur later in spring and earlier in fall than regional averages suggest.
| Region | USDA Zones | Key Cities | Elevation Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Northern Utah / Cache Valley | 5b – 6a | Logan, Brigham City, Tremonton | 4,400 – 5,000 ft |
| Uinta Basin | 4b – 5b | Vernal, Roosevelt, Duchesne | 5,000 – 6,000 ft |
| Wasatch Front / Central Utah | 6b – 7b | Salt Lake City, Provo, Ogden, Tooele | 4,200 – 4,800 ft |
| Carbon / Castle Country | 5a – 6a | Price, Helper, Castle Dale | 5,500 – 6,000 ft |
| Southern Utah Highlands | 6a – 6b | Cedar City, Kanab, Panguitch | 5,800 – 6,200 ft |
| Southern Utah Desert / Dixie | 8b – 9a | St. George, Washington City, Hurricane | 2,700 – 3,000 ft |
Zone assignments shifted in the 2023 USDA map update — Salt Lake City moved from zone 7a to 7b, and portions of the St. George area moved into zone 9a. These shifts are meaningful for perennial plantings and fruit tree selection. For what these revisions mean for long-term garden planning — which perennials have become viable and which formerly cold-hardy plants now face new risks — our overview of climate zone migration covers the practical implications region by region.
Utah Frost Dates by City
Your last spring frost date sets the earliest safe transplant window for frost-sensitive crops. Your first fall frost marks when those plants need protection or harvest. Utah’s numbers vary far more than most states — gardeners in St. George get twice the frost-free growing season of gardeners in Logan, and Vernal can see killing frosts as late as late May in cold years.
| City | Zone | Last Spring Frost | First Fall Frost | Growing Season |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| St. George | 8b – 9a | March 15 | November 20 | ~249 days |
| Cedar City | 6a – 6b | May 10 | October 10 | ~153 days |
| Salt Lake City | 7b | April 16 | October 28 | ~195 days |
| Provo | 7a – 7b | April 22 | October 22 | ~183 days |
| Logan | 5b – 6a | May 8 | October 8 | ~153 days |
| Vernal | 4b – 5a | May 25 | September 25 | ~123 days |
| Price | 5b – 6a | May 5 | October 10 | ~158 days |
Frost dates represent 30-year historical averages. Cold air drainage in Cache Valley, Vernal, and low-lying Salt Lake Valley areas means actual late-spring frosts often occur a week or two after the calendar average. Watch local forecast temperatures rather than relying solely on average-date rules, especially in enclosed valley locations.
Utah Planting Calendar
The table below uses three regional columns: Northern Utah and Cache Valley (zones 5b–6a), the Wasatch Front and Central Utah (zones 6b–7b), and Southern Utah’s St. George Dixie area (zones 8b–9a). Utah State University Extension treats these as guides — cold snaps in enclosed mountain valleys can extend the danger window by a week or more past average dates.
| Crop / Task | Northern UT / Cache Valley (Zone 5b–6a) | Wasatch Front / Central UT (Zone 6b–7b) | Southern UT / St. George (Zone 8b–9a) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Peas (direct sow) | Apr 15 – May 15 | Mar 25 – May 1 | Feb 1 – Mar 15 |
| Lettuce / spinach (seed) | Apr 20 – May 25 | Apr 1 – May 10 | Feb 1 – Apr 1 and Sep 15 – Nov 15 |
| Broccoli / cabbage (transplant, spring) | May 1 – May 20 | Apr 10 – Apr 30 | Feb 15 – Mar 20 |
| Carrots / beets (direct sow) | May 1 – Jun 1 | Apr 15 – May 15 | Feb 15 – Apr 1 and Sep 1 – Oct 15 |
| Tomatoes (transplant) | May 25 – Jun 10 | May 5 – May 25 | Apr 1 – Apr 20 |
| Peppers (transplant) | Jun 1 – Jun 15 | May 15 – Jun 1 | Apr 10 – May 1 |
| Cucumbers / summer squash (direct) | Jun 1 – Jun 20 | May 15 – Jun 10 | Apr 1 – May 1 |
| Snap beans (direct sow) | Jun 1 – Jun 25 | May 15 – Jun 15 | Apr 1 – May 15 and Jul 1 – Aug 1 |
| Corn (direct sow) | Jun 1 – Jun 20 | May 15 – Jun 10 | Apr 1 – May 1 |
| Winter squash / pumpkins | Jun 1 – Jun 15 | May 20 – Jun 5 | Apr 1 – Apr 20 |
| Broccoli / cabbage (fall transplant) | Jul 1 – Jul 20 | Jul 15 – Aug 1 | Sep 1 – Oct 1 |
| Fall lettuce / greens | Jul 15 – Aug 1 | Aug 1 – Sep 1 | Sep 15 – Nov 15 |
| Garlic (fall planting) | Oct 1 – Oct 25 | Oct 10 – Nov 1 | Nov 1 – Dec 1 |
| Spring bulbs (fall planting) | Sep 20 – Oct 20 | Oct 1 – Nov 1 | Nov 1 – Dec 1 |
Spring Planting in Utah: March through May
Spring comes unevenly to Utah. St. George warms reliably by mid-February; the Wasatch Front sees variable conditions through April; Logan and Cache Valley can stay frozen into early May. The useful rule is to treat your last frost date as a median, not a guarantee — Utah’s mountain terrain produces late-season cold snaps that have killed transplants on May 10 in areas where the average last frost falls on April 20.
Cool-season crops go in first. Peas, spinach, and lettuce tolerate light frost and should go out as soon as soil can be worked — typically late March in Salt Lake City, mid-April in Logan, and late January in St. George. Broccoli, cabbage, and onion transplants follow two to four weeks later. Starting tomato and pepper transplants indoors eight to ten weeks before your last frost date is essential in northern Utah, where the outdoor season simply isn’t long enough to direct-sow heat-loving crops and get ripe fruit before October.
Soil temperature matters more than calendar date. Beans and corn germinate poorly when soil temperature is below 60°F — planting early on a warm week in May, followed by a cold snap, wastes seed and sets germination back further than waiting would have. Use a soil thermometer at 2-inch depth before direct-sowing warm-season crops. In cold years, waiting an extra week produces faster, more vigorous germination than pushing calendar dates.
Spring is also when succession planting pays off most in Utah. Lettuce planted every two weeks from late March through May (Salt Lake area) extends harvest through June before heat induces bolting. Snap beans succession-sown every ten days from mid-May through mid-June produce a continuous harvest rather than a single glut. For building a year-round harvest succession across Utah’s variable seasons, our year-round planting guide covers timing strategies and spacing approaches adapted to the Intermountain West.
Summer Gardening in Utah: June through August
Utah summers split into two very different challenges depending on where you garden. In St. George and the southern desert, July and August regularly hit 105–110°F — conditions that stress even heat-tolerant crops and require afternoon shade cloth for tomatoes and peppers to prevent blossom drop. On the Wasatch Front, summers are hot (90–100°F) but manageable with consistent moisture. In Logan and Cache Valley, the season is short enough that every week counts, and any delay in warm-season crop establishment shows up directly in reduced fall yield.
Water is the defining variable. Utah is the second-driest state in the nation — Salt Lake City averages 15 inches of annual precipitation; St. George gets barely 8. Without supplemental irrigation, gardens fail in midsummer regardless of zone. Drip irrigation outperforms overhead watering in Utah conditions: it delivers water directly to root zones, reduces evaporation loss in the state’s low-humidity air, and keeps foliage dry — an important factor for managing powdery mildew and early blight, which thrive on wet leaves during hot spells. Mulching with 3 to 4 inches of straw or wood chips cuts soil moisture loss dramatically and is one of the highest-return practices in Utah vegetable gardens.
Short-season gardens in northern Utah need focused variety selection in June and July. With only 150–160 frost-free days, there’s no margin for slow-starting varieties. Choose determinate tomato varieties with days-to-maturity under 70 (Siletz, Early Girl at 52 days, Stupice) rather than 80–90-day indeterminates that won’t ripen before October frost arrives. Winter squash planted in early June in Logan should mature in 95 days or fewer — Delicata is borderline at 95 days; Butternut at 110 days won’t make it in a typical Cache Valley season.
Southern Utah gardens face the opposite problem in high summer: heat shutdown. Standard tomato varieties drop blossoms when night temperatures stay above 75°F for extended periods, which happens regularly in St. George from mid-July through August. Focus on peppers and eggplant during this window — both are more heat-tolerant than tomatoes and continue producing into September. Many St. George gardeners plant a second round of tomato transplants in late July to catch the September–October production window, when nights cool enough for fruit set to resume.
Fall Planting in Utah: September through October
Fall is a genuine second season in Utah’s warmer regions and a productive cool-crop window even in the north. The key is working backward from your first fall frost date — most cool-season transplants need 8 to 10 weeks of growing time before hard frost ends the season.
Northern Utah (Cache Valley, zone 5b–6a): With a first frost around October 8, the fall planting window is tight. Start broccoli and cabbage seeds indoors in early July for transplanting by late July. Direct-sow fall carrots, beets, and turnips by August 1. Lettuce and spinach can be direct-sown from late July through mid-August under light shade cloth if temperatures are still running above 85°F at seeding time — hot soil inhibits germination, so surface-sow shallowly and keep the seedbed moist until sprouts emerge.
Wasatch Front (Salt Lake City, zones 6b–7b): A first frost around October 28 gives a more comfortable fall window. Set out fall broccoli and cauliflower transplants from August 1 through August 20. Direct-sow fall spinach, arugula, and lettuce through September 1. Garlic cloves go in October 10 through November 1 for harvest the following July. Utah State University Extension recommends hardneck varieties — Rocambole and Porcelain types — for best performance in Utah winters, though softneck varieties also succeed in the warmer southern zones.
Southern Utah (St. George, zones 8b–9a): Fall is genuinely the better growing season here. Temperatures moderate from brutal summer heat, and the productive cool period stretches from October through March. Plant tomato transplants again in August for an October–November harvest. Set out broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and kale from late September through October. Carrots, beets, lettuce, and spinach seeded from September through November produce harvests that extend into January or February in mild years — a level of winter productivity that northern Utah gardeners can only read about.
Top Vegetables for Utah
The table below covers vegetables with proven Utah track records, with specific variety recommendations from USU Extension trial data and regional grower experience. Short-season varieties are flagged for northern Utah and high-elevation gardeners where the frost-free window is under 160 days.
| Vegetable | Season | Recommended Varieties | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tomato | Summer | Celebrity, Early Girl (52 days), Stupice (52 days), Siletz (52 days), Brandywine, Sun Gold (cherry) | Use short-season varieties in northern Utah; all zones need 8–10 weeks of indoor transplant time; mulch heavily and drip-irrigate |
| Pepper | Summer | California Wonder (bell), Anaheim, Jalapeno, Banana | More heat-tolerant than tomatoes; continue setting fruit in southern Utah through September; transplant only after soil reaches 65°F |
| Cucumber | Summer | Marketmore 76, Fanfare, Straight Eight, Spacemaster (compact) | Direct-sow after last frost; disease-resistant varieties important in monsoon-season years; pick at 6–8 inches to extend production |
| Zucchini / summer squash | Summer | Black Beauty (zucchini), Early Prolific Straightneck, Patio Star (compact) | Direct-sow; produces prolifically in Utah heat; harvest frequently to prevent plants from exhausting themselves on oversized fruits |
| Winter squash | Summer–Fall | Delicata (95 days), Acorn (Autumn Delight), Carnival (85 days) | 90-day or shorter varieties for northern Utah; full-season Butternut (110 days) is too slow for zone 5b; cures well in Utah’s dry fall air |
| Snap bean | Summer | Provider (50 days), Blue Lake 274, Contender | Provider is most heat- and cold-tolerant; direct-sow after frost; succession-sow every 10 days for extended harvest through August |
| Sweet corn | Summer | Honey Select (79 days), Peaches and Cream (83 days), Incredible (85 days) | Plant in blocks of 4+ rows for wind pollination; direct-sow only — roots don’t recover from transplanting; warm soil (65°F+) before sowing |
| Lettuce | Spring / Fall | Buttercrunch, Black Seeded Simpson, Red Sails, Romaine (Paris Island) | Bolt-resistant varieties for Utah’s rapid spring warm-up; fall plantings consistently outperform spring in quality and yield |
| Broccoli | Spring / Fall | Arcadia, Green Magic, Marathon, Belstar | Fall-planted broccoli produces larger, tighter heads than spring across most Utah areas; head quality improves as temperatures drop |
| Carrot | Spring / Fall | Danvers 126, Nantes, Little Finger (for clay soils), Chantenay (for hardpan) | In clay or caliche soils, shorter varieties prevent forking; loosen soil 10–12 inches before sowing regardless of variety |
| Onion | Spring | Walla Walla, Spanish Sweet, Yellow Granex | Plant as sets or transplants in early spring; Utah’s long summer days suit intermediate and long-day varieties; start seeds indoors in January |
| Potato | Spring–Summer | Russet Burbank, Yukon Gold, Red Pontiac, Kennebec | Cut and cure seed potatoes 3–4 days before planting; hill soil as plants grow; harvest before first fall frost |
Flowers and Ornamentals for Utah Gardens
Utah’s low humidity and intense UV create conditions that suit drought-tolerant and sun-loving ornamentals far better than the humidity-loving species dominating East Coast garden guides. Petunias, zinnias, marigolds, and cosmos perform reliably across all Utah zones with consistent irrigation. Snapdragons and pansies are the cool-season workhorses — plant them in late March through April in Salt Lake (February in St. George) for spring bloom, and again in late August through September for fall color before frost.
Utah’s best perennial performers share one quality: they don’t just tolerate alkaline, dry conditions — they actively prefer them. Overwatering is the most common way to kill Utah-adapted perennials once they’re established.
| Plant | Zones | Season | Why It Works in Utah |
|---|---|---|---|
| Russian Sage (Perovskia) | 4 – 9 | Summer – Fall | Thrives in alkaline soil; extreme drought tolerance; silver foliage and blue flowers suit Utah’s dry landscape aesthetic |
| Coneflower (Echinacea) | 4 – 9 | Summer | Native prairie plant; once established, minimal water needed; pollinator magnet; spreads to fill space over several seasons |
| Gaillardia (Blanket Flower) | 4 – 10 | Summer – Fall | Heat and drought tolerant; long bloom period; reseeds freely; tolerates poor alkaline soil without amendment |
| Daylily (Hemerocallis) | 4 – 9 | Early – Mid Summer | Excellent cold-hardiness; wide variety selection; tolerates Utah’s alkaline soil better than most flowering perennials |
| Yarrow (Achillea) | 3 – 9 | Summer | Thrives in dry, infertile, alkaline conditions; near-impossible to over-dry once established; good cut flower |
| Penstemon (Beardtongue) | 4 – 9 | Late Spring – Summer | Native to Utah; several species grow at high elevation; tubular flowers attract hummingbirds; zero supplemental water once established |
| Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) | 4 – 9 | Mid Summer – Fall | Tolerates heat, drought, and alkaline soil; reseeds reliably; long bloom period; pairs naturally with Russian sage |
| Catmint (Nepeta) | 4 – 8 | Spring and Fall (reblooms) | Drought-tolerant; thrives in full sun and alkaline soil; blooms twice with mid-summer shearing; attractive edging plant |
Soil Preparation: Tackling Utah’s Alkaline Soil
Utah’s single biggest gardening obstacle isn’t cold winters or short seasons — it’s soil pH. Most Utah soils test between pH 7.5 and 8.5, compared to the 6.0–7.0 range that most vegetables and fruits need for optimal nutrient uptake. At pH 8.0 and above, iron, manganese, and zinc become chemically unavailable to plant roots even when present in adequate amounts. The condition is called nutrient lockout, and it looks like fertilizer deficiency even in freshly amended soil.
The symptoms are specific: interveinal chlorosis — yellowing between leaf veins while the veins themselves stay green — in tomatoes, fruit trees, and blueberries almost always signals iron deficiency caused by high pH, not iron shortage in the soil. Applying chelated iron fertilizer without first addressing pH produces short-term greening that fades within weeks. The underlying soil chemistry wins every time.
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→ View My Garden CalendarThe most reliable solution for vegetable gardens is raised beds filled with imported, neutral-pH soil. Target pH 6.0–6.8 at establishment and maintain it through regular compost additions. Raised beds also solve Utah’s second soil problem: compacted clay or caliche hardpan layers that block root penetration and drainage in many valley soils. For in-ground planting, elemental sulfur applied at rates based on soil test results — typically 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet — gradually lowers pH, but the shift takes months and requires follow-up testing. Adding wood ash to Utah soil is counterproductive; it raises pH further, which is the opposite of what most Utah gardens need.
Get a soil test before making amendments. Utah State University Extension can connect you with labs providing Utah-specific recommendations. The small cost saves years of wasted products and underperforming crops. As a reference: tomatoes prefer pH 6.0–6.8; brassicas prefer 6.0–7.0; onions and beans prefer 6.0–7.0; blueberries require 4.5–5.5 and represent a special case that almost always demands dedicated raised beds in Utah.
Companion planting strategies deliver particular value in Utah’s alkaline soil conditions, where nutrients may be partially locked at high pH and soil biology is still recovering in newly amended beds. Beans interplanted with corn fix atmospheric nitrogen into the root zone. Marigolds planted throughout vegetable beds suppress soil nematodes. Tall plantings create beneficial afternoon shade that extends the productive life of lettuce planted on their north side by several weeks as spring temperatures climb. For the science behind effective plant pairing — including specific combinations that improve yield without sacrificing space — our companion planting guide covers Intermountain West-relevant applications.
Fruit Trees and Berries for Utah
Utah has a genuine orchard tradition — the state produces significant commercial cherry, peach, and apple crops, and home orchards do well across most zones. The key advantage is cold winters that reliably satisfy chill-hour requirements for a wide range of temperate fruit varieties, combined with low humidity that reduces the fungal disease pressure that limits orchardists in wetter climates.
Cherries are arguably Utah’s best home orchard bet. Sweet cherries — Bing, Rainier, Lapins — perform excellently in Cache Valley and along the Wasatch Front, where cold winters and warm, dry summers produce high-quality fruit. Plant at least two varieties for cross-pollination, or choose a self-fertile variety like Stella or Compact Stella for small spaces. Cherries tolerate Utah’s alkaline pH better than most stone fruits, though iron chlorosis can appear at pH above 7.8.
Peaches and nectarines do well in Salt Lake Valley and southern Utah but face blossom damage from late spring frosts in Cache Valley — plant on southern exposures or elevated slopes where cold air drains away from the trees rather than pooling around them. Reliance, Contender, and Madison are cold-hardy varieties (to -15°F) recommended by USU Extension for Utah’s colder zones. Redhaven and Elberta perform well in zones 6b and warmer.
Apples grow across all Utah regions. Most Utah locations accumulate 800–1,400 chill hours per winter, opening up a wide variety selection. Disease-resistant varieties — Enterprise, Honeycrisp, Fuji, Gala — perform well without aggressive spray programs in Utah’s dry climate. Avoid varieties requiring fewer than 400 chill hours in northern Utah — they bloom too early and suffer frost damage most springs.
Blueberries are the difficult case in Utah. They require pH 4.5–5.5 and consistently moist soil — conditions that conflict with Utah’s alkaline soil chemistry and high evaporation rates. Successful Utah blueberry production almost always involves large raised beds (minimum 18 inches deep) filled with peat, sulfur, and acidified soil, maintained with acidifying fertilizers and heavy mulch. It’s achievable but should be treated as a dedicated project rather than a standard planting.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the last frost in Utah?
It depends on your location. Salt Lake City’s average last spring frost falls around April 16. Logan and Cache Valley should plan for May 8. St. George sees the last frost around March 15. In Utah’s enclosed mountain valleys, actual late frosts can arrive a week or two after the historical average — cold air pooling at valley floors extends risk beyond what the calendar suggests. Watch local National Weather Service forecasts before transplanting warm-season crops.
What grows best in Utah’s alkaline soil?
Several vegetables actually prefer the higher pH range Utah soils provide: asparagus (ideal at pH 6.5–7.5), onions, garlic, Swiss chard, and most herbs including lavender, rosemary, and sage. Among ornamentals, Russian sage, yarrow, gaillardia, and catmint thrive without any pH amendment. For crops that struggle above pH 7.0 — tomatoes, peppers, most fruits — raised beds filled with imported neutral-pH soil are the most reliable approach rather than trying to amend large areas of native Utah soil.
Can I grow tomatoes in Utah?
Yes, and they do very well in most Utah regions. The keys are timing and variety selection. In Salt Lake City, transplant after May 10 when soil reaches at least 60°F. In Logan and Cache Valley, wait until May 25 through June 1 and choose short-season varieties with 70 days or fewer to maturity — Early Girl, Siletz, and Stupice all come in at 52 days and ripen reliably before October frost. Mulch heavily with straw, drip-irrigate rather than overhead-water, and stake or cage early to support vigorous Utah growth.
What vegetables can I grow in St. George?
St. George’s zone 8b–9a climate supports two full growing seasons and most warm-season crops for much of the year. Spring crops — tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans — go in from late March through April. Mid-summer (July–August) is genuinely too hot for tomatoes to set fruit, so shift to heat-tolerant crops like peppers, eggplant, and okra through that window. Start fall vegetables from September through October — broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, carrots — for a winter harvest that extends into January or February in mild years.
How do I fix alkaline soil in Utah?
Start with a soil test to confirm your actual pH and nutrient levels before spending money on amendments. For vegetable gardens, raised beds with imported neutral-pH soil targeting 6.0–6.8 are the fastest fix. For in-ground planting, incorporate 4–6 inches of compost per season and apply elemental sulfur at test-recommended rates — the pH shift takes months, not weeks, and requires follow-up testing. Never add wood ash to Utah soil; it raises pH further. Avoid chelated iron products as a long-term fix — they treat the symptom but not the underlying soil chemistry.
Sources
- Utah State University Extension. Fruits, Vegetables and Herbs — crop guides, planting research, and variety recommendations for Utah home gardens.
- Utah State University Extension. Yard and Garden Planting Calendar — monthly planting tasks and timing guides for Utah’s growing regions.
- USDA Agricultural Research Service. USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map — 2023 updated hardiness zone data for Utah, including revised zone assignments for Salt Lake City and St. George.
