Lilacs in Pots? Yes! Your Ultimate Guide to Container Success!

Picture this: you stroll out onto your balcony, patio, or even simply a sunny spot by your door and are welcomed by the lovely aroma and beautiful, cone-shaped flowers of your own lilac bush. Doesn’t that sound like a wonderful dream? “Can lilac grow in pots?” is a subject that comes up a lot for gardeners, especially those with small gardens, those who live in cities, or those who just want to be close to these lovely flowers.

Well, get ready to be excited because the answer is a big YES! Lilacs may grow well in pots if you pick the correct kind, know what they need, and take care of them. They will provide their famous spring beauty and sweet smell to practically any room. Stop thinking that these beautiful bushes are only good for big yards. This post will reveal the secrets to growing lilacs in pots successfully. We’ll talk about everything from how to choose the best dwarf or compact types to how to pot them properly, how to care for them, and even how to protect them in the winter. This way, your potted lilac will not only survive, but it will also grow and fill your own oasis with its unique presence.

Why should you put your lilac in a pot? Benefits and Important Things to Think About

Some people might think that putting a lilac in a pot is strange, but it has a lot of benefits that make it a good choice for many gardeners. But it also needs a few important things to go right in order to work.

The Attractive Benefits of Potted Lilacs:

• Space Saver for Small Gardens: This is perhaps the best thing about it: it’s great for small spaces. If you have a balcony, a small patio, a small city garden, or even just a sunny doorstep, a potted lilac lets you enjoy lovely flowers where a shrub planted in the ground wouldn’t fit.
• Portability and Flexibility: Want to change the design of your garden? It’s portable and flexible. You can move a lilac in a pot! You may move it to get the best sunlight at different times of the year, put it in a more sheltered place when the weather is bad, or even use it as a temporary centerpiece for an outdoor party.
• Controlled Soil Environment: If your garden soil isn’t great for lilacs (maybe it’s too acidic, too heavy clay, or doesn’t drain well), you may grow them in a container and give them the perfect potting mix that they like.
• Stunning Focal Points: A pretty lilac in a nice container can provide a beautiful focal point in your outdoor living spaces, adding height, structure, and of course, amazing spring beauty.
• Fragrance Up Close: The beautiful lilac aroma might come through your open window or meet you every time you stroll onto your patio. If you grow lilacs in pots, you can put them in the best places to enjoy their scent the most.

Important Things to Think About Before You Start:

There are numerous benefits to container-grown lilacs, but they do take a little more planning than lilacs that grow in the ground.

• Variety Selection is Crucial: Choosing the right variety is very important. Standard, full-sized lilac cultivars can grow very large (10–15 feet tall or more) and have deep roots, which makes them not good for long-term container living. You should only look at dwarf or compact types.
• Pot Size Matters (A Lot!): Lilacs, even the small ones, need a lot of space for their roots to flourish. If you start too little, your plant will quickly become root-bound and stressed.
• Watering Diligence: Plants in pots dry up considerably faster than those in the ground, especially when it’s hot, sunny, or windy. Watering regularly will be very important.
• Winter Protection: Plants in above-ground containers’ roots are far more vulnerable to cold temperatures and destructive freeze-thaw cycles than those that are shielded by the dirt.

Don’t let these things stop you! They are all easy to take care of with some forethought, which will lead to a gorgeous potted lilac.

Choosing the Best Lilac Varieties for Pots: Not All Lilacs Are the Same

Choosing the appropriate type of lilac is the most important thing you can do to make sure they grow well in pots. Traditional lilacs, like many types of Syringa vulgaris, can grow into huge shrubs or even small trees. They are too big for even the biggest container. Plant breeders have made a great selection of dwarf and compact lilac types that are suitable for growing in pots.

Why Standard Lilacs Don’t Work Well in Pots:

In short, their full-grown bulk, both above and below ground, is too big. Their strong root systems would quickly become tight, which would stress the plant, make it sick, and keep it from blooming.

Dwarf and Compact Lilac Superstars for Containers in the Spotlight:

Here are some great options that will stay easier to care for and look great in a pot:

• Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ is also known as Meyer Lilac or Dwarf Korean Lilac.
  • Some people say this is one of the most popular and dependable dwarf lilacs for pots. It usually grows into a small, circular shape that is around 4 to 5 feet tall and wide.
  • In late April, it makes a lot of lavender-pink flower panicles that smell amazing.
  • Why it’s ideal for pots: it grows naturally little, grows densely, smells nice, and is often surprisingly tolerant. Some people say that it blooms again from time to time.

• Syringa patula ‘Miss Kim’ is also known as Miss Kim Lilac.
  • Another great option, “Miss Kim” is loved for its compact, upright-rounded shape (it generally grows 6 to 8 feet tall in the ground, but you can keep it smaller in a pot by trimming it) and its powerfully fragrant, icy-blue to lavender flowers that bloom a little later than common lilacs.
  • The dark green foliage turn a lovely crimson color in the fall.
  • Why it’s wonderful for pots: It doesn’t grow too fast, it smells great, and it adds interest in the fall.
• Bloomerang® Series (for example, Syringa x ‘Penda’ Bloomerang® Dark Purple and Syringa x ‘SMSJBP7’ Bloomerang® Pink Perfume):
  • This kind of lilacs is famous for being able to blossom again. They start blooming in the spring and then keep flowering irregularly through the summer and into the fall.
  • They usually stay small, about 4 to 6 feet tall and broad, which makes them great for containers.
  • Why it’s ideal for pots: It blooms for a long time, is easy to care for, and comes in a range of hues.

• Little Lady® Lilac (Syringa x ‘Jeflady’):
  • This type was created in Canada and is distinguished for its small, spherical shape, which usually grows to be 4 to 5 feet tall and wide.
  • It has dark lilac-pink buds that smell good and open up to lighter pink blooms.
  • Why it’s ideal for pots: It’s little, smells great, and is tough.
• Tinkerbelle® Lilac (Syringa ‘Bailbelle’):
  • Tinkerbelle® is a lovely little lilac that is part of the Fairytale® family. It grows to be around 5–6 feet tall and 4–5 feet wide.
  • It is known for its peppery, wine-red buds that bloom into lovely deep pink blooms.
  • Why it’s wonderful for pots: the buds and flowers are a unique color, it smells well, and it’s a good size.

Where to Get These Types:

You can find these dwarf and compact lilac types at good local nurseries or through online stores that sell plants. To be sure the plant will fit in a container, always check the tag for information on its mature size. You can make your potted lilac successful for years by picking the proper kind from the start!

Container Cultivation Mastered: How to Plant Your Lilac for Perfect Potted Growth

The next fun step is to pot up your beautiful dwarf or compact lilac once you’ve picked it out. It’s very important to plant your lilac in a container correctly so that it grows well. Think of it as making the perfect small universe for its roots to grow in.

Choosing the Right Container: It Will Be Its Home for Years to Come

Don’t skimp on the size of the pot! Size really does matter. You should start with a container that holds at least 15 to 20 gallons of water, which is about 18 to 24 inches wide and deep. A bigger pot is often better because it gives the roots more area to grow, keeps the temperature more stable, and means you won’t have to repot as often. “Don’t just think of this as a place to stay for a short time; think of it as its long-term home.”

Choices of materials:

• Terracotta (clay): Pros: It’s porous, which lets air get to the roots, and it looks traditional. Disadvantages: It dries up rapidly, is heavy, and can crack if it gets too cold.
• Plastic/Resin: Pros: It’s light, holds moisture well, is frequently cheaper, and comes in a lot of decorative styles. Cons: Can get really hot in the sun (which could cause roots to overheat), and it doesn’t breathe as well.
• Glazed Ceramic: Pros: It looks great and holds moisture nicely. Cons: They can be heavy and pricey, so make sure they drain well.
• Wood (like half whiskey barrels): Pros: good insulation and a natural look. Cons: It will eventually rot, but it can last for many years if it is treated or lined.
• Fabric pots: Pros: They drain and aerate well (air pruning of roots). Cons: They dry up quickly and may not look as formal.

There is no way to get around drainage! No matter what material you use, make sure the pot has a lot of big drainage holes at the bottom. Lilacs don’t like “wet feet,” and if the soil doesn’t drain well, the roots will rot and the plant will be unhappy.

Not just any dirt will do for the perfect potting mix:

Never use garden soil or dirt from your yard. Instead, use a high-quality potting mix that drains well. It will get very compacted in a pot, which will make it hard for the roots to breathe and drain.

• Find a potting mix that is light and fluffy and made for shrubs or general use in outdoor containers.
• Think about changing: You may make a regular potting mix better by adding:
  • Compost (approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the volume): It adds nutrients and makes the soil better.
  • Perlite or coarse sand: Helps with drainage and air flow.
• Adding a little bone meal to the bottom of the potting mix can provide the roots the phosphorus they need to grow well.

The Steps for Planting:

1. Get the Pot Ready: If the drainage holes are too big, you can cover them with a piece of landscaping fabric, a coffee filter, or some pot shards to keep the potting mix from washing away while still letting water out.
2. Put in some potting mix: Put a layer of the potting mix you want at the bottom of the container. The amount depends depend on how big the root ball of your lilac is. When you plant it, the top of the root ball should be about 1 to 2 inches below the rim of the pot. This gap makes it easier to water.
3. Take the Lilac out of its nursery pot: To do this, carefully tip the nursery pot on its side and slide the lilac out. You might have to compress the pot or run a knife along the inside edge if it’s stuck. As you pull the plant out, hold the base up.
4. Look at the root ball and loosen the roots. If the roots are firmly around each other (root-bound), gently pull them apart with your fingertips or cut a few vertical cuts with a clean, sharp knife. This makes the roots spread out into the new potting mix instead of going around in circles.
5. Position Your Lilac: Put the lilac in the middle of the new pot so that the top of its root ball is 1 to 2 inches below the rim of the pot. If you need to, change the level of the dirt below.
6. Fill with Potting Mix: Start putting the potting mix around the root ball, and as you go, lightly press it down with your hands to get rid of big air pockets. But don’t stuff it too tightly.
7. Water Deeply: After filling the pot, water your newly planted lilac deeply and completely until water starts to flow freely out of the holes at the bottom. This helps the potting mix settle around the roots and gets rid of any air pockets that are still there.
8. (Optional but Recommended) Add a thin (1-inch) layer of organic mulch, like shredded bark or small wood chips, on top of the soil. The mulch should be about an inch away from the main stem of the lilac. This helps keep the soil moist, keep weeds down, and keep the root zone colder.

Your lilac in a pot is now ready to get used to its new home!

How to Care for and Maintain Your Potted Lilac So It Stays Happy

Now that your lilac is in a beautiful pot, you need to take care of it regularly so it may grow and provide you the flowers you’ve been wanting. When you grow a plant in a pot, it depends on you for all it needs, which is different from plants that grow in the ground.

A. Watering Wisdom: The Key to Keeping Potted Plants Alive

This is probably the most important part of caring for lilacs that thrive in pots.

• Pots Dry Out Faster: Keep in mind that the small amount of soil in a pot dries out more faster than the soil in a garden, especially when it’s hot, sunny, or windy.
• Check Daily, Water as Needed: Check the soil moisture every day at first. Make it a habit to check the soil moisture every day, especially during the growing season. Put your finger about 1–2 inches deep into the potting mix. It’s time to water if it seems dry at that depth. Wait until it dries out.
• Water Well: When you water, do it deeply and completely until you notice water coming out of the bottom holes in the pot. This makes sure that the whole root ball gets wet. Frequent, shallow sprinklings can cause roots to grow only a little bit.
• Avoid Waterlogged Saucers: Don’t let the pot stay in a saucer full of water for long periods of time, even though it’s necessary to keep it moist. This can cause the roots to decay. After 30 minutes, pour out any extra water from the saucer.
• Adjust Frequency: You need to water more often when it’s hot and dry and less often when it’s cool and damp. Pots that are bigger will hold moisture longer than pots that are smaller.

B. Sunlight Needs: What Flowers Need to Grow

Most lilacs, even the short ones in pots, like the sun. Put your potted lilac where it will get at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day for the best growth and the most flowers.

If you live in a place where the sun is especially strong in the afternoon, you might want to protect your flowers from it. But in general, more sun means more blossoms.

C. How to Feed Your Containerized Friend (Fertilizing Potted Lilacs):

Plants in pots can only get the nutrients that are in their potting mix. These nutrients can run out over time or be washed away with regular watering.

When to Give Food:

• Begin with a decent potting mix that might already have some fertilizer that releases slowly.
• In the years that follow, you can feed your potted lilac in early spring as new growth starts.

What to Use:

• A smart choice is a balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer made for flowering bushes. Follow the directions on the label for how much to use on plants in containers.
• You can also apply a diluted liquid fertilizer, such as a fish emulsion or a balanced synthetic liquid feed, every few weeks throughout the active growing season (spring and early summer). Just be sure to follow the directions on the package.
• Don’t use too much fertilizer; this is very important! Too much fertilizer, especially those with a lot of nitrogen, can make plants develop thick and green leaves instead of blossoms. It can also hurt the roots of plants that are in pots. Lilacs frequently look better with less.

D. Repotting Over Time: Making More Room for Roots

Even small lilacs will ultimately outgrow their pots, otherwise the potting mix will become hard and lose its nutrients.

When to Repot: Every three to five years, you should repot your lilac into a container that is a little bigger and has new, high-quality potting mix.

Signs it’s Time to Repot:

• The pot lets water flow through it quite quickly.
• It dries out quite quickly, therefore it needs to be watered every day or more often.
• You can see roots coming out of the perforations for drainage.
• Even though it is getting proper care, growth seems to have slowed down a lot.

How to Repot: The steps are the same as when you first planted it, except this time you’ll be putting it in a pot that is 2 to 4 inches wider. If the plant is particularly root-bound, this is also a good time to trim some of the roots.

If you pay attention to these important maintenance tips, your potted lilac will stay healthy, strong, and ready to bloom.

Pruning Potted Lilacs: How to Shape Them for Beauty and Blooms

Whether your lilacs are in the ground or in pots, pruning is a crucial part of taking care of them. Pruning container-grown lilacs helps keep their size and shape under control, lets air circulate freely, and most significantly, if done right, it guarantees a good show of flowers next season.

Why should you prune your lilac in a pot?

• Keeps the shrub in proportion to its container and stops it from getting too lanky or too big for its environment.
• Cut off dead, broken, or crossing branches. This will make the plant look better and be healthier.
• Encourage air flow: This helps keep fungal illnesses from spreading.
• Promote Flowering (When Done Right!): By eliminating old blooms and occasionally thinning down older wood.

This is the most important rule of timing!

As we said before, lilacs grow on “old wood.” This means that once they finish blooming this year, they will develop flower buds for next year’s flowers in the summer.

So, the ONLY time you can trim your lilac without losing next year’s blossoms is right after it blooms in late spring or very early summer. Try to finish any pruning that has to be done within a few weeks of the last petals withering.

If you prune too late in the summer, in the fall, winter, or early spring before the flowers bloom, you will chop off the flower buds that have already formed for the next season. This will mean that there will be few or no blossoms.

What to Cut Back on Your Potted Lilac:

A light touch is usually all that’s needed for dwarf and compact plants in containers.

• Deadheading (Cutting Off Dead blooms): When the blooms start to fade, cut off the clusters of flowers that are no longer blooming at the place where they meet a leaf or a side branch. This stops the plant from making seeds and can make it seem neater. Deadheading is especially helpful for several types of reblooming flowers.
• Shaping and Sizing: After deadheading (or at the same time), check the general form of your lilac to see how well you shaped and sized it.
  • Cut back any branches that are too long, out of proportion, or making the shrub look messy. Cut back to a healthy leaf node or a side branch.
  • You can make the plant a little smaller if you need to, but you shouldn’t cut off more than one-third of its total mass at once.
• Removing Problematic Branches: You can (and should) remove these at any time of year:
  • Dead wood is stems that are dry, brittle, and don’t show any indications of life.
  • Branches that are broken or injured.
  • Branches that are rubbing against each other (this might cause wounds that let infections in). Cut off the weaker or poorly situated of the two branches that are rubbing against each other.
• Thinning every now and then (for older, more crowded plants): If your potted lilac gets particularly dense in the middle after a few years, you can make the air flow better by cutting off one or two of the oldest, thickest stems right at the base. Young dwarf varieties don’t need this as often, but they can need it as they get older.

One experienced gardener says, “A little well-timed pruning is like giving your potted lilac a neat haircut that encourages it to look its best and flower profusely next spring.” Don’t give it a hard shearing at the incorrect time of year!

Winter’s Chill: How to Keep Your Potted Lilac Safe During the Cold Months

One of the hardest things for any plant grown in a container above ground is getting through the winter, especially in places that are colder. Plants in pots have roots that are far more vulnerable to cold temperatures, sudden changes in temperature, and drying winds than plants that are buried in the ground. Lilacs are usually tough bushes, but a potted lilac will require some extra care to get through the winter without getting hurt.

Why you should protect your potted lilacs in the winter:

• Root Exposure: The roots are only a few inches away from the chilly air in a pot, and the pot material itself keeps them from touching it. This means that the root ball can freeze solid much faster and easier than the soil around it.
• Freeze-Thaw Cycles: Repeatedly freezing and thawing the soil in a pot can hurt the roots and push the plant out of the soil.
• Drying Out: Plants can lose moisture even in the winter, especially evergreens. Lilacs are deciduous, though. When the earth is frozen, the roots can’t get water to restore what they’ve lost, which dries them up.

How to Prepare Your Potted Lilac for Winter (Choose Based on How Bad Your Climate Is):

• Move to a Safe Place (Most Common and Effective):
  • Once your potted lilac has gone dormant (lost its leaves), but before the worst winter weather hits, try to transfer it to a safer place if you can.
  • Some good choices are:
    • A garage or shed that isn’t heated (it still needs to be chilly for dormancy, but not so cold that the roots freeze).
    • A covered area on the north or east side of your house, away from the severe winter sun and winds.
    • Underneath a roof or deck.
  • The idea is to protect it from the worst of the winter winds and the biggest changes in temperature.
• Put insulation around the pot:
  • You can insulate the pot itself if you can’t move it or want to keep it safe in a sheltered place.
  • Use layers of bubble wrap, burlap, old blankets, or horticultural fleece to cover the pot (not the plant branches, usually). Tie the wrapping down with twine.
  • You can also make a “cage” out of chicken wire around the pot and fill the space between the wire and the pot with straw or leaves that have fallen.
• Put pots in groups:
  • Putting a few potted plants close together can generate a microclimate that protects them from the cold. The pots in the middle of the group will be warmer.
• Bury the Pot (The “Heeling In” Method for Colder Climates):
  • You can “heel in” your potted lilac to get the most insulation in severely chilly areas.
  • Make a hole in an empty garden bed (or a less obvious place) that is big enough for the pot.
  • Put the pot in the hole so that the rim is level with or just above the ground.
  • Put shredded leaves or straw on top of the soil in the pot and around it. The ground is a great insulator.
• Use Bigger Pots:
  • In general, the bigger the pot and the more soil it has, the more insulation the roots will have and the longer it will take for the pot to freeze solid.

In the winter, watering:

Your dormant potted lilac may still need water from time to time, especially if it is in a dry, protected area or if you experience a dry winter.

• Every few weeks, check the moisture level in the soil. If the top few inches are very dry and the weather is above freezing, give it a moderate watering to dampen the root ball.
• Don’t water if the ground is frozen solid or if a hard freeze is coming soon.

You can slowly relocate your lilac back to its sunny place in the spring, when the risk of hard frosts is gone. You can then look forward to its waking up!

How to Fix Common Problems with Potted Lilacs

Even if you take the best care of your lilac in a pot, you could still have problems with it from time to time. Here are some frequent issues and ways to fix them:

Problem: No Blooms (or Very Few)

Possible Reasons and Ways to Fix Them:

• Age and type: Make sure you get a dwarf or compact species that can grow in containers. Young plants may not bloom well for a few years.
• Not Enough Sun: Lilacs need at least six hours of direct sunlight. Put the pot somewhere with more sun.
• Improper Pruning: Read Chapter 5 again to learn how to prune correctly! Trim only after the flowers have died. You probably cut off flower buds if you pruned at a different period.
• Too Much Nitrogen: Too much nitrogen fertilizer makes leaves grow more than flowers. Stop giving them food with a lot of nitrogen. If other conditions are right, you might want to use a bloom-booster (high phosphorus) in the spring, but don’t go overboard.
• Pot-Bound: If the plant has been in the same pot for a long time, its roots may be stuck and it may be stressed. It’s time to put it in a new pot with a little more mix (see Chapter 4).
• Not Enough Winter Chill (This is Less Common for Most Lilacs): Lilacs need a cold time of hibernation to set buds. This might be because you live in a place with very mild winters or because you kept it warm during the winter.

Issue: Leaves Turning Yellow

Possible Causes and Fixes:

• Overwatering/Poor Drainage: Too much water or bad drainage is a regular problem with pots. Make sure that the drainage holes aren’t blocked and that the soil isn’t always wet. Let the top inch or two dry out between waterings.
• Underwatering: If a plant is always excessively dry, its leaves may become yellow and droop.
• Nutrient Deficiency: Lack of nutrients: Potted plants can run short of nutrients. Think about using a balanced slow-release fertilizer or liquid feed if you haven’t fed it or repotted it in a while. If the leaves turn yellow between the veins, it could mean that the plant doesn’t have enough iron (chlorosis).
• Root-Bound: A plant that is root-bound is stressed and may have withering leaves, just as a plant that has no blossoms.
• Too Much Direct, Hot Sun (Leaf Scorch): Plants love the sun, but if the patio is really hot and dry, the leaves can sometimes get scorched. Make sure there is enough moisture.

Problem: White, powdery coating on leaves (powdery mildew)

Possible Reasons and Fixes:

• This fungal disease is frequent on lilacs, especially when the air is damp and doesn’t move around much.
• Improve Air Circulation: To help the air flow better, cut back some of the inner branches if the plant is particularly dense. Make sure there is room around the pot.
• Water at the base: Don’t get the leaves wet when you water.
• Fungicides: If the problem keeps coming back, organic sprays like neem oil or potassium bicarbonate can assist. Do what the product says to do.

Problem: Bugs like aphids, scale, and spider mites

Possible Reasons and Fixes:

• Potted plants that are stressed out can be more likely to have pests, even if they are usually pest-resistant.
• Inspect Regularly: Check the undersides of leaves and stems often.
• Physical Removal/Sprays: For mild infestations, a powerful spray of water can get rid of some bugs. Neem oil and insecticidal soap are both wonderful organic ways to get rid of scale, spider mites, and aphids. Make sure everything is covered.

You can maintain your potted lilac healthy and lovely by paying special attention to it and taking care of these typical problems right away.

Conclusion: Enjoy the smell of your potted lilac’s flowers for years to come.

Yes, lilacs can grow in pots, which is a happy and clear answer to that hopeful query. You can definitely enjoy the intoxicating spring scent and beautiful flowers of lilacs, even if you don’t have a big garden. All you need is the right dwarf or compact variety, the right size container, the right potting mix, and a commitment to giving the shrub the care it needs.

From the fun of picking out your plant and container to the careful steps of watering, feeding, and protecting it from the cold, every step you do helps your potted lilac stay healthy and happy for a long time. These tough shrubs are forgiving, but being in a pot means they need more of your care, especially when it comes to water and food.

But the work is definitely worth it. Think about how nice it would be to have that explosion of color and smell on your patio, balcony, or entryway every spring. You now have all you need to start your lilac container gardening adventure thanks to the tips in this tutorial. Happy potting! May your room be filled with the lovely views and smells of healthy lilacs for many years to come.

Your Quick Questions About Potted Lilacs Answered!

When gardeners think about growing lilacs in pots, these are some of the most typical queries that come up:

If my lilac is in a pot, how often will I have to move it?

You should usually anticipate to repot a dwarf or compact lilac into a container that is a little bigger and has new potting mix every three to five years. It’s time to repot if the water runs right through the pot extremely quickly after watering, the plant dries out much faster than it used to, roots can be seen growing out of the drainage holes, or the plant’s development has slowed down even though it is getting good care. When you do repot, pick a new pot that is only a few inches (2–4 inches) bigger in diameter than the one you already have.

What do most people do wrong when they try to cultivate lilacs in pots?

One of the most typical mistakes is picking a standard lilac kind that will grow too big for any container that is a reasonable size. This makes the plant’s roots get stuck and stressed out soon. Another common mistake is starting with a pot that is too small. This keeps the roots from growing and makes it hard to water the plants consistently. Lastly, many container gardeners have trouble with uneven watering, which can cause root rot if you water too much or dry out the plants if you don’t water them enough.

Do lilacs that bloom again, like the Bloomerang® series, truly bloom well when grown in pots?

Yes, if you take proper care of them, reblooming lilac cultivars like the Bloomerang® line can do very well and rebloom nicely in containers. To get them to bloom again, make sure they get at least six hours of direct sunlight, regular watering, and regular feeding with a balanced fertilizer, especially after their first big bloom in the spring. Deadheading the flowers that have already bloomed in the spring can also help the plant know to make new buds for later in the season.

The edges of the leaves on my potted lilac are turning brown. What could be making that happen?

Brown, crispy edges on lilac leaves, especially on a plant in a pot, can mean a few different things:

• Underwatering or Inconsistent Watering: Not watering enough or not watering at all: The plant may be getting too dry between waterings, which can cause the tips and edges of the leaves to dry off.
• Low Humidity: Lilacs don’t mind humidity too much, but excessively dry air might make things worse when mixed with other stresses.
• Fertilizer Burn: If you’ve just fertilized and used too much, or if the fertilizer salts have built up in the soil, it can “burn” the edges of the leaves. Make sure you’re mixing liquid fertilizers appropriately, and think about rinsing the pot with plain water every so often to keep salt from building up.
• Sun Scorch: If the plant is in a particularly hot, bright place (say next to a brick wall that faces south) and isn’t getting enough water, the leaves can scorch.

Before anything else, check how you water your plants and make sure you’re not giving them too much fertilizer.