What to Plant in February: First Seeds Indoors and the Hardy Picks for a Cold Frame
A complete guide to what to plant in February for US gardeners, with zone-by-zone advice, bare-root rose planting, indoor seed starting, and dahlia tuber preparation.
February sits at a threshold. Depending on where you garden in the United States, it might still look like deep winter outside your window — or you might already be seeing the first stirrings of growth in the soil. That tension is what makes February such a fascinating month for gardeners. Zones 3 and 4 are still locked in cold, planning indoors while snow sits on the ground. Zones 7 through 10, meanwhile, can direct-sow cool-season crops and plant bare-root roses right now. But everywhere, the pace picks up — because February is the month you stop waiting and start doing.
The key to getting February planting right is understanding what your USDA hardiness zone actually tells you. It tells you about average minimum winter temperatures — not about frost dates, rainfall, or soil temperature. Use your zone as a starting point, then cross-reference with your local Cooperative Extension office for last-frost data specific to your county. That combination is more reliable than any general calendar.
This guide covers everything to plant, sow, and prepare in February: indoor seed starting, bare-root planting, dahlia tuber prep, zone-by-zone outdoor tasks, and indoor houseplant care as the light starts to return. Links to the year-round planting guide, the January planting guide, and March planting guide give you the full seasonal picture.
Seasonal Garden Calendar
Know exactly what to plant, prune and sow — every month of the year.
What to Plant in February: Zone-by-Zone Breakdown
February gardening tasks vary more by zone than almost any other month. Here is what gardeners in each zone should be doing right now.
| Zone | Typical February Low | Outdoor Tasks | Indoor Tasks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 3–4 (Minnesota, northern Wisconsin, Montana, upstate New York) | −40°F to −20°F | None — ground frozen solid | Start onions, celery, peppers, and eggplants indoors. Order bare-root plants for April delivery. |
| Zone 5–6 (Chicago, Philadelphia, Kansas City, Denver) | −20°F to 0°F | Direct-sow spinach, kale, and claytonia under cold frames when soil is workable. Plant bare-root roses on a frost-free day (Zone 6). | Start tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, snapdragons, pansies, and begonias indoors under lights. |
| Zone 7–8 (Virginia, Tennessee, Georgia, Pacific Northwest, Dallas) | 0°F to 20°F | Direct-sow peas, lettuce, spinach, Asian greens, and beets outdoors. Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees. Plant onion sets. | Start tomatoes, peppers, and warm-season flowers indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost. |
| Zone 9–10 (Southern California, Arizona, Florida, Gulf Coast) | 20°F to 40°F | Transplant tomato seedlings outdoors. Direct-sow summer crops: beans, cucumbers, squash. Plant potatoes. Succession-sow salad greens. | Start heat-loving crops (peppers, melons, eggplant) indoors early for the longest possible season. |
According to Purdue Cooperative Extension, knowing your average last-frost date is more useful than zone alone for planning transplant timing. Zone 5 gardeners, for example, typically have their last frost between April 15 and May 15 — meaning February is exactly the right time to start tomatoes for that window.
What to Sow Indoors in February
February indoor seed starting is one of the most productive things a gardener can do. Getting plants under grow lights now means you will have strong, well-developed transplants ready to go out as soon as your soil allows. Here is what to start this month.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes need 6–8 weeks to grow from seed to transplant-ready size. For Zone 5 and 6 gardeners with a last frost in early to mid-May, starting tomatoes in mid-to-late February hits that window precisely. Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed compost, keep at 70–75°F for germination (a heat mat helps), and move under bright grow lights the moment the first seedlings emerge. Leggy tomatoes are the most common beginner mistake — they need 14–16 hours of light per day to stay compact. Varieties to start now include Brandywine for flavour, Roma for sauce, Early Girl and Celebrity for reliability, and Sun Gold for cherry production. Oregon State University Extension recommends starting with disease-resistant varieties (marked VFN) if your region has persistent fungal pressure.
Peppers and Eggplant
Peppers and eggplants are slow-growing and need 10–12 weeks before transplanting — which means starting them in late January through mid-February for most of the country. If you started them in January, check that they are under strong light and not becoming leggy. Germination requires warmth: pepper seeds want 80–85°F soil temperature, making a heat mat non-negotiable. Once germinated, move them off the mat but keep ambient temperatures above 60°F. A single packet of pepper seeds can easily produce 20–30 plants, so start sparingly unless you plan to share.
Geraniums and Pelargoniums
Zonal geraniums (Pelargonium ×hortorum) take 12–16 weeks to reach flowering size from seed, which makes February the ideal starting point for summer containers. Sow seeds in moist seed-starting mix, cover lightly with vermiculite (seeds need light to germinate), and keep at 70–75°F. Germination is slow — up to three weeks — so patience is required. Once germinated, geraniums are robust and fast-growing under lights. Seed-raised geraniums tend to be more uniform and disease-resistant than cuttings from overwinterd plants, though they lack the nostalgic appeal of heritage varieties.
Antirrhinums (Snapdragons)
Snapdragons are one of the best cool-season annuals for US gardeners and one of the most underrated February sowings. They are slow-growing (10–12 weeks to transplant-ready) and need to be surface-sown — do not cover the seed, as light aids germination. Press seeds gently into moist seed-starting mix and cover with a clear propagator lid to retain humidity. Keep at 60–65°F; they do not need warmth to germinate and actually prefer cooler conditions than most annuals. Snapdragons started in February will be ready to plant out after the last frost as established, compact plants that flower far earlier than those started later. They are excellent cut flowers and pollinators love them.
Begonias
Tuberous and fibrous begonias both need a long lead time — 16 weeks or more — making February the last realistic window for starting from seed if you want flowering plants by early summer. Begonia seeds are almost invisibly fine (think dust). Mix them with dry sand before sowing to distribute evenly across moist, firmed seed compost. Surface sow — do not cover. Keep the propagator at 70–75°F and maintain high humidity. Germination takes 2–3 weeks and seedlings are tiny for the first month. Once established, begonias are surprisingly tough. This is one case where buying plug plants might be more practical if you do not already have a well-set-up propagation space.
Pansies for Spring Containers
If you want pansies in containers by early April, start seeds indoors in February. Pansies prefer cool temperatures for germination (around 65°F) and dislike heat — they can even be cold-stratified in the refrigerator for a week before sowing to improve germination rates. Surface sow or cover very lightly, as seeds need darkness to germinate (unlike many other annuals). Once germinated, move to a cool, bright windowsill or under lights at around 60°F. Zone 6+ gardeners can also direct-sow pansies under a cold frame in late February for outdoor spring colour from established plants.
Bare-Root Planting: The February Window
Bare-root planting is one of the great advantages of late winter, and February is prime time for it in Zone 6 and warmer. Bare-root plants — roses, fruit trees, soft fruit bushes, and hedging — are lifted and sold dormant, without soil on their roots. They establish faster than container-grown specimens, cost significantly less, and have a wider variety selection. But the window is short: once plants break dormancy and start producing buds, bare-root planting success drops sharply.
Bare-Root Roses
February is the best month to plant bare-root roses for Zone 6 and warmer, and the last reliable window in many areas before bud break makes planting risky. The soil needs to be workable — not frozen solid, not waterlogged. A good test: squeeze a handful of soil; if it crumbles rather than holds a compact ball, it is workable enough.
Step-by-step bare-root rose planting:
- Soak roots overnight (minimum one hour) in a bucket of water. This rehydrates the roots after transit and is the single most important step for establishment success.
- Dig a generous hole — at least 18 inches wide and 12 inches deep. Mix in well-rotted compost or aged manure.
- Build a small cone of soil in the centre of the hole and drape the roots over it so they fan out naturally.
- Set depth correctly: the bud union (the knobbly graft point near the base of the canes) should sit 1–2 inches below soil level in USDA Zone 6 and colder to protect it from frost heaving. In Zone 7+, the bud union can be at soil level.
- Prune canes to outward-facing buds, cutting at a 45-degree angle about ¼ inch above the bud. Remove any damaged or crossing canes entirely.
- Backfill gradually, firming soil gently around the roots to eliminate air pockets.
- Water thoroughly and mulch with a 3-inch layer of wood chips or bark, keeping mulch away from the canes themselves.
David Austin Roses recommends pruning newly planted bare-root roses harder than you think is necessary — cutting canes back to 6–8 inches encourages the plant to focus energy on root development rather than supporting excessive top growth. This results in a stronger, better-established plant by the end of its first season. For a comprehensive guide to rose care through the seasons, see the Blooming Expert rose care guide.
Valentine’s Day is a natural prompt to think about roses you will grow this year. For a cut flower garden, consider including a David Austin English rose like Roald Dahl (apricot, disease-resistant, excellent repeat-flowering), Olivia Rose (clear pink, exceptionally long-stemmed), or Darcey Bussell (deep crimson). All are available bare-root through late February and offer far better value than buying container-grown plants in summer.
Bare-Root Fruit Trees and Bushes
February is the last reliable chance to plant bare-root fruit trees in most of the country before bud break. Apple, pear, plum, cherry, and peach trees all respond well to bare-root planting when dormant. The method is the same as for roses: soak overnight, build a soil cone, set at the correct depth (the graft union should sit above soil level for fruit trees, unlike roses), prune to shape, and water well.
Soft fruit — gooseberries, currants, and raspberries — is also best planted bare-root in February. These are exceptionally cheap and establish quickly. Raspberries should be cut back to 10 inches after planting to redirect energy into root development.
NC State Cooperative Extension notes that fruit trees planted bare-root in late winter consistently outperform container-grown trees planted in spring over a five-year study period, establishing faster and producing earlier harvests. The reason is simple: dormant trees devote all their initial energy to root growth rather than trying to support foliage simultaneously.
Bare-Root Hedging
Bare-root hedging is significantly cheaper than pot-grown equivalents and February through early March is the ideal planting window. Native hedging species such as hawthorn, blackthorn, field maple, hornbeam, and hazel are typically sold as bare-root whips 12–18 months old. Plant in staggered double rows for a dense hedge, 18 inches apart within the row. Soak roots before planting, backfill well, and cut back hard after planting to encourage bushy growth from the base.
In-Text Image 1: Bare-Root Roses Soaking Before Planting
Dahlia Tuber Prep: Starting Into Growth in February
Dahlias are not planted outdoors until after the last frost — that means May or June for most of the country. But February is exactly the right time to wake up stored tubers and get them actively growing indoors, giving you plants with established shoots and a head start on the season.
Start by inspecting your stored tubers. Pull them out of their storage medium (dry peat, compost, or newspaper) and check each one carefully. Healthy tubers are firm and plump. Discard any that are mushy, show signs of rot, or have completely dried to a husk. A small, shrivelled tuber can sometimes be revived by soaking for a few hours, but heavily rotted ones will infect their neighbours.
Starting dahlias in February:
- Place tubers in dry compost in shallow trays — do not plant deep, and do not water heavily. The goal is to prompt sprouting, not root growth, so the compost should barely be moist.
- Keep in a frost-free location at around 60°F. A garage that holds above freezing but stays cool is ideal; a warm house will produce weak, leggy shoots.
- Check weekly. Shoots should emerge within 3–5 weeks.
- Once shoots are 2–3 inches long, pot tubers up individually into 3-litre pots with a free-draining compost mix and bring into brighter light.
- Harden off in May and plant out only when all frost risk has passed.
If you are buying new dahlia tubers rather than overwintering last year’s, now is the time to order. The best varieties sell out by March. Look for varieties suited to cut flowers (long stems, medium-sized blooms): Bishop of Llandaff (red, single, excellent pollinator plant), Café au Lait (blush cream, extremely popular for weddings and Instagram-style gardens), and Thomas Edison (deep purple, exhibition-quality ball dahlia).
In-Text Image 2: Dahlia Tubers Starting Into Growth
Zone 7–10 Outdoor Planting Tasks in February
Warmer-zone gardeners have a significant head start, and February is one of the most active gardening months in the South, Southwest, and California.
Direct Sowing Cool-Season Crops
In Zone 7 and warmer, the following can be direct-sown into prepared beds from mid-February:
- Peas — garden peas, snap peas, and mangetout all perform best when sown directly in cool soil (40–55°F). Do not wait for warm soil; peas want cold. Sow 1 inch deep, 2 inches apart, in double rows with a trellis or pea sticks ready. Oregon State University Extension recommends inoculating pea seeds with rhizobia bacteria powder if you have not grown legumes in that bed before — it significantly improves yields.
- Spinach — direct-sow ½ inch deep in full sun or light shade. Spinach bolts quickly once temperatures exceed 75°F, so getting it in the ground in February maximises your harvest window in Zone 7+.
- Asian greens — mustard, mizuna, pak choi, and tatsoi are all fast-growing and cold-tolerant. Broadcast-sow thinly and cut-and-come-again from 3 inches high.
- Beets — sow 1 inch deep, 3 inches apart. Each ‘seed’ is actually a cluster of 2–3 seeds, so thin to one seedling per position once germinated.
- Lettuce — surface-sow or barely cover; lettuce needs light to germinate. Mix varieties (butterhead, romaine, loose-leaf) for a cut-and-come-again salad patch. Start under fleece in Zone 7 if nights are still dropping below 28°F.
Onion Sets
In Zone 7 and warmer, plant onion sets in February into well-prepared, weed-free beds. Press sets into the soil with their tips just showing, 4–6 inches apart. Long-day varieties (for northern growers) and short-day varieties (for Zone 7+) require the right choice: short-day onions like Yellow Granex, Texas Supersweet, and Red Burgundy are planted in fall and winter in the South and bulb up as days reach 12–13 hours. If you are in Zone 7 or further south, check that you are buying short-day varieties.
Bed Preparation
Even where you cannot plant yet, February is ideal for bed preparation. Spread a 2-inch layer of well-rotted compost over beds and allow the frost/thaw cycle and earthworm activity to work it in. Do not dig wet soil — it destroys structure. Work only when soil is dry enough not to compact. This is also the time to test soil pH: most vegetables prefer 6.0–7.0. Apply lime now if pH is below 6.0, as it takes 8–12 weeks to affect soil pH.
Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day Planning
Two of the biggest cut-flower occasions of the year fall in spring: Valentine’s Day (February) and Mother’s Day (May). February is the ideal time to plan and plant for both.
For a homegrown cut flower garden that peaks around Mother’s Day, plant bare-root roses now and sow the following in February under lights: sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), larkspur (direct-sow outside in Zone 7+ now), scabiosa, and cosmos. These planted and sown in February will produce an abundance of cut flowers from late May through July.
If you are gifting roses on Valentine’s Day, this is also the month to order bare-root David Austin roses for your own garden. The most giftable and growable varieties include:
- Gertrude Jekyll — quintessential English rose, deep pink, intensely fragrant, disease-resistant
- Olivia Rose Austin — soft pink, superb repeat flowering, outstanding disease resistance
- Boscobel — salmon-coral, myrrh scent, compact and versatile
All of these can be planted bare-root now in Zone 6+ and will reward you with their first full season of flowers by June. Bare-root roses ordered in February typically arrive ready to plant while dormancy holds. See the Blooming Expert rose care hub for full planting and pruning guidance.
February Indoor Plant Care
February marks a turning point for houseplants. Days are noticeably lengthening by mid-month — even though it still looks like winter, the light quality and duration are improving. Plants that have been in a near-dormant state since November start to respond.
Adjusting Watering and Feeding
Increase watering frequency gradually as plants show signs of renewed growth: new leaves unfurling, soil drying out faster than it did in December. Do not overwater before the plant is actively growing — root rot peaks in late winter when gardeners water enthusiastically before plants are ready for it. The rule: water when the top inch of compost is dry for most houseplants, and when the top 2–3 inches are dry for succulents and cacti.
Resume feeding with a balanced liquid fertiliser (roughly 20-20-20 NPK) at half-strength from mid-February for actively growing plants. Do not feed plants that are still clearly dormant or struggling — fertiliser salts accumulate in the soil and cause root damage if the plant cannot process the nutrients.
Propagating from Cuttings
February is an excellent time to take stem cuttings from houseplants because increasing daylight triggers higher rooting hormone (auxin) production in plant tissue. Cuttings taken now root faster and more reliably than cuttings taken in the low-light months of December or January.
Good candidates for February cuttings: pothos, philodendron, tradescantia, begonias, geraniums (pelargoniums overwintered as stock plants), and fuchsias. Take 3–4 inch cuttings just below a node, remove the lower leaves, and insert into a free-draining rooting mix (50:50 perlite and compost works well). Cover with a clear propagator lid or plastic bag to maintain humidity. Most will root within 3–5 weeks in a warm, bright location.
Geraniums and pelargoniums overwintered as stock plants in a cool conservatory or garage should have their cuttings taken in February — these will produce flowering plants for May container displays and are far superior to plants that have been kept in warm, dark conditions all winter.
What to Order in February
Even if you cannot plant outdoors yet, February is the month for placing orders before the best varieties sell out:
- Bare-root roses — David Austin English roses, climbing roses, shrub roses. Order now for February/early March delivery and plant immediately on arrival.
- Dahlia tubers — Specialty dahlia suppliers sell out of popular varieties by March. Order café au lait, labyrinth, and dinnerplate varieties now.
- Seed potatoes — chit (pre-sprout) from February in a cool, light location. Plant outdoors in Zone 7+ from late February; Zone 5–6 from mid-April.
- Thompson & Morgan seed orders — If there are gaps in your seed tin, order now. Tomato and pepper varieties sell out fastest.
- Onion sets and shallots — for immediate planting in Zone 7+ or chitting indoors in Zone 5–6.
For a complete picture of what to plant every month through the year, see the year-round planting guide. And if you missed the January window, many of those indoor sowings — peppers, onions, celery — can still be started successfully in early February.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant outside in February?
It depends entirely on your USDA zone. Zone 7 and warmer gardeners can direct-sow peas, spinach, lettuce, and Asian greens outdoors from mid-February, and can plant bare-root roses and fruit trees. Zones 5–6 can plant bare-root roses on workable soil days and sow under cold frames. Zones 3–4 should stay indoors entirely in February; the ground is still frozen.
What flowers can I sow in February?
Indoors, February is ideal for sowing snapdragons (antirrhinum), pansies, begonias, geraniums (pelargonium), and sweet peas for the best results. All of these need 10–16 weeks from sowing to flowering, making February the right starting point for May–June blooms. In Zone 7+, you can also direct-sow hardy annuals like larkspur and cornflowers outdoors from mid-February.
Is it too late to order bare-root roses?
February is actually peak bare-root rose season, not too late. Most suppliers continue shipping bare-root roses through February and into early March, depending on dormancy. As long as the plants have not broken dormancy (started producing leaves), they can be planted successfully. Check the supplier’s availability and, if ordering now, specify that you want the earliest possible delivery date so you can plant before dormancy ends.
When should I start tomatoes indoors?
For most of the US, February is the correct time to start tomatoes indoors if your last frost falls between April 15 and May 15 (Zone 5–6). Tomatoes need 6–8 weeks indoors before they are ready to transplant. Starting earlier than this produces overgrown transplants that are harder to harden off and more susceptible to transplant shock. If your last frost is later (Zone 3–4), wait until March to start tomatoes.
What bulbs can I plant in February?
In Zone 6 and colder, February is too late for fall-planted spring bulbs (tulips, daffodils, crocus) — these needed to go in by November to bloom this spring. However, summer bulbs — including gladiolus corms and dahlia tubers — should be started into growth indoors in February for outdoor planting after the last frost. In Zone 9–10, you can plant dahlias, begonia tubers, and caladiums outdoors from late February.
Sources
- NC State Cooperative Extension. Home Vegetable Gardening. North Carolina State University.
- Oregon State University Extension Service. Growing Your Own: A Guide to Gardening in Oregon. OSU Extension.
- Purdue University Cooperative Extension. Vegetable Planting Calendar for Indiana. Purdue University.
- David Austin Roses. How to Plant Bare Root Roses. David Austin Roses Ltd.
