18 Philodendron Varieties: Which Are Easy to Find, Which Are Rare, and How to Tell Them Apart
Browse 18 philodendron varieties from common heartleaf to rare gloriosum — with ID tips, rarity tiers, and a choosing guide to match the right plant to your space.
Walk into any garden center in the US and you’ll find at least three or four philodendrons near the checkout. Walk into a specialist aroid nursery and you’ll find twenty — some so rare the price tag stops you cold. Between the $6 heartleaf on the bargain shelf and the $150 gloriosum in the climate-controlled back room, there’s an entire spectrum of varieties most plant guides treat as a single undifferentiated pile.
This guide separates them into three tiers — common, mid-range, and rare — and gives you one or two visual cues for each variety so you can identify them on sight. All 18 varieties are real species or confirmed cultivars, sourced from NC State Extension and the Royal Horticultural Society where available. Toxicity notes are included for each group, because all philodendrons are poisonous to cats, dogs, and children [1].
The Two Growth Forms: Your First Identification Tool
Before browsing varieties, pin down growth form. Every philodendron — all 600+ species — is either a climber (vining) or a self-header (non-climbing). According to NC State Extension, this single distinction controls shape, support needs, and how the plant fills a space [1].
Climbing philodendrons produce aerial roots and trail, cascade, or climb a moss pole. Self-heading types grow upright in a spreading rosette — no pole, just space to widen. The quickest visual check: look at the node where a leaf attaches. On climbers, the dried papery leaf sheath (cataphyll) stays attached for months after the leaf opens. On self-headers, it falls off within days, leaving a smooth, clean node. If the node looks neat, it’s self-heading. If papery brown wrapping clings to the stem, it’s a climber.
Among the 18 varieties below, climbers include heartleaf, Brasil, lemon lime, micans, silver sword, Pink Princess, White Knight, billietiae, and verrucosum. Self-headers include tree philodendron, Xanadu, Birkin, Moonlight, Prince of Orange, Imperial Red, Cream Splash, gloriosum (a ground-crawler — unique in this group), and Ring of Fire.
For a full guide on growing either type, see our complete philodendron growing guide.
Common Philodendron Varieties (Most Garden Centers and Home Improvement Stores)
These eight varieties show up reliably at Home Depot, Lowe’s, and most independent nurseries. They’re widely propagated, tolerant of beginner mistakes, and affordable — most under $20 for a 4-inch pot.
1. Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
ID cue: Smooth, glossy, bright green heart-shaped leaves, 3–6 inches long, on trailing stems. New leaves emerge bronze before turning green.
The heartleaf is the philodendron most people own without knowing its name. NC State Extension notes it can survive for long periods in extremely low light — a claim most houseplants can’t back up [2]. That genuinely sets it apart: I’ve kept one alive in a windowless office bathroom under a single fluorescent tube for over a year. The leaves stayed small (under 3 inches) but the plant didn’t die. No other variety on this list tolerates that kind of neglect.
Indoors it climbs or trails to 6 feet. USDA zones 11–12 for outdoor growth; treat as a houseplant everywhere else. If you’re unsure whether a plant is a heartleaf or a pothos, check the leaf base: philodendron hederaceum has a true heart shape with symmetrical lobes at the base; pothos leaves are asymmetrical and slightly waxy. (If you’re regularly confusing the two, our Brasil vs. neon pothos comparison covers all the differences.)
2. Brasil (Philodendron hederaceum ‘Brasil’)
ID cue: Same heart-shaped leaf as the heartleaf, but with a lime-green to yellow center stripe bordered by dark forest green.
Brasil is the variegated version of hederaceum, and the stripe pattern is stable enough that you rarely see reversion to solid green under typical home conditions. NC State Extension lists it as a confirmed cultivar with consistent lime-center, dark-border variegation [2]. The color intensity depends on light — in brighter indirect light the center stripe sharpens to near-yellow; in lower light it softens to light green.
Growth habit and care are identical to the plain heartleaf. If you see a trailing philodendron with a bold yellow-green stripe down the center of each leaf, it’s Brasil.
3. Lemon Lime (Philodendron hederaceum ‘Lemon Lime’)
ID cue: All-chartreuse to bright yellow-green foliage — the entire leaf, not just the center.
Lemon Lime is often confused with a neon pothos, which has similarly colored leaves. The difference: philodendron lemon lime has a matte surface and that characteristic symmetrical heart-shaped base; neon pothos has a slightly glossier, more waxy texture and asymmetrical leaf attachment. Both are trailing climbers and both tolerate medium light, though lemon lime’s color fades toward plain green in low-light conditions [2].
4. Philodendron Micans (Philodendron hederaceum var. hederaceum)
ID cue: Velvety, iridescent leaves that shift bronze to deep green depending on angle. Touch the leaf — micans feels like velvet; heartleaf feels smooth.
Micans is the same species as heartleaf but with a key structural difference: its leaves are covered in trichomes — microscopic hair-like structures that create the velvet texture and catch light at different angles, producing the characteristic bronze-to-green iridescence [10]. New leaves emerge pinkish-red before maturing. High humidity preserves the trichomes; in very dry air they become less prominent and the velvet effect dulls.
The touch test is the fastest ID check: heartleaf is smooth, micans is soft. Same trailing habit, same light tolerance, same care — the difference is purely tactile and visual.
5. Tree Philodendron / Selloum (Philodendron bipinnatifidum)
ID cue: Enormous, deeply lobed leaves up to 3 feet long on a self-heading plant that spreads wide rather than trailing.
The tree philodendron is the floor-to-ceiling statement plant of this genus. NC State Extension records it reaching 12–15 feet tall and wide as an outdoor foundation plant in warm climates; indoors it stays more modest but still needs serious floor space [1]. The RHS has awarded it the Award of Garden Merit for its structural presence [6].
The deeply dissected, lobed leaves — sometimes called split-leaf philodendron — distinguish it from every other variety on this list. It’s also one of the few that develops a visible woody trunk over time. Outdoor hardy in USDA zones 8b–11 with frost protection; reliable houseplant everywhere.
6. Xanadu (Philodendron xanadu, syn. Winterbourn)
ID cue: Dense, compact mound of deeply lobed glossy green leaves — like a scaled-down tree philodendron, 3–5 feet across and wide.
Xanadu and Winterbourn refer to the same plant; the Winterbourn cultivar name was never registered with the International Aroid Society and has no features distinguishing it from the species, per NC State Extension [4]. Don’t pay a premium for Winterbourn labeling.
The key difference between Xanadu and tree philodendron: Xanadu stays compact and mounding rather than developing a tall trunk. Its leaves are also smaller (12–18 inches versus 36 inches) and more uniformly lobed. Both are self-headers. Xanadu is one of the easier outdoor philodendrons in USDA zones 9b–11b — more cold-tolerant than most in this genus [4].
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→ Find the Right Pot7. Birkin (Philodendron hybrid)
ID cue: Dark glossy green self-heading leaves with delicate creamy-white pinstripes that radiate from the midrib. No two leaves have identical stripe patterns.
Birkin is a hybrid that emerged as a spontaneous mutation from Red Congo. Its pinstripe variegation is chimeral, meaning the white coloring comes from a layer of genetically distinct cells rather than a whole-plant mutation. This has a practical consequence: some leaves may revert to solid red-green (the Red Congo base), especially in lower light. More light and warmth typically keep the pinstripes stable [1]. For an in-depth comparison with another pinstriped variety, see our Birkin vs. White Princess breakdown.
8. Moonlight (Philodendron ‘Moonlight’)
ID cue: Self-heading rosette of elongated, paddle-shaped leaves that emerge vivid chartreuse and mature to soft mid-green.
Moonlight is essentially the self-heading answer to Lemon Lime — both feature yellow-green new growth, but Moonlight holds its lime color longer and the leaves are larger and lance-shaped rather than heart-shaped [1]. It’s a compact floor or shelf plant, 2 feet tall and wide, and one of the most reliable self-headers for bright indirect light indoors.
Mid-Range Philodendron Varieties (Specialty Plant Shops and Online Retailers)
These five are less common at big-box stores but not genuinely rare. You’ll find them consistently at independent plant shops and online retailers. Prices range from $20–$60 depending on size.
9. Prince of Orange (Philodendron erubescens ‘Prince of Orange’)
ID cue: Self-heading compact plant where every new leaf unfurls bright orange, shifts to copper over a week or two, then matures to deep green. The plant carries all three colors simultaneously.
This is the one philodendron that makes non-plant-people stop and look. The color progression is a chlorophyll-development process — orange pigments dominate the young leaf while the leaf’s cells are still differentiating; as chlorophyll accumulates, green overwrites the orange from base to tip [3]. NC State Extension confirms the compact, non-vining form reaching about 3 feet tall and wide [3].
10. Imperial Red (Philodendron ‘Imperial Red’)
ID cue: Self-heading rosette where new leaves emerge red, mature through burgundy, and settle into deep purple-green. Older leaves are noticeably darker than new growth.
Imperial Red is in the same visual family as Prince of Orange — both display dramatic color transitions — but where Prince of Orange shades toward warm tones, Imperial Red goes dark. The RHS has granted it recognition for consistent indoor performance [6]. Leaves are large, leathery, and oval rather than lobed. A dependable choice for anyone wanting color without variegation instability.
11. Silver Sword (Philodendron hastatum)
ID cue: Young leaves are arrow-shaped and reddish-orange; mature leaves become elongated, silvery-blue, and develop three distinct lobes with copper-colored undersides.
Silver Sword is the shape-shifter of this list. NC State Extension describes it climbing 10–15 feet indoors on a support, native to Southeast Brazil [5]. The metallic blue-silver color is real, not a trick of the light — the leaf surface contains structural cells that reflect light differently from typical green foliage. Give it a moss pole and it will reward you with progressively more dramatic mature leaves; without support it stays smaller and more juvenile in appearance.
12. Pink Princess (Philodendron erubescens ‘Pink Princess’)
ID cue: Dark purplish-green leaves with irregular pink variegation. New growth emerges from a deep red-purple spathe. No two leaves have the same pink pattern.
Pink Princess was briefly the most hyped houseplant on the market — plants sold for $200–$400 during peak demand. Tissue culture propagation has since made it widely available, and as of 2025 you can find it at many US retailers for $20–$50 [7]. The hype hasn’t fully left — variegation quality still affects price, with well-balanced pink patterns commanding premiums over mostly-green plants.
Know the difference between Pink Princess and Pink Congo. Pink Princess gets its coloring from a natural chimeral mutation — a genetic difference in a layer of cells that produces authentic, permanent variegation as long as the plant gets adequate light [7]. Pink Congo is a fraud variety: plants are injected with a growth hormone that temporarily turns leaves pink. That color fades completely within 6–12 months, leaving a plain green plant. If a seller can’t confirm the parentage or the plant is labeled only Pink Congo, ask questions before buying. Genuine Pink Princess leaves show irregular variegation patterns and the pink appears on new growth, not uniformly across all leaves [7].
13. Cream Splash (Philodendron hederaceum ‘Cream Splash’)
ID cue: Heart-shaped climbing leaves with a light green and cream center surrounded by mid-to-dark green borders — softer and paler than Brasil’s bright lime center.
Cream Splash is the muted sister to Brasil. Where Brasil’s variegation is high-contrast (lime yellow against dark green), Cream Splash is subtle — creamy white-to-light-green at the center blending softly into the border [2]. This makes it easier to pair with other plants but less dramatic as a solo specimen. Care and growth habit are identical to the other hederaceum cultivars.
Rare Philodendron Varieties (Specialist Aroid Nurseries, Waitlists, Collector Markets)
These five are genuinely hard to source through normal channels. Expect to pay $80–$200+ for established plants, find them at specialist aroid shops, plant fairs, or through online collector communities. They also tend to be more demanding in care — higher humidity, specific light conditions, slower growth.
14. White Knight (Philodendron erubescens ‘White Knight’)
ID cue: Dark green to purplish leaves with bold white to cream variegation patches, on stems with distinctive white-and-purple mottling. The stem coloring is a fast ID check.
White Knight is the rarest of the erubescens cultivars. While Pink Princess became widely tissue-cultured and affordable, White Knight has fewer confirmed propagators worldwide and remains genuinely scarce [3]. The white variegation is chimeral — same instability mechanism as Birkin and Pink Princess — meaning reversion to solid green is possible under poor light. Bright indirect light is non-negotiable for maintaining variegation. Leaves are similar in shape to Pink Princess but the stem mottling (white patches on a purple-tinted stem) is the quickest distinguishing feature.
15. Gloriosum (Philodendron gloriosum)
ID cue: Enormous velvet heart-shaped leaves up to 24 inches across with prominent white veins. Grows horizontally across the soil surface — it does not climb.
Gloriosum is the outlier on this list in more than one way. It’s a terrestrial crawler: the rhizome grows horizontally along the soil surface the way it would across a rainforest floor in Colombia, Mexico, Peru, Ecuador, and Venezuela [8]. Most philodendrons either climb or sit upright; gloriosum creeps sideways. This means it needs a wide, rectangular pot rather than a deep circular one — the rhizome has nowhere to go in a standard round container.
The leaves are the star: dark green, velvety, with veins that start pinkish on new growth and bleach to bright white as the leaf matures [8]. Indoor specimens reach 24 inches per leaf; in the wild they exceed 36 inches. Plan on one new leaf per 1–2 months. Rooted specimens cost over $100 at most retailers, and established multi-leaf plants routinely sell for $200+.
16. Billietiae (Philodendron billietiae)
ID cue: Long glossy green leaves with bright orange-yellow petioles (leaf stems) that are nearly as long as the leaf blade. Leaf margins are visibly wavy and ridged.
Billietiae was first found in 1981 by botanist Frieda Billiet in a lowland rainforest in French Guiana and formally described in 1995 [9]. The orange petiole is the single most reliable field ID for this species — no other common philodendron has that color stem. The wavy, ridged leaf margins (running the length of each leaf edge) are the secondary check. Native to Brazil, Guyana, and French Guiana, it’s a hemiepiphyte that starts life on trees before developing ground contact [9].
Provide a moss pole and expect slow establishment. Once settled, the leaves grow long and dramatic — mature specimens look unlike any other philodendron in a collection.
17. Verrucosum (Philodendron verrucosum)
ID cue: Velvety dark green heart-shaped leaves with prominent yellow-green veins. Petioles are hairy. Often confused with gloriosum — see the comparison note below.
Verrucosum is frequently sold alongside gloriosum and the two are confused often enough to warrant a direct comparison:
- Gloriosum: white veins, terrestrial crawler, needs wide pot, grows horizontally
- Verrucosum: yellow-green veins, climbing hemiepiphyte, hairy petioles, grows vertically on support
The vein color is the fastest check — white veins mean gloriosum, yellow-green veins mean verrucosum. Verrucosum also climbs and benefits from a moss pole, unlike the ground-dwelling gloriosum. Both prefer 60%+ humidity and temperatures above 65°F. Both are slow growers. Both are expensive.
18. Ring of Fire (Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’ / Henderson’s Pride)
ID cue: Self-heading with lance-shaped, ripple-edged leaves that emerge creamy white and transform to bold orange-red as they mature. Multicolored at all times.
Ring of Fire is a hybrid — the cross between P. tortum and P. wendlandii — and the color transformation in its leaves is what earns collector attention [11]. New leaves open creamy white, shift through orange, and mature to red tones, while older leaves have already settled to deep green. A healthy plant always displays cream, orange, red, and green simultaneously.
It grows slowly even by philodendron standards, which limits propagation supply and keeps prices high. As a self-header reaching 3–4 feet, it works well as a floor plant in bright indirect light. Direct sun washes out the variegation; too little light reduces the orange-red intensity.
All 18 Varieties at a Glance
| Variety | Growth Form | Key ID Feature | Availability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Heartleaf | Climber | Smooth glossy green heart; bronze new growth | Common | Low-light rooms, beginners |
| Brasil | Climber | Lime-green center stripe on dark green | Common | Color without complexity |
| Lemon Lime | Climber | All-chartreuse leaves, matte surface | Common | Bright shelves, color pop |
| Micans | Climber | Velvet touch, bronze iridescence | Common | Texture hunters, trailing display |
| Tree Philodendron | Self-header | 36-inch deeply lobed leaves, woody trunk | Common | Floor statement, outdoor warm climates |
| Xanadu | Self-header | Compact mound of smaller lobed leaves | Common | Tidier alternative to tree philodendron |
| Birkin | Self-header | Dark green with white pinstripes | Common | Desk or small shelf accent |
| Moonlight | Self-header | Chartreuse paddle leaves maturing to mid-green | Common | Bright indirect light, compact spaces |
| Prince of Orange | Self-header | Orange to copper to green color cycle per leaf | Mid-range | Color display without variegation instability |
| Imperial Red | Self-header | Red to burgundy to purple-green new leaves | Mid-range | Dark dramatic foliage |
| Silver Sword | Climber | Metallic blue-silver with tri-lobed mature leaves | Mid-range | Vertical accent on moss pole |
| Pink Princess | Climber | Dark purplish leaves with natural pink patches | Mid-range | Collectors, color contrast |
| Cream Splash | Climber | Cream-center heart leaf, soft contrast | Mid-range | Subtle variegation, mixed displays |
| White Knight | Climber | White-and-purple mottled stems, white leaf patches | Rare | Serious variegation collectors |
| Gloriosum | Ground crawler | 24-inch velvet hearts, white veins, horizontal growth | Rare | Statement collector plant |
| Billietiae | Climber | Orange petioles, wavy ridged leaf margins | Rare | Dramatic architectural form |
| Verrucosum | Climber | Velvet leaves, yellow-green veins, hairy petioles | Rare | Velvet collector alternative to gloriosum |
| Ring of Fire | Self-header | Cream to orange to red leaf transformation | Rare | Multicolor collector display |
Choosing the Right Philodendron for Your Space
The variety that suits you best depends less on aesthetic preference and more on three practical questions.
How much light can you offer? Heartleaf, Brasil, and micans tolerate medium to low indirect light — any north or east-facing window will do. Most mid-range and all rare varieties need bright indirect light to maintain variegation and healthy growth. Gloriosum and verrucosum need high humidity on top of good light, which rules them out for dry climates without a humidifier.
How much horizontal space do you have? Self-headers spread outward, not upward. Tree philodendron and Xanadu can reach 4–5 feet across; Birkin and Moonlight stay under 2 feet. Climbers take up floor space only if they trail without support; on a moss pole they stay vertical and relatively narrow.
What’s your experience level? A natural sequence exists here: start with heartleaf or Brasil (near-indestructible), move to Prince of Orange or Silver Sword once you have basic care down, then add Pink Princess when you’re confident managing variegation, and save gloriosum or verrucosum for when you can provide consistent humidity and are ready to pay $100+ for a single plant. Rushing to the collector tier before establishing good watering habits usually ends with an expensive loss. For propagation tips to expand your collection once you’re ready, see our philodendron propagation guide.
A Note on Toxicity
All philodendrons — every variety on this list — contain calcium oxalate crystals in their leaves, stems, sap, and roots. If ingested, these crystals cause immediate oral irritation, swelling of the lips and tongue, drooling, and difficulty swallowing. NC State Extension classifies all philodendron species as toxic to cats, dogs, and children [1]. The RHS advises wearing gloves when handling, as the sap can irritate skin on contact [6].
Position all philodendrons out of reach of pets and children, regardless of variety. There is no non-toxic philodendron. If you want a similar trailing or climbing look with zero toxicity risk, pothos is the closest alternative — see our comparison of philodendrons and similar aroids for the full picture.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the rarest philodendron?
Among the 18 varieties covered here, White Knight, gloriosum, billietiae, and verrucosum are the hardest to source. Gloriosum is particularly scarce because its terrestrial rhizome grows too slowly for mass propagation and it doesn’t tissue-culture as easily as climbing varieties. Beyond this list, species like Philodendron joepii and Philodendron spiritus-sancti are near-extinct in the wild and cost thousands of dollars for a single cutting on the collector market.
Is Pink Princess the same as Pink Congo?
No, and the distinction matters. Pink Princess has natural chimeral variegation — a genetic difference in a layer of cells — that produces permanent pink coloring when the plant receives adequate light. Pink Congo is treated with a growth hormone that induces temporary pink color; it fades to plain green within 6–12 months. If a seller cannot confirm Pink Princess parentage, ask for provenance before buying [7].
Can philodendrons grow in low light?
The heartleaf philodendron genuinely tolerates low light better than most houseplants — NC State Extension notes it can survive for extended periods in extremely low light conditions [2]. Brasil, micans, and lemon lime are also reasonably tolerant. Variegated varieties (Birkin, Pink Princess, White Knight) and all rare varieties need bright indirect light to maintain their color and grow at a reasonable rate. Low light doesn’t kill them quickly, but it will cause variegation to fade and growth to stall.
Sources
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox — Philodendron genus
- NC State Extension — Philodendron hederaceum (Heartleaf, Brasil, Lemon Lime, Cream Splash)
- NC State Extension — Philodendron erubescens (Prince of Orange, Pink Princess, White Princess)
- NC State Extension — Philodendron xanadu (Xanadu / Winterbourn)
- NC State Extension — Philodendron hastatum (Silver Sword)
- RHS Growing Guide — Philodendron
- Soltech — From Rare Find to Everyday Icon: The Real Story of the Pink Princess Philodendron in 2025
- Leafyplace — Philodendron gloriosum: Plant Care and Growing Guide
- Wikipedia — Philodendron billietiae
- Gardener’s Path — How to Grow and Care for Philodendron Micans
- Plant Addicts — Ring of Fire Variegated Philodendron
