Beyond the Flamingo Flower: 8 Anthurium Types Worth Growing (Including 3 for Beginners)

Walk into any garden center and you’ll find anthurium in exactly one form: that glossy red spathe with a straight yellow spadix, the flamingo flower. It earns its popularity — it tolerates neglect, blooms for months, and asks for little more than indirect light and a basic watering routine.

But with more than 1,300 species in the genus [1], the flamingo flower is the most accessible member, not the most interesting. A second group — the velvet-leaf anthuriums, with their matte, deeply veined foliage — has become some of the most coveted houseplants available. Their care requirements differ enough from the flowering types to catch growers off guard.

This guide covers eight anthurium types worth growing, organized from beginner-friendly to collector-level. Three suit any experience level. Four need deliberate humidity management. One is a genuine challenge. Along the way, we’ll explain the why behind the care differences — because understanding what makes a velvet leaf different from a waxy spathe is what separates successful growers from frustrated ones.

Two Different Worlds: Flowering vs. Foliage Anthuriums

The key to understanding anthurium varieties is recognizing that the genus splits into two functionally different groups with fundamentally different care profiles.

Flowering anthuriums — principally A. andraeanum and A. scherzerianum — are grown for their spathes: the modified leaf, technically a bract, that most people mistake for a petal. These spathes are waxy and resilient, and the plants that produce them have evolved to tolerate significant variation in humidity, light, and temperature.

Velvet-leaf anthuriums — clarinervium, crystallinum, veitchii, warocqueanum, magnificum — belong to a botanical section called Cardiolonchium. Their leaves are covered in microscopic trichomes: tiny, flattened hair-like structures that create the characteristic matte, fabric-like texture. These trichomes trap moisture at the leaf surface and scatter light in ways that make the veins appear to glow. They also desiccate quickly if ambient humidity drops, and are scorched by direct sun far more readily than waxy foliage. The care that keeps a flamingo flower thriving can leave a queen anthurium in tatters.

The 3 Beginner-Friendly Anthurium Types

Anthurium andraeanum — The Flamingo Flower

The flamingo flower is the best starting point for a reason: it’s the most forgiving anthurium you can buy. Its waxy, heart-shaped spathe lasts six weeks or more on the plant and remains viable for up to two weeks as a cut flower [5]. Colors run from classic red through pink, white, lavender, coral, and purple. Three cultivars to know: ‘Acropolis’ (white spathe, creamy-white spadix), ‘Baron’ (compact, pink with green edges), and ‘Florida’ (bright red) [1].

Keep humidity between 60–80%, temperatures between 65–80°F (18–27°C), and give it bright indirect light — a north- or east-facing windowsill works well [1]. Water when the top inch of compost dries out, and use a high-phosphorus fertilizer to encourage blooming [2]. Andraeanum tolerates drier air better than any foliage type, which makes it workable even in centrally heated homes without a humidifier.

One useful fact: andraeanum is USDA zones 11–12 outdoors, which means it’s a permanent houseplant for most of the world [1]. Its tropical origins explain why it does best away from cold drafts and exterior walls in winter.

Anthurium scherzerianum — The Pigtail Anthurium

Often sold alongside andraeanum and easily confused with it, scherzerianum is distinguished by one unmistakable feature: its spadix curls into a corkscrew rather than standing straight. Leaves are narrower and lance-shaped rather than heart-shaped, and the plant stays compact — typically under 30 cm (12 inches) — making it better suited to bookshelves and small windowsills than the larger andraeanum.

Scherzerianum tolerates average household humidity (50–60%) better than most anthuriums, which makes it particularly suited to apartments without humidifiers. Care requirements overlap closely with andraeanum: bright indirect light, watering when the top inch dries, and a well-draining acidic mix. If you want the flamingo flower look with a compact footprint, this is the one.

Anthurium hookeri — The Bird’s Nest Anthurium

Hookeri doesn’t produce showy spathes or velvet leaves. Instead, it forms a spreading rosette of long, upright, strap-shaped leaves — 60–90 cm (2–3 feet) — with dark purple undersides that draw the eye as effectively as any bloom [2]. The rosette catches fallen debris from above in its native habitat, which decomposes to provide nutrients — a piece of evolutionary biology that explains why it’s comfortable in heavier, more organic potting mixes than the epiphytic velvet species.

It’s terrestrial rather than epiphytic, more tolerant of irregular watering, and less demanding of precise humidity than any of the foliage types that follow. If you want an architectural, statement foliage plant without the maintenance of the velvet-leaf group, hookeri is the answer.

Anthurium Variety Comparison

The Velvet League: Intermediate to Advanced Foliage Types

Anthurium clarinervium — The Velvet Cardboard Anthurium

Clarinervium is the natural entry point into velvet-leaf collecting. Its leaves are deep green and genuinely heart-shaped — with a clean split at the base that makes the shape more distinct than crystallinum’s more elongated form — with cream or white venation that glows even in moderate light. The trichome-covered surface feels like thick, damp velvet and is thinner and more delicate than it looks.

The step up from beginner anthuriums is humidity: clarinervium needs a consistent 60–70%. Below that, leaf margins begin to crisp and new growth struggles to unfurl cleanly. The RHS-recommended potting mix of two parts peat-free ericaceous compost, one part perlite, and one part orchid bark works well [3]. Allow the top inch to dry before watering — clarinervium is more drought-tolerant than crystallinum. It produces small orange berries rather than showy spathes, so approach it as a foliage plant.

Its compact form — 45–60 cm — makes clarinervium more practical than other velvet species. A bathroom shelf, glass cabinet, or a spot near a humidifier are all workable long-term environments.

Anthurium crystallinum — The Crystal Anthurium

Nicknamed the Ace of Spades for its elongated, spade-shaped leaves, crystallinum is the flashier of the two most commonly encountered velvet types. The veins are silvery rather than cream, and they shimmer in good light — an optical effect produced by the trichomes around the vein channels catching light at a slightly different angle than the surrounding leaf tissue.

Where clarinervium allows the top inch to dry between waterings, crystallinum prefers consistently moist (never soggy) compost. Humidity needs to sit at 70–80% to produce the vividly veined, large leaves that make this species worth growing — below 60%, new leaves emerge smaller and paler, and vein contrast reduces noticeably.

The two species are frequently confused at nurseries. The reliable difference: clarinervium has a distinctly heart-shaped leaf base with a clear separation at the top, and its berries are orange. Crystallinum’s leaf is more elongated, and its berries are white to violet.

Anthurium veitchii — The King Anthurium

Named after Scottish horticulturist John Veitch, who introduced exotic species to Victorian-era horticulture, veitchii earns its “King” title through scale: leaves reach 120–180 cm (4–6 feet) in good conditions, deeply corrugated with parallel ribbing that runs lengthwise like a folded fan [6]. Juvenile leaves look nothing like mature ones — they emerge small, bronze, and heart-shaped before elongating and developing the characteristic quilted texture over months.

There are two collector forms: the narrow form (many closely spaced ribs) and the wide form (fewer, more pronounced ribs). Both are epiphytic in nature, evolving to anchor themselves to trees rather than rooting in soil — a chunky, fast-draining bark-based mix works far better than standard potting compost, which retains too much moisture against these roots [6].

Humidity of 60–70% keeps veitchii functional and supports clean leaf unfurling. The real challenge isn’t care — it’s space. Mature leaves won’t fit on a windowsill. This is a plant for high ceilings and dedicated growers.

Anthurium warocqueanum — The Queen Anthurium

If veitchii is large, warocqueanum is demanding. The Queen Anthurium produces pendant, narrow leaves up to 150–180 cm (5–6 feet) with an intensely velvety surface and prominent silver veins. Unlike the broad, heart-shaped foliage of clarinervium or magnificum, warocqueanum leaves are elongated and the plant typically maintains only one or two at a time under home conditions — new growth often triggers the die-back of an older leaf.

Humidity requirements are the highest of any species here: 70–80% consistently, with growth stalling noticeably below 65%. The root system is small relative to the leaf size, which makes overwatering a persistent risk despite the plant’s tropical origins. A greenhouse cabinet, a purpose-built humidity tent, or a bathroom with strong diffused light are the most reliable indoor environments for long-term success.

Warocqueanum is not a beginner’s plant, or even a comfortable intermediate plant. It rewards patient, precise growers who understand their home’s microclimate and find satisfaction in careful, slow cultivation.

Anthurium magnificum — The Magnificent Anthurium

For collectors who want the velvet-leaf aesthetic without warocqueanum’s demands, magnificum offers a middle path. Its leaves are broad, symmetrical, and heart-shaped — closer to clarinervium’s silhouette than warocqueanum’s — with embossed-looking pale venation that appears almost three-dimensional at close range. Mature leaves reach 60–90 cm. Native to Colombia and Ecuador, magnificum sits in the same Cardiolonchium section as the other velvet-leaf species here.

Humidity of 60–70% keeps it happy; allow the top two inches to dry between waterings; and use a chunky bark-based mix to prevent root rot. It’s more forgiving than warocqueanum but carries a premium price — growers who master clarinervium first will have a much better success rate with magnificum.

Universal Care Principles for All Anthurium Types

Across all eight varieties, four principles apply consistently.

Soil: The RHS recommends two parts peat-free ericaceous compost, one part perlite, and one part medium orchid bark [3]. This maintains acidity (pH below 6.0 [2]), aeration, and drainage — the three conditions all species require regardless of their humidity or watering differences.

Water: Use rainwater or filtered water at room temperature. Hard tap water raises soil pH over time, locking out nutrients and causing yellowing that’s often misdiagnosed as nitrogen deficiency. The watering frequency differs by species (see the comparison table), but water quality applies universally.

Fertilizer: For flowering types, a high-phosphorus fertilizer encourages spathe production [2]. For foliage types, orchid fertilizer applied monthly during the growing season (April to October) supports leaf development without pushing the soft, rapid growth that’s most vulnerable to pests [3]. Our guide to fertilising houseplants covers timing and dilution in more detail.

Repotting: Anthuriums prefer slightly pot-bound conditions. Aerial roots are normal and should not be buried — they absorb moisture from the air and should be allowed to grow freely. Repot only when roots circle the container base, moving up one pot size at a time.

Safety: Calcium Oxalates in Every Anthurium Species

Every anthurium species — from the easiest flamingo flower to the rarest warocqueanum — contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals throughout all plant parts: leaves, stems, roots, and spathe. The ASPCA lists anthurium as toxic to dogs, cats, and horses [4].

Clinical signs of ingestion include oral irritation, pain and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting (less common in horses), and difficulty swallowing [4]. Unlike soluble oxalates, insoluble calcium oxalate crystals cannot be broken down by digestion — they cause mechanical irritation through their needle-shaped crystal structure (raphides) when plant tissue is damaged or chewed.

Keep all anthuriums out of reach of children and pets. If ingestion is suspected, contact the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. Sap contact with skin causes irritation in some people — wear gloves when repotting [3].

Frequently Asked Questions

Which anthurium is best for a complete beginner?

Start with Anthurium andraeanum — it’s the most forgiving of humidity fluctuations and rewards basic care with blooms that last six weeks or more [1]. If you want foliage over flowers, A. hookeri is the most tolerant foliage option.

Can I grow anthuriums in a bathroom?

Yes — and for the velvet-leaf types especially, a bathroom with natural light is ideal. Steam from daily showers naturally raises humidity toward the 60–80% range most species prefer [3]. Avoid positioning directly next to cold exterior windows.

Why are my anthurium’s leaf edges turning brown?

Brown leaf edges almost always indicate low humidity. The cells at the leaf margin desiccate first as the plant prioritizes moisture for central tissue. Raise ambient humidity using a gravel tray, grouping plants together, or a small humidifier. Misting velvet-leaf types directly is not recommended — water sitting on trichomes promotes fungal growth.

The Anthurium Growing Guide covers the foundational care principles that apply across the genus, including potting schedules, pest management, and propagation methods.

Sources

1. Anthurium andraeanum — NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
2. Anthurium — NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
3. How to Grow Anthuriums — RHS
4. Flamingo Flower (Anthurium) Toxicity — ASPCA
5. Anthuriums — UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions
6. Anthurium Veitchii: 7 Growing Tips for the King Anthurium — Ohio Tropics