How to Grow Catmint: Plant It Once, Watch It Bloom From June to Frost
Most gardeners overlook catmint because they confuse it with catnip. Here’s why this drought-proof perennial blooms June to frost with zero fuss.
Most perennials make you work for your flowers. Catmint (Nepeta × faassenii) does the opposite. Plant it in a sunny, well-drained spot and it blooms from June until frost — sometimes with two full flushes in a single season — without irrigation, fertilizer, or constant deadheading.
There’s one piece of confusion worth clearing up before you buy: catmint and catnip are not the same plant. Catmint is a sterile garden hybrid; catnip (N. cataria) is the species that sends most cats into euphoric rolls. Only about 10–15% of cats show mild interest in catmint, so your garden beds are unlikely to attract neighborhood disruption. What they will attract is bees — catmint is one of the most reliable pollinator magnets for a temperate perennial border.
This guide covers which varieties to choose, the single shearing technique that doubles your bloom season, how to use catmint in the garden, and what goes wrong (rarely) and how to fix it.
Catmint vs. Catnip: Why the Confusion Matters
The most common reason gardeners avoid catmint is mistaken identity. Catmint (Nepeta × faassenii) and catnip (Nepeta cataria) are close relatives but completely different plants — and mixing them up leads to wrong expectations in both directions.
Catnip (N. cataria) is a coarse, weedy species that self-seeds prolifically, reaches 3 feet, and produces high concentrations of nepetalactone — the volatile compound that triggers the rolling, drooling frenzy in cats. About 50–70% of cats react strongly to it. Given the chance, it will colonize a bed and outcompete tidier plants. It’s not what you want in a border.
Catmint (N. × faassenii) is a sterile hybrid — a cross between N. racemosa and N. nepetella. Being sterile means it cannot set seed. Here’s the mechanism that makes catmint such an unusually long bloomer: a plant that can’t complete its reproductive cycle keeps producing flowers indefinitely in the attempt. That’s why catmint blooms from June all the way to frost, while many perennials fade after a single flush. Remove the spent flowers and it simply starts again.
As for the cat question — yes, catmint contains trace amounts of nepetalactone, but far below the concentration in true catnip. Only about 10–15% of cats show mild interest in catmint, compared to the 50–70% strong reaction that catnip triggers. Your garden borders are unlikely to become a neighborhood cat magnet.
Two practical consequences of that sterile hybrid status: catmint will never self-sow and fill unwanted space, and you cannot save seed to propagate it. Division and softwood cuttings are the only routes to making more plants — which is fine, because established clumps are long-lived.
The Best Catmint Varieties to Grow
N. × faassenii has spawned dozens of named cultivars. These four are the most widely available and the most reliably documented by university and horticultural society trials:
| Variety | Height × Width | Zones | Key Feature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Walker’s Low | 18–24 in × 24–30 in | 4–8 | 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year; arching habit resists flopping |
| Six Hills Giant | 24–36 in × 30–36 in | 4–8 | RHS Award of Garden Merit; bold impact in large borders |
| Cat’s Meow | 16–18 in × 20–24 in | 3–9 | 2025 Landscape Perennial of the Year; compact and heat-tolerant |
| Junior Walker | 14–16 in × 16–20 in | 4–8 | Compact version of Walker’s Low; ideal for small borders and containers |
Walker’s Low deserves its own origin story, because its name confuses almost everyone. It is not low-growing — it’s named after a garden. The cultivar began as an accidental hybrid in Mrs. Walker’s garden in Ireland, where a horticulturalist named Patricia Taylor spotted its potential in the 1970s and took cuttings. Four Seasons Nursery in Norwich, England, introduced it commercially in 1988. The hybrid genus name Nepeta × faassenii honors J.H. Faassen, the Dutch nurseryman who created the first deliberate crosses of these species in the 1930s. In full bloom, expect 18–24 inches of height with flower stems arching outward to 24–30 inches — that arching habit is exactly why Walker’s Low doesn’t flop the way ‘Six Hills Giant’ can in fertile soil.
Light and Soil Requirements
Catmint’s requirements are more forgiving than most border perennials, but one rule is non-negotiable: drainage.
Light: Aim for at least six hours of direct sun daily. Below that threshold, plants get leggy, bloom less freely, and become more susceptible to powdery mildew. In the South (zones 7–9), afternoon shade helps plants through peak summer heat without significantly reducing flowering. In zones 4–6, full sun produces the densest bloom.
Soil: Catmint tolerates clay, loam, sand, and even shallow rocky soils. It performs better in moderately fertile ground than in heavily amended, rich soil — too much fertility promotes floppy, leafy growth at the direct expense of flowers. The one condition it will not survive is permanently wet ground. Water sitting against the crown over winter or spring causes crown rot and kills plants outright, even when the variety is technically hardy to your zone. On heavy clay sites, plant on a slight slope or in a raised area so the crown drains freely.
pH: Wide tolerance — acid, neutral, or slightly alkaline all work. Catmint thrives in the same thin, well-drained conditions where lavender, salvia, and sedum excel, and all make excellent neighbors. See our full list of drought-tolerant flowers for companion plant ideas that share these growing conditions.
How to Plant Catmint
The planting window is generous: spring after last frost through early fall. In zones 4–5, avoid planting in autumn — roots need time to anchor before freeze-thaw cycles begin heaving the crown.
Spacing: 18–24 inches for most varieties; ‘Six Hills Giant’ benefits from 24–30 inches. Tight spacing limits airflow and encourages powdery mildew, so err on the generous side. Plants fill in quickly within one growing season.
Planting steps:
- Dig a hole slightly wider and the same depth as the root ball. No need to amend the backfill with compost unless your soil is near-pure rubble.
- Set the crown at or just above soil level. Burying it promotes rot.
- Water in thoroughly.
- Apply 2 inches of bark mulch around — but not touching — the stems.
First-season watering: Until the root system establishes, water once weekly during dry spells. Established plants rarely need supplemental water in zones 4–7 except during extended drought. In zones 8–9, weekly deep watering through summer heat sustains flowering through the hottest months.
Watering, Feeding, and Routine Care
Watering: Once established, catmint is genuinely drought-tolerant — in a typical temperate summer, rainfall alone is usually sufficient for in-ground plants in zones 4–7. Water only during extended dry periods of two or more weeks. Overwatering is the more common mistake: yellowing foliage and stems that flop prematurely signal the plant is sitting too wet, not too dry. Let the soil dry partially between waterings.
Fertilizing: Don’t. Catmint is adapted to lean soils, and adding nitrogen-heavy fertilizer promotes floppy, leafy growth at the direct expense of flowering and compact habit. If your soil is extremely impoverished, a single light application of balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring is the absolute maximum. Skip it entirely if you want dense flowers over lush foliage.
Powdery mildew: This is catmint’s main vulnerability — a white powdery coating on leaves, most common after the first bloom flush when plants are dense and airflow is reduced. The fix and the prevention are the same: the mid-season shearing described in the next section removes infected material and opens the plant canopy. Adequate plant spacing and full sun prevent most outbreaks before they start.
The Shearing Technique That Doubles Your Bloom Season
This is the single most important thing you can do for catmint, and it takes about five minutes.
After the first bloom flush fades — typically late June to mid-July in zones 4–7 — shear the entire plant back by half to two-thirds. Not just deadheading spent flowers: cut the whole plant down hard with hedge clippers or shears. It will look brutal for about a week. Then watch what happens.
Why it works: Catmint’s lateral buds are suppressed by the growing tips through apical dominance. Remove the spent flowering stems and that suppression ends simultaneously across the whole plant. Lateral buds activate and push out fresh growth topped with new flowering spikes — usually within three to four weeks. The second bloom is typically as strong as the first, and in a favorable late summer a third light flush in September is possible.
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→ View My Garden CalendarWithout shearing: Plants go woody and untidy after the first flush, stop producing new flowers, and spend the rest of summer as an amorphous gray-green mound. The sterile hybrid mechanism that keeps catmint trying to set seed only functions when you remove the spent material that signals the first attempt has ended. I’ve watched this transformation happen every July — a plant that looked finished by mid-month comes back stronger than ever by August, simply because the spent stems were removed.
Cultivar differences and flopping: ‘Walker’s Low’ resists flopping because its flower stems arch outward naturally rather than growing straight up — they support each other at the tips. ‘Six Hills Giant’ is more upright and prone to leaning after the first flush in fertile soil; cutting it back hard in early June before the first flush opens (the Chelsea Chop approach) keeps it compact. ‘Cat’s Meow’ and ‘Junior Walker’ are compact enough that flopping is rarely a concern at all.
Seasonal Care Calendar
| Month (Zones 4–7) | Task | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| March–April | Cut dead stems to new basal growth | New shoots visible at crown base; cut to 4–6 in above ground |
| April–May | Plant or divide | Best establishment window; soil above 50°F |
| May–June | Peak first bloom — no action needed | Water weekly if dry during first growing season |
| Late June–mid-July | Shear entire plant back by half to two-thirds | Most important task of the year; triggers second flush |
| August–September | Enjoy second bloom | Water during extended drought (2+ weeks without rain) |
| October | Leave stems standing | Provides winter structure; light insulation for crown |
| November (Z4–5) | Apply light mulch after ground cools | 2 inches of bark; prevents freeze-thaw crown heave |
In zones 8–9 the timeline shifts earlier: first bloom arrives in April–May, the shearing cutback falls in June, and the second flush runs through July and into August.
Catmint in the Garden — Design and Companion Plants
Few perennials are as versatile along a border edge. The soft lavender-blue flower spikes and gray-green foliage bridge almost any color palette — they soften bright pinks, deepen purples, and make white-flowered plants glow.
The classic pairing is catmint with roses. Planted along a rose border edge, catmint’s billowing form covers bare lower rose stems while both bloom simultaneously in June. The RHS has long promoted this combination: both tolerate alkaline and chalky soils, both need good drainage, and both benefit from a midsummer cutback. The silvery foliage reflects evening light beautifully against dark rose stems and canes.
For pollinators, catmint ranks among the highest-value perennials you can grow in a temperate border. Bumblebees work the flowers continuously through the long bloom period, and that extended season — June to frost — provides continuity that short-season perennials cannot match. Explore more options in our guide to flowers that attract bees and butterflies.
Other strong combinations:
- Alliums — purple globes in late May and June overlap with catmint’s first flush for a rich purple-on-purple effect
- Salvia nemorosa — similar gray-green mounding habit with complementary deep purple; both benefit from a midsummer shearing
- Rudbeckia and coreopsis — warm yellow contrast to catmint’s cool blue in late summer
- Stachys byzantina (lamb’s ears) — shared silver-gray foliage creates a cohesive textural planting in a dry, sunny border
Catmint vs. lavender is a frequent design question — the two share gray foliage, lavender flowers, drought tolerance, and full sun requirements, but behave differently in the garden and have distinct pruning needs. Our detailed catmint vs. lavender comparison covers which plant suits which situation.
How to Propagate Catmint
Because N. × faassenii is sterile, it produces no viable seed. All propagation must be vegetative.
Division is the easiest approach. Dig the clump in early spring when new shoots are 2–3 inches tall, split it into sections of 3–5 shoots each with a good root mass, and replant immediately at 18–24 inch spacing. Established plants don’t need frequent division — every four to five years is typical, triggered by a declining center or reduced flowering. Discard the woody central core and replant only the vigorous outer sections.
Softwood cuttings taken in June or July root in about four weeks. Take 3-inch non-flowering tip cuttings, remove the lower leaves, and insert them into a 50/50 perlite–compost mix under a humidity dome at 65–70°F. This method is useful when you need to increase stock without disturbing a mature, well-established clump.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| White powder on leaves | Powdery mildew (fungal) | Shear plant back hard immediately to remove infected material; improve spacing and sun exposure for future prevention |
| Plant flops or collapses after first bloom | Normal post-flush behavior; worsened by rich soil or shade | Shear back to half height; reduce or eliminate fertilizer entirely |
| No second bloom after shearing | Shearing done after mid-August, or too lightly | Shear before mid-July and remove at least half the plant’s height |
| Yellowing foliage with soft, spongy stems | Overwatering or crown rot from poor drainage | Improve drainage; reduce watering. Severe crown rot: remove plant and avoid replanting Nepeta in the same spot for 2 years |
| Cats rolling in or digging the plant | Mild nepetalactone response — affects roughly 10–15% of cats | Lay wire mesh under mulch around plants; surround with prickly companions |
| No flowering in second year | Part shade; or excessive nitrogen from fertilizing | Move to full sun; withhold all fertilizer for the current season |
| Dead center, vigorous outer ring | Natural aging after 4–5 years | Divide in spring; discard woody center; replant vigorous outer sections at 18–24 inch spacing |
Frequently Asked Questions
Is catmint the same as catnip?
No. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a different species — coarser, self-seeding, and high in nepetalactone, which causes the classic feline reaction in 50–70% of cats. Catmint (N. × faassenii) is a sterile ornamental hybrid with only trace amounts of nepetalactone; only about 10–15% of cats show mild interest.
Will catmint spread or become invasive?
No. As a sterile hybrid it doesn’t produce viable seeds and will never self-sow. The clump expands slowly over years but is easily managed by division every four to five years.
How cold-hardy is catmint?
‘Walker’s Low’ is reliably hardy to USDA zone 4 and documented to succeed in zone 3. The species N. × faassenii is generally rated zones 4–8 by extension services; some sources cite zone 5 as the lower limit. Check the specific cultivar label for hardiness.
Why is my catmint not reblooming after I sheared it?
Either the shearing was done after mid-August (insufficient time for lateral buds to produce a full flush before first frost) or too lightly (only deadheading spent flower tips rather than a full cutback). Shear the entire plant down by at least half in late June to mid-July for reliable results.
Can I grow catmint in a container?
Yes. Use a pot at least 12 inches wide with a free-draining potting mix. Containers dry out faster than garden soil, so weekly summer watering is typical. Compact cultivars — ‘Junior Walker’ and ‘Cat’s Meow’ — are better suited to containers than ‘Six Hills Giant’.
Do deer eat catmint?
Rarely. The aromatic volatile compounds in the foliage make it unattractive to deer and rabbits, which is a significant advantage in gardens where both are regular visitors.
Sources
- Nepeta x faassenii (Blue Catmint) — NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
- Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’ — NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
- Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’ — Wisconsin Horticulture Extension
- Nepeta (Cat mint) — Royal Horticultural Society
- Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) — Illinois Extension
- Catmint ‘Walker’s Low’ Named 2007 Perennial of the Year — Purdue Consumer Horticulture
- Walker’s Low Catmint — Plant of the Week — University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension
- Catnip vs. Catmint: What’s the Difference? — Old Farmer’s Almanac
