Bare-Root Plants: What They Are, How to Plant in January and Why They’re 30% Cheaper Than Potted
Everything you need to know about bare root plants — what they are, why they’re better value than container plants, when to buy, and exactly how to plant and care for them.
Bare Root Plants: The Complete Guide to Buying, Planting & Care
If you’ve ever wandered past a stack of bare-looking, soil-free bundles at a garden centre in winter and wondered what they were, you’ve encountered bare-root plants. They look unpromising — just roots and dormant stems — but they’re one of the best-value, best-performing options for establishing trees, shrubs, roses, and perennials in your garden.
This guide explains exactly what bare-root plants are, why experienced gardeners prefer them, when and how to plant them, and how to care for them in the first year.
What Are Bare Root Plants?
Bare-root plants are dormant plants that have been grown in the ground (usually in nursery fields), then lifted and sold with their roots exposed — without any soil, compost, or pot around them. They’re typically sold wrapped in hessian, plastic bags with moist sawdust, or loose in bundles at nurseries and garden centres.
The absence of a pot or compost isn’t a problem: during dormancy, plants are in a resting state with minimal metabolic activity. Their roots are adapted to absorb water and nutrients when growth resumes, and when planted correctly in winter, they establish before spring arrives — often more vigorously than container-grown equivalents.
Bare-root plants are only available during the dormant season — broadly November to March in the UK, before dormant buds start to break into growth. Outside this window, plants must be sold in containers.
Why Buy Bare Root?
The advantages are compelling:
- Significantly cheaper: Bare-root roses typically cost £5–12 versus £15–25 for a container equivalent. A bare-root hedge of 100 hawthorn whips might cost £30–50 versus £200+ for the same in pots. The saving is real and substantial.
- Wider variety: Mail-order nurseries offering bare-root stock carry far more varieties than any garden centre can stock in containers — particularly for roses, fruit trees, and hedging.
- Better establishment in many cases: Bare-root plants develop roots into the surrounding soil without the transition from pot compost to garden soil. Container-grown plants sometimes struggle with this transition, leading to circling roots or poor uptake.
- No pot-bound problems: Container plants can become pot-bound with congested, circling roots that never fully extend into the garden soil. Bare-root plants start fresh.
- Lower environmental impact: No plastic pots, less compost wasted, lighter for transport.
When to Plant Bare Root Plants
The bare-root window runs from November to mid-March — the dormant season. The ideal time is:
- November–December: Excellent timing. Ground is workable, temperatures are mild enough, and plants have maximum time to establish roots before spring. Best for roses, trees, and hedging.
- January: Still good, but watch for frozen ground. If the ground is frozen solid, delay planting until it thaws.
- February–early March: Perfectly fine, but act before buds break. Once buds are actively opening, the window is closing. Plant as soon as possible after purchase.
The golden rule: plant as soon as possible after purchase. Bare-root plants deteriorate if left unplanted — roots dry out and viability drops. If you can’t plant immediately, store correctly (see below).
Do not plant in waterlogged, frozen, or snow-covered ground. Wait for a dry spell if necessary.
What’s Available as Bare Root
The range of plants sold bare-root is wider than many gardeners realise:
Roses
The classic bare-root plant. All types — hybrid teas, shrub roses, climbing roses, ramblers, and ground cover roses — are available bare-root from November, often in huge variety. This is the best time to buy roses for quality, choice, and value. Full rose care guide →
Fruit Trees and Bushes
Apples, pears, plums, cherries, damsons, and quinces are all available as bare-root standards, half-standards, or whips (young feathered trees). Gooseberries, currants, and jostaberries are available as bare-root bushes. These are excellent value and establish well.
Strawberries
Bare-root strawberry runners are sold from late autumn, offering a wide range of varieties including early, mid, and late-season types, everbearers, and unusual flavoured varieties not available in containers. Plant 30–40cm apart in well-prepared, free-draining soil.
Hedging Plants
Hawthorn, blackthorn, hornbeam, beech, field maple, dog rose, hazel, and privet are all sold bare-root as whips — young, unbranched plants ideal for mixed native hedges. This is by far the most economical way to plant a new hedge.
Deciduous Ornamental Trees and Shrubs
Birch, rowan, cherry (ornamental), elder, willows, and many ornamental shrubs are available bare-root in winter. Specialist nurseries offer a far wider range than general garden centres.
Hardy Perennials
Some perennials — hostas, astilbes, daylilies, peonies — are sold as bare-root crowns in winter. These are dormant root systems with no visible growth; they look dead but aren’t. Plant at the correct depth and they’ll emerge reliably in spring.
How to Plant Bare Root Plants: Step by Step
The process is straightforward. Follow these steps for healthy establishment:
Step 1: Soak the Roots
As soon as possible after receiving bare-root plants, soak the roots in a bucket of water for 1–2 hours (up to overnight for very dry roots). This rehydrates them and prepares them for planting. Don’t soak for more than 24 hours.
Step 2: Prepare the Hole
Dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots fully without bending them — wider is better than deeper. The depth should place the plant at the correct depth (see step 4). Loosen the base and sides of the hole with a fork to allow roots to penetrate. On heavy clay, add grit or organic matter to improve drainage. On poor sandy soil, add well-rotted compost.
Step 3: Check for Damaged Roots
Before planting, inspect the roots and trim off any broken, rotting, or excessively long roots cleanly with sharp secateurs. Healthy roots are white or cream inside when cut; dead roots are brown and hollow.
Step 4: Plant at the Correct Depth
This varies by plant type:
- Roses: Plant so the bud union (the lumpy join between root and stem) is at soil level in mild areas, or 2–3cm below soil level in colder regions
- Trees: Plant to the same depth as they were growing in the nursery — visible as a soil mark on the stem
- Perennial crowns: Plant with the crown (growth buds) just at or slightly below soil level
- Fruit trees: Plant to the nursery depth mark; never bury the graft union
Step 5: Firm In Well
Return the soil around the roots gradually, firming in layers with your hands or heel to eliminate air pockets. Loose soil around roots causes them to dry out and inhibits establishment. The aim is firm but not compacted — you should be able to press your thumb in but not your full hand.
Step 6: Water Thoroughly
Water well even in winter — this settles soil around roots and ensures good contact. In very wet conditions, watering may be unnecessary, but in dry winters, it’s essential.
Step 7: Mulch
Apply a 5–8cm layer of bark chip, well-rotted compost, or straw mulch around the plant, keeping it clear of the stem. Mulch insulates roots, retains moisture, and suppresses weeds. This is one of the single most valuable things you can do for newly planted trees and shrubs.
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→ View My Garden CalendarStep 8: Stake Trees
Trees need staking for the first 1–2 years to prevent wind rock. Use a short stake (about one-third of the tree height) placed at 45 degrees into the prevailing wind, attached with a proper tree tie (not wire). Short stakes encourage the trunk to flex and develop strength; tall stakes create dependency.
How to Store Bare Root Plants If Not Planting Immediately
If you can’t plant immediately — frozen ground, bad weather, or just no time — don’t leave bare-root plants sitting in bags at room temperature. Store them correctly:
Short-Term Storage (Up to 2 Weeks)
Keep plants in a cool, frost-free shed or garage in their original packaging. Check that roots don’t dry out — if they feel dry, moisten the wrapping or packing material. Keep away from direct frost and never store in a heated room.
Heeling In (For Longer Storage)
“Heeling in” is the traditional solution for bare-root plants that can’t be planted immediately. Dig a shallow trench in a sheltered part of the garden, lay the plants at an angle with their roots in the trench, and cover the roots with loose soil. Plants can survive for several weeks heeled in, and it buys you time for proper planting conditions to return.
After Planting: First Year Care
Bare-root plants establish with relatively little intervention needed:
- Watering: The first spring and summer are critical. Water newly planted trees, roses, and shrubs during dry spells, particularly through their first summer. An established plant can fend for itself; a new plant cannot. Deep, infrequent watering encourages deep root growth better than frequent light watering.
- No feeding needed immediately: Don’t feed newly planted bare-root plants in the first few weeks. Wait until growth has begun in spring, then apply a balanced slow-release fertiliser around the root zone. Feeding too early pushes soft new growth that can be damaged by late frosts.
- Weed control: Keep the area around newly planted stock clear of competing weeds, especially grass. Grass around the base of a young tree can significantly reduce its growth rate by competing for water and nutrients.
- Check stakes and ties: Inspect ties monthly and loosen them as the trunk expands to prevent constriction. Remove stakes after 1–2 years once the tree is self-supporting.
- Be patient: Bare-root plants may appear slow in their first spring — this is normal. Roots are establishing below ground before visible growth takes off above. By the second year, growth is usually vigorous.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are bare-root plants as good as container-grown?
In most cases, yes — and often better. Container-grown plants have the advantage of being plantable year-round and looking more impressive at purchase. But bare-root plants planted at the right time often overtake container-grown equivalents within a season or two, establishing more natural root systems without the pot-bound constraints.
Can I plant bare-root plants in pots?
You can, but it’s not ideal for large plants like trees. Roses and smaller shrubs do fine in large containers if planting in the ground isn’t possible. Use a soil-based compost (John Innes No. 3), ensure good drainage, and water regularly. The main risk is the pot freezing solid in a hard winter — insulate or move to shelter.
My bare-root plant looks dead — should I be worried?
Not at this stage. Bare-root dormant plants are supposed to look dead — they have no leaves, little visible growth, and bare stems. As long as the roots are flexible and white inside when scratched, the plant is alive. Be patient until April or May before making any judgements. The scratch test on stems also helps — green beneath the bark means alive.
What if the roots dried out before planting?
Soak in water for several hours (up to 24 hours for very dry plants) before planting. This usually revives them adequately. Very desiccated plants — where roots are wrinkled and papery — are less likely to recover. Buy from reputable suppliers who store bare-root plants correctly and deliver promptly.
Can I plant bare-root plants if there’s light frost forecast?
Yes, a light frost forecast after planting is fine — in fact, the ground may be better-draining after a light frost than during prolonged wet weather. Avoid planting into frozen ground, and mulch well after planting to protect the root zone. The plants themselves are dormant and frost-hardy.
Sources
- Royal Horticultural Society. Bare Root Plants: Planting and Aftercare. RHS. https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/bare-root
- Royal Horticultural Society. Roses: Planting. RHS. https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/roses/planting
