Autumn Garden Checklist: 20 Tasks for September, October and November — in Priority Order
Don’t let winter catch your garden unprepared. This complete autumn gardening checklist covers 20 essential tasks across September, October and November — from planting spring bulbs to protecting tender plants.
Autumn is the most productive season in the gardening calendar — and the most misunderstood. Many gardeners wind down as the temperatures drop, but the work you do between September and November directly determines how well your garden performs the following spring. Spring bulbs need to go in the ground now. Tender plants need protection before the first hard frost. Lawns need feeding and scarifying while the soil is still warm. Get these tasks done and you’re setting yourself up for an exceptional year ahead.
This checklist covers everything that needs doing across all three autumn months, organised by timing so you can work through it systematically.
September Tasks
September is transitional — the soil is still warm from summer, growth is slowing but not stopped, and conditions are ideal for planting and transplanting. Prioritise these jobs while the ground is easy to work.
1. Divide Overgrown Perennials
Perennials that have formed large clumps — hostas, daylilies, asters, rudbeckia, salvia — benefit enormously from division every 3–4 years. September is one of the two best times to do this (early spring is the other). Dig the clump, split it into sections using two garden forks back-to-back, replant the healthy outer sections, and discard the woody centre. Division rejuvenates plants, increases flowering, and gives you free plants for other parts of the garden.
Hostas are especially rewarding to divide in September — the emerging eye buds are clearly visible and you can split the clump confidently. Replant immediately and water in well; divided hostas rarely need any fussing beyond that.
2. Plant Spring-Flowering Bulbs
September is the start of the main spring bulb planting window. Alliums can go in from early September; daffodils and crocuses are ideal from mid-September. Tulips are better left until October or November to reduce the risk of tulip fire disease. Plant in bold groups of 10–15 for maximum impact — a single bulb planted alone is always disappointing. See our complete spring bulb planting guide for depths, spacing, and timing by variety.
3. Harvest and Store Summer Produce
Bring in the last of the tomatoes, courgettes, and squash before the first frost. Green tomatoes will ripen slowly on a windowsill — lay them in a single layer and check daily. Squash and pumpkins need curing in a warm, dry spot for 10–14 days before storage; the skin should harden to resist fingernail pressure. Store in a cool, frost-free place and check regularly — one rotting squash can quickly spread to its neighbours.
4. Cut Back Spent Perennials
Once summer perennials have finished flowering and begun to die back, cut stems down to ground level. The exception is plants that provide winter interest or wildlife habitat — leave ornamental grasses, seed heads of rudbeckia and echinacea, and hollow-stemmed plants like fennel standing until late winter. These provide food for birds and overwintering sites for beneficial insects.
5. Take Cuttings of Tender Perennials
Pelargoniums, fuchsias, salvias, and osteospermums won’t survive frost outdoors. Take semi-ripe cuttings in September, root them in pots of gritty compost, and overwinter under glass. This costs almost nothing and means you’ll have established plants to put out next May rather than starting from scratch.
October Tasks
October brings the first serious frosts in most parts of the UK. The priority this month shifts to protection and preparation — mulching tender plants, clearing out summer crops, and planting bare-root stock while the soil is still workable.
6. Mulch Tender and Borderline-Hardy Plants
A thick mulch of bark chips, straw, or well-rotted garden compost applied over the root zone of tender plants acts as excellent frost insulation. Apply 8–10cm deep over the root zone of borderline-hardy plants — hostas, lavender, agapanthus, and other borderline subjects. Keep the mulch a few centimetres away from plant crowns to avoid rot.
7. Plant Bare-Root Shrubs and Trees
Bare-root season begins in October as the growing season ends. Bare-root plants — roses, fruit trees, hedging plants, and many ornamental shrubs — are significantly cheaper than container-grown equivalents and establish better when planted at the right time. Plant as soon as the ground is workable, before it becomes waterlogged or frozen. If you can’t plant immediately, heel the bare roots into a sheltered corner of the garden to prevent drying out.
8. Clear Vegetable Beds
Once summer crops are done, clear beds completely. Remove all plant debris to reduce the risk of pests and diseases overwintering in the soil. Annual weeds can be composted; perennial weeds and diseased material should be binned, not composted. Rake the bed level, add a layer of well-rotted manure or compost, and leave it rough — winter frosts will break down the clods naturally, giving you a fine tilth for spring sowing.
9. Lawn Care: Feed, Scarify, and Aerate
October is the last opportunity for effective autumn lawn care before growth stops. Apply an autumn lawn feed (high in potassium, low in nitrogen) to harden grass against winter. Scarify to remove thatch buildup — either with a rake or a powered scarifier — and aerate compacted areas by driving a garden fork 10–15cm deep at 10cm intervals across the lawn. Overseed bare patches with a matching grass seed mixture and keep them moist until germination.
10. Lift and Store Tender Bulbs
Dahlias, cannas, and gladioli are frost-tender and must be lifted before hard frost. After the first light frost blackens the foliage, cut stems to 10cm, carefully dig the clumps, shake off excess soil, and leave to dry in a frost-free shed for a few days. Store in boxes of barely damp compost, coir, or wood shavings in a cool but frost-free location. Check monthly and remove any soft or rotting sections immediately.
11. Continue Planting Spring Bulbs
October is the prime month for daffodils and tulips. Plant tulips from mid-October to November — later is better, as cooler soil reduces the risk of tulip fire. Plant at a depth of three times the bulb’s height. Naturalising bulbs in grass (crocus, daffodils, snakeshead fritillary) should go in now before the ground becomes too hard to work.
12. Protect Tender Wall Shrubs
Borderline-hardy wall shrubs — ceanothus, carpenteria, myrtle — benefit from a fleece wrap or hessian screen fixed to the wall or fence behind them in October. Remove during mild spells to avoid moisture buildup but replace before any frost forecast.
November Tasks
November is the final push — the last chance to plant spring bulbs, the month to make sure overwintering protection is in place, and the time to get the garden into a state where it needs minimal attention until March.
13. Final Bulb Planting Window
Tulips planted in November consistently outperform earlier plantings because the cold soil reduces the risk of tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae). This is also the last window for any bulbs you haven’t yet planted. Even in frozen soil, it’s worth attempting to plant — bulbs left out of the ground in a shed will deteriorate.
14. Protect Tender Plants from Hard Frost
Tree ferns, bananas, and other tender specimens that are too large to move indoors need serious insulation by November. Tie the leaves of tree ferns over the central crown to protect the growing point, then wrap the trunk in a thick spiral of straw or frost-fleece. Cordylines can be wrapped similarly. Lavender in pots should be moved to a sheltered wall or unheated greenhouse — it’s hardy in the ground but pot-grown lavender is far more vulnerable to freezing.
15. Dig Over Empty Beds
Single-digging empty vegetable beds in November — turning the soil over one spade’s depth — exposes pests and weed roots to winter frost and birds. Add organic matter as you go: a bucket of well-rotted manure or compost per square metre incorporated into the bottom of the trench makes a significant difference to soil structure. Do not dig beds if the soil is waterlogged; this destroys structure and does more harm than good.
16. Check and Sort Stored Bulbs and Produce
Bulbs and tender tubers in storage can rot quickly if any are diseased. Check stored dahlias, cannas, and gladioli every 2–3 weeks. Remove any soft, mouldy, or mushy sections with a clean knife, dust the cut surface with sulphur powder or dried cinnamon, and re-store separately. A single rotting tuber left unchecked can destroy a whole box.
17. Plant Garlic
Garlic planted in November to early December will have a head start on spring sowings. Break bulbs into individual cloves and plant tip-upward, 15cm apart, 3–4cm deep in well-drained soil. Garlic needs a cold period to vernalise properly and initiate bulb formation — this is why autumn planting consistently produces better results than spring planting.
18. Clear Gutters and Paths
Fallen leaves block gutters and create slip hazards on paths and decking. Clear gutters before the main rainfall season arrives and brush or jet-wash paths to remove algal slime. Lay sand or horticultural grit on persistently slippery areas.
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→ View My Garden CalendarPreparing Tender Plants for Winter
Some plants need individual attention beyond a general mulch. Here’s what to do with the most common tender subjects:
Hostas: Once the foliage has died back completely, cut stems to ground level and apply a thick mulch of bark chips over the crown. Hostas are fully hardy but slugs attack the emerging shoots in spring — applying sharp grit or copper tape around the crown before covering with mulch gives early protection.
Lavender: Lavender is hardy in well-drained soil but susceptible to root rot in cold, wet conditions. Improve drainage around lavender plants with grit. In heavy clay soils or in pots, consider moving to a sheltered spot. Cut back any long, whippy growth that could rock in winter winds and loosen roots — but don’t cut hard into old wood before spring.
Blueberries: Hardy once established, but container-grown blueberries benefit from being moved to a sheltered wall in November to reduce freeze-thaw stress on the root ball. Mulch the soil surface with bark chips.
Autumn Lawn Care
Autumn is as important for lawns as spring. The combination of warm soil, cooling air temperatures, and regular rainfall creates ideal conditions for grass recovery after a hot summer. A well-executed autumn programme means a greener, thicker, healthier lawn by the following May.
Feeding: Apply an autumn lawn feed in September–October. Unlike spring feeds (which are nitrogen-heavy and push lush growth), autumn feeds are high in potassium and phosphorus, which strengthen grass roots and improve resistance to frost, disease, and wear. Do not apply after mid-November — it’s too late for the nutrients to be taken up before growth stops.
Scarifying: Thatch is the layer of dead grass stems and roots that accumulates at the base of the turf. Up to 1cm of thatch is beneficial; more than that blocks water and nutrients. Scarify in September–October using a powered scarifier or a spring-tine rake. The lawn will look worse immediately afterwards — rake off the debris and reseed bare patches, then stand back. Within three weeks it will look better than before.
Aeration: Compacted soil prevents water and air reaching grass roots. In autumn, aerate by pushing a garden fork 10–15cm deep across the lawn at 10cm intervals, or hire a hollow-tine aerator which removes plugs of soil. Brush sharp sand or a top-dressing mixture into the holes to keep them open.
Overseeding: Patch bare or thin areas with grass seed in September–early October while the soil is still warm enough for germination (above 8°C). Keep patches moist until the seedlings establish. Germination typically takes 7–14 days; the new grass will be ready to mow lightly after 4–6 weeks.
Mowing: Gradually raise the cutting height through autumn. Cutting too short going into winter leaves grass vulnerable to frost damage, moss invasion, and disease. Aim for a final cut height of 4–5cm. Stop mowing once grass growth effectively stops, usually in November or when temperatures consistently fall below 5°C.
Tool Maintenance for Winter Storage
The end of the active gardening season is the right time to service tools so they’re ready for use next spring without a scramble.
Cleaning: Remove soil from all tools after every use, but give everything a thorough clean before winter storage. A wire brush removes dried mud and rust from metal heads. Wash handles with soapy water and allow to dry completely before storage.
Sharpening: Spades, hoes, secateurs, and loppers all work better sharp. Use a flat file to restore the edge on spade and hoe blades, working at the original bevel angle. Secateurs can be sharpened with a small whetstone or replaced if the blades are pitted beyond recovery.
Oiling: Wipe all metal parts with an oily rag (linseed oil or a light machine oil) before storage to prevent rust forming over winter. Rub wooden handles with raw linseed oil and allow to soak in — this prevents the wood drying and cracking. Store in a dry shed or garage, off the floor if possible.
Power tools: Drain petrol from lawnmowers and hedge trimmers before storage — stale petrol causes carburettor problems. Remove and sharpen lawnmower blades, clean the underside of the deck, and check oil levels. Battery-powered tools should be stored with batteries at around 50–70% charge; storing fully charged or fully flat degrades battery life.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I stop cutting the lawn in autumn?
Stop mowing when grass growth effectively stops — usually in November in most of the UK, when temperatures consistently fall below 5°C. Give the lawn a final cut slightly higher than normal (4–5cm) to protect it through winter. Never mow frozen or waterlogged grass.
Can I still plant spring bulbs in November?
Yes — and for tulips, November is actually the ideal time. Cooler soil temperatures reduce the risk of tulip fire disease. Daffodils, alliums, and crocuses planted in November may be a little late but will still perform. Even in lightly frozen soil, it’s worth trying — bulbs left out of the ground will deteriorate faster than they will in cold soil.
How do I protect tender plants from frost without a greenhouse?
For plants in the ground, a thick mulch over the root zone (8–10cm of bark chips, straw, or garden compost) provides significant insulation. Wrap the aerial parts of tender specimens with frost fleece held in place with twine. For pots, move them against a south-facing wall and raise them off the ground on pot feet to prevent waterlogging. Fleece wraps on pots can make the difference between survival and loss in hard winters.
Should I cut back ornamental grasses in autumn?
No — leave ornamental grasses standing through winter. They provide structural interest, shelter overwintering insects, and look particularly good with frost on them. Cut them back hard to 10–15cm above ground level in late February or early March before new growth begins. Cutting in autumn removes the overwintering habitat and the architectural effect.
What’s the most important autumn gardening task?
If you only do one thing, plant spring bulbs. The window is September to November and there’s no way to make up for a missed planting — you’ll simply have no spring display. Everything else on this list improves the garden; bulbs create the garden.
Sources
- Royal Horticultural Society. Autumn Jobs in the Garden. RHS. www.rhs.org.uk/advice/autumn-garden-jobs
- Royal Horticultural Society. Planting Bulbs. RHS. www.rhs.org.uk/plants/bulbs/planting
