Monstera vs Philodendron: How to Tell Them Apart (And Which to Choose)
Monstera vs Philodendron: How to Tell Them Apart (And Which to Choose)
Walk into almost any plant shop and you’ll find Monsteras and Philodendrons sitting side by side — and often mislabelled. It’s one of the most common points of confusion in the houseplant world, and for good reason: both belong to the same botanical family, both hail from tropical rainforests, and both produce lush green foliage that can look remarkably similar at a glance. Even experienced plant enthusiasts mix them up, and some retailers still sell Philodendrons under the name “split-leaf philodendron” when the plant in the pot is actually a Monstera.
Having spent over 25 years working with tropical plants, I can tell you this confusion is entirely understandable. In my early career, I watched seasoned nursery staff mislabel these two genera on a regular basis. The retail names don’t help — they were cemented decades ago when taxonomists themselves hadn’t fully separated the groups.
This guide cuts through the confusion once and for all. You’ll learn the definitive differences in taxonomy, leaf structure, growth habit, care needs, propagation, toxicity, and price — plus a simple 30-second visual test you can use in-store. By the end, you’ll know exactly which plant is which, and more importantly, which one belongs in your home.
At a Glance: Monstera vs Philodendron
| Feature | Monstera deliciosa | Philodendron hederaceum |
|---|---|---|
| Genus | Monstera (approx. 50 species) | Philodendron (approx. 500 species) |
| Family | Araceae | Araceae |
| Native range | Central America (Mexico to Panama) | Central & South America, Caribbean |
| Leaf shape | Large, broadly ovate, deeply lobed with split margins on mature leaves | Heart-shaped, smooth margins, smaller and more uniform |
| Fenestrations (holes) | Yes — distinct interior holes on mature leaves | No — leaves are whole and unperforated |
| Growth habit | Upright climber, becomes very large (3m+ indoors) | Trailing or climbing, stays compact (1–2m) |
| Light needs | Bright indirect — needs more light for fenestrations | Medium to bright indirect — more tolerant of lower light |
| Watering | Every 1–2 weeks; allow top 2–3 inches to dry | Every 1–2 weeks; slightly more drought-tolerant |
| Toxicity | Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested | Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested |
| Air purifying | Yes (limited evidence) | Yes (limited evidence) |
| Price | £10–£40+ depending on size | £5–£20 — generally cheaper and easier to source |
| Best for | Statement pieces, large rooms, bold tropical style | Shelves, hanging baskets, smaller spaces |
Taxonomy: Why the Confusion Exists
Both Monstera and Philodendron belong to the family Araceae — commonly called the aroids. This is a vast plant family containing over 3,700 species, and it’s the reason these two genera share so many superficial similarities. They evolved in the same tropical environments, adopted similar climbing strategies, and developed comparable leaf shapes to capture dappled rainforest light.
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The genus Monstera contains roughly 50 recognised species, while Philodendron is vastly larger with approximately 500 species. Despite sharing a family, they diverged millions of years ago and sit on separate branches of the aroid evolutionary tree. The confusion is compounded by historical misclassification: Monstera deliciosa was once placed within the Philodendron genus, and some older botanical texts still reference this outdated grouping.
The most persistent source of retail confusion is the common name “split-leaf philodendron,” which is applied to two completely different plants depending on who’s using it. Some retailers use it for Monstera deliciosa; others use it for Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (formerly Philodendron selloum), which has since been reclassified into its own genus entirely. If you see the label “split-leaf philodendron” in a shop, ignore it — look at the actual plant and use the identification tips below.
1. Leaf Shape and Fenestrations — The Key Identifier
This is the single most reliable way to tell these two plants apart. Monstera deliciosa develops iconic fenestrations — those distinctive holes and deep splits in the leaf blade — as the plant matures. Young Monstera leaves start out whole and heart-shaped, which is where a lot of the confusion begins. But by the time a Monstera reaches a decent size, its leaves split dramatically at the margins and develop interior perforations that let light filter through.
Scientists believe fenestrations evolved to allow wind to pass through large leaves without tearing them, and to let dappled sunlight reach lower leaves on the same plant. The pattern of holes and splits is not random — it follows the leaf’s vein structure, and each new leaf typically develops more fenestrations than the last as the plant climbs higher toward the canopy.
Philodendron hederaceum (the heartleaf Philodendron, the most common variety sold in shops) never develops fenestrations. Its leaves remain smooth, intact, and heart-shaped throughout the plant’s life. The surface texture also differs: Monstera leaves tend to be waxy, thick, and glossy with a leathery feel, while Philodendron leaves are thinner, slightly softer, and have a more matte or velvety finish depending on the species.
There is one species that complicates this — Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, formerly classified as Philodendron selloum and still sold under the name “split-leaf philodendron”. This plant does develop deeply lobed leaves, but it belongs to a different genus entirely, and its lobes run all the way to the midrib without creating the closed interior holes seen in Monstera. The name persists in retail, which explains why so many people are searching for “philodendron that looks like monstera” — they’ve likely encountered this plant.
Winner for statement leaves: Monstera — nothing else replicates those fenestrations.
2. Growth Habit and Size
Monstera deliciosa is a big plant. In its natural rainforest habitat it climbs trees to reach 20 metres; indoors it regularly reaches 2–3 metres and will keep pushing upward if given a moss pole or trellis to climb. The stem is thick and robust, and aerial roots develop readily — these can be trained into a support or left to trail. Each node along the stem can produce a single massive leaf, with mature specimens producing leaves up to 90cm across. It is very much a floor plant that becomes a room feature.
Philodendron hederaceum is far more accommodating in smaller spaces. It grows as a trailing or climbing vine with slender, flexible stems and stays compact enough to sit on a shelf, trail from a hanging basket, or cascade down a bookcase. Its leaves are much smaller — typically 7–15cm in length — and grow more densely along the stem, giving it that lush, cascading appearance. It can be trained to climb if you want height, but it never dominates a room the way a mature Monstera will. If you’re looking for the best plants for macramé hangers, heartleaf Philodendron is one of the top choices — it drapes beautifully and tolerates the occasional missed watering.
One structural difference worth noting is the aerial roots. Both genera produce them, but they serve slightly different purposes. Monstera aerial roots are thick, rope-like, and designed to anchor the plant to tree trunks as it climbs — they will actively seek out a moss pole or nearby surface. Philodendron aerial roots are shorter and finer, primarily used for absorbing moisture from the air rather than heavy structural support.
Winner for small spaces: Philodendron — versatile, manageable, and easy to style.
3. Common Species You’ll Encounter
The comparison above focuses on the two most popular species — Monstera deliciosa and Philodendron hederaceum — but both genera contain many other species sold as houseplants. Knowing the common ones helps you avoid further mix-ups.
Popular Monstera Species
- Monstera deliciosa — the classic Swiss cheese plant with large fenestrated leaves. By far the most common.
- Monstera adansonii — sometimes called the “Swiss cheese vine.” Smaller leaves with proportionally larger holes, trailing growth habit. Often confused with Philodendron because of its vining nature.
- Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’ — white-variegated form of the standard Monstera. Highly sought after and expensive (£100–£500+).
- Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ — cream-speckled variegation. More stable than Albo and increasingly available through tissue culture.
- Monstera obliqua — extremely rare in cultivation, with leaves that are more hole than leaf. Nearly all plants sold as obliqua are actually M. adansonii.
Popular Philodendron Species
- Philodendron hederaceum — the heartleaf Philodendron. Trailing, compact, and nearly indestructible.
- Philodendron hederaceum ‘Brasil’ — lime-green and dark-green variegated form of the heartleaf. Equally easy to grow.
- Philodendron gloriosum — a creeping terrestrial species with large velvety leaves and white veining. Does not climb.
- Philodendron melanochrysum — a climbing species with elongated, dark velvety leaves. Beautiful but more demanding.
- Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’ — a hybrid with pink variegation on dark leaves. Popular collector plant.
- Philodendron erubescens — climbing species with reddish stems and elongated leaves. Parent of many popular hybrids.
The variety within the Philodendron genus is staggering — some species have tiny heart-shaped leaves, others produce enormous paddle-like foliage that rivals Monstera in size. This internal diversity within the genus is another reason people confuse the two groups. The key identifier remains the same: true fenestrations (closed holes within the leaf blade) only appear in Monstera.
4. Light and Care Requirements
Both plants are tropical and prefer warm, humid conditions, but Monstera is the more demanding of the two when it comes to light. It needs bright indirect light to develop its characteristic fenestrations — a Monstera kept in low light will produce smaller, plain leaves that look nothing like the iconic holey variety. Maintaining good humidity is also important; check our monstera humidity guide for a practical approach using LECA pebbles to keep levels consistent year-round.
Philodendron hederaceum is more forgiving. It adapts to medium light levels and will survive (though not thrive) in lower-light spots where a Monstera would struggle. Watering schedules are similar for both — roughly every one to two weeks, allowing the top few inches of soil to dry between waterings — but Philodendron is slightly more drought-tolerant and bounces back quickly if you forget a watering session.
Temperature preferences are broadly the same: 18–27°C is ideal for both, and neither tolerates temperatures below 10°C. Both appreciate humidity levels of 50–60% or higher, which can be challenging in centrally heated UK homes during winter. A pebble tray, regular misting, or a nearby humidifier all help.
For soil, both perform best in a chunky, well-draining aroid mix — a combination of potting compost, perlite, orchid bark, and horticultural charcoal works well. Avoid standard dense potting soil, which retains too much moisture and risks root rot in both genera.
Neither plant likes waterlogged soil or cold draughts. If your Monstera starts showing yellow foliage, it is usually a signal worth diagnosing promptly — our guide on why monstera leaves turn yellow walks through the most common pattern-based causes.
Winner for ease of care: Philodendron — more forgiving of imperfect conditions.
5. Propagation
Both Monstera and Philodendron are easy to propagate, which is one of the reasons they’ve become so popular with houseplant enthusiasts. However, the techniques differ slightly due to their different growth structures.
Propagating Monstera
The best method is stem cuttings. Cut a section of stem that includes at least one node and one aerial root, then place it in water or directly into moist sphagnum moss. Aerial roots accelerate the process — they adapt quickly to absorbing water and nutrients from the propagation medium. Most cuttings root within 2–4 weeks in water at room temperature. Once roots reach 5–8cm, transfer to an aroid potting mix.
Propagating Philodendron
Heartleaf Philodendron propagates even more readily. Snip a section of vine with 2–3 nodes, strip the lower leaves, and place in a jar of water. Roots appear within 1–2 weeks — often faster than Monstera. Philodendron cuttings can also be rooted directly in soil by burying the nodes, though water propagation lets you monitor root development visually.
Both plants can also be propagated by air layering (wrapping a node in moist sphagnum moss while still attached to the parent plant), which is particularly useful for large Monstera specimens where you want to encourage root development before cutting. For Philodendron, the simplicity and speed of water propagation makes it the go-to method — many growers keep a jar of cuttings on the kitchen windowsill as standard.
Winner for propagation ease: Philodendron — faster rooting, simpler process, higher success rate for beginners.
6. Toxicity and Pet Safety
Both plants are toxic, and this is a non-negotiable consideration if you have cats, dogs, or young children. The ASPCA lists Monstera as toxic to cats and dogs, with symptoms including oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. This is caused by insoluble calcium oxalate crystals — needle-like structures called raphides — present throughout the plant’s tissues including stems, leaves, and roots.
Philodendron contains the same compounds and carries the same risks. In fact, Philodendron is listed separately by the ASPCA and is considered one of the more commonly encountered toxic houseplants due to its popularity and accessibility. The calcium oxalate crystals cause immediate pain and swelling in the mouth and throat when chewed, which usually stops pets from consuming large quantities — but the distress caused even by brief contact is significant.
If you have pets that chew on plants, neither is a safe choice. In that case, look at pet-safe tropical alternatives such as Calathea — see our Calathea care guide for a full rundown of a beautiful, non-toxic option that delivers excellent foliage without the risk. Other safe alternatives include Peperomia, spider plants, and Boston ferns.
Winner for pet households: Neither — both are toxic. Consider Calathea, Peperomia, or spider plants instead.
7. Aesthetic and Interior Styling
Monstera has become one of the most recognisable symbols of contemporary interior design. Its large, fenestrated leaves work as a focal point in living rooms, home offices, and open-plan spaces. The architectural quality of the leaf shape means a single plant can anchor a corner or complement a neutral palette with a burst of tropical energy. Mature specimens become genuine statement furniture — I’ve seen well-grown Monsteras completely transform a room’s character.
Philodendron offers a softer, more versatile aesthetic. The trailing form works particularly well in hanging arrangements, on high shelves, or cascading down a bookcase. The smaller leaf size suits minimalist styling without overpowering a room. It’s also better suited to bathrooms and bedrooms where space and light are limited.
Both plants are widely photographed on social media — if you’re decorating partly with photography in mind, Monstera delivers more drama per shot; Philodendron lends itself to lush layered shelfie arrangements.
Winner for bold impact: Monstera. Winner for versatility: Philodendron.
8. Price and Availability
Philodendron hederaceum is one of the most affordable and widely available houseplants on the market. You’ll find it in supermarkets, garden centres, and online shops for £5–£15 for a standard pot. It propagates easily in water, so once you own one you can create multiple plants for free.
Monstera deliciosa is also broadly available but commands a higher price, particularly for larger or more established specimens. A small plant typically starts at £10–£15, while a mature plant with a moss pole can reach £40–£80 or more. Variegated cultivars (Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’ or ‘Thai Constellation’) can fetch hundreds of pounds — they are a different category entirely.
Winner on budget: Philodendron — better value at every price point.
How to Tell Them Apart in 30 Seconds
Use this quick visual checklist when you’re standing in a shop and need a fast answer:
- Look for holes inside the leaf blade. If the leaf has enclosed perforations (not just splits to the edge), it’s a Monstera.
- Check the leaf margins. Deep splits running all the way to the central rib on a mature plant = Monstera. Smooth, unbroken heart-shaped edges = Philodendron.
- Feel the leaf surface. Waxy, thick, and stiff = likely Monstera. Thinner, softer, and slightly matte = likely Philodendron.
- Look at the stem. Monstera stems are thick and semi-woody with prominent nodes and chunky aerial roots. Philodendron stems are slender and more flexible with finer roots.
- Check the size of the plant. If it’s already taking up significant floor space with a chunky pot, it’s almost certainly a Monstera.
- Examine the cataphyll. The papery sheath that covers new growth. On Monstera, it dries and persists as a papery husk on the stem. On Philodendron, it tends to stay attached and can appear pinkish or reddish.
One caveat: young Monstera plants have plain, un-split leaves that genuinely do look like Philodendron. If the plant is very small and the label is missing, look at the stem texture and node spacing — Monstera nodes are further apart and the stem has a slightly more robust feel even in juvenile plants. The leaf texture test (thicker and glossier for Monstera) also works on young specimens.
Which Should You Choose?
- Choose Monstera if you want a bold statement plant for a large room, you have good bright indirect light, and you’re happy to give it space to grow over the years.
- Choose Philodendron if you want something low-maintenance for a shelf or hanging basket, you’re working with lower light, or you’re new to houseplants and want something forgiving — it consistently makes the list of easiest houseplants to keep alive.
- Choose neither if you have pets that chew on plants — both are toxic. Calathea is a beautiful non-toxic tropical alternative with stunning foliage (see our Calathea care guide).
- Choose both if you have the space — they complement each other well, with Monstera anchoring the floor and Philodendron trailing from a higher shelf above. I do this in my own conservatory and the layered effect is wonderful.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a split-leaf philodendron actually a Monstera?
Often, yes. The common name “split-leaf philodendron” is widely used in garden centres and supermarkets to describe Monstera deliciosa, which was historically misclassified. A true split-leaf philodendron refers to Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (formerly Philodendron selloum), a distinct plant with deeply lobed but unperforated leaves. If the leaves have closed interior holes, it’s a Monstera, not a Philodendron.
Can Monstera and Philodendron be kept together?
Yes — they have similar care requirements (warm temperatures, indirect light, regular watering, humidity) and look excellent together. The key is to give Monstera enough floor space and light to develop its characteristic leaves, while letting Philodendron trail or climb nearby. They can share the same room conditions comfortably.
Why does my Monstera not have any holes?
Fenestrations only develop on mature Monstera leaves, and only when the plant receives sufficient light. Young plants always produce plain, heart-shaped leaves — this is completely normal and can persist for the first one to two years. If your plant is mature (with a thick stem and leaves over 30cm) and still producing unperforated leaves, it likely needs more bright indirect light. Increasing humidity and feeding regularly during the growing season (April to September) with a balanced liquid fertiliser also encourages more developed foliage.
Which is better for beginners — Monstera or Philodendron?
Philodendron is the more beginner-friendly option. It tolerates lower light, recovers from irregular watering, and stays manageable in small spaces. Monstera is not difficult to keep, but it rewards consistent care and good light — and it will let you know when conditions aren’t right by producing plain, stunted leaves.
Can I grow Monstera or Philodendron in water permanently?
Both can survive in water for extended periods, though they grow more slowly than in soil. Philodendron hederaceum is particularly well-suited to water culture — many people keep cuttings in decorative jars indefinitely with just occasional water changes and a drop of liquid fertiliser. Monstera can also live in water but tends to produce smaller leaves without its characteristic fenestrations due to limited nutrient availability.
Are Monstera and Philodendron the same plant?
No. They are separate genera within the same family (Araceae). They share a common ancestor and have many similarities, but they are taxonomically distinct. The easiest way to remember: all Monsteras develop fenestrations (holes or splits) on mature leaves; most Philodendrons do not.
Want to dive deeper into Philodendron specifically? Our complete Philodendron care guide covers all the popular varieties — from heartleaf to Pink Princess — plus support structures, propagation methods, and troubleshooting.
