Monstera Types: 12 Stunning Varieties for Indoors
Walk into almost any plant shop and you’ll find a plant labelled “Monstera obliqua” that, in almost every case, is actually Monstera adansonii. You’ll find Monstera deliciosa mislabelled “split-leaf philodendron.” And you’ll occasionally find a Thai Constellation priced at £200 sitting next to a regular deliciosa at £15 — both looking broadly like the same thing to the uninitiated.
Monstera is a genus of around 59 species native to tropical America [1]. Most are unsuited to indoor life, but the twelve featured below represent the full range of what you can genuinely grow at home — from indestructible beginners’ plants to specialist collector species with requirements that would challenge a greenhouse manager. Knowing the difference before you buy matters more in this genus than almost any other.
This guide covers the distinguishing features, variegation science, and care requirements for all 12 varieties — with a comparison table and choosing guide at the end.
What Makes a Monstera a Monstera?
All Monsteras are hemi-epiphytes — plants that spend their early lives on the rainforest floor before climbing trees with the help of aerial roots [1]. They belong to the Araceae family, which they share with philodendrons, pothos, and peace lilies. The name “Monstera” derives from the Latin for monstrous or abnormal, a nod to the characteristic perforated and split leaves [1]. For a side-by-side comparison of the two most-confused genera, see our guide to Monstera vs Philodendron.
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Those iconic fenestrations — holes and deep splits in the leaf — develop only on mature foliage, and only when light is adequate. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension confirms that Monstera plants simply won’t develop their characteristic perforations in insufficient light [2]. The leading theory is that the holes allow wind to pass through large leaves without tearing them; a secondary hypothesis holds that they let filtered light and rainfall reach lower leaves and roots in the dense rainforest understory [1].
One fact worth flagging upfront: all Monstera species contain calcium oxalate crystals, making every part of the plant toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested [2]. The sole exception is the fully ripe fruit of Monstera deliciosa.
The 12 Indoor Monstera Varieties
1. Monstera deliciosa — The Classic Swiss Cheese Plant
Monstera deliciosa is the reference-standard Monstera — the one that started the houseplant boom and the one most likely to greet you in a hotel lobby or restaurant. In the wild it can exceed 70 feet; indoors, expect 7–10 feet over several years, with leaves that reach 18 inches across on a well-fed mature plant [2].
The key developmental fact: those fenestrations won’t appear without adequate light [2]. A deliciosa kept in a dim corner grows just fine but produces solid, unperforated leaves that look nothing like the iconic form. Place it within 3–4 feet of a bright window and you’ll see the difference within a few leaf cycles.
The Deliciosa vs Borsigiana debate — resolved. If you’ve spent time in collector circles you’ll have encountered claims that Monstera borsigiana is a distinct, smaller, faster-growing species. The current botanical position, definitively, is that it isn’t. Kew’s Plants of the World Online classifies M. deliciosa var. borsigiana as a synonym of M. deliciosa, following Cedeño-Fonseca et al.’s 2020 taxonomic study published in Aroideana [3]. The name was first published in 1908 and is no longer recognised as a distinct taxon [3]. Plants sold as “borsigiana” are typically more compact and faster-growing, but from a botanical standpoint they’re the same species.
Care: Bright indirect light (essential for fenestrations); water when top 2 inches of soil are dry; standard aroid mix; 65–85°F; 40–60% humidity.
2. Monstera adansonii — The Swiss Cheese Vine
Where deliciosa makes bold architectural statements, adansonii is a delicate scrambling vine with smaller leaves dotted with oval holes. First described by French botanist Michel Adanson in 1763 [1], it’s one of the most widely sold Monsteras — and one of the most mislabelled.
The leaves are heart-shaped with enclosed oval fenestrations that expand as the plant matures, eventually covering up to half the leaf surface in well-grown specimens [1]. Unlike deliciosa, adansonii never produces deep marginal cuts to the leaf edge — its fenestrations remain as enclosed windows. This makes them easy to distinguish: marginal splits reaching the leaf edge mean deliciosa; enclosed oval holes mean adansonii.
It’s naturally suited to hanging baskets or a moss pole, tolerates lower light than most Monsteras, and is genuinely beginner-friendly. One warning: it’s also the plant most commonly mislabelled as Monstera obliqua (variety 5). Real obliqua is almost impossible to find; what you’re almost certainly holding is adansonii.
Care: Bright to medium indirect light; allow top inch of soil to dry; 3–5 feet indoors; 40–60% humidity; trailing or climbing.
Understanding Monstera Variegation: Chimeral vs Stable
Before reaching varieties 3 and 4 — the two most sought-after Monsteras — it’s worth understanding why their variegation behaves so differently. The distinction matters practically: one delivers predictable, consistent beauty; the other offers uniqueness with genuine risk.
Chimeral variegation (found in Albo Variegata) occurs when a somatic mutation causes some cells to lose the ability to produce chlorophyll, leaving patches of white, cream, or yellow tissue incapable of photosynthesis [4]. Because this mutation is genetically unstable, the pattern changes unpredictably from leaf to leaf — you might get a leaf that’s 60% white, then a fully green leaf, then a dramatic half-and-half sectoral. The plant can revert to solid green at any time [4].
Stable (tissue-culture) variegation (found in Thai Constellation) is produced in laboratory conditions from a single, genetically consistent source [5]. Every plant is essentially a genetic clone carrying the same mutation, so the speckled cream-and-green pattern appears on every leaf with reasonable consistency. The pattern doesn’t revert.
3. Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ — Stable Starfield Variegation
Thai Constellation emerged around 2020 from tissue culture research in Thailand — a lab-developed cultivar of Monstera deliciosa rather than a naturally occurring mutation [5]. Every leaf displays a speckled cream-and-white pattern resembling a constellation, covering roughly 30–50% of the leaf surface. Because the variegation is stable across the tissue-cultured population, you get broadly consistent patterning with every new leaf.
The trade-off is photosynthetic capacity. The white portions carry no chlorophyll, so the plant works harder to sustain itself and grows noticeably slower than a standard deliciosa [1]. Large-scale production without losing variegation integrity has proved technically demanding, which is one reason the price stays elevated — typically £80–£200 for a well-established plant.
Care: Bright indirect light is non-negotiable — reduced chlorophyll means it needs more light, not less [1]; standard aroid mix; 50–65% humidity; allow top 2 inches of soil to dry before watering.
4. Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’ — Unpredictable Drama
Albo Variegata trades Thai Constellation’s consistency for something more dramatic and less controlled. The chimeral variegation produces bold white sectors and splashes across dark-green leaves — no two leaves are identical, and the pattern can swing from a delicate white margin to a leaf that’s 80% solid white [4].
That instability is real and important to understand before paying the premium. A mostly-white leaf is beautiful but has almost no photosynthetic capacity — it depends entirely on the remaining green sections to sustain the plant. If growth starts reverting to solid green, cutting back to the last variegated node is the only recourse [4]. Prices range from around £100 for a cutting to several hundred for a plant with exceptional patterning — the premium reflects the chimeral nature, since propagating by cuttings passes on the mutation but with no guarantee of replicating the same pattern.
Care: Brighter light than standard deliciosa — the non-green portions cannot photosynthesize, so the remaining green tissue needs sufficient light [1]; avoid direct sun on white sections, which scorch easily.
5. Monstera obliqua — The Genuine Rarity
Monstera obliqua warrants its own category of caution. It has been documented fewer than 20 times from wild populations [6]. What is sold under the “obliqua” label in most nurseries and online shops is, almost without exception, Monstera adansonii — an identification error so widespread it has become a standing joke in collector circles.
The real obliqua is immediately distinguishable: up to 90% of each leaf blade is open space [6]. What remains is paper-thin tissue stretched between enormous fenestrations, giving the plant a skeletal, lace-like appearance — hold a leaf to the light and it’s nearly translucent. One reliable botanical identification marker is the presence of stolons (runners extending from the stem), which adansonii lacks entirely [6].
Growing conditions match a cloud forest: true obliqua requires approximately 85% ambient humidity — a standard centrally-heated home at 40–50% will desiccate the tissue rapidly [1]. Growth is painfully slow even under ideal conditions. If you find one correctly labelled and priced accordingly (expect several hundred pounds minimum), assume it’s mislabelled unless the seller can provide provenance.
Care: 75–85% humidity (non-negotiable); bright indirect light; consistent warmth above 60°F; expert-only species.
6. Monstera dubia — The Shingling Climber
Monstera dubia is one of the most visually rewarding juvenile Monsteras you can grow — and one that transforms so dramatically between growth stages that juvenile and adult specimens are routinely mistaken for entirely different plants.
In its juvenile form, M. dubia is a “shingling” climber: small, heart-shaped leaves pressed flat against the climbing surface, silvery-green with dark veining, hugging their support like roof tiles [7]. This behaviour — positive phototropism — maximises light absorption while the plant climbs the shaded lower trunk of a rainforest tree. Indoors, a rough-surfaced moss pole or bark board replicates this beautifully, and the pressed silver leaves are genuinely unlike anything else in the Monstera family.
The transformation begins when the plant has climbed 4–6 feet [7]. Leaves detach from the support, enlarge considerably, lose their silver colouration, and develop fenestrations similar to adansonii. The two growth stages look so visually different that it’s worth researching what mature dubia looks like before you buy a juvenile, so you’re not startled when the silver eventually disappears.
Care: Rough climbing surface essential (moss pole or bark board); bright indirect light; 50–70% humidity; 65–85°F; the silver shingling phase persists longest with an appropriate surface to press against.
7. Monstera karstenianum (Peru) — Texture Over Fenestration
Monstera peru — formally Monstera karstenianum — breaks from the genus pattern entirely: it never produces fenestrations [1]. The appeal lies in texture. The leaves are glossy, dark green with pronounced, slightly raised veining that creates an almost reptilian surface unlike any other Monstera in this list.
It’s compact (typically 2–4 feet indoors), fast-growing for a Monstera, and genuinely tolerant of neglect. The University of Missouri IPM programme describes it as “low-maintenance for beginners” [1], and in practice it handles lower humidity, imperfect watering schedules, and less-than-ideal light far better than most species here. The one caveat: tight, clustered leaves can harbour spider mites in very dry conditions — a pebble tray or occasional misting prevents the worst of it.
I’ve kept one in a north-facing bathroom with inconsistent watering and it’s been unfailingly healthy. It’s the Monstera I’d recommend to anyone who wants the genus without the fuss.
Care: Bright to medium indirect light; allow top 2 inches to dry between waterings; 40–60% humidity; 50–80°F; excellent beginner plant.
8. Monstera standleyana — Speckled Lance Leaves
Monstera standleyana goes by “cobra philodendron” in some garden centres — another persistent mislabelling, as it’s neither a philodendron nor cobra-shaped. What it is: a climbing aroid with elongated, lance-shaped leaves displaying irregular cream or white speckling across a deep green background [1].
The ‘Albo-Variegata’ cultivar has more pronounced white speckling; the ‘Aurea-Variegata’ shows golden-yellow markings. Unlike the chimeral variegation of Albo Variegata deliciosa, standleyana’s speckled pattern is generally more stable and consistent from leaf to leaf — without the dramatic sector-to-sector swings and reversion risk that define Albo Variegata [1]. It stays compact relative to deliciosa (typically 3–5 feet indoors with support), practical for medium-sized spaces where a mature deliciosa would dominate.
Care: Bright indirect light; 60–80% humidity preferred; standard aroid mix; climbing support encourages larger leaves; 65–85°F.
9. Monstera siltepecana — The Silver Metamorph
Monstera siltepecana is named after Siltepec, Chiapas, Mexico — part of its native range across southern Mexico and Central America [8]. It performs a similar juvenile-to-adult transformation to M. dubia, though the two look quite different in leaf form.
In its juvenile stage, the leaves are small, lanceolate, and predominantly silvery blue-green with dark veining. NC State Extension describes them as “silvery green with dark green veins” — and in bright indirect light the silver sheen catches beautifully [8]. This is the form sold in shops, and the reason it’s called the Silver Monstera.
The twist: given a climbing structure and 2–3 years of upward growth, the silver markings fade, leaves enlarge significantly, and fenestrations begin to develop [8]. The adult plant is a good-looking fenestrated Monstera but loses the silver charm entirely. Growing it in a hanging basket maintains the juvenile silver form indefinitely — the metamorphosis only occurs with vertical climbing.
Care: 5–8 feet; 60–95°F; 40–60% humidity; bright indirect light; climbing support triggers adult leaves; trailing maintains juvenile silver form.
10. Monstera pinnatipartita — The Deep-Cut
If you want Monstera foliage that looks genuinely different from standard deliciosa, pinnatipartita delivers. Juvenile plants produce smooth, solid leaves; as they mature and climb, the leaves develop lobes that extend almost to the central midrib — far more dramatically cut than deliciosa, where the marginal splits are shallower [9]. The mature effect is feathery and somewhat prehistoric, like a cross between a tree fern and a classic Monstera.
This transformation depends entirely on climbing conditions and adequate light; a trailing pinnatipartita will stay in its smooth juvenile form indefinitely. Availability has improved as it gains popularity among collectors looking beyond standard deliciosa for dramatic, architectural foliage.
Care: Bright indirect light; climbing support essential for adult leaf development; humidity above 50% (60%+ for best fenestration); 65–85°F; aroid mix with good drainage.
11. Monstera lechleriana — The Fast Elongated Vine
Monstera lechleriana is among the faster-growers on this list — a welcome trait in a genus not known for speed. The leaves are elongated and narrower than deliciosa’s, featuring a single orderly row of oval-shaped holes running parallel to the central midrib as the plant matures [10]. The surface is leathery and glossy, deep green.
That leathery texture is the key distinguishing feature from adansonii, which has thinner, more delicate leaves with a less orderly fenestration pattern. At 3–5 feet indoors (more with a climbing structure), lechleriana suits mid-sized spaces and tolerates a slightly wider care range than the more demanding varieties here. A solid intermediate-level choice for collectors who want something less common than deliciosa but more achievable than Thai Constellation or obliqua.
Care: Bright indirect light; humidity 60–80%; allow top half of soil to dry before watering; climbing support recommended; 65–80°F.
12. Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana — The Compact Climber
While borsigiana is taxonomically synonymous with deliciosa (see variety 1), plants sold under this name behave differently enough in cultivation that collectors treat them as functionally distinct. “Borsigiana” plants are consistently more compact, faster-growing, and more manageable in indoor spaces — their leaves remain smaller at maturity and inter-node spacing is tighter, producing a denser climbing habit [3].
For practical indoor growing, this distinction matters: if you want the classic split-leaf deliciosa aesthetic without eventually needing a room of its own, a “borsigiana” form is a more manageable long-term choice. Its care requirements are identical to standard deliciosa. Variegated forms sold as “Monstera borsigiana albo” carry the same chimeral variegation as Albo Variegata deliciosa [1] — same instability, same premium, in a more compact package.
Care: Identical to Monstera deliciosa — bright indirect light; standard aroid mix; 40–60% humidity; 65–85°F.
Monstera Types: Care Comparison Table
| Variety | Indoor Size | Humidity | Difficulty | Standout Feature |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Deliciosa | 7–10 ft | 40–60% | Beginner | Classic split leaves; edible ripe fruit |
| Adansonii | 3–5 ft | 40–60% | Beginner | Lacy enclosed oval holes; trailing |
| Thai Constellation | 6–8 ft | 50–65% | Intermediate | Stable cream speckle; tissue-cultured |
| Albo Variegata | 6–8 ft | 50–65% | Intermediate | Bold white sectors; chimeral; unpredictable |
| Obliqua | 2–4 ft (slow) | 75–85% | Expert | 90% open leaf; paper-thin tissue |
| Dubia | 4–6 ft | 50–70% | Intermediate | Silvery shingling juvenile phase |
| Peru (karstenianum) | 2–4 ft | 40–60% | Beginner | Textured reptilian leaves; no fenestrations |
| Standleyana | 3–5 ft | 60–80% | Beginner–Int. | Speckled lance leaves; stable variegation |
| Siltepecana | 5–8 ft | 40–60% | Beginner–Int. | Silver juvenile leaves; metamorphic |
| Pinnatipartita | 4–6 ft | 50–60% | Intermediate | Deeply lobed feathery midrib splits |
| Lechleriana | 3–5 ft | 60–80% | Intermediate | Elongated leaves; fast-growing; orderly holes |
| Borsigiana* | 6–8 ft | 40–60% | Beginner | Compact deliciosa form; faster growth |
*Taxonomically synonymous with Monstera deliciosa (Kew POWO, following Cedeño-Fonseca et al. 2020). Treated as a distinct cultivated form by collectors.
Which Monstera Is Right for You?
Small spaces: Monstera adansonii in a hanging basket, Monstera peru, or Monstera lechleriana with a compact moss pole. All stay under 5 feet with support, and adansonii is particularly happy cascading from a shelf.
Large spaces or statement plant goals: Monstera deliciosa is the natural choice — nothing matches the scale and drama of a mature specimen. Thai Constellation gives the same eventual size with stable variegation on top.
Complete beginners: Monstera peru is the most forgiving — low humidity tolerance, occasional neglect, lower light, and no fenestrations to worry about developing. Deliciosa and adansonii are close seconds. For the full range of low-maintenance houseplant options, our guide to best houseplants for beginners covers every major family. If you enjoy the aroid family, the Philodendron types guide covers 15 closely related varieties with similarly dramatic foliage.
Variegation seekers: Thai Constellation for predictable, stable cream speckling with less management anxiety. Albo Variegata for dramatic, unique patterns — only if you understand the chimeral reversion risk and have the budget.
Experienced collectors: Monstera dubia for the shingling juvenile phase (genuinely unlike anything else in cultivation), pinnatipartita for the dramatic feathery adult transformation, and obliqua only if you have genuine humidity control.
Drama on a budget: Monstera siltepecana gives you the silver juvenile phase for a fraction of the cost of dubia, while standleyana offers variegated speckling at a far more accessible price than Thai Constellation or Albo.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the easiest Monstera to grow indoors?
Monstera peru (karstenianum) is the most forgiving. It tolerates lower light, lower humidity, and occasional neglect better than any other species in this list, and never produces fenestrations — so there’s no risk of disappointment if conditions aren’t ideal. Monstera adansonii is a close second for those who want the holey aesthetic.
Is Monstera deliciosa the same plant as borsigiana?
Taxonomically, yes. Kew’s Plants of the World Online classifies Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana as a synonym of M. deliciosa, following Cedeño-Fonseca et al.’s 2020 analysis in Aroideana. Plants sold as “borsigiana” tend to be more compact and faster-growing, but they are not botanically distinct species.
Why won’t my Monstera grow holes in its leaves?
Insufficient light is almost always the cause. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension confirms that fenestrations won’t develop without adequate light. Move the plant closer to a bright window — ideally within 3–4 feet of clear, unobstructed natural light. Very young plants also rarely fenestrate regardless of conditions: maturity matters as much as light.
Are Monsteras toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes. All parts contain calcium oxalate crystals, toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested, causing oral irritation, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. The only edible part is the fully ripe fruit of Monstera deliciosa.
Why is Thai Constellation so much more expensive than regular Monstera?
It’s produced through tissue culture in laboratory conditions, grows more slowly due to reduced chlorophyll in the white portions, and large-scale production without losing variegation integrity has proved technically demanding. Demand consistently exceeds supply for well-variegated specimens.
How do I know if a plant labelled Monstera obliqua is genuine?
Real obliqua is almost never found in standard nurseries. The genuine plant has leaves where up to 90% of the blade is open space — paper-thin tissue stretched between enormous fenestrations — plus stolons (runners) extending from the stem. Most plants sold as obliqua are Monstera adansonii. If the price isn’t in the hundreds and the leaves look like a leafy adansonii, it almost certainly is one.
Final Thoughts
Twelve varieties, one genus, and a care range spanning from “water it and forget it” (Monstera peru) to “maintain a dedicated humidity cabinet” (obliqua). The majority of the best-looking Monsteras on this list — adansonii, siltepecana in its silvery juvenile phase, dubia pressed flat against a bark board, pinnatipartita developing its feathery adult splits — sit comfortably in the intermediate bracket. All respond well to consistent bright indirect light, humidity above 50%, and a climbing structure that lets them express their adult form.
If you’re choosing your first Monstera, start with deliciosa or peru and establish the care routine before exploring the rarer end of the genus. If you want something more unusual, siltepecana’s silver juvenile form is genuinely beautiful and widely underrated for the price. And if the budget allows, Thai Constellation delivers the variegated look without the management anxiety of Albo Variegata’s unpredictable reversions.
Whatever you choose — check the label twice.
Sources
- University of Missouri IPM. Year of the Monstera — IPM Newsletter, January 2025. University of Missouri Extension.
- University of Wisconsin-Madison Horticulture Extension — Swiss-Cheese Plant, Monstera deliciosa. Used as contextual link above.
- Kew Plants of the World Online — Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana. Used as contextual link above.
- Pistils Nursery. Variegated Indoor Plants: The Science Behind the Houseplant Trend.
- Chestatee Farm. A Starry Tale: The Origins of Monstera Thai Constellation.
- Ohio Tropics. Monstera obliqua vs. adansonii: 7 Critical Differences.
- Monstera Plant Resource. Monstera Dubia: How to Buy and Care for This Monstera Variety.
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox — Monstera siltepecana. Used as contextual link above.
- Cafe Planta. The Ultimate Monstera Pinnatipartita Care Guide.
- Monstera Plant Resource. How to Grow Monstera Lechleriana: Identification and Care.
