Rose Companion Plants: Best Flowers to Grow with Roses
The right companion plants protect roses from pests, suppress weeds, attract pollinators, and extend the display across every season. Here are 16 proven companions organized by purpose, plus design combinations by rose type.
A rose planted alone in bare soil is a rose at a disadvantage. Without ground cover, the soil around the base dries out, weeds establish in every gap, and the exposed lower stems become easy targets for aphids scouting for a foothold. In late autumn, when the last blooms fade, you are left with a bed of bare earth and nothing else. Roses are long-lived garden plants — many shrub varieties will outlast the gardener who planted them — and they deserve a planting scheme that supports them for the long term.
Companion planting solves all three problems at once. The right neighbors suppress weeds before they germinate, confuse and deter the aphids and nematodes that target roses, and extend the visual interest of the bed from early spring through to late autumn. A well-composed rose border is not just prettier than a monoculture — it is measurably healthier. Research from the University of Minnesota Extension confirms that diversified plantings reduce pest pressure by disrupting the olfactory cues that insects use to locate host plants.
This guide organizes the 16 most effective rose companions by purpose: pest deterrence, pollinator attraction, ground cover, foliage contrast, and vertical structure. Each section explains the mechanism — not just which plants work, but why they work — so you can make informed choices for your specific rose type, USDA hardiness zone, and border design. A design table, seasonal calendar, and FAQ follow at the end. For guidance on keeping your roses healthy year-round, see our full guide to rose diseases and problems.
Pest Deterrents
Pest deterrence through companion planting works through two main mechanisms: masking the chemical signals that insects use to find host plants, and attracting the predatory insects that feed on rose pests. The five companions below use both strategies.
Seasonal Garden Calendar
Know exactly what to plant, prune and sow — every month of the year.
1. Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Lavender is the single most effective aphid deterrent for rose borders. The volatile oils in its foliage — linalool and linalyl acetate — interfere with the olfactory receptors aphids use to locate roses, making it significantly harder for them to land and establish colonies. At the same time, lavender’s flower spikes are exceptional attractants for hoverflies, whose larvae are voracious aphid predators. A border planted with lavender on the sunny side of roses effectively combines a chemical barrier with a beneficial insect recruitment station.
Lavender is hardiest in USDA zones 5–8, though some cultivars like ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’ tolerate zone 4 with good drainage. Plant it at the front of the rose border where it will also soften the woody rose stems in early spring. The contrasting foliage — silver-grey leaves against rose canes — is striking all season. Our full lavender care guide covers soil prep, pruning, and variety selection in detail.
2. French Marigold (Tagetes patula)
French marigolds are one of the most evidence-backed companion plants in horticulture. Their roots exude alpha-terthienyl (a thiophene compound), which suppresses soil nematodes — microscopic worms that attack rose roots and reduce plant vigor, particularly in warmer USDA zones 7–10 where nematode pressure is highest. Above ground, the pungent foliage scent disrupts the chemical trail aphids follow when searching for roses. The effect is strongest when marigolds are planted densely at the base of rose bushes rather than in a separate bed some distance away.
For maximum impact, plant French marigolds (not African marigolds, which are too tall) in clusters of five to seven directly around the base of each rose. Replace them annually as their nematode-suppressing effect is most potent in the first growing season. See our marigold care guide for growing advice and the best pest-deterrent cultivars.
3. Catmint / Nepeta (Nepeta x faassenii)
Catmint has been paired with roses in English cottage gardens for generations, and the combination earns its reputation on multiple levels. Like lavender, catmint’s aromatic foliage is unattractive to aphids — the oils in its leaves include nepetalactone and nepetalic acid, both effective insect deterrents. Its sprawling, ground-covering habit is also practically valuable: catmint forms a dense mat 12–18 inches tall that smothers weeds along the front of the border and prevents soil splash — which is one of the vectors for black spot spores — from reaching rose foliage during rain.
Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ and ‘Walker’s Low’ are the most popular border varieties. Both flower from May to September if cut back by half after the first flush — a process that takes five minutes and triggers a second wave of lavender-blue flowers that perfectly complement pink, white, or apricot roses. Hardy in USDA zones 3–8.
4. Ornamental Alliums (Allium hollandicum, A. giganteum)
The entire allium (onion) family produces sulfur compounds that are toxic to aphids at close range and disruptive to the chemical signals that other rose pests — including Japanese beetles in zones 4–9 — use to locate host plants. Ornamental alliums bring these benefits alongside one of the most distinctive architectural forms in the spring garden: perfect spheres of tiny star-shaped flowers on tall, straight stems, in shades from pale lilac to deep violet.
Plant allium bulbs in autumn at the base of rose shrubs, spacing them 6 inches apart. They will push through in April and May — exactly when roses are putting on their first growth flush and most vulnerable to early-season aphid attack — and their architectural seed heads persist for weeks after flowering, providing structural interest long after the flowers fade. ‘Purple Sensation’ (24 inches) and ‘Gladiator’ (36 inches) are excellent choices for mid-border placement.
5. Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum)
Among allium family companions, garlic chives are the most pungent and therefore the most potent aphid deterrent. Their flat, grass-like leaves release a concentrated sulfur-garlic compound year-round — not just when in bloom — creating a persistent chemical barrier around rose bases. Unlike ornamental alliums, garlic chives are semi-evergreen perennials that provide year-round coverage, and they produce attractive clusters of white star-shaped flowers in late summer when many other companions have finished.
Grow garlic chives at the very base of rose bushes, tucking them in between the woody canes. They tolerate partial shade, so they perform well even under the canopy of large shrub roses. Hardy in USDA zones 4–9. One caution: garlic chives self-seed prolifically. Deadhead after flowering unless you want them to spread.
Pollinator Companions
Modern repeat-flowering roses — particularly hybrid teas and many David Austin varieties — produce blooms that are less accessible to bees than single-flowered species roses, due to their densely packed petals. Planting single-flowered pollinators nearby ensures the rose bed contributes to local pollinator populations and benefits from the predatory insects that pollinators also attract. These three companions are particularly effective bee magnets.
6. Salvia nemorosa
Salvia nemorosa is one of the most intensely visited plants by bumblebees and honey bees in the summer garden. Its upright spikes of deep violet or pink flowers are produced from June to August and, like catmint, respond vigorously to cutting back for a second flush. The vertical habit — 18–24 inches tall with a narrow footprint — makes it ideal as a mid-border companion that does not compete with roses for light or air circulation. ‘Caradonna’ (deep violet, near-black stems) and ‘Mainacht’ are the most popular border varieties. Hardy in zones 4–8.
7. Geranium Rozanne (Geranium ‘Rozanne’)
Geranium ‘Rozanne’ has one of the longest flowering seasons of any herbaceous perennial: a continuous display of violet-blue saucer flowers from late May to November in most zones (5–8). Its sprawling, ground-covering habit makes it equally effective as a weed suppressor at the front of the rose border, and the single-petalled flowers are highly attractive to bees and hoverflies. Unlike French geraniums (Pelargonium), hardy geraniums are fully perennial and require minimal maintenance beyond cutting back in late autumn.
8. Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Foxgloves are specialist bumblebee plants: the tubular flowers are sized precisely to allow bumblebees to enter and collect nectar and pollen, while most other insects are excluded. Placing foxgloves behind climbing or shrub roses adds dramatic vertical height (4–6 feet) and ensures excellent bumblebee traffic through the border. As biennials, they self-seed freely when happy, providing a self-renewing population. Foxgloves prefer partial shade — making them excellent for planting on the shadier side of tall rose shrubs — and are hardy in zones 4–9. Our rose pruning guide explains how to shape shrub roses to leave room for companions like foxgloves to establish behind them.
Ground Cover and Weed Suppression
Bare soil in a rose bed is a weed nursery. Any sunny, open patch will be colonised within weeks in warm weather, and weeds competing for water and nutrients directly at the root zone of roses are a real drain on plant vigor. These three ground-covering companions form dense, low carpets that block weed germination without shading out the rose roots that need warmth to perform well.
9. Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis)
Lady’s mantle is the quintessential rose border edging plant. Its lime-green, frothy flowers — more accurately described as a foam of tiny chartreuse flowers — are a natural foil for almost every rose color, from deep crimson to pale blush. The pleated leaves collect dew into silver droplets that catch the morning light. Alchemilla spreads freely by seed but is easy to pull out wherever it self-sows, and the sheer density of its canopy means very few weeds germinate beneath it. Reliable in zones 3–7.
See also our guide to roses garden easy.
10. Hardy Geranium / Cranesbill (Geranium spp.)
Beyond ‘Rozanne’, the broader range of hardy geraniums offers some of the most effective weed-smothering plants available for the front of a rose border. Geranium macrorrhizum is particularly useful: it produces thick, semi-evergreen mats of aromatic foliage that suppress weeds even through winter, and it tolerates dry shade under the canopy of large shrubs. ‘Wargrave Pink’ and ‘Bevan’s Variety’ are popular cultivars. Hardy in zones 3–8 depending on species.
11. Siberian Bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla)
Brunnera fills a gap that most other rose companions cannot: it performs well in partial shade, making it ideal for planting beneath the canopy of large shrub or climber roses on north-facing walls or in dappled light. Its cloud of tiny blue flowers in spring echoes forget-me-nots, and the large, heart-shaped leaves with silver variegation — as in the cultivar ‘Jack Frost’ — provide attractive foliage interest all season. Hardy in zones 3–7.
Foliage Contrast Companions
Foliage contrast is what separates a beautiful rose border from a merely functional one. These three plants are grown primarily for their leaves — silver, bronze, or filigree — which act as a visual foil that makes rose blooms appear more vivid by contrast.
12. Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina)
Lamb’s Ear produces large, woolly silver-grey leaves that are among the most tactile and visually striking edging plants available. The silvery tone provides crisp contrast to warm rose colors — particularly pinks, reds, and corals — and the mat-forming growth suppresses weeds effectively. The fuzzy foliage texture also appears to deter aphids, which prefer smooth surfaces for landing. Hardy in zones 4–8. For a non-flowering form that keeps its compact shape, choose ‘Silver Carpet’.
13. Heuchera (Coral Bells)
Modern Heuchera cultivars offer an extraordinary range of foliage colors: burnt caramel (‘Caramel’), deep burgundy-purple (‘Palace Purple’), silver-flushed pewter (‘Pewter Moon’), and near-black (‘Obsidian’). These dark and metallic tones create dramatic contrast against the bright colors of rose blooms, particularly pale pink or yellow varieties. Heucheras are shade-tolerant, making them useful under large shrub roses where little else will grow. Hardy in zones 4–9 depending on cultivar.
14. Artemisia (‘Powis Castle’)
Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’ produces the finest silver foliage in the herbaceous border: intricate, filigree leaves of shimmering silver-grey that billow gently in the breeze. The effect alongside roses — especially deep red or crimson varieties — is one of the most dramatic color contrasts available in the summer garden. The pungent aromatic oils in Artemisia foliage also appear to have an aphid-repelling effect, adding pest deterrence to its ornamental value. Hardy in zones 6–9; treat as an annual in zones 4–5.
Vertical Accent Companions
Even the tallest shrub roses have a horizontal spread that can feel low and bushy without vertical punctuation behind them. These two companions add height, drama, and year-round structure to the rose border.
15. Delphinium
Delphiniums provide the most dramatic vertical punctuation available to the cottage rose border: spires of intense blue, purple, white, or pink flowers that reach 4–7 feet, towering above even the largest shrub roses. Plant them at the back of the border in groups of three to five, where they will create a backdrop of vertical color during the rose’s main June flush. Delphiniums are hungry feeders, so amend the soil with generous compost and feed monthly during the growing season to prevent root competition with nearby roses. Hardy in zones 3–7.
16. Clematis
Clematis is perhaps the most creative of all rose companions, and the combination of clematis trained through climbing or rambling roses is one of the great set pieces of the English cottage garden. The two plants share similar cultural needs — rich soil, cool roots, warm tops — and a well-chosen clematis extends the flowering season of a climbing rose bed by weeks. Group C (late-flowering) clematis like ‘Jackmanii’ or ‘Perle d’Azur’ are ideal because they are cut back hard in early spring, avoiding any conflict with rose pruning. Choose a clematis whose flower color complements rather than clashes: pale blue with red or pink roses, or white with almost anything. Hardy in zones 4–9 depending on variety.
What NOT to Plant Near Roses
Companion planting is as much about avoidance as selection. These plants can actively harm rose health and should be kept well away from the rose border:
Strong Root Competitors: Ivy and Bamboo
Both ivy and bamboo have aggressive, spreading root systems that will colonise the root zone of roses and outcompete them for water and nutrients. Bamboo spreads by underground rhizomes that can travel 10–15 feet from the parent plant in a single season. Ivy, once established near roses, is almost impossible to remove without disturbing rose roots in the process. Keep both at least 10 feet from any rose planting.
Disease Vectors: Strawberries
Strawberries share several fungal pathogens with roses, most notably Botrytis cinerea (grey mold) and certain species of Verticillium. Planting strawberries as a ground cover beneath rose bushes — a tempting idea that occasionally appears in gardening media — creates a high-density inoculation point for these diseases, particularly in wet springs. Keep strawberries in a separate bed away from the rose border. For guidance on identifying and managing fungal problems, see our rose diseases guide.
Nutrient Hogs: Sunflowers
Sunflowers are allelopathic — they release chemicals from their roots that inhibit the growth of nearby plants — and they are also heavy feeders that will deplete the nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil around rose roots. The allelopathic effect is most pronounced within 18 inches of the sunflower stem. Plant sunflowers at least 3 feet from any rose, in a separate border or cutting garden bed.
Design Combinations by Rose Type
Different rose types have different growing habits, heights, and pruning needs — and their companion plants should be selected to complement rather than compete. This table summarizes the most effective companion combinations for each main rose type.
| Rose Type | Best Companions | Planting Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Climbing / Rambling Rose | Clematis (Group C), Foxglove, Delphinium | Train clematis through the rose; plant foxgloves and delphiniums at the base for vertical layering |
| Shrub Rose (David Austin types) | Lavender, Catmint, Alchemilla mollis | Plant lavender and catmint at the front to soften and deter pests; alchemilla fills gaps between shrubs |
| Hybrid Tea / Grandiflora | Salvia nemorosa, Geranium Rozanne, Stachys | Hybrid teas have an upright formal habit — use mid-height salvias and low silver stachys for a structured look |
| Ground Cover Rose | Ornamental Allium, Brunnera, Garlic Chives | Plant allium bulbs through the rose canopy in autumn; brunnera works in shaded spots the rose creates |
Seasonal Companion Planting Calendar
A well-planned rose border should have companion interest across all four seasons. Use this calendar to sequence plantings so there is always something supporting or complementing the roses:
- Early spring (March–April): Allium bulbs push through and begin their pest-deterrent work. Brunnera produces blue spring flowers. Alchemilla begins its fresh lime-green growth.
- Late spring (May–June): Allium spheres are at their peak alongside the roses’ first flush. Catmint and salvia begin flowering. Foxgloves reach full height and begin to bloom.
- Midsummer (July–August): Catmint and salvia are cut back and reflush. French marigolds and garlic chives are in full pest-deterrent mode. Clematis trained through climbing roses adds a second layer of flower color.
- Late summer–autumn (September–October): Geranium ‘Rozanne’ continues flowering. Allium seed heads persist as structural elements. Heuchera foliage deepens in color as temperatures cool.
- Winter (November–February): Stachys, heuchera, and semi-evergreen hardy geraniums provide low foliage cover. Structural seed heads of alliums and delphiniums remain. Artemisia holds its silver color in mild winters.
For a comprehensive guide to the principles behind this approach, including vegetable and herb companions, see our companion planting guide. For choosing which rose to anchor your border, our guide to best rose varieties covers the top performers by color, habit, and disease resistance.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best companion plant to keep aphids off roses?
Lavender and catmint are the most reliably effective aphid deterrents for rose borders. Both work by masking the volatile chemical signals that aphids use to locate host plants. Lavender has the additional benefit of attracting hoverflies, whose larvae are among the most efficient aphid predators in the garden. Plant lavender on the sunny side of the rose border for maximum impact, and allow catmint to form a dense ground-covering mat directly around the rose base.
How close should companion plants be to roses?
For pest deterrence, companion plants need to be within 12–18 inches of the rose base to have maximum effect — this is the zone where root exudates (from marigolds and garlic chives) and foliar volatiles (from lavender and catmint) are most concentrated. Ground-covering companions like alchemilla and geranium can be planted almost up to the base of the rose, as long as good air circulation is maintained around the lower canes to reduce the risk of black spot. Leave a small gap of 4–6 inches immediately around the rose stems.
Can I grow herbs as rose companions?
Yes — several herbs make excellent rose companions. Garlic chives (listed above) are arguably the most potent aphid deterrent in the herb category. Thyme, with its low mat-forming habit, works as a weed-suppressing ground cover with mild pest-deterrent properties. Chives and sage both share the allium/aromatic family’s pest-masking properties. Avoid fennel — it is allelopathic and inhibits the growth of most neighboring plants, including roses. Mint spreads aggressively and should always be grown in buried containers to prevent it colonising the rose root zone.
What companion plants work for roses in containers?
Container roses benefit from companion planting just as much as border roses — possibly more, since container soil dries out faster and pest pressure on a confined plant can escalate quickly. For pots, French marigolds are ideal: plant 3–5 in the same large container around the base of the rose for nematode suppression and aphid deterrence. Trailing lobelia adds pollinator value without competing strongly for nutrients. Dwarf lavender cultivars like ‘Hidcote Dwarf’ or ‘Little Lady’ can share a large (18-inch or wider) container with a patio rose if watered consistently.
Do companion plants compete with roses for nutrients?
Low-growing, fine-rooted companions like alchemilla, catmint, and hardy geranium have minimal root competition with roses, which root deeply. The main competition risk comes from hungry, deep-rooted plants like delphiniums — feed delphiniums separately with a monthly liquid feed rather than relying on rose fertilizer to cover both. Avoid planting sunflowers, brassicas, or other heavy feeders within 2–3 feet of any rose. As a general rule: if the companion needs as much fertilizer as a rose, keep them apart.
