Philodendron Types: 15 Best Varieties for Indoors

Explore the 15 best philodendron types for indoors — beginner heartleafs, architectural self-headers, and rare collector climbers, with care profiles and honest rarity ratings.

Philodendrons have been in British and American homes since the Victorian era, and for good reason. With over 627 accepted species [1], the genus is one of the largest in the entire aroid family — yet the plants most people grow indoors belong to just a handful of proven performers. The challenge isn’t finding a philodendron; it’s choosing the right one for your space, your light levels, and your honest skill level as a grower.

“Philodendron” covers an enormous range: from the humble heartleaf trailing across a shelf to a towering Selloum with leaves the size of a coffee table, and from the near-indestructible Brasil to the humidity-hungry Verrucosum that demands near-perfect conditions. If you’re also weighing up whether you even have a philodendron — they’re commonly confused with Monsteras and pothos — our Monstera vs Philodendron guide breaks down the key differences clearly.

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This guide covers the 15 best philodendron varieties for indoor growing, organised by growth habit so you can find the right match for your space. Every variety includes an honest profile: growth type, light needs, difficulty, rarity, and approximate price. And at the end, you’ll find picks for the best beginner variety, the best trailing varieties, and the best collector choices worth hunting down.

Understanding Philodendron Growth Habits

Before looking at individual varieties, it’s worth understanding the three fundamental growth types in the philodendron world. This distinction matters far more than species names for practical indoor growing — it determines how much space the plant needs, whether it benefits from a support structure, and what kind of display it suits best.

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Self-Heading Philodendrons

Self-heading types grow from a central crown or rosette, producing leaves from a single growing point without producing trailing stems. They’re compact, architectural, and stay where you put them — ideal for tabletops or floor positions where you want a structured silhouette. Birkin, Prince of Orange, Xanadu, and Selloum/Hope are all self-heading. Their footprint is fixed and predictable, which makes them easier to plan around in a room.

Climbing Philodendrons

Climbing philodendrons produce long stems with aerial roots and are genetically programmed to grow upward. In nature, they scale trees in search of the canopy. Indoors, give them a moss pole and they respond by producing noticeably larger, more mature-looking leaves with shorter internodes — the same evolutionary mechanism that causes Monsteras to develop holes in their leaves. Without support, these exact same plants trail from a hanging basket or cascade across a shelf. Most people know the “trailing” expression, but the plant is still a climber — just expressing its juvenile growth form.

Pink Princess, Melanochrysum, Squamiferum, Verrucosum, Florida Ghost, and Ring of Fire are all true climbers. Give them something to climb and they’ll reward you with dramatically larger foliage.

The Heartleaf Group: Climbers That Trail Beautifully

The Heartleaf family (Heartleaf, Brasil, Lemon Lime, Micans) are technically climbers but grow so quickly and flexibly that they work equally well as trailing plants in hanging baskets or climbing plants on a moss pole. Most growers keep them trailing, and they look excellent that way. One exception in the list: Gloriosum is a terrestrial creeper — it spreads horizontally along the ground via a thick rhizome rather than climbing vertically, and it needs a wide, shallow pot rather than a tall one.

With that framework in place, here are the 15 best philodendron types for indoors.

Six different philodendron leaf types arranged in a flat lay showing variety from heartleaf to Birkin pinstripes to velvety Micans to Pink Princess variegation
Philodendron leaves range from simple heart shapes to velvety textures, lobed forms, and striking variegation — the variety in this single genus is remarkable.

The 15 Best Philodendron Types for Indoors

1. Heartleaf Philodendron (P. hederaceum)

The one that started it all. Heartleaf philodendron has been a houseplant staple since the Victorian era and remains the best entry point for anyone new to the genus. NC State Extension’s plant database records it as the most commonly cultivated indoor philodendron — and the most forgiving [1]. It tolerates low light, handles irregular watering, and shrugs off conditions that would stress most other aroids. Vines grow quickly (up to 25–30 cm per month in good conditions) and trail beautifully from a high shelf or climb a moss pole where leaves gradually increase in size. If you’re choosing your first philodendron, choose this one.

Growth habit: Climbing/trailing | Light: Low to bright indirect | Difficulty: Beginner | Rarity/Price: Very common, £5–£15 | Size: Vines to 3 m+

2. Brasil (P. hederaceum ‘Brasil’)

Same easy care as the heartleaf, but with lime-yellow and forest-green variegated leaves that look far more exotic than the care demands. The key with Brasil is light: in low light, new leaves gradually revert toward solid green as the plant compensates for reduced photosynthesis. I moved a dull Brasil from a north-facing hallway to an east-facing windowsill and watched it recover its colour over the following three months — the difference was remarkable. Keep it in medium to bright indirect light and the contrast stays vivid and striking.

Growth habit: Climbing/trailing | Light: Medium to bright indirect | Difficulty: Beginner | Rarity/Price: Very common, £8–£18 | Size: Vines to 2 m+

3. Lemon Lime (P. hederaceum ‘Lemon Lime’)

The neon edition of the heartleaf group — uniform highlighter-yellow-green leaves that glow in a well-lit room. Leaf colour intensifies in brighter light and fades slightly in lower conditions, but the plant stays healthy across a wide range. It’s an excellent choice for a hanging basket where the vivid trailing stems can be appreciated from below, and it’s genuinely hard to go wrong with the care. One of the most visually cheerful plants in the low-effort category.

Growth habit: Trailing/climbing | Light: Low to bright indirect | Difficulty: Beginner | Rarity/Price: Common, £8–£18 | Size: Vines to 2 m+

4. Micans (P. hederaceum ‘Micans’)

The most tactile of the heartleaf group. Micans has velvety, slightly iridescent leaves with a bronzy-green sheen that shifts depending on the angle of light — running a finger across the leaf surface is genuinely satisfying in a way that glossy-leaved philodendrons aren’t. It’s slightly more prone to root rot than the other heartleaf cultivars, so ensure the pot has drainage and let the top half of the soil dry between waterings. At its best trailing from a high shelf where light catches the velvet texture on the undersides.

Growth habit: Trailing/climbing | Light: Low to bright indirect | Difficulty: Beginner | Rarity/Price: Common, £10–£22 | Size: Vines to 2 m

5. Birkin (P. ‘Birkin’)

A striking departure from the heartleaf group — Birkin is a compact self-heading plant that grows upright from a central crown, producing dark green leaves with fine white pinstripes that look almost hand-painted. It’s a spontaneous mutation derived from the Rojo Congo, and the variegation is generally stable, though an occasional leaf may revert to solid dark green. Bright indirect light keeps the pinstripes crisp and the growth rate healthy; in low light, both suffer. It tops out around 60–70 cm indoors, making it a tidy, manageable specimen that earns its shelf space.

Growth habit: Self-heading | Light: Medium to bright indirect | Difficulty: Beginner–Intermediate | Rarity/Price: Common, £12–£25 | Size: Up to 60–70 cm

6. Prince of Orange (P. ‘Prince of Orange’)

The most dramatic new-leaf colour show among the self-heading types. New leaves emerge vivid coppery-orange and mature through red-orange to deep green over several weeks — so a healthy plant typically displays three or four tones at once, depending on what growth it’s producing. It reaches around 60 cm tall with a wide, bushy form that suits floor placement in a well-lit corner. Care is beginner-friendly: consistent moisture, monthly feeding during the growing season, and medium to bright indirect light.

Growth habit: Self-heading | Light: Medium to bright indirect | Difficulty: Intermediate | Rarity/Price: Common–Uncommon, £15–£35 | Size: Up to 60 cm

7. Pink Princess (P. erubescens ‘Pink Princess’)

One of the most talked-about houseplants of the past decade. Pink Princess produces dark chocolate-brown leaves with irregular hot-pink variegation — a genuinely unusual colour combination. The variegation is genetic but unstable: some leaves emerge all-green (reversion) or all-pink (which lacks the chlorophyll to sustain the plant long-term). Here’s the current reality: tissue culture propagation has made Pink Princess significantly more affordable and available than it was even three years ago [2]. You can now find small plants for £15–£25; what matters is variegation quality, not scarcity. Give it bright indirect light to encourage the most vivid pink splashes.

Growth habit: Climbing | Light: Bright indirect | Difficulty: Intermediate | Rarity/Price: Now common, £15–£80 | Size: Vines to 1.5 m

8. Gloriosum (P. gloriosum)

One of the most visually spectacular philodendrons and one of the most ecologically significant — Gloriosum is listed as threatened in its native Colombia, with a very restricted natural range [3]. As a houseplant, it grows as a terrestrial creeper rather than a climber, spreading horizontally via a thick surface rhizome and producing large, velvety, heart-shaped leaves with prominent white veins. It needs a wide, shallow container (not a tall pot), humidity above 55–60%, and patience — it’s a genuinely slow-growing plant. But when a mature Gloriosum is in good condition, there’s little to match it for sheer presence.

Growth habit: Terrestrial creeper | Light: Bright indirect | Difficulty: Intermediate | Rarity/Price: Rare–Collector, £50–£200 | Size: Leaves to 40–50 cm; plant spreads horizontally

9. Xanadu (Thaumatophyllum xanadu)

A botanical note first: Xanadu is no longer technically a philodendron. In 2018, molecular phylogenetic analysis revealed that Xanadu and several related species were genetically distinct enough to warrant their own genus, and they were reclassified into Thaumatophyllum [6]. You’ll still find it sold everywhere as Philodendron xanadu — the care is identical. What makes it special is the deeply lobed, leathery foliage on a compact self-heading frame that can reach 1–1.5 m indoors. It’s more light-demanding than the heartleaf group and won’t perform well in dim conditions.

Growth habit: Self-heading | Light: Medium to bright indirect | Difficulty: Intermediate | Rarity/Price: Common, £20–£50 | Size: Up to 1–1.5 m

10. Selloum / Hope (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum)

The most structurally dramatic plant in this list. Selloum/Hope is a tree-forming self-header that develops a proper trunk with age and sheds lower leaves to create a tropical silhouette that’s hard to replicate with any other houseplant. Also reclassified to Thaumatophyllum in 2018 [6], it’s still widely sold as Philodendron Selloum or Philodendron Hope. The bipinnate (twice-lobed) leaves give a lush, feathery appearance that suits large floor spaces in bright rooms. Allow it adequate floor space — established specimens can reach 2 m indoors. All Thaumatophyllum species are toxic to pets [4].

Growth habit: Self-heading/tree-forming | Light: Medium to bright indirect | Difficulty: Intermediate | Rarity/Price: Common, £25–£80 | Size: 1–2 m indoors

11. Squamiferum (P. squamiferum)

The “Hairy Philodendron” — the stems are covered in distinctive reddish-green bristles (trichomes) that no other philodendron on this list can match for textural interest. The leaves are deeply lobed rather than heart-shaped, more reminiscent of Xanadu in outline, and it’s a genuine climber that looks best on a moss pole where those lobed leaves can expand fully. Care is intermediate: it needs good light, decent drainage, and won’t tolerate sitting in wet soil, but it’s considerably more forgiving than the high-rarity climbers below.

Growth habit: Climbing | Light: Bright indirect | Difficulty: Intermediate | Rarity/Price: Uncommon, £30–£80 | Size: Vines to 1.5 m

12. Melanochrysum (P. melanochrysum)

One of the most dramatically maturing plants in the philodendron world — the “Black Gold Philodendron” starts each new leaf as a fleshy bronze-pink that gradually matures into a deep near-black green with contrasting golden veins set against a velvety surface. Mature leaves on a well-supported plant can reach 60 cm in length. It grows slowly, needs bright indirect light, and prefers humidity above 55%. This is a plant for patient growers who find the slow process of watching a leaf unfurl and darken over weeks genuinely satisfying — rather than growers wanting quick results.

Growth habit: Climbing | Light: Bright indirect | Difficulty: Intermediate–Advanced | Rarity/Price: Rare, £80–£300 | Size: Vines to 2 m; leaves to 60 cm

13. Florida Ghost (P. ‘Florida Ghost’)

A collector’s hybrid (P. squamiferum × P. pedatum) best known for the dramatic pale new-leaf reveal: each unfurling leaf emerges ghostly white or cream-coloured before maturing through yellow-green to darker green. The “ghost” effect is most spectacular on the youngest growth, so you’re always waiting for the next leaf — which keeps things interesting. The mature foliage is lobed, similar to its squamiferum parent. It’s genuinely rare in the trade, priced accordingly, and needs bright indirect light to maintain that distinctive pale variegation in new growth.

Growth habit: Climbing | Light: Bright indirect | Difficulty: Intermediate | Rarity/Price: Rare–Very Rare, £100–£400 | Size: Vines to 1.5 m

14. Ring of Fire (P. ‘Ring of Fire’)

The most extravagant hybrid in this list. Ring of Fire (a cross between P. wendlandii and P. tortum) produces jagged, elongated lobed leaves in up to five colours simultaneously: cream, yellow, orange, red, and green. Every single plant is genetically unique, meaning the variegation pattern on yours won’t match anyone else’s exactly — which is part of the appeal for collectors. It’s a patented cultivar, genuinely rare, expensive, and demanding: variegation quality depends on consistent bright light and adequate humidity, and poor conditions push growth back toward green. A serious collector’s plant, not a casual purchase.

Growth habit: Climbing | Light: Bright indirect | Difficulty: Advanced | Rarity/Price: Very Rare, £200–£800+ | Size: Vines to 1.5 m

15. Verrucosum (P. verrucosum)

The jewel of the climbing collectors. Verrucosum produces large, velvety, heart-shaped leaves in deep green with dramatic pale-green to almost-white veining — similar to Gloriosum in the velvet texture, but with a climbing habit and a distinctly different colour mood. The hairy stems are characteristic and distinctive. It’s native to high-altitude cloud forests in Colombia and Ecuador [5], which explains its strong preference for humidity above 60%, consistent temperatures, and bright indirect light. It won’t forgive cold drafts, wet soil, or dim conditions. When a healthy Verrucosum is producing mature leaves on a tall moss pole, there’s little in the houseplant world to match it.

Growth habit: Climbing | Light: Bright indirect (essential) | Difficulty: Advanced | Rarity/Price: Very Rare, £150–£500+ | Size: Vines to 2 m; leaves to 60 cm

Philodendron Varieties: At a Glance

VarietyGrowth TypeLightDifficultyRarity / PriceSize
HeartleafClimbing/TrailingLow–BrightBeginnerVery common / £5–£15Vines to 3 m+
BrasilClimbing/TrailingMedium–BrightBeginnerVery common / £8–£18Vines to 2 m+
Lemon LimeTrailing/ClimbingLow–BrightBeginnerCommon / £8–£18Vines to 2 m+
MicansTrailing/ClimbingLow–BrightBeginnerCommon / £10–£22Vines to 2 m
BirkinSelf-headingMedium–BrightBeginner–Inter.Common / £12–£25Up to 70 cm
Prince of OrangeSelf-headingMedium–BrightIntermediateCommon–Uncommon / £15–£35Up to 60 cm
Pink PrincessClimbingBrightIntermediateCommon / £15–£80Vines to 1.5 m
GloriosumTerrestrial creeperBrightIntermediateRare / £50–£200Leaves to 50 cm
XanaduSelf-headingMedium–BrightIntermediateCommon / £20–£50Up to 1.5 m
Selloum / HopeSelf-headingMedium–BrightIntermediateCommon / £25–£801–2 m indoors
SquamiferumClimbingBrightIntermediateUncommon / £30–£80Vines to 1.5 m
MelanochrysumClimbingBrightIntermediate–Adv.Rare / £80–£300Vines to 2 m
Florida GhostClimbingBrightIntermediateVery Rare / £100–£400Vines to 1.5 m
Ring of FireClimbingBrightAdvancedVery Rare / £200–£800+Vines to 1.5 m
VerrucosumClimbingBright (essential)AdvancedVery Rare / £150–£500+Vines to 2 m

Best Philodendrons for Beginners

If you’re new to philodendrons — or to houseplants in general — these three are the best starting points. All three forgive the most common beginner mistakes (irregular watering, imperfect light, inconsistent feeding) and still grow well. They’re also widely available in most garden centres and online plant shops at reasonable prices. For a broader look at the best starter houseplants beyond philodendrons, see our best houseplants for beginners guide.

  • Heartleaf Philodendron — The most forgiving plant in this entire list. It tolerates low light, infrequent watering, and cool temperatures better than any other variety here. The fastest-growing and easiest to propagate. If you’ve ever killed a houseplant before, start here.
  • Brasil — All the ease of the heartleaf but with variegated leaves that look far more impressive. The only extra requirement is slightly brighter light to maintain the lime-green colouring. Excellent for a bright room or east-facing windowsill.
  • Micans — A small step up in attention required (water carefully; don’t let it sit wet), but the velvety bronze-green leaves provide a texture and depth that plain heartleaf can’t match. Worth it for the tactile experience alone.

Best Rare and Collector Philodendrons

If you’re an experienced grower ready to invest in something genuinely special, these three stand out from the collector’s tier — each for a different reason. All three require specific conditions and won’t be forgiving of neglect, but they offer visual drama that common varieties simply can’t match.

  • Verrucosum — The most striking veining in the entire philodendron genus. Deep green velvet leaves with near-white veins, climbing to impressive heights on a tall moss pole. The rarity and care demands are real, but the payoff when it’s thriving is genuinely exceptional.
  • Melanochrysum — The most theatrical maturation process: bronze-pink juvenile leaves darkening slowly to near-black gold over weeks. A plant that rewards attention and patience. Each new leaf is an event.
  • Ring of Fire — The only plant in this list with reliable five-colour variegation. Genetically unique from one specimen to the next. It’s expensive, rare, and demanding — but it’s also completely unlike anything else in the houseplant world.

Best Trailing Philodendrons

If your priority is a cascading, trailing display — hanging basket, high shelf, or flowing over a bookcase — these three are the top picks. All are from the heartleaf family and share the same easy care profile, but each has a distinct visual character. Remember: they’ll happily trail, but give them a moss pole and they’ll also climb and produce larger leaves if you change your mind.

  • Heartleaf — The fastest-growing trailer in this list. Long cascading vines with classic dark-green heart-shaped leaves. Grows in almost any light level. A hanging basket of mature heartleaf in good light is genuinely impressive.
  • Micans — The most visually luxurious trailer. That velvety, iridescent bronzy-green texture looks exceptional when the light catches a long cascade. Slower than heartleaf but more elegant.
  • Lemon Lime — The most vivid. Neon-yellow-green vines trailing from a shelf or basket create a statement that’s hard to ignore. An excellent choice for a room that needs a visual focal point.

Philodendron Care Essentials

Most philodendrons share the same fundamental needs, with the main variation being humidity tolerance between the common and collector varieties. Here’s what matters most.

Light

The majority of philodendrons want bright indirect light — the kind you’d get 1–2 metres from an east- or west-facing window, or filtered through a sheer curtain on a south-facing window. Clemson University’s Extension service confirms that green-leaved varieties like heartleaf genuinely tolerate low light, though growth slows and internodes stretch [2]. Variegated varieties (Brasil, Pink Princess, Birkin) need substantially more — less chlorophyll means more light required to compensate. If a variegated philodendron is reverting toward solid green, insufficient light is the culprit in nine cases out of ten. Heartleaf and Lemon Lime are also excellent low-light houseplant choices for dimmer rooms.

Watering

Let the top 3–5 cm of soil dry between waterings for most varieties. Water thoroughly (until it drains from the bottom), empty the saucer after 30 minutes, and repeat when the soil surface has dried again. In winter, growth slows substantially — water less frequently and check the soil before adding more. University of Minnesota Extension notes overwatering as the primary cause of decline in houseplant philodendrons [3]. Rare varieties like Verrucosum and Melanochrysum are especially sensitive.

Humidity

Common heartleaf-group varieties handle average household humidity (40–50%) without issue. Collector varieties — Gloriosum, Melanochrysum, Verrucosum, Florida Ghost — prefer 55–65%+ and benefit noticeably from a humidifier or pebble tray. If you see brown, crispy leaf edges on a rare philodendron, check humidity before checking anything else.

Soil

All philodendrons need well-draining, airy soil that won’t compact around the roots. A reliable mix: 2 parts coco coir or peat, 1 part perlite, 1 part orchid bark. The orchid bark creates the air pockets these epiphytic plants evolved to grow in. Standard potting mix works in a pinch, but add 20–30% perlite to improve drainage. When you’re ready to repot — typically every 1–2 years as roots start emerging from drainage holes — our complete houseplant repotting guide covers the full process step by step.

Support and Feeding

Climbing varieties grow significantly better with a moss pole: they produce larger leaves, shorter internodes, and more mature-looking foliage than the same plant left to trail. Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser at half strength every 4–6 weeks from spring through early autumn; stop completely in winter. Over-fertilising shows as brown, crispy leaf edges — which looks identical to underwatering, so always check both. For the complete picture on care across all growth types, see our full philodendron care guide.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Are Xanadu and Selloum still philodendrons?

Technically, no. In 2018, a molecular study reclassified both into the new genus Thaumatophyllum, based on genetic differences and their tree-like growth habit (they develop trunks and shed lower leaves with age — behaviour unlike true herbaceous philodendrons). You’ll still see them sold as Philodendron Xanadu and Philodendron Hope or Selloum everywhere, and the care is identical — but the correct botanical names are now Thaumatophyllum xanadu and Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum [6].

Is Pink Princess still rare?

Not anymore. Tissue culture propagation has made Pink Princess widely available since around 2023, and prices have dropped significantly. What you’re now paying for is variegation quality — plants with large, stable, evenly distributed pink sections command a premium, while plants with minimal pink or reverted growth are much cheaper. The rarity story is largely over; it’s now a quality question [2].

Which philodendron is best for low light?

Heartleaf Philodendron is the clear winner. It genuinely tolerates low light rather than merely surviving it, and it’s one of the few philodendrons that maintains reasonable growth in a north-facing room. Lemon Lime and Micans are also good low-light options, though they perform better with at least medium indirect light. Variegated varieties, self-heading types like Xanadu, and all collector varieties (Gloriosum, Melanochrysum, Verrucosum) need brighter conditions than a dim room provides.

Do philodendrons need a moss pole?

Climbing varieties don’t need one, but they benefit enormously from one. Without support, a climbing philodendron stays in its juvenile form — smaller leaves, longer internodes, trailing growth. Add a moss pole, keep it moist, and the aerial roots attach within weeks. Within a growing season, the leaves noticeably increase in size. Self-heading varieties (Birkin, Xanadu, Selloum/Hope, Prince of Orange) don’t need or produce trailing stems, so no support is required.

Conclusion

With over 627 species in the genus, there’s a philodendron for practically every situation — whether you want something virtually indestructible for a low-light corner, an architectural statement plant for a well-lit living room, or a rare collector’s specimen to grow on a tall moss pole. The 15 varieties in this guide cover the full range of what’s available indoors, from the £5 heartleaf to the £800 Ring of Fire. Start with your growth-habit requirement (trailing, upright, or climbing), match it to your light and humidity, and pick accordingly. The genus rewards curiosity: there’s always something more interesting to grow next.

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