10 Companion Plants That Help Strawberries Yield More Berries (and What to Avoid)

Strawberries set 55% more fruit with open pollination. Here are 5 research-backed companion plants with verified nursery prices and what to avoid.

Open-pollinated strawberry plants set fruit 55% more reliably than unpollinated ones, and the berries they produce are heavier, less misshapen, and measurably sweeter — that’s not gardening folklore, it comes from a peer-reviewed study in the Saudi Journal of Biological Sciences [1]. The fastest way to get that pollination boost in a home bed is to give beneficial insects a reason to visit. That’s the core logic behind strawberry companion planting: put the right neighbours in place, and your strawberries work harder without extra effort from you.

This guide is a buying resource. You’ll find the five best companion plants for strawberries with verified nursery prices, the research behind each pairing, five more worth adding if space allows, and a clear list of plants that actively harm your crop. If you want the full growing picture for your strawberry bed, start with the strawberry growing guide — this article focuses specifically on what to plant alongside them.

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Top 5 Companion Plants for Strawberries: Quick Comparison

Companion PlantBest ForStarting Price
Borage (Borago officinalis)Pollinator attraction, yield increase$2.99 / 2g seeds (True Leaf Market)
French Marigold (Tagetes patula)Nematode suppression, spider mite reductionFrom $2.99 / packet (True Leaf Market)
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)Aphid and spider mite deterrenceFrom $2.99 / packet (True Leaf Market)
White Clover (Trifolium repens)Nitrogen fixation, living mulch$11.35 / lb (American Meadows)
Creeping Thyme (Thymus serpyllum)Ground-cover pest barrier, weed suppression$2.99 / 250mg seeds (True Leaf Market)

Why Companion Planting Works for Strawberries

Three biological mechanisms explain most of the benefit you’ll read about in this guide.

Pollinator attraction. Strawberry flowers are small and self-fertile, but insect visits dramatically improve fruit set and berry size [1]. Research from the University of Minnesota’s West Central Research and Outreach Center found that the primary strawberry flower visitors are hoverflies and native sweat bees — not honeybees — so plants that attract this broader range of insects deliver the most benefit [2]. A 2024 study in the Journal of Pollination Ecology confirmed that bumblebee and hoverfly combinations produce higher marketable yields and measurably elevated vitamin C levels compared to single-species pollination [4].

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Pest disruption through volatile compounds. Several companion plants release sulfur-based or aromatic compounds that interfere with how pest insects locate their hosts. These work passively — no spraying required — as long as you keep the companion plants in close proximity.

Nitrogen fixation. Legumes like clover host Rhizobium bacteria in root nodules that pull atmospheric nitrogen into the soil. Well-established white clover can fix 75 to 200 pounds of nitrogen per acre annually, according to University of Nebraska-Lincoln research [10], reducing your need for supplemental fertiliser.

For a broader look at pairing strategies across your vegetable garden, the companion planting guide covers multi-crop combinations in detail.

Companion plants borage and marigolds growing alongside strawberry plants with a bee pollinating
Borage attracts bumblebees and hoverflies that then pollinate nearby strawberry flowers, increasing berry size and fruit set

Borage — The Pollinator Powerhouse

If you plant one companion in your strawberry bed this season, make it borage. University of Minnesota researchers found that individual berry weight was significantly higher in strawberry plants growing within 50 feet of a borage flower patch — and that advantage diminished measurably as distance increased [2][3]. The mechanism is straightforward: borage flowers produce nectar at an accessible depth throughout the season, attracting a diverse range of pollinators that then work the nearby strawberry flowers. Pollinator communities around borage include bumblebees, honeybees, native sweat bees, and hoverflies — the last two being the most frequent strawberry flower visitors in the UMN research [3].

Borage is an annual that self-sows freely, so a single planting often becomes semi-permanent. Direct sow seeds after last frost — borage develops a taproot and resents transplanting. Space plants roughly 12 inches apart, one per strawberry row every three to four feet. The star-shaped blue flowers are edible and continuously produced, so the plant earns its space aesthetically as well.

Where to buy: True Leaf Market carries borage seeds starting at $2.99 for a 2g packet, with 1oz available at $6.67 [11]. One 2g packet contains enough seed for a generous border along two or three strawberry rows.

French Marigolds — The Nematode Blocker

French marigolds (Tagetes patula, not African marigolds) release a compound called alpha-terthienyl from their living roots. This compound is nematicidal — it inhibits the hatching of nematode eggs in surrounding soil — but only while the roots are actively growing. Cut marigolds or dried plant matter have no nematicidal effect, which is why you need to grow them in-bed rather than apply marigold mulch [9]. Mississippi State University Extension recommends spacing plants 7 inches apart in 7-inch rows for maximum root coverage in pest-prone beds [9].

Beyond nematodes, garlic-family intercropping research has shown that Allium species reduce spider mite populations by 44 to 65% in field conditions [7], and marigolds show similar VOC-mediated deterrence of soft-bodied insects. French marigolds also attract hoverflies whose larvae feed on aphids — a double benefit in a strawberry bed where aphid pressure is common.

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Choose Tagetes patula varieties specifically. Good options include Dainty Marietta (single-flowered, maximum open access for pollinators) or Bonanza Series (double, dense nematode-suppressing root mass). Avoid African marigolds (T. erecta) for pest management — alpha-terthienyl concentration is lower and the large plants compete for space.

Where to buy: True Leaf Market sells French marigold seeds from $2.99 per packet for Dainty Marietta and Naughty Marietta varieties, or $4.09 for the Durango Series [12].

Chives — The Low-Maintenance Pest Deterrent

Chives belong to the Allium family and produce the same sulfur-based volatile compounds — primarily allyl disulfide — that make garlic a documented pest suppressor. When a 2016 study in Experimental and Applied Acarology planted garlic between strawberry rows, spider mite mobile forms dropped 44 to 65% in field conditions, with egg counts reduced 38 to 64% [7]. Chives showed a similar direction of effect in that same trial, with a 50% reduction in one assessed sample. The mechanism is disruption of the mite’s host-finding chemistry: the sulfur compounds mask the strawberry plant’s signature, making it harder for pests to locate [8].

The practical advantage of chives over garlic is longevity. Chives are a perennial herb that returns for years with minimal care. Plant them as a border around the strawberry bed or in alternating spaces between rows. They flower in late spring — those globe-shaped purple blooms are highly attractive to bees and hoverflies, adding pollinator value on top of the pest deterrence.

Divide clumps every two to three years to maintain vigour. Common chives and garlic chives (A. tuberosum) both work; garlic chives produce higher allyl sulfide concentrations per plant weight [8].

Where to buy: True Leaf Market offers common chive seeds from $2.99 per packet and garlic chives from $2.99, with organic options at $3.59 [13]. Chives are also readily available as established divisions at farmers’ markets in spring — starting with divisions saves a full growing season.

White Clover — The Living Mulch Nitrogen-Fixer

White clover does three jobs simultaneously: it fixes atmospheric nitrogen, suppresses weeds by covering bare soil between strawberry plants, and produces small white flowers that attract bees throughout the season. Well-established stands can fix 75 to 200 pounds of nitrogen per acre per year — but the startup timeline matters. University of Nebraska-Lincoln researchers note that nitrogen fixation doesn’t begin until about six weeks after planting, and the clover must establish a biomass of over 1,500 pounds per acre before contributing meaningfully [10]. Plant it well before your strawberries go in, or the previous autumn for spring strawberry planting.

The main management challenge with clover is runner interference. Strawberry plants spread by runners along the soil surface, and a dense clover groundcover can impede runner rooting. Mow the clover to 2 to 3 inches every few weeks during peak strawberry runner season to keep it accessible. Dutch white clover stays compact and is less aggressive than red clover — the better choice for beds you want to actively manage.

In zones 4 to 9, white clover functions as a perennial living mulch that overwinters and fills in gaps each spring. In warmer zones (10+), it may behave as an annual.

Where to buy: American Meadows sells white clover seeds at $11.35 per pound (on sale, regular $11.95) [14] — enough for a large bed. For smaller plantings, True Leaf Market carries Dutch white clover in a 4g starter packet for $2.99 [15].

Creeping Thyme — The Ground-Cover Pest Barrier

Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) releases thymol and carvacrol — volatile aromatic compounds that have documented repellent effects on several strawberry pests including aphids and thrips. As a groundcover that stays under 3 inches tall, it fills the same weed-suppression role as white clover without the nitrogen fixation tradeoff. Unlike clover, it doesn’t produce runners and won’t compete with strawberry stolons for rooting space.

Creeping thyme is exceptionally hardy in zones 3 to 9 and tolerates foot traffic, making it practical between bed rows or along path edges. The small pink-purple flowers bloom in early summer and attract bumblebees and native bees — timing that overlaps well with late strawberry flowering in most US zones.

Establish creeping thyme from seed or live plants. From seed it takes two full seasons to form a dense groundcover — live plants from a nursery give you immediate coverage. Plant 12 to 18 inches apart for the first season; the plants spread to fill gaps by year two.

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Where to buy: True Leaf Market carries creeping thyme seeds at $2.99 for a 250mg packet (approximately 50,000 seeds) [16]. For instant coverage, Nature Hills sells quart-container live plants at $16.99 each [17] — three plants cover roughly 9 square feet by the second season.

Five More Good Companions Worth Adding

Nasturtiums act as a trap crop — aphids preferentially colonise nasturtium leaves over strawberry foliage. Plant them at the bed perimeter so aphid populations concentrate where you can easily remove them. Bonus: flowers are edible.

Dill and fennel produce flat-topped flower clusters (umbels) that attract hoverflies, parasitic wasps, and lacewings — all predators of common strawberry pests. Fennel can be allelopathic to some plants but strawberries are not significantly affected; keep it at the bed edge to be safe.

Spinach serves as a low-maintenance living mulch for early-season strawberry beds. It germinates in cool soil, covers bare ground before strawberry runners fill in, and bolts before the hottest summer weather, dying back naturally without competition during peak berry production.

Garlic planted between strawberry rows in autumn delivers the strongest Allium pest suppression — the same mechanism as chives but with denser sulfur compound concentration. The 2016 intercropping study showed garlic at higher densities achieved 65% field reduction in spider mite mobile forms [7]. Harvest cloves in July, leaving the ground open for summer strawberry runner management.

Yarrow in small patches near the strawberry bed attracts parasitic wasps, lacewings, and hoverflies in significant numbers. It’s best kept outside the bed itself as it can spread aggressively — a pot or a narrow border strip works well.

What to Avoid Planting Near Strawberries

Choosing the wrong neighbours causes more damage than not companion planting at all. The most serious risk is Verticillium wilt.

Nightshades — the five-year rule. Tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant, and melons all host Verticillium dahliae, a soil-borne pathogen that persists in the soil for years after the host plant is gone. Ohio State University Extension lists tomato, pepper, potato, eggplant, melons, okra, mint, brambles, stone fruits, chrysanthemums, and roses as crops requiring a five-year gap before replanting to strawberries in that soil [5]. Never grow strawberries and any of these plants simultaneously in the same bed — root contact is enough for transmission.

Mint. Mint sits on both the invasive-spread and the Verticillium wilt host lists. It spreads via underground stolons and can overwhelm a strawberry bed within one season. OSU Extension includes mint in its five-year rotation list [5] — keep it in containers if you grow it at all near strawberry areas.

Brassicas. Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and kale are heavy feeders that compete directly with strawberries for soil nutrients and root space. Broccoli crop rotation can actually reduce Verticillium inoculum in soil over time (a useful pre-strawberry strategy), but growing broccoli alongside strawberries is counter-productive — the nutrient competition reduces berry yield measurably.

Tall, shade-casting plants. Strawberries need full sun — at least six hours of direct light per day. Sunflowers, corn, and large tomato cages at the wrong orientation can create afternoon shade that reduces fruit production more than any companion plant benefit compensates for.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How close should companion plants be to strawberries? For pollinator attractors like borage, University of Minnesota research suggests the benefit is strongest within 50 feet — beyond that, berry weight dropped significantly [2]. For pest-deterring plants like chives and marigolds, closer is better: alternating rows or 12- to 18-inch spacing between companion and strawberry plant gives maximum volatile compound exposure.

Can I companion plant in raised beds? Yes, and it’s often easier to manage. In a 4×8 raised bed, plant one borage plant at each short end and a chive clump at each corner. Creeping thyme along the inside bed walls provides pest deterrence and weed suppression without competing with the main growing area. Avoid white clover in raised beds — the runner interference in confined space is harder to manage.

Do companion plants work for everbearing strawberries as well as June-bearers? The pollinator and pest-deterrence mechanisms apply equally to both types. With everbearing varieties, pollinator attractors are particularly valuable since the plants flower continuously from spring through autumn — longer windows where pollinator abundance directly affects fruit set.

Sources

  1. Abrol, D.P. et al. (2017). ‘Impact of insect pollinators on yield and fruit quality of strawberry.’ Saudi Journal of Biological Sciences. PMC6408693
  2. University of Minnesota Fruit Research. ‘Berries, Bees, and Borage.’ fruit.umn.edu
  3. University of Minnesota Horticultural Science. ‘Bees, Berries, and Borage.’ horticulture.umn.edu
  4. James, K. et al. (2024). ‘Buzzing benefits: How multi-species pollination boosts strawberry yield, quality, and nutritional value.’ Journal of Pollination Ecology, Vol. 37. DOI: 10.26786/1920-7603(2024)788
  5. Ohio State University Extension. ‘Verticillium Wilt of Strawberry.’ ohioline.osu.edu
  6. Penn State Extension. ‘Strawberry Disease — Verticillium Wilt.’ extension.psu.edu
  7. Hata, F.T. et al. (2016). ‘Intercropping garlic plants reduces Tetranychus urticae in strawberry crop.’ Experimental & Applied Acarology, 69(3), 311-321. PubMed 27085718
  8. PMC (2017). ‘Think Yellow and Keep Green — Role of Sulfanes from Garlic in Agriculture.’ PMC5384167
  9. Mississippi State University Extension. ‘Nematode Control in the Home Garden.’ extension.msstate.edu
  10. University of Nebraska-Lincoln CropWatch. ‘Is Nitrogen Fixation Oversold with Legume Cover Crops?’ cropwatch.unl.edu
  11. True Leaf Market. Borage herb seeds. trueleafmarket.com
  12. True Leaf Market. French marigold seeds. trueleafmarket.com
  13. True Leaf Market. Chive seeds. trueleafmarket.com
  14. American Meadows. White clover seeds. americanmeadows.com
  15. True Leaf Market. White Dutch clover seeds. trueleafmarket.com
  16. True Leaf Market. Creeping thyme seeds. trueleafmarket.com
  17. Nature Hills. Creeping thyme plants. naturehills.com
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