Anthurium Care Guide: How to Grow and Maintain Anthurium Plants
Anthuriums are among the most visually striking houseplants you can grow. Their waxy, heart-shaped spathes — the colourful leaf-like structures most people call flowers — come in deep arterial red, soft coral, pale pink, pure white, and near-black, and they persist on the plant for months at a time. As a horticulturist with 25 years of professional experience, I’m Marzena Rewers, and anthuriums are one of my favourite genera: genuinely beautiful, long-lived, and far more rewarding than they are often given credit for. In this anthurium care guide I will walk you through everything from species selection to identifying and correcting the most common problems, so you can get the best from these extraordinary plants.
The good news is that anthurium care is entirely learnable once you understand what the plant is and where it comes from. The genus Anthurium is native to the humid tropical forests of Central and South America, where most species grow as epiphytes — anchored on tree bark or in the leaf-litter of the forest floor rather than in conventional garden soil. Their natural growing environment is one of warm temperatures, high ambient humidity, excellent drainage, and bright but filtered light beneath the forest canopy. Replicate those conditions — which translates to bright indirect light, a chunky free-draining mix, consistent warmth, and reasonable humidity — and your anthurium will thrive and produce flowers intermittently almost year-round.
Quick Anthurium Care Reference
| Factor | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright indirect light; avoid direct sun on foliage or spathes |
| Water | Allow top 2–3 cm of growing medium to dry between waterings |
| Humidity | 50–80% relative humidity preferred |
| Temperature | 18–29°C (65–85°F); minimum 15°C (60°F) |
| Soil / Mix | Chunky, well-aerated epiphyte or aroid mix; never standard compost |
| Fertiliser | Half-strength balanced liquid feed every 3–4 weeks in growing season |
| Repotting | Every 2–3 years or when roots fill the pot |
| Toxicity | Toxic to humans and pets — calcium oxalate crystals in all plant parts |
Anthurium Species and Varieties: Which Should You Grow?
With over 1,000 described species, the genus Anthurium encompasses an extraordinary range of plants — from the small, readily available houseplant varieties you find in every supermarket to rare collector’s specimens with metre-long velvety leaves. Here are the most significant and widely grown.
Anthurium andraeanum (Flamingo Flower)
This is the anthurium that most people know and grow: glossy, heart-shaped spathes in red, deep pink, white, orange, or salmon-pink, held above dark green foliage on long petioles. The actual flower is the finger-like yellow or cream spadix that protrudes from the spathe. A. andraeanum hybrids and cultivars are far the most widely cultivated anthuriums, bred over decades for compact growth, large colourful spathes, and adaptability to typical indoor conditions. With reliable care they will produce flowers almost continuously through the warmer months, and intermittently even in winter. The best starting point for any new anthurium grower.
Seasonal Garden Calendar
Know exactly what to plant, prune and sow — every month of the year.
Anthurium scherzerianum (Pigtail Anthurium)
Closely related to andraeanum but distinguishable by its distinctive spiralled or curled spadix, which gives rise to the common name. Spathes are narrower and more lance-shaped, coming in red, orange, pink, or white. Compact in habit and very tolerant of average home humidity levels — slightly easier in this respect than the larger flamingo flower hybrids. An excellent windowsill plant for small spaces.
Anthurium clarinervium
A velvet-leaved foliage species, not grown for its flowers but for its exceptionally decorative large, heart-shaped leaves of deep matte green with dramatically contrasting white or pale-green veining. Native to the limestone outcrops of Chiapas in Mexico, it demands very well-draining soil (it is sensitive to root rot), higher humidity than most homes naturally provide (aim for 60% or above), and bright indirect light. A superb specimen for a terrarium, a dedicated grow-space, or a bathroom with strong natural light. A collectors’ favourite and one of the most visually striking houseplants available.
Anthurium crystallinum
Another velvety foliage species, bearing large, pendent leaves of deep emerald-green with prominent silvery-white veining. On a mature specimen, individual leaves can exceed 60 cm in length. Similar care requirements to clarinervium — high humidity, excellent drainage, bright filtered light — and similarly rewarding when the conditions are right. A. crystallinum × clarinervium hybrids combine the velvety texture of both parents and are widely available in the collector market.
Anthurium warocqueanum (Queen Anthurium)
Perhaps the most dramatic anthurium in cultivation. Native to Colombia’s humid cloud forests, warocqueanum produces long, pendent, strap-shaped leaves of deep matte velvet with striking silver veining — individual leaves on mature specimens reach 90–120 cm indoors under ideal conditions. It is one of the most sought-after aroid houseplants and, correspondingly, one of the most demanding. It requires high stable humidity (above 70% ideally), a very free-draining chunky mix, consistent warmth (never below 18°C), and bright indirect light. For a comprehensive guide to its specific requirements, read our dedicated article on Anthurium warocqueanum care.
Anthurium superbum (Bird’s Nest Anthurium)
A distinctive epiphytic species that forms a broad, upright rosette of elongated leaves with an open funnel at the centre — an adaptation for collecting rainfall and falling organic debris in the canopy. Less dramatic than the velvety species but architecturally interesting and relatively tolerant of the lower humidity levels of typical homes. The flowers are modest; this is grown primarily for its strong structural form.
Light Requirements for Anthuriums
In their native forest habitat, anthuriums grow beneath a canopy that filters and diffuses sunlight. This means they have evolved for bright, indirect light — high light intensity, but never direct sun. Indoors, the ideal position is within one to two metres of a large, unobstructed east- or west-facing window, which provides strong ambient light without direct midday sun falling on the plant. A north-facing window can work if it is large and the plant is placed close to it. South-facing windows provide excellent light intensity but require the plant to be positioned to the side of the window rather than directly in front, to avoid direct afternoon sun reaching the foliage.
Insufficient light is the most common single reason anthuriums fail to flower indoors. The plant will continue to produce foliage in moderate light, but will not generate the energy required to develop spathes. If your anthurium is producing healthy-looking leaves but no flowers, try moving it progressively closer to the best-lit window in your home. Grow lights — full-spectrum LED panels run for 12–14 hours per day — are an effective solution in darker rooms or during the short days of a northern European winter.
Signs of excessive direct sun on anthuriums are unmistakable: bleached or bronzed pale patches appear on the spathes and foliage, leaf edges may become crispy and brown, and the growing medium dries out unusually rapidly. If you observe any of these signs, move the plant away from direct light immediately. Signs of insufficient light are more subtle: very dark, dense-green foliage (the plant maximising its chlorophyll to capture available light), unusually long petioles as leaves extend toward the light source, and the absence of new flower spikes.
Watering Anthuriums: Avoiding the Number One Mistake
Overwatering kills more anthuriums than any other cause, and it does so quickly. These plants have adapted to the wet-dry cycles of their natural forest environment: periods of heavy rain followed by periods where the bark or leaf-litter they grow in dries partially before the next rainfall. Their root systems are structured for oxygen availability as much as moisture uptake, and prolonged saturation deprives the roots of oxygen, causing cells to die and pathogens to colonise the weakened tissue rapidly.
The correct watering approach is to water the plant thoroughly — ensuring the entire growing medium is moistened and water drains freely from the pot’s drainage holes — and then wait until the top 2–3 cm of the growing medium has dried out before watering again. Do not water on a fixed schedule; instead, check the moisture level before each watering by pressing your finger into the medium or by using a moisture meter. During the active growing season (typically spring through summer), most anthuriums in average-sized pots need watering every seven to ten days. In autumn and winter when growth slows, extend this interval to ten to fourteen days or even longer for small pots.
Never allow the pot to sit in a saucer of standing water. Drainage must be immediate and complete. If your pot has a saucer, empty it within 30 minutes of watering. Root rot can develop in as little as 24–48 hours in a saturated, poorly-draining medium at warm room temperature.
Water quality has a measurable impact on anthuriums over time. Hard tap water, with high levels of dissolved calcium and fluoride, causes progressive brown tip burn and white mineral deposits on the growing medium surface. Where possible, use filtered water, collected rainwater, or tap water that has been left to stand in an open container for 24 hours (which allows chlorine to dissipate; it does not, however, remove hardness minerals). Always use water at room temperature — cold water shocks tropical root systems and can trigger yellow leaves.
Soil and Potting Mix for Anthuriums
One of the most important factors in growing anthuriums successfully is choosing the right growing medium. Standard peat-based or coir-based potting composts are entirely unsuitable — they are designed to retain moisture, which is precisely the opposite of what anthurium roots need. A dense, moisture-retentive compost will cause root rot within weeks in the warm conditions anthuriums prefer.
The ideal anthurium growing medium is chunky, highly porous, and fast-draining. It should hold just enough moisture to sustain the plant between waterings while allowing the majority of water to drain straight through and ensuring excellent oxygen availability at the root zone. A reliable home-made mix:
- 40% orchid bark (medium grade, approximately 1–2 cm chips)
- 30% perlite or pumice
- 20% peat-free compost or coco coir
- 10% horticultural charcoal
This mixture drains rapidly, provides exceptional air porosity around the roots, and still retains enough moisture to avoid the plant drying out too quickly between waterings. The charcoal helps keep the medium sweet and deters certain pathogens. Pre-mixed orchid mixes or dedicated aroid mixes from specialist houseplant suppliers are equally effective. Avoid any mix that contains moisture-retaining crystals or added wetting agents — these are specifically designed to prevent the rapid drainage that anthuriums require.
The pot itself matters too. Terracotta pots breathe and dry out more quickly than plastic or glazed ceramic containers, which can be an advantage for overwatering-prone growers. Whatever material you choose, ensure there are generously sized drainage holes at the base and that the pot is not excessively large relative to the plant’s root system — an oversized pot holds a disproportionate volume of moist growing medium that the plant’s roots cannot absorb, greatly increasing the risk of root rot.
Temperature and Humidity Requirements
Anthuriums are tropical plants that thrive in warm, stable conditions. The optimal temperature range is 18–29°C (65–85°F). They can tolerate brief dips to around 15°C (60°F) without lasting harm, but sustained cool temperatures slow growth substantially and cause leaves to yellow and drop. Temperatures below 12°C cause significant physiological stress. Keep anthuriums away from draughts — cold air flowing from air-conditioning vents, the gap beneath a window in winter, or an exterior door that opens and closes repeatedly — as cold air drafts cause more immediate damage than simple low temperatures.
Heating radiators present a different but related problem: they dry the air directly around the plant significantly, reducing ambient humidity and increasing the risk of brown leaf tips and spider mite infestations. Keep anthuriums at least one metre away from any direct heat source.
Humidity is critical for anthuriums, and this is the most challenging environmental parameter to manage in most northern European homes. Most anthuriums perform best at 50–80% relative humidity. A typical centrally heated home in the UK runs at 40–50% in winter, which is borderline acceptable for the forgiving A. andraeanum hybrids but insufficient for the demanding velvety species like clarinervium, crystallinum, or warocqueanum. Practical methods for increasing local humidity include:
- Ultrasonic humidifier: The most effective and consistent solution. Position the humidifier within one metre of the plants and set it to maintain 60–70% humidity. Ultrasonic humidifiers are quiet and energy-efficient.
- Plant grouping: Grouping several plants together creates a shared microclimate with measurably higher humidity than the surrounding room, as plants transpire moisture from their leaves.
- Pebble tray: A wide tray or saucer filled with gravel or pebbles and water, with the pot sitting on the pebbles above the waterline, provides a modest but real local humidity increase through evaporation. The pot must never touch the water.
- Bathroom or kitchen growing: Rooms that generate steam regularly often provide naturally higher humidity levels. A bathroom or kitchen with adequate indirect light is often the ideal room for humidity-loving houseplants.
Leaf misting, despite being frequently recommended in older houseplant guides, is ineffective as a primary humidity management strategy. Each misting raises local humidity for only a few minutes before the droplets evaporate. Worse, repeated misting on foliage that does not dry rapidly encourages the fungal leaf-spot diseases to which anthuriums are susceptible. A humidifier or pebble tray delivers far more reliable results with less effort.
Fertilising Anthuriums
Anthuriums are moderate feeders — they need regular nutrition during the growing season but are sensitive to over-feeding, which leads to salt build-up in the growing medium and root damage. The safest approach is to use a balanced liquid houseplant fertiliser at half the manufacturer’s recommended concentration every three to four weeks through spring and summer. A balanced formula (equal NPK numbers, such as 10-10-10) supports both foliage and flower development. If flowering is the priority, a fertiliser with a slightly elevated phosphorus content (the middle number in the NPK ratio) provides a modest additional stimulus for spathe production.
In autumn and winter, reduce feeding frequency significantly — once every six to eight weeks is adequate, and stopping entirely through the darkest months is perfectly acceptable when growth is minimal. Feeding a plant that has slowed its metabolism in low-light winter conditions adds fertiliser salts to the medium faster than the plant can utilise them. This accumulation of salts draws water away from root cells through osmosis, causing root tip burn and the progressive browning of leaf tips that many growers mistakenly attribute to other causes.
Approximately every six months, perform a thorough salt flush: water the plant heavily with plain water — several times in succession, allowing it to drain completely between each application. This leaches accumulated fertiliser and mineral salts from the growing medium and gives the root system a reset. You will often see white or brown crusty deposits dissolving and washing through the drainage holes during this process.
Repotting Anthuriums
Most anthuriums need repotting every two to three years, though the best indicator is the plant rather than a fixed schedule. When roots begin to circle the inside base of the pot, emerge through drainage holes, or visibly push the plant upward above the pot rim, it is time to repot. Yellowing foliage, unusually rapid drying-out after watering, and stalled growth despite adequate care are secondary signs that the plant has exhausted its growing medium and root space.
Spring is the ideal time to repot, giving the plant the whole active growing season to re-establish in its new container. Select a pot only one size larger than the current container — typically just 2–3 cm wider in diameter. Anthuriums flower more freely when slightly root-bound; placing a small plant into a much larger pot risks root rot because the excess growing medium stays moist long after the plant has absorbed what it needs.
Always repot into fresh growing medium — never simply top up the existing container. Old growing medium compacts over time, losing its porosity, and can harbour pathogen populations even in apparently healthy plants. When removing the plant, gently tease apart circling roots and trim any that are brown, mushy, or dead. Aerial roots — the thick, cord-like root structures growing from the main stem above the soil line — can be tucked gently into the new growing medium or left exposed; they naturally absorb moisture from the air and do not need to be buried to function. Do not cut healthy aerial roots off.
After repotting, water lightly and place the plant in a warm, bright, humid position out of direct sun for one to two weeks while it adjusts. Some leaf yellowing or wilting immediately after repotting is normal and typically resolves within a week or two.
Common Anthurium Problems and How to Fix Them
Yellow Leaves
The most frequent complaint in anthurium care. A single yellowing lower leaf is normal ageing — remove it cleanly at the base. Multiple yellowing leaves, particularly if the growing medium is wet or smells sour, almost always indicate overwatering and early root rot. Remove the plant from its pot immediately, inspect the roots, and cut away any that are black, brown, or mushy using clean scissors. Dust the cut ends with cinnamon powder or activated charcoal to inhibit fungal spread, repot in fresh dry aroid mix, and water very sparingly for the first three to four weeks while new roots form. Adjusting your watering frequency and ensuring fast drainage are essential to prevent recurrence.
Brown Leaf Tips
Dry, crispy brown tips on otherwise healthy-looking leaves are almost always caused by one or more of: low humidity, mineral or fluoride build-up from hard tap water or over-fertilising, or cold draughts. Increase ambient humidity using a humidifier or pebble tray, flush the growing medium thoroughly with plain water to remove salt build-up, and move the plant away from any cold air source. Switch to filtered or rainwater if you live in a hard-water area.
Brown or Black Spots on Leaves
Irregular pale or brown patches with defined edges typically indicate direct sun scorch — relocate the plant out of direct sunlight. Circular, water-soaked spots that enlarge and turn brown or black suggest fungal disease (most commonly Colletotrichum or Phytophthora species). Remove and dispose of all affected leaves, improve air circulation, stop wetting the foliage, and treat the plant with a copper-based or proprietary houseplant fungicide.
No Flowers Despite Healthy Growth
The most common cause of an anthurium that grows vigorously but produces no spathes is insufficient light. Move the plant significantly closer to a bright window or add supplemental grow lighting. Check that you are including phosphorus in your fertiliser routine during the growing season. Also confirm that the pot is not too large — an anthurium in a pot significantly larger than its root ball is unlikely to flower until its roots fill the available space.
Root Rot
The most serious common anthurium problem and the direct consequence of overwatering or inadequate drainage. Symptoms include wilting despite moist soil, a foul smell from the growing medium, black or mushy roots when the plant is unpotted, and sudden dramatic collapse. Act immediately: remove all affected roots, treat with charcoal or cinnamon, repot in fresh fast-draining mix, and place in a warm, bright, humid position. Severely affected plants often recover if root rot is caught before it reaches the base of the stem.
Mealybugs
White cottony clusters in leaf axils, along stems, and on the undersides of leaves indicate mealybug infestation. Mealybugs feed by piercing plant tissue and extracting sap, weakening the plant and excreting honeydew that encourages sooty mould. Treat individual colonies with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol, then spray the entire plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap solution. Repeat weekly for at least four to six weeks to break the egg cycle. Isolate affected plants immediately to prevent spread.
Spider Mites
Tiny arachnids — barely visible to the naked eye — that thrive in hot, dry conditions. Early signs include silvery stippling on foliage surfaces and fine, dusty webbing between leaves and stems, particularly at growing tips. Increase humidity significantly (spider mites reproduce far more slowly above 60% humidity), wipe all accessible leaf surfaces with a damp cloth to physically remove mites and eggs, and spray thoroughly with neem oil or a specific miticide, reaching the undersides of leaves where mites congregate. Repeat every five to seven days for three to four treatment cycles.
Frequently Asked Questions About Anthurium Care
How often should I water my anthurium?
In spring and summer, water when the top 2–3 cm of the growing medium has dried out — for most plants in average-sized pots, this works out at approximately every seven to ten days. In autumn and winter, extend this to every ten to fourteen days or longer. Always check the soil moisture by touch before watering rather than following a fixed calendar schedule. After watering, allow the excess to drain completely and empty any saucer within 30 minutes — never leave the pot standing in water.
Why isn’t my anthurium flowering?
Insufficient light is the most common cause. Move the plant progressively closer to your brightest window. Ensure your fertiliser includes phosphorus through the growing season (higher phosphorus content encourages flowering). Confirm the pot is not excessively large for the plant — anthuriums are reluctant to flower when the growing medium holds far more moisture than the roots can use. A healthy anthurium in good light should produce new spathes regularly through spring and summer.
Are anthuriums toxic to cats, dogs, and children?
Yes, all parts of the anthurium plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which cause intense burning and swelling of the mouth, throat, and digestive tract if chewed or swallowed. Symptoms include drooling, pawing at the mouth, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. Keep all anthurium plants well out of reach of pets and young children. If ingestion is suspected, contact your veterinarian or a poison control centre immediately.
Can anthuriums be grown outdoors?
In tropical and subtropical climates where temperatures remain reliably above 15°C year-round (USDA hardiness zones 11–12), anthuriums can be grown outdoors as landscape plants in partial shade. In temperate climates — the UK, northern Europe, most of North America — they are strictly houseplants. In warm temperate summers, andraeanum hybrids can be moved outside to a sheltered, shaded patio once night temperatures are consistently above 15°C, but must be brought back indoors well before the first cold nights of autumn.
How do I raise humidity for my anthurium without a humidifier?
The most practical non-humidifier methods are: grouping your anthurium with other houseplants to create a shared microclimate with higher humidity from collective transpiration; placing the pot on a wide pebble tray filled with water (with the pot sitting above the waterline on the pebbles, never in the water); and growing the plant in a bathroom or kitchen that generates regular steam. These methods are less precise and consistent than a dedicated humidifier, but they provide a meaningful improvement over a dry living room.
What is the white crust on the soil surface of my anthurium?
White or pale-brown deposits on the growing medium surface or along the rim of the pot are almost always accumulated fertiliser salts or calcium and magnesium minerals from hard tap water. Flush the growing medium thoroughly with generous quantities of plain water — allow it to drain completely, then water heavily again, repeating three or four times. This leaches the accumulated minerals. Switch to filtered water or collected rainwater going forward to slow the rate of re-accumulation.
Why are my anthurium spathes turning green?
This is completely normal and is not a sign of any problem. Anthurium spathes change colour as they age: starting as vibrant red, pink, or white, they gradually fade to pale green before eventually dying back. Once a spathe has turned fully green and is no longer ornamental, cut the whole stem off at its base to keep the plant tidy and to allow the energy to be redirected into producing new growth and spathes.
How do I propagate my anthurium?
Division at repotting time is the simplest and most reliable method. When unpotting your anthurium, look for offsets — side shoots that have developed their own small root system alongside the main plant. Separate these cleanly with a sterile knife or scissors, pot each one individually in fresh aroid mix, and keep them in a warm, humid, bright position until they establish. Stem cuttings can also be taken from the main stem, ensuring each cutting includes at least one node and, ideally, an aerial root. Lay cuttings horizontally in moist sphagnum moss or propagation perlite and keep in warm, humid conditions until new roots and shoots develop.
Sources
- University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension. “Anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum).” Wisconsin Horticulture.
- Royal Horticultural Society. “Anthuriums: growing guide.” RHS.org.uk.
- Dufour, L. & Guérin, V. “Growth and development features of Anthurium in tropical conditions.” HortScience, American Society for Horticultural Science.
