Chrysanthemum Propagation: Spring Cuttings vs Division (Which Roots Faster and Blooms First)

Three Methods, One Goal: More Chrysanthemums for Free

A single chrysanthemum plant bought from a nursery in spring can become five, ten, or even twenty plants within a couple of seasons — without spending another cent. Chrysanthemums are among the easiest perennials to propagate at home, and understanding which method suits your situation is the difference between a few spare plants and a border full of them.

The three routes are stem cuttings (the most versatile method), division (the fastest), and seed (the most unpredictable). Each has a specific window, a specific use case, and a specific set of plants it works best for. This guide covers all three with the biological detail that explains why each technique works — not just the steps, but the science behind rooting success — plus the disease-prevention protocols that most propagation guides skip entirely.

Rose Saver

BioAdvanced All-in-One Rose & Flower Care Spray — 32 oz

★★★★☆ 1,200+ reviews

Treats black spot, powdery mildew, rust, and aphids in one application. Ready-to-spray formula needs no mixing — just point and spray. Essential during humid summers when fungal diseases explode overnight.

Check Price on AmazonPrime

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

We cover this in more depth in bleeding heart propagation.

If you want the full growing picture first, start with our chrysanthemum growing guide, which covers planting, pinching, feeding and overwintering in detail.

Which Propagation Method Suits Your Situation

Not every method works equally well for every type of chrysanthemum. Hardy border mums, exhibition varieties and species chrysanthemums each respond differently, and choosing the right approach saves time and avoids disappointment.

The key distinction most guides miss: cuttings and division both produce genetically identical clones of the parent plant, so the flower colour, form and hardiness will be exactly the same. Seed produces genetically unique offspring — which is exactly what plant breeders want, but not what you want if you are trying to replicate a favourite named variety.

Propagating Chrysanthemums from Cuttings

Cuttings are the method commercial growers rely on, and with good reason. According to the University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension, most chrysanthemums are commercially propagated from cuttings because the technique produces genetically identical plants with high success rates [4]. For home gardeners, cuttings are the best option when you want multiple copies of a specific variety — particularly exhibition, spray and cascade types that benefit from annual renewal.

Basal Cuttings vs Softwood Cuttings

There are two types of chrysanthemum cutting, and they come from different parts of the plant at different times of year:

• Basal cuttings are taken from new shoots that emerge at the base of overwintered stools (rootstocks) in late winter or early spring. These are 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of fresh, pale green growth cut cleanly just below a node. Exhibition growers use basal cuttings almost exclusively because the shoots are vigorous, disease-free (coming from the base rather than old stems) and produce the strongest plants.
• Softwood cuttings are taken from the tips of actively growing stems in late spring or early summer. These are 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) long and work well for multiplying hardy border varieties already growing in the garden. Iowa State University Extension recommends cutting the upper 3 to 4 inches with a sharp knife [2].

Both types root the same way, but basal cuttings tend to produce more vigorous plants because the shoot growth is brand new and full of stored energy from the rootstock.

Step-by-Step Cutting Method

1. Select healthy material. Choose shoots that are firm, green and free from any sign of disease. Take cuttings in the morning when stems hold the most water.
2. Make a clean cut. Use a sharp, sterilised knife or blade. Cut just below a leaf node — this is where the highest concentration of natural rooting hormones sits.
3. Remove lower leaves. Strip leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Penn State Extension recommends removing the lower half of the leaves from a 4-to-6-inch cutting [3]. Leave the top leaves intact — they power root development through photosynthesis.
4. Apply rooting hormone. Dip the base of the cutting (about 3/4 inch) into powdered or liquid rooting hormone [3]. This is optional but improves speed and uniformity. A 2022 study published in Plants found that IBA (indole-3-butyric acid) treatment significantly increased both root number and root length in chrysanthemum cuttings [5].
5. Insert into rooting medium. Push the cutting about 1 inch deep into moist, sterile rooting medium — coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite, or a 50:50 perlite-vermiculite mix all work well [2] [3]. Avoid garden soil, which holds too much moisture and harbours pathogens.
6. Create humidity. Cover with a clear plastic bag or propagator lid to maintain humidity around the leaves. Remove the cover for a few minutes daily to prevent mould.
7. Maintain temperature. Utah State University Extension recommends keeping cuttings at about 65°F (18°C) [1]. Avoid direct sun — bright indirect light is ideal.
8. Wait for roots. Roots typically develop in 4 to 5 weeks [2]. Test by giving the cutting a gentle tug — if you feel resistance, roots have formed.

Why Cuttings Root: The Auxin Mechanism

Understanding the biology helps you troubleshoot when things go wrong. When you cut a chrysanthemum stem, the wound triggers a two-phase hormonal response that drives adventitious root formation.

In the induction phase, auxin (primarily indole-3-acetic acid, or IAA) accumulates at the cut base. This elevated auxin concentration signals cells at the wound site to begin dividing and reorganising into root primordia — the microscopic clusters that will become roots. A 2022 study on Chrysanthemum indicum cuttings found that root and bud initiation appeared approximately two weeks after planting, with 100 percent rooting observed by week eight regardless of treatment [5].

In the formation phase, those cell clusters differentiate into actual root tissue. Interestingly, this phase is inhibited by very high auxin concentrations — which is why applying excessive rooting hormone can actually slow things down rather than speed them up. The same study identified that phenolic compounds produced at the cut site protect natural auxins from oxidation by inhibiting IAA oxidase enzymes [5]. In practical terms, this means a clean, sharp cut that minimises tissue damage preserves more of the plant’s own rooting chemistry.

This is also why leaves matter. The study confirmed that leafy cuttings outperformed non-leafy cuttings — the remaining leaves both photosynthesise (providing energy for root growth) and produce auxin that flows downward to the cut base. Stripping too many leaves removes both the energy source and the hormone supply.

Propagating Chrysanthemums by Division

Division is the simplest and fastest propagation method — and it doubles as essential maintenance. Hardy chrysanthemums spread rapidly through underground runners, and clumps that are not divided regularly become congested, with weaker flowering and increased disease susceptibility. Penn State Extension recommends dividing every three to five years [3], while Utah State Extension suggests every two years [1]. For most gardeners, dividing every two to three years keeps clumps vigorous.

We cover this in more depth in propagation stem cuttings division.

For a complete guide to the division technique across many different perennials, see our guide to dividing perennials.

When to Divide by USDA Zone

The rule is simple: divide in early spring when new basal shoots are 1 to 3 inches tall but before stems begin to elongate [3]. The exact timing depends on your zone:

Avoid fall division. Spring-divided chrysanthemums have the entire growing season to establish roots before winter, while fall-divided plants go into dormancy with an incomplete root system and suffer significantly higher winter losses.

Step-by-Step Division Method

1. Water the day before. Moist soil makes lifting easier and reduces root damage.
2. Lift the entire clump. Push a garden fork or spade under the root mass and lever upward. Shake or rinse off excess soil so you can see the root structure clearly.
3. Identify the divisions. You will see multiple small plants clustered around the original crown. The outer sections — with fresh, vigorous shoots and healthy white roots — are the ones you want. The woody central portion is the oldest and least productive part of the plant.
4. Separate with a sharp tool. Use a sharp knife or spade to cut divisions apart. Iowa State Extension recommends ensuring each section has several shoots and a portion of the root system [2].
5. Discard the centre. Replant only the vigorous outer divisions. Utah State Extension explicitly recommends discarding the original plant and keeping only the fresh outer sections [1].
6. Replant immediately. Set divisions at the same depth they were growing, in freshly prepared soil amended with compost. Space 18–24 inches apart to allow for spread. Water in thoroughly.

Growing Chrysanthemums from Seed

Seed propagation is the least common method for home gardeners, and for a specific reason: most named chrysanthemum varieties are complex hybrids, and hybrid seed does not come true. The offspring will vary in flower form, colour, height and hardiness — sometimes dramatically. You might plant seed from a perfect double bronze mum and get single-flowered plants in pink, white and yellow.

If you are growing this for the first time, start with hepatica propagation: division and growing.

That said, seed has two legitimate uses. First, it is the standard method for growing species chrysanthemums such as Chrysanthemum coronarium (garland chrysanthemum, also grown as an edible green) and C. carinatum (painted daisy). These come reasonably true from seed. Second, seed is how new varieties are bred — if you hand-pollinate two parent plants, every seedling is a unique genetic combination with the potential to become a new cultivar worth naming.

How to Start Chrysanthemum Seeds

1. Timing. Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last expected frost date. Penn State Extension recommends maintaining a soil temperature of 70–75°F (21–24°C) for germination [3].
2. Sowing. Use a sterile seed-starting mix in cell trays or shallow containers. Sow seeds on the surface and press them gently into the mix. Cover with a very thin layer of vermiculite or fine compost — chrysanthemum seeds need some light to germinate.
3. Germination. Keep the medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Seeds typically germinate in 1 to 3 weeks [3]. Bottom heat from a seedling heat mat speeds the process considerably.
4. Thin and pot on. When seedlings develop their first true leaves (beyond the initial seed leaves), thin to the strongest seedling per cell or pot on into individual 3-inch pots.
5. Harden off and plant out. After all frost danger has passed, gradually acclimatise seedlings to outdoor conditions over 7 to 10 days before planting into their final positions.

Seed-propagated chrysanthemums typically bloom 3 to 4 months after germination, meaning an indoor start in late winter produces flowering plants by late summer or early autumn — right in time for the chrysanthemum season.

Keeping Propagation Material Healthy

This is the section most propagation guides leave out entirely, and it matters more than technique. A perfectly executed cutting taken from a diseased mother plant will produce a diseased new plant. Chrysanthemum white rust (Puccinia horiana) and chrysanthemum eelworm are both transmitted through infected propagation material, and both can devastate a collection.

The Hot Water Treatment

Before taking basal cuttings from overwintered stools, you can treat dormant rootstocks with a hot water soak that kills both white rust and eelworm without harming the plant [6]. The protocol is precise:

1. Remove all remaining foliage from the stool.
2. Trim roots to about 6 inches (15 cm).
3. Submerge the stool in water held at exactly 115°F (46°C) for five minutes.
4. Immediately plunge into cold water to cool.
5. Allow to air-dry before potting up.

Temperature accuracy is critical. Too low and the treatment fails to kill the pathogen. Too high and you damage or kill the plant. Use a reliable kitchen or brewing thermometer and monitor throughout — the water temperature must stay at 115°F (46°C) for the full five minutes [6].

General Propagation Hygiene

• Never take cuttings from plants showing any disease symptoms. The RHS specifically warns against taking cuttings from white rust-affected plants, as the pathogen can transfer invisibly in apparently healthy tissue [6].
• Quarantine new material. Keep bought-in plants or cuttings separate from existing stock for several weeks to allow latent infections to show symptoms before they spread to your established collection [6].
• Use clean equipment. Sterilise knives and secateurs between plants with rubbing alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution.
• Use fresh, sterile growing medium. Clemson University HGIC recommends always using new soilless mix and clean containers for propagation [7]. Soil in which diseased plants grew should be heat-pasteurised before reuse.

First-Season Care for New Plants

Whether your new chrysanthemums came from cuttings, division or seed, the first growing season determines their long-term success.

Related: tea plant propagation: growing.

• Water consistently. New plants lack the established root system needed to find moisture on their own. Water whenever the top inch of soil dries out, especially during the first 6 weeks after transplanting.
• Pinch for bushiness. When stems reach 6 to 8 inches tall, remove the top 2 inches of growth to encourage branching. This produces more flowers on a shorter, sturdier plant. For full pinching guidance, see the Chelsea Chop section of our chrysanthemum growing guide. Stop pinching by early July so plants have time to set buds before autumn.
• Feed lightly. A balanced liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the growing season supports strong establishment. Switch to a high-potassium feed (tomato fertiliser works well) once flower buds begin forming.
• Space adequately. Nebraska Extension recommends 15 to 24 inches between plants [4]. Good air circulation reduces the risk of fungal problems — particularly grey mould and white rust — that thrive in dense, humid conditions.

Garden Essential

Chapin 1-Gallon Pump Sprayer

★★★★☆ 99,000+ reviews

The best-reviewed garden sprayer on Amazon — period. Adjustable nozzle goes from fine mist to direct stream. Essential for applying neem oil, liquid fertilizer, or any foliar treatment evenly.

Check Price on AmazonPrime

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I take chrysanthemum cuttings in autumn?

Autumn cuttings are possible but less reliable. The short days trigger flowering rather than vegetative root growth, and autumn-rooted cuttings face a full winter before they can establish properly. Spring and early summer cuttings, taken during the plant’s active vegetative growth phase, root faster and produce stronger plants.

Do I need rooting hormone for chrysanthemum cuttings?

Chrysanthemum cuttings will root without hormone — the 2022 study on C. indicum achieved 100 percent rooting even in untreated controls by week eight [5]. However, rooting hormone speeds the process and produces more uniform results. It is most helpful when you are taking large numbers of cuttings or working with varieties that root slowly.

Why did my chrysanthemum seeds produce different-coloured flowers?

Most named chrysanthemum varieties are complex hybrids. Their seeds carry a mix of genetic material from multiple parent lines, so seedlings will not look identical to the parent plant. This is normal and unavoidable with hybrid seed. If you want exact copies, use cuttings or division instead.

How many divisions can I get from one plant?

A well-established two- to three-year-old clump typically yields 3 to 5 strong divisions from the outer edges. Very large clumps can produce more, but prioritise quality over quantity — each division needs several healthy shoots and a good portion of root to establish quickly.

Can I root chrysanthemum cuttings in water?

Chrysanthemums can produce roots in water, but the roots that form in water are structurally different from soil roots and often struggle when transplanted. Cuttings rooted in a solid medium such as perlite, sand or vermiculite produce stronger, more fibrous root systems that transplant more successfully.

Sources

1. Utah State University Extension. Growing Chrysanthemums in the Home Garden
2. Iowa State University Extension. How Can I Propagate Garden Mums?
3. Penn State Extension. Chrysanthemum Care
4. University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension. Garden Chrysanthemums
5. Park, Y.G. et al. Biochemical and Physiological Changes during Early Adventitious Root Formation in Chrysanthemum indicum Linne Cuttings. Plants, 2022
6. RHS. Chrysanthemum White Rust: Causes and Control
7. Clemson University HGIC. Chrysanthemum Diseases and Insect Pests